Quote:
Originally Posted by rjd_F30
navardi Couple things to add after doing more research. Looks like the MHI turbo uses the stock turbine size so I'll probably have to go with pure stage 2 or something similar to get a bigger compressor and turbine.
Also: I talked to Cary Jordan and he's saying that the stock sleeves will be fine at 400whp. Would be a nice way to save some cash if that's the case, as sleeves will certainly be a ton of labor, and the parts aren't chump change either. What are your thoughts on NOT doing sleeves and leaving the block as is? Other than that, he pretty much recommended all the stuff that you did, plus potentially looking at an upgraded radiator.
|
Hey mate I'll answer a few of your questions,
Main studs are the bolts/studs that hold the crankshaft in, headstuds hold the cylinder head down. Two separate ends of the motor.
Cut ring head gasket can be found on a few websites but vac Motorsports sells it.
Sleeving isn't necessary for your power option but since you have to hone the block for new pistons to be installed, you remove the Factory plasma arc coating this coating is cheaper to have applied than installing sleeves from a factory perspective. The main reason why a plasma arc coating or sleeves are used is because the block is aluminium and you can't run piston rings in a aluminium bore it won't seal properly, it will also wear prematurely etc. In the aftermarket scene you will find it hard to find someone to do plasma arc coating and if you can it most likely will be more expensive than installing sleeves hence why I recommend sleeves. Another reason why I recommend sleeves it's due to the fact it strengthens the cylinders up meaning they won't wobble under high cylinder pressures causing the headgasket to fail i.e running high boost. Closed decking is abit overkill for your build requirements, usually if you run sleeves you don't need the deck closed up but running both is still better than not running both.
As for turbos you did correct yourself but I think alot of people misinterpret the MHI turbo... It's a stage 1 turbo with a new exhaust housing and wastegate etc. Stage 2 turbos there aren't alot of them around currently and the ones that are... They're almost as expensive as a garret GTX turbo etc. Hence why I built my own stage 2 turbo. I have heard Mossleman is making a stage 2 turbo and so is Vargus Turbo tech but I don't know when that will happen. Mamba turbo sell a stage 1.5 ish turbo it runs a stage 1 compressor wheel but runs a stage 2 turbine wheel, it's heaps cheaper than all the other options on the market and if you wanted to you could upgrade the compressor wheel to match a stage 2 for $300 more, just buy the compressor wheel (the one I linked on the first page of this thread) and get a turbo shop to fit it and machine the compressor housing.
For your power goals yes the hpfp will be fine.
LPFP upgrade is going to be required for the larger turbo, and Cary Jordan is a great tuner he's doing my stage 3 tune and has been showing really good customer service skills and good results the tune isn't polished yet but I can see he's very competent with tuning the n20 especially built motors.