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I did a 6 mile drive from stone cold to stir things up then went about jacking and removing stuff. I found access to the fill plug next to impossible without removing the bracket securing the transmission to the frame. The transmission was barely warmer than ambient when I decided to check fluid level. The scan tool would have been handy to read temp before opening fill plug. Started the car and ran through the sequence I mentioned, removed fill plug and insert temp probe. I lucked out and was around 38C. I was getting a weak drip which didn't change much when it hit 40C. Satisfied that I could get the correct level reading I put the fill plug back in.
Turn the car off and start to crack open the drain plug in the pan. You need a decent size pan as the fluid squirts out around the plug. I chose to loosen it but not remove it until most of the fluid drained. I measured the amount of fluid that came out, which in my case was ~5.3qts. Since the fluid level is above the fill plug when the car is not running I used an adapter (M18x1.5 to barb) and filled through a clean hose/funnel. I put back in the same amount I took out. When you start the car it will suck the level down to below the fill plug allowing removal of the adapter and hose.
There is a condensate drain almost directly above the fill hole which will drip since the A/C is running. I stuffed an old t-shirt up there to soak up the moisture. I initially confused this drip with a drip from the fill hole.
When installing the new oil pan there is a torque sequence (attached) to follow as well as the 10nm tightening spec.
Ensure you check the torque on the new drain plug before filling.
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