Quote:
Originally Posted by ScarecrowBoat
Who said I was worried about blowing my motor? I just said I don't want to lose my warranty because of a mod.
No other modifications. 93 octane gas. Just gave it gas and BOOM reduced power and warnings like crazy. "Drivetrain Failure" and "Chasis Stabilization Failure". Terry @ BMS told me to buy the BT cable and check codes to see what happened, which @ $300 I'm not exactly interested in. The only reason I needed it was because of his product. Now I feel stuck because I don't want to take it to the dealer because I'm concerned they will see I tuned it and void my warranty. He basically told me to take a hike and that the tune had nothing to do with the error. I am partial to believing that but his complete lack of interest in figuring out what it may be led me to return the product. I don't think I'm really going to be interested in BMS stuff anymore.
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Think about the sensors that BMS is using, MAP (manifold pressure, detects vacuum or boost before it hits the combustion chamber) as well as the MAF (how much air flows past it) and then they are sending fake values to the ECU to make it adjust the wastegate solenoid more aggressively. Every aftermarket piggyback is going to be similar to this and I would imagine that like most ECU's, this one has a limit to what it is supposed to see and the car is throwing codes to protect itself from a bad solenoid or other sensor that could allow the car to overboost and blow the engine.
While I don't think BMS is unique to this possible problem, I am convinced that this style of ECU manipulation causes problems similar to yours. Perhaps your car was 3% better than the car on their dyno, that would be another 7hp and hp demands fuel.
That said, I want some type of tune for the car if for no other reason than to get rid of the lag/dead pedal space in non-sport mode and have some power for the street and I have read that BMS does so I will probably go that route soon if nobody makes something that gets to the 350hp area although that will probably involve a different turbo. I've talked to nearly every manufacturer out there and I would have to remove the tune every time I went to the track though because they (and probably the car in stock form) are not really engineered for running 20 minutes at a time.