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      08-09-2012, 02:27 AM   #1
rallybull
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Question Upgrading subwoofer in F30 Base Audio

Any ideas how to add some good thump to the base audio system (US) in the F30?

Also does the stock system come with any frequency crossover system to pass just the lower frequencies to the two 8" subs (located below the seats) and the rest of the frequencies to the other speakers?
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      08-12-2012, 09:41 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tojo_m View Post
Any ideas how to add some good thump to the base audio system (US) in the F30? Add an amp and a sub. you would need a high level to low level converter to drive the audio for the amp.

Also does the stock system come with any frequency crossover system to pass just the lower frequencies to the two 8" subs (located below the seats) and the rest of the frequencies to the other speakers? The factory systems, both the base and the HK are crossed over.
What are you thinking about doing?
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      08-14-2012, 10:18 AM   #3
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At the minimum upgrade sub. This might mean removing existing subs. Also would like to prevent very low bass freq (<100Hz) reaching other speakers. If quality would not have improved substantially then also upgrade the other speakers.
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      08-22-2012, 03:50 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tojo_m View Post
Any ideas how to add some good thump to the base audio system (US) in the F30?

Also does the stock system come with any frequency crossover system to pass just the lower frequencies to the two 8" subs (located below the seats) and the rest of the frequencies to the other speakers?
I'm pretty sure they're crossed over from the factory. It seems logical for a system with dedicated subs and tweeters to not have the wrong frequencies going to either, I'd think having those low signals going to the tweeters would blow them pretty fast and lower the overall quality of the system at worst. (but i havent really looked into it to be honest)
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      08-22-2012, 04:08 PM   #5
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I'm still hoping someone uploads the wiring schematic used for the stock US hifi system... i just want to know what wires are (R- R+ and L- L+) for the sub outputs from the amp... that way i can tap a RCA line out converter or use high level inputs to add my own aftermarket amp and small sub... then just back down the bass for the stock speakers and have the real sub handling the low end load.. anyone have access to this by chance yet ?
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      08-23-2012, 01:23 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NateDog07V View Post
I'm still hoping someone uploads the wiring schematic used for the stock US hifi system... i just want to know what wires are (R- R+ and L- L+) for the sub outputs from the amp... that way i can tap a RCA line out converter or use high level inputs to add my own aftermarket amp and small sub... then just back down the bass for the stock speakers and have the real sub handling the low end load.. anyone have access to this by chance yet ?
Crutchfield.com usually is a good source for all this info, but seems they dont have it yet. Sorry
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      08-23-2012, 08:11 PM   #7
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Could someone suggest some good subwoofers and amps in the $400-$1000 range?

I have a good idea of home audio brands but have no idea of the auto audio market. I have an SVS PB-12 Plus at home and very happy with it. Was hoping to have some thing at that quality level in the car too (though unlike the PB-12, the lower -3db could be 25Hz in the case of the car sub, since I don't listen to music that contains notes below that frequency). Accuracy and Output would be the primary criteria (not extension).

I know a good sub has to be big and heavy (in general), but I would prefer to keep the weight down as far as possible.

And where do you think would be the best location for the sub in the F30?
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      08-24-2012, 11:00 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tojo_m View Post
Could someone suggest some good subwoofers and amps in the $400-$1000 range?

I have a good idea of home audio brands but have no idea of the auto audio market. I have an SVS PB-12 Plus at home and very happy with it. Was hoping to have some thing at that quality level in the car too (though unlike the PB-12, the lower -3db could be 25Hz in the case of the car sub, since I don't listen to music that contains notes below that frequency). Accuracy and Output would be the primary criteria (not extension).

I know a good sub has to be big and heavy (in general), but I would prefer to keep the weight down as far as possible.

And where do you think would be the best location for the sub in the F30?
Check these out: http://www.jlaudio.com/car-audio-subwoofer-drivers-w1v2

JL makes some great stuff. Usually, you'd want to mount them in the trunk if you were really going serious but depending on your needs, you could potentially mount these low profile versions under the seats and that may give you what you're looking for. Usually, the best bet is to go custom, but there are also tons of 'custom' enclosures for each type of car, normally fitting in the trunk for cars. It's the ideal solution for sound and ease of mounting but you do lose a bit of trunk space if that's a concern.
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      08-24-2012, 10:29 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tdizzle View Post
Check these out: http://www.jlaudio.com/car-audio-subwoofer-drivers-w1v2

JL makes some great stuff. Usually, you'd want to mount them in the trunk if you were really going serious but depending on your needs, you could potentially mount these low profile versions under the seats and that may give you what you're looking for. Usually, the best bet is to go custom, but there are also tons of 'custom' enclosures for each type of car, normally fitting in the trunk for cars. It's the ideal solution for sound and ease of mounting but you do lose a bit of trunk space if that's a concern.
Yes JL of course
I don't mind sacrificing trunk space.

This is what I have in mind:
1) Swap out the amplifier with a better amp.
2) Swap out the OEM under seat 8" woofers with better quality shallow mount subs, dedicated to just mid bass (from 150Hz to 60Hz)
3) Install a dedicated true sub-woofer in the trunk, that will handle low bass (25Hz-60Hz)
4) Would also like the sound to be flattened out using some kind of parametric equalization.
5) I might also upgrade the mid range and the tweeters, but that's lower priority.

Yes, I know that all this will run much more that my initial $1000 budget.

Problem is that I don't want any wires cut and the installation should be reversible to original OEM setup if needed. I know it is possible. Problem is that I don't know of any reputed/capable audio store in Phoenix that can do all this.
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      08-27-2012, 05:42 PM   #10
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tojo_m - have you taken a look at the Fosgate 3SIXTY.3? I know the inclusion of one will blow your initial budget, but that's the route that I'm probably going to go.

There is a great shop up in Prescott called Audio Plus. It's definitely a drive, but could be quite worthwhile. They're one of the only Paradigm suppliers in the state, so that's how I got to know them. Anyway, their prices were reasonable and the staff is certainly willing to work with you. Give them a call and ask for Brent; he's a great guy and very helpful. They are an authorized Fosgate dealer. I'll probably be going to them for the aftermarket gear for my MSport when it arrives.

Be sure to let us know about whatever experience you have.
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      08-28-2012, 12:35 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tojo_m View Post
Yes JL of course
I don't mind sacrificing trunk space.

This is what I have in mind:
1) Swap out the amplifier with a better amp.
2) Swap out the OEM under seat 8" woofers with better quality shallow mount subs, dedicated to just mid bass (from 150Hz to 60Hz)
3) Install a dedicated true sub-woofer in the trunk, that will handle low bass (25Hz-60Hz)
4) Would also like the sound to be flattened out using some kind of parametric equalization.
5) I might also upgrade the mid range and the tweeters, but that's lower priority.

Yes, I know that all this will run much more that my initial $1000 budget.

Problem is that I don't want any wires cut and the installation should be reversible to original OEM setup if needed. I know it is possible. Problem is that I don't know of any reputed/capable audio store in Phoenix that can do all this.
You should be able to do what you want yourself and save some money if you're electronically inclined. It should be basically plug and play minus any extra amps you'll need (you'll have to run a new power supply or tap into an existing one). I used to do that sort of thing in all my cars, the head unit and planning where to hide the wires were the hardest parts, but I was always easily able to return it to factory with little effort. For your install you wont even have to pop open the doors and worry about scratching or misalignment issues.

All that said, if you're not into doing that yourself, I'd really be careful where you take it, make sure you can get a look at some of their installs and ensure they're of quality work. (what you want isn't difficult for a half decent shop but you want to make sure they take care not to beat up your car in the process)
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      09-02-2012, 05:32 PM   #12
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any luck upgrading the subs?
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      09-02-2012, 06:24 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tojo_m View Post
Any ideas how to add some good thump to the base audio system (US) in the F30?

Also does the stock system come with any frequency crossover system to pass just the lower frequencies to the two 8" subs (located below the seats) and the rest of the frequencies to the other speakers?
There are lots of options and ways to do what you want.

How experience are you with installing car audio?
Do you plan to do the install yourself, or pay to get it done?

Earthquake shallow mount subs are pretty good subs. I installed a pair in my 135i, just the subs nothing else. They improved the bass quality nicely. There was greater depth and cleaner output.

Maybe you should try just replacing the stock subs, replace the stock mids and tweets, add a 4 channel amp to drive all of it, and listen to how it sounds. It may give you all the bass you want, and you won't have to get another amp and sub in the trunk.

If I were doing it, I would get new front component mids/tweets, Earthquake subs, and amp.
Use the existing rear drivers and OEM amp, and add in the rear when you have passengers in the back.
By using just the front drivers with after market drivers and amp, it will give you a very nice sound stage, no reason to spend money on the rear drivers.
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      09-02-2012, 08:36 PM   #14
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I'm going with an aftermarket sub/amp to add to the stock hifi system... just picked up my car on saturday and the stock 8's don't handle the entire bass spectrum very well... some songs they sound great, others they tend to sound overworked, and i have the bass level smack in the center of the settings... I just ordered a 12" Alpine Type R, Alpine MRP-M500 mono amp, 0.95 cubic foot box, and 8 gauge amp install kit. Only thing i need to figure out is what wires to tap into after the stock amp.. i've done plenty of installs before, just need a wiring schematic
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      09-03-2012, 09:51 AM   #15
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What are the chances the schematic linked to below is the same on the f30 HiFi system??
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=138949
I'll try and take a look at mine later today... but i'm hoping it's the same colored wires to the same drivers
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      09-03-2012, 05:50 PM   #16
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Many peps just drop in new subs under the seats..
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      09-04-2012, 01:57 AM   #17
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I am actually finding the basic hifi system quite a lot better than I had expected (I really did not expect much anyway). I ran a few test tones ranging from 5Hz to 80Hz today and was surprised that I could actually feel the system at even 16Hz. At 25Hz the system was quite loud. I did not use any db meter, but just based on casual listening I won't be surprised if the system is doing a 30Hz +/- 3db.

However, I wish it would automatically pump up the bass at lower volumes (something similar to what Audessy Dynamic volume does). The sound overall seemed very bright. I also found it a bit difficult to get the right imaging for the drivers seat given the basic setup, but hey I think I can now live with the system for a few months before I do any upgrades.
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      09-12-2012, 10:42 PM   #18
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OK, so here's what i've figured out thus far... if history proves to be right, then the thicker gauge wires from the stock amp in a twisted pair will be going to the subs under the front seat (see photo below)

That means Blue/red + Blue/brown and Black/red +Black/brown are going to the subs and next to those there is also a thick Red with white stripe (I'm assuming this is positive Power and the Brown is negative)
Also, if you look closely with those same wires, there is a very thin black wire... is this a remote turn on for the stock amp??
The bigger question is which wires are positive/negative and which side is right and left?
Here's a shot of the harness as well:
http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m...t/IMG_1335.jpg

And if you yank back the carpet, here's all the wiring heading to the front of the car down the drivers side:
http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m...t/IMG_1339.jpg
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      09-14-2012, 05:18 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NateDog07V View Post
OK, so here's what i've figured out thus far... if history proves to be right, then the thicker gauge wires from the stock amp in a twisted pair will be going to the subs under the front seat (see photo below)

That means Blue/red + Blue/brown and Black/red +Black/brown are going to the subs and next to those there is also a thick Red with white stripe (I'm assuming this is positive Power and the Brown is negative)
Also, if you look closely with those same wires, there is a very thin black wire... is this a remote turn on for the stock amp??
The bigger question is which wires are positive/negative and which side is right and left?
Here's a shot of the harness as well:
http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m...t/IMG_1335.jpg


And if you yank back the carpet, here's all the wiring heading to the front of the car down the drivers side:
http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m...t/IMG_1339.jpg
Your guess that the thicker wires are for the subs is a logical conclusion.
Take the passenger seat out, it's easy. Then, open up the stock sub box and take a look at the wires. If they are the same color as the ones in the back, you're in business.
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      09-17-2012, 03:48 PM   #20
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My other logical conclusion is that the speaker wires with a Red stripe are positive and the ones with the brown stripe are negative (based on previous 3 series schematics i've seen). Also, it really doesn't matter which channel is left and which is right since this is for a single sub and all we need is the full signal (both left and right). The only real question i have at this point is if i should wire up the remote turn on to the thick Red wire with the white stripe or to the tiny black wire.... on the e90, folks were using the Red w/ white stripe with no problems, but i don't think they had the tiny black wire
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      09-24-2012, 12:13 PM   #21
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I found Alpine HIFI system from accessories catalogue. Maybe it is something for upgrading base audio? From catalogue
Quote:
ALPINE HiFi system
For a significant increase in audio performance and a natural, homogeneous auditory experience. The new, six-channel DSP amplifer has output of 420W, a class D chip ensures powerful bass and class A/B chips deliver flawless high tones and expressive mid tones. Time correction and equalising that accounts for the car's parameters further enhance the pleasure. The ALPINE HiFi system also includes modified mid-range speakers and a pair of powerful tweeters for installation in the upper sections of the front doors. Like the powerful bass speakers under the front seats and the two rear speakers, their high-quality is controlled by two channels.
PDF verion of this catalogue can be found here and Alpine HiFi is on page 20/21.
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      10-01-2012, 12:36 AM   #22
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Any news on this? I would also like to upgrade subs and speakers.
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