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      09-20-2012, 08:42 AM   #1
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How to break in a new MT F30

I have been hearing mixed reviews. When you get a brand new BMW (the new 335i in my case) with a manual transmission, at what mileage can you start breaking in hard? I've been hearing that you have to do it as soon as you drive it and few people have been telling me you shouldn't redline or press it hard until a certain number of miles are driven. Any advice? Thanks guys...
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      09-20-2012, 08:49 AM   #2
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There are two schools:

1.) Softly softly (people reckon manufacturers suggest this approach, but not many actually do)

2.) http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm


I always use method 2.....lots of strong engines with little oil usage.
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      09-20-2012, 09:13 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NISFAN View Post
There are two schools:

1.) Softly softly (people reckon manufacturers suggest this approach, but not many actually do)

2.) http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm


I always use method 2.....lots of strong engines with little oil usage.
Any experts on this? The manual says approx. 1250 miles before revving beyond 4000 rpms and exceeding speeds above 100 mph, but Iīve heard about this instant-flat-out-non-gentle-run-in before. Somehow it makes sense but, I donīt know..
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      09-20-2012, 09:29 AM   #4
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I'm very confused as well. I should receive mine within the next month and want to know the proper way before driving it...
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      09-20-2012, 10:32 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DK335iM View Post
I'm very confused as well. I should receive mine within the next month and want to know the proper way before driving it...
I followed the BMW manual recommendations. I'm not an expert. Pretty simple.

Lots of debate out there for the "proper" way. I don't believe there is one way to break in an engine. What is the best method is a matter of opinion.

Unless you know more than the BMW engineers, I would follow their recommendations instead of various internet claims.
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      09-20-2012, 02:19 PM   #6
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Warranty. Just drive the car and enjoy it, rather it has 1 mile or 100,000 miles.
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      09-20-2012, 04:23 PM   #7
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By all means, I will definitely enjoy it. It's just I like to keep it in top condition if I can. If doing it in a certain way will help my car in the long run, I will take that route. Just been getting mixed claims.
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      09-22-2012, 02:15 PM   #8
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I am an advocate of the 'ring seal' run in. But I used to race bikes so could see the benefits.

The soft break in method is a little old fashioned, stems back to older machining techniques that left rough surfaces that required 'bedding in'. There were surfaces that potentially broke through the oil film and caused metal on metal contact.

Todays modern engines are machined to a much finer tolerance, and have both improved oil contol and oil technology. So the old 'bedding in' process is no longer important.

For most manufacturers new engines are run on an engine dyno and then again in the finished car on a wheel dyno.

They test for power on these tests, as it is the best engine 'quality check'. So in truth that engine you are babying started life running at full power within a few minutes.

So why the manufacturers running in guide?

A new car is not just a new engine. Brake components need bedding in, tyres need the release agent scrubbed, clutch discs need bedding, etc so it is common sense to drive well within the limits of the car until these systems reach optimal performance. This if done correctly only takes 50 miles max.

It is not difficult to imagine why a car manufacturer might recommend a running in regime. Theses reasons have little to do with mechanical sympathy.

At the end of the day, it is your car, and whatever method sits well with you is the best method
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      09-22-2012, 05:07 PM   #9
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There is nothing wrong with the user manual

I used to break in new racebikes. The chief engineer instructed me to be gentle until normal operating temp was reached. Then increase rpm 500 rounds every few minutes while accelerating and increase the throttle as well. If all goes fine, accelerate a few times at max power.
Meanwhile, do the same with tires, brakes etc.: increase the load after normal op temp reached.
Then let it cool to normal temp while cruising, stop and let it cool completely: done.
These engines never blew nor extra oil or fuel.
The whole procedure takes 100 kms.

I think it takes a normal driver more miles to get used to the car, get eveything through it cycle etc. If you break in on purpose, less miles will suffice.
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      09-22-2012, 07:58 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jpa74 View Post

I don't believe there is one way to break in an engine. What is the best method is a matter of opinion.
Yes, there is a certain way to "break in" a new engine.
It's based on engine building.
For most intents and purposes an engine is "broken in" when it is first started.

When we get our cars we're not breaking in the engine, we're breaking in the whole car and all it's associated moving parts.
Whether you believe, accept or not the science behind it, is really a matter of one's opinion and beliefs. That's different than not believing there IS method behind the madness.
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      09-25-2012, 04:37 PM   #11
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Yeah that was what I was thinking also. Aside from the main Engine component, I agree with breaking in for the new tires, brakes etc. I dont want to push it and end up skidding off the road haha.
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      10-02-2012, 02:20 PM   #12
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Funny, when I bed brakes, 80mph to 15 full force about 6x...it's loads of fun.
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      10-02-2012, 02:38 PM   #13
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I'd like to see some empirical evidence about failure/repair rates of dealer inventory cars that are test-driven before sale vs. those that have only transport miles (i.e. > 10 at sale). That would tell us a lot about whether its possible to "do it wrong" because lord knows, I've never been kind to cars I've test-driven.

On my SRT8 that I bought, it has a peak hold for lateral acceleration in G's...... it showed .94G's to the left and .73G's to the right when I bought it. Someone enjoyed it before I did.
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      10-02-2012, 03:00 PM   #14
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Part of me believes that manufacturers only recommend gentle break-in as a precautionary step for assembly errors/component defects. If there is a bad component in the car, which will likely rear it's head early on) there is a lot more chance of damage to the car (or driver) if some sort of failure occurs at 6500 rpm and 125 mph. Or did I just forget to take my tin-foil hat off again?
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      10-10-2012, 06:59 PM   #15
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Now that I have the car, not sure how I wanna break it in. Easy or hard.... Salesman told me not to worry and just drive it.
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      10-10-2012, 08:53 PM   #16
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I took it easy for the first 1200 miles, but did try to vary the rpms which I think is important. I used this method on my last BMW and got 10 years of faithful service out of that car. And I got the oil changed at 1200 miles too (and did techtron fuel injector cleaner at 600 and 1200 miles to boot). Car is running very nicely now and will take off in sport+ when I ask it too. I will change the oil / do techtron at 3k as well, then every 3-5k thereafter. Also only run 93 octane gas. And yes, I bought the car, if it was leased I would probably not bother with 1/2 of what i am doing.
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      10-10-2012, 09:00 PM   #17
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Yes, we bought it too so now im having second thoughts on beating on it. should have leased it. Haha
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      10-12-2012, 12:41 AM   #18
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Well thats out the window. Going with the hard break in. Wish me luck!
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      10-21-2012, 11:10 PM   #19
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breaking in a bmw lease is fun cause you're returning the car, but buying and breaking in the car is a pain cause you have to baby the car if you're planning on keeping it for a long time.
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      10-22-2012, 01:12 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joshhleee View Post
breaking in a bmw lease is fun cause you're returning the car, but buying and breaking in the car is a pain cause you have to baby the car if you're planning on keeping it for a long time.
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      10-22-2012, 01:14 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ocso1606 View Post
Well thats out the window. Going with the hard break in. Wish me luck!

I don't see ANY reason to treat a leased car any differently than a loan purchased car.
Must be mental thing with some folks.

I never abuse cars on test drives, and I drive rentals and loaners the same way as I drive my cars, with respect to it's mechanicals.
I never understood why people would abuse a car that is not theirs, other than they do it simply because it's not theirs, and they don't have respect for other peoples property.
I don't take advice from that mind set.

Leasing or loan purchase makes NO difference towards actual break in.
For the record, I don't do soft, gentle, or slow break in.
I consider the BMW manual method to be a slow and gentle break in.

The only thing I don't do for at least the first 1000 miles is no standing WFO throttle starts red lining gears through a 1/4 mile run.
My engines see red line well before 1000 miles, but the engine gets there in a controlled steady manner using light to moderate throttle.
I use and hold each gear steadily to red line and then let the throttle off letting engine braking bring the rpm back down to around 1000rpm, then the next gear, so on, until I can't use the higher gears to red as speed would be too high.

The idea is to let normal engine braking and vacuum full set the piston rings so that compression remains good for life with minimal blow by of oil into the combustion chamber or fuel into the oil.

No need for slow and gentle break in, IMO and experience.
YMMV.
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      10-25-2012, 08:26 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RPM90 View Post
I don't see ANY reason to treat a leased car any differently than a loan purchased car.
Must be mental thing with some folks.

I never abuse cars on test drives, and I drive rentals and loaners the same way as I drive my cars, with respect to it's mechanicals.
I never understood why people would abuse a car that is not theirs, other than they do it simply because it's not theirs, and they don't have respect for other peoples property.
I don't take advice from that mind set.

Leasing or loan purchase makes NO difference towards actual break in.
For the record, I don't do soft, gentle, or slow break in.
I consider the BMW manual method to be a slow and gentle break in.

The only thing I don't do for at least the first 1000 miles is no standing WFO throttle starts red lining gears through a 1/4 mile run.
My engines see red line well before 1000 miles, but the engine gets there in a controlled steady manner using light to moderate throttle.
I use and hold each gear steadily to red line and then let the throttle off letting engine braking bring the rpm back down to around 1000rpm, then the next gear, so on, until I can't use the higher gears to red as speed would be too high.

The idea is to let normal engine braking and vacuum full set the piston rings so that compression remains good for life with minimal blow by of oil into the combustion chamber or fuel into the oil.

No need for slow and gentle break in, IMO and experience.
YMMV.


This is my 9th BMW and my 7th new one.

The first 500kms I didn't go beyond 4000rpm. After 500kms it already saw 200kmh(125mph) And at 1500kms(1000miles or so) I did my first flatout at 260kmh limited on tacho/160mph...Not for a minute or so, just touching and going back to a steady 130mph LOL.

Cheers
Robin
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