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BMW 3-Series and 4-Series Forum (F30 / F32) | F30POST > Technical Forums > Mechanical Maintenance and TSBs: Break-in / Oil & Fluids / Servicing / TSBs and Service Bulletin > Is break in necessary?
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      09-24-2012, 04:03 AM   #1
TF30Z
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Is break in necessary?

I'm about to take delivery this weekend and was wondering whether the "break-in" is still necessary for the F30? It is a 320d sport line.

Can I just drive normally? (Although I am quite an aggressive driver I must say).

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      09-24-2012, 04:47 AM   #2
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Ya break in still applies.
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      09-24-2012, 07:32 AM   #3
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This has been discussed many times and you'll get all sorts of responses.

My own view is that the BMW manual tells you to break the car in so there must be a reason for it, although I admit I haven't seen what it specifically says for the 320D.

It's your decision though of course.
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      09-24-2012, 07:55 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TonyS View Post
This has been discussed many times and you'll get all sorts of responses.

My own view is that the BMW manual tells you to break the car in so there must be a reason for it, although I admit I haven't seen what it specifically says for the 320D.

It's your decision though of course.

But yes, it's your choice.
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      09-24-2012, 07:57 AM   #5
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When I picked up my 320d M Sport I was told there was no need to have a break in period and to just drive the car how I wanted.

I must admit though I've still been a bit cautious with it though just in case.
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      09-24-2012, 07:59 AM   #6
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Especially the brakes, I would pay special attention on not to brake hard for the first 400-500 kms or so.
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      09-24-2012, 08:20 AM   #7
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Well its in the manual so i'm just guessing it would be necessary tbh
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      09-24-2012, 10:44 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rjberry View Post
When I picked up my 320d M Sport I was told there was no need to have a break in period and to just drive the car how I wanted.
Who told you this, the well trained salesman who knows more about the car than the BMW engineers?
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      09-24-2012, 11:07 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The X Men View Post
Who told you this, the well trained salesman who knows more about the car than the BMW engineers?
That's the one. The one from the dealership who will charge a fortune to put everything right after driving the car without observing the break in period
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      09-24-2012, 08:21 PM   #10
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My dealer just told me to not go over 90 mph the first 1000 miles. I'd drive in Eco mode and keep the rpms low for that 1000 miles as well!
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      09-24-2012, 10:25 PM   #11
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My dealer just told me to not go over 90 mph the first 1000 miles. I'd drive in Eco mode and keep the rpms low for that 1000 miles as well!
I wouldn't necessarily keep the RPMs low, but I wouldn't go over the RPM limit in the manual during the break-in miles. My manual says to limit RPM to 4K so I stay below that, but I do let the engine rev up to that point occasionally without using full throttle acceleration. Some of the components need to get seated and conformed to their mating surfaces and so I let the engine work its way up to 4K and then switch into Eco Pro and let the engine drop to a lower RPM. I plan to keep my car for at least the next 8 years so I won't abuse it, but I do recognize that the engine needs to do some work to loosen up a bit and start making all its power.
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      09-25-2012, 11:17 PM   #12
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I've got about 1100 miles so far on my 335i Msport.
It's seen red line a number of times all ready, along with a few full throttle accel runs, all well before 500 miles on it.
No WFO from standstill yet, but very soon.

Within the first week of getting my car I did what I've done with all my new cars and bikes.
I do a moderate slow accel to redline in 1st, then let engine braking bring it back down slowly until around a bit above idle, then 2nd gear accel moderately slow to red line and let the engine slowly decrease revs, repeat with at least 3rd and as much with 4th as speed conditions allow.

The purpose is to let the engine run to it's maximum rpm and then let the natural vacuum and friction bring it back down, thus allowing the rings to fully do their job and mate well with the cylinder wall, and for all the engines whirrly bits to get full rev and mate with each other. This is one area where you don't want "loosening up". Piston rings help provide the needed seal for maximum compression of the air/fuel mix, which leads to best efficiency and power production with least blow by, meaning, keeping the oil away from the combustion chamber, and keeping the gasoline out of the oil supply. Keep all the bits happy and working in harmony.

This engine has shown itself to be very strong and powerful. It feels even stronger than the N54 in my previous 135i. This 335i is a bit heavier than my 135i, yet it feels stronger and faster. I got a good one and want to make sure I give it a good initial wear in.

The only thing I don't do is WFO standing starts all the way to red line a la drag race style before 1000 miles. After that, it's ON!
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      10-12-2012, 01:15 AM   #13
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I tried to be easy on it..just couldnt, im gonna drive it like it was built to be driven.
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      10-12-2012, 08:16 AM   #14
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I don't have my car yet - should be here next week. But I have a Honda with 126k miles that regularly sees 9000 rpm, pulls strongly, doesn't burn any oil - and it was broken in similarly to RPM90's description. I plan on doing something similar with the N20 as well.

Check back in 10 years, we'll see how I did.
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      10-13-2012, 02:23 AM   #15
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Japanese cars are high rev engines though, not sure if German inline 6's are as high.
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      10-17-2012, 12:25 PM   #16
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if its a lease, drive it however you want (warranty and maintenance has you covered as long as you aren't abusing it), otherwise I would take it easy for the first 2,000 miles.
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