F30POST
F30POST
2012-2015 BMW 3-Series and 4-Series Forum
BMW Garage BMW Meets Register Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read
BMW 3-Series and 4-Series Forum (F30 / F32) | F30POST > Technical Forums > Navigation, iDrive, Audio, Video, Bluetooth, Phone, Cameras, Electronics > Gas Door rattle (for those with sub(s) in the trunk)
Post Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
      10-24-2012, 08:44 AM   #1
NateDog07V
Private First Class
3
Rep
124
Posts

 
Drives: '13 335i M-Sport BSM/CoralRed
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Arlington, VA

iTrader: (0)

Gas Door rattle (for those with sub(s) in the trunk)

After tossing an aftermarket amp and 12" sub into the trunk of my F30, the biggest thing i've found that rattles quite embarassingly is the gas door on the passneger side. Anyone found an easy way to rectify this, either with a strategically placed piece of 'padding' or some sort of sound deadener?

Quick photo of the sub/amp below. Box is secured with velcro
Appreciate 0
      10-24-2012, 02:58 PM   #2
john08135i
Major
john08135i's Avatar
United_States
20
Rep
1,023
Posts

 
Drives: 2013 M Sport, 2010 bmw S1000RR
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Orlando

iTrader: (0)

Send a message via Yahoo to john08135i
Did you do a cleanSweep or similar to tap into the signal from where for lows?
__________________
M Sport Line Estoril Blue
Appreciate 0
      10-25-2012, 07:42 PM   #3
NateDog07V
Private First Class
3
Rep
124
Posts

 
Drives: '13 335i M-Sport BSM/CoralRed
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Arlington, VA

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by john08135i View Post
Did you do a cleanSweep or similar to tap into the signal from where for lows?
No, you don't need a fancy harness or processor or anything special for this install. It's super easy since everything is in the trunk. Get some in line splices, electric tape, and then the standard, sub, amp, and amp kit. If your amp has hi level inputs (speaker level) then just tap the 4 thick wires coming off the stock amp which go to the subs under the front seats for your signal. They are in a twisted pair so just spread them a bit to give yourself room to tap them. The wires with the red stripe are the +'s and the ones with the brown stripes are the -'s. Then your remote turn on is the very thin black wire coming out of the amp as well. You can see all wires in the photo below.
http://www.f30post.com/forums/showpo...5&postcount=18

It's very obvious once you look at your stock amp which is in the trunk on the drivers side under the removable plastic cover. There's a convenient ground location on the drivers side behind the carpet for your amp. And in terms of power, just run a line to the convenient positive terminal accessory location which is under a small red plastic cover that has a + sign on it. It's just above the actual positive terminal on the battery which is behind the removable cover on the right side of the trunk. In terms of the overall install process, it's very straightforward....
1. REMOVE NEGATIVE TERMINAL ON BATTERY BEFORE DOING ANYTHING ELECTRICAL... if i remember correctly, you need a 9 or 10mm socket wrench
2. Take in line fuse out of your power wire
3. Run power wire to positive terminal accessory location. This should be a 10mm nut that you just remove, put power wire terminal ring over, then put nut back on
4. Run other end of power wire to amp
5. Acquire audio signal by tapping the 4 thick wires from the stock amp output and run to your aftermarket amp (either directly to hi level input location (recommended) or to RCA line out converter which then goes to your RCA input on aftermarket amp).
6. Run remote turn on to the very thin black wire coming from the stock amp
7. Ground your amp to one of the available grounding locations in the trunk (behind the carpet). I used the one on the drivers side as my amp/sub is velcroed down to the drivers side of the trunk. The grounding location looks like a rectangular plate with a bunch of brown stock ground wires going to it. Just loosen the mounting screw that holds the plate down, and slide your ground wire under it and tighten back down.
8. Put in line fuse back in power wire
9. Reconnect negative terminal and test amp/sub
10. Tuck wires away and secure sub box for a clean install
10. RESET YOUR DATE/TIME in iDrive as there will be a yellow warning indicator that pops up since the car did not have power

Rock out with your new and improved audio system !
Appreciate 0
      10-25-2012, 07:46 PM   #4
NateDog07V
Private First Class
3
Rep
124
Posts

 
Drives: '13 335i M-Sport BSM/CoralRed
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Arlington, VA

iTrader: (0)

Also, just to clarify, this is for the stock US HiFi audio system... This is NOT for the Harmon Kardon upgraded system
Appreciate 0
      10-26-2012, 10:59 AM   #5
ScarecrowBoat
Zooombie attaaack!!
ScarecrowBoat's Avatar
United_States
11
Rep
890
Posts

 
Drives: 2012 328i
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: NEB

iTrader: (2)

Garage List
2012 BMW  [0.00]
Did you disable the stock subs? I think I am going to do this
__________________
13 Nissan 370z
08 Range Rover Sport SC
Appreciate 0
      10-26-2012, 12:17 PM   #6
NateDog07V
Private First Class
3
Rep
124
Posts

 
Drives: '13 335i M-Sport BSM/CoralRed
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Arlington, VA

iTrader: (0)

Nope, left them running to fill the mid range nicely and now the aftermarket sub takes care of the lows which it's made for... when you go in to Tone settings, i have it so it's always between 3-7 clicks which is well below the middle since the stock system distorts when cranked with the bass that high on a lot of songs (hip hop i gotta back it off a touch, classic rock i can turn up a bit, all within the iDrive Tone settings). My aftermarket amp Gain is about 30% with no bass boost and low pass filter set at 80Hz... hope this helps
Appreciate 0
      10-28-2012, 10:44 AM   #7
kaigoss69
Brigadier General
kaigoss69's Avatar
United_States
63
Rep
3,088
Posts

 
Drives: '08 335i
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: JAX

iTrader: (5)

With that type set-up, anything that can rattle will rattle. The sound waves bounce around in the trunk and excite the panels, so most of the energy from the sub goes to waste, and annoying rattles. There are only two set-ups that will minimize rattles, and maximize the amount of sound pressure in the cabin. Go look-up "corner-loading" and "infinite baffle". Both are far superior to your set-up.

Oh, and the words "secured" and "velcro" are mutually exclusive!
__________________
Mobridge DA2 > JBL MS-8 > ARC XDi 600/4 > JBL Gti 408 Mids & Vifa XT19 Tweeters; PG Ti2 1600.5 > Morel HCW-10 & IDMax 15
Appreciate 0
      04-15-2014, 08:10 AM   #8
Mrfurious214
Private
5
Rep
70
Posts

 
Drives: 2013 335i M-Sport
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Ridgewood, NJ

iTrader: (0)

Anyone ever figure out a solution to this? My gas door rattle's obnoxiously also. Can't figure out a way to stop it.
Appreciate 0
Post Reply

Bookmarks

Tags
amp, rattle, subwoofer

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 07:21 PM.




f30post
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.0
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
1Addicts.com, BIMMERPOST.com, E90Post.com, F30Post.com, M3Post.com, ZPost.com, 5Post.com, 6Post.com, 7Post.com, XBimmers.com logo and trademark are properties of BIMMERPOST