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      09-29-2012, 11:06 PM   #23
einlanzer
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Does anyone have a step-by-step with pictures?
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      10-24-2012, 03:55 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmw328jc View Post
i hard wired my V1 - Ran the wires to the cig lighter under the passenger side footwell and ground to a bolt i found under there. Works perfectly.

Note- When you hit the unlock button the radar will turn on because the car gives power to that outlet.
Just as a follow-up to this suggestion, I also "hardwired" my Bel RX-65 from the outlet in the passenger footwell. I actually modified the Bel's cig lighter plug-in adaptor and then ran the wiring around the footwell to the door seal, up the A-pillar, and underneath the headliner (see below for some pics).

I actually chose this solution so that I didn't have to "mod" any of the vehicle wiring (tap into wires, etc.). Works great and it was pretty easy.

Let me know if you have any questions!

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      10-24-2012, 04:11 PM   #25
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Wow I didn't even know that power outlet existed...that looks like a cinch (although I don't know if the wire on my V1 is quite long enough, but that's easy to sort out)
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      10-24-2012, 04:41 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeffd0901 View Post
Just as a follow-up to this suggestion, I also "hardwired" my Bel RX-65 from the outlet in the passenger footwell. I actually modified the Bel's cig lighter plug-in adaptor and then ran the wiring around the footwell to the door seal, up the A-pillar, and underneath the headliner (see below for some pics).

I actually chose this solution so that I didn't have to "mod" any of the vehicle wiring (tap into wires, etc.). Works great and it was pretty easy.

Let me know if you have any questions!

Jeff
Same detector and the same location FTW.

I used to get a new one every 2-3 years but the RX65 has been so good it's nearing 10 years with me.
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      10-24-2012, 05:33 PM   #27
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Same detector and the same location FTW.

I used to get a new one every 2-3 years but the RX65 has been so good it's nearing 10 years with me.
Yep, it's been in the same spot in two 993's, an E39 M5, and a Cooper S... saved my arse more than once.
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      10-24-2012, 06:18 PM   #28
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Yep, it's been in the same spot in two 993's, an E39 M5, and a Cooper S... saved my arse more than once.
Yep, mine dates back to my Viggen, then CC and now the 3. It's paid for itself 10x over at least.
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      10-24-2012, 06:19 PM   #29
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Nice, good idea running he wires around that way. I will have to buy the flat wire from V1 for mine and give it a go.
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      10-24-2012, 06:23 PM   #30
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Nice, good idea running he wires around that way. I will have to buy the flat wire from V1 for mine and give it a go.
FYI the V1 wires are standard RJ11 phone cables. You should be able to buy any length at any hardware or electronics store for a few bucks.
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      10-24-2012, 06:33 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cyberdemon View Post
FYI the V1 wires are standard RJ11 phone cables. You should be able to buy any length at any hardware or electronics store for a few bucks.
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      12-16-2012, 03:23 PM   #32
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Just got a chance to doing this today...wasn't too bad, took me 2 hrs but that's because it was raining and I was trying to do everything with the doors closed. I also installed the V1 remote display, otherwise it would have taken 15 minutes.

I used the cigarette adapter in the port underneath the glove box like Jeff D suggested.

This also worked out well for the remote display. There was no great position on this car for the remote display, so I ended up mounting it to the top of the steering column. Slightly blocks the odometer, but not a huge deal.

I ran the V1 power wire up the A pillar as shown above, and then pulled out the vent cluster/trim. I used a hangar as a snake to run 1 end of the remote display wire to below the steering wheel. I wrapped it around the bottom of the wheel and up the far side, it stays in place reasonably well just using the foam trim that is there. The other end I snaked straight down to right above where the passenger footwell outlet is. That let me grab the wire and plug it right into the V1 adapter. For not truly hardwiring, it's very clean and everything stays tucked inside the dash.
Everything yanked apart...I was going to try and run it underneath the stereo but there was no good way to get across the console.



V1 mounted over the passenger side to keep it out of the middle of the window.



Remote display double stick taped to the steering column.

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      12-16-2012, 05:13 PM   #33
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Check DIY forum for direct wiring from the mirror housing with switched 12V.

It's very clean without running wires all over the places. Power source: Brown/black - 12V +; Brown/green - ground.
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      12-16-2012, 06:13 PM   #34
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The only problem with running a direct line from the mirror is that you can't use the remote display for a V1.
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      12-16-2012, 06:29 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cyberdemon
The only problem with running a direct line from the mirror is that you can't use the remote display for a V1.
Wrong! Use the V1 direct writing came with the detector. You will have the ACC outlet for what you were talking about
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      12-16-2012, 08:53 PM   #36
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Wrong! Use the V1 direct writing came with the detector. You will have the ACC outlet for what you were talking about
Is there enough room back there to house the direct wire block? If you do that, then you still have to run the a wire down the A-pillar to wherever the remote display is...don't see it being much different and this didn't require any wire tapping so it'll come out easy when I take the lease back.

This method wasn't very hard...if I knew which way I wanted to route the wire it would've taken 30 minutes. I tried taking the glove box out at one point then realized I could just snake around it.
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      12-16-2012, 09:47 PM   #37
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Isn't there power available at the map lights? Likewise the sunroof (for cars with a sunroof of course). A little time with a meter will be very enlightening. I'll be doing mine whenever it gets here. I'll never be without my V1. I've never really seen the value of the remote display, so I don't bother with one.

I love Posi-Taps. Super simple and easy to pull out down the road:

http://www.posi-lock.com/posiplug.html
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      12-16-2012, 10:48 PM   #38
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if you are considering RX65, i'd look at PRO300 instead since the range has been improved to 2miles+
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      12-17-2012, 01:08 AM   #39
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I have done this through the mirror. I used the basic bits in quoted post below to do it, and threaded the wires directly into the back of the mirror plug as shown, only without the metal pins (I may use them later, the ones I had were too short and were not making contact). V1 turns on/off as you'd expect, and it works great. I plan to look at adding in the remote display soon too, which should just be a matter of running the other two lines in the phone line to wherever I decide to mount it.

If you do do this, I highly recommend at least one ziptie keeping your phone cord in place inside the mirror, I had mine slip out the back of the plug once which was annoying.


Quote:
My 9500ix install is very similar, except instead of wiring it into the Overhead Console, I installed it by separating the Rear View Mirror Housing, which easily separates in the middle at the seam, and tapping into the backside of the 10-Wire Connector Plug inside it, with +12V (Switched off the ignition) on the Brown/Green wire and Ground on the Brown/Black wire.









In case anyone is interested, the Wire I am using is a "Corvette Radar Detector InvisiCord" from Southern Car Parts.
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      01-03-2013, 04:17 PM   #40
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Originally Posted by kerz View Post
I have done this through the mirror. I used the basic bits in quoted post below to do it, and threaded the wires directly into the back of the mirror plug as shown, only without the metal pins (I may use them later, the ones I had were too short and were not making contact). V1 turns on/off as you'd expect, and it works great. I plan to look at adding in the remote display soon too, which should just be a matter of running the other two lines in the phone line to wherever I decide to mount it.

If you do do this, I highly recommend at least one ziptie keeping your phone cord in place inside the mirror, I had mine slip out the back of the plug once which was annoying.
I thought the power up there was only 9Volts!! must 12V , how easy is it to remove the mirror assy please, I do not want to brake anything?.
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      01-03-2013, 04:33 PM   #41
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Not too bad, the clips are tough. I found using the mirror to torque it a bit was easiest, but I'm sure there's a more elegant way.
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      01-03-2013, 04:39 PM   #42
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V1

I installed a V1 using the SAVVY module they sell. Really, really easy to plug it into the ODB port and then run it up the A-Pillar. Works perfectly too.

I'm curious about putting a V1 remote display in the HUD (just sitting on top of it or something?) Anyone have any thoughts on this?
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      01-04-2013, 09:29 AM   #43
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I tried to do what you were thinking (point the remote display up at the window so you could see the reflection).

I found there was no great surface to mount it to to get the angle it needed to be at to reflect properly, no clean way of routing the cable (that wouldn't have involved disassembling the dash and HUD) and that with my height/eye level I had to position the remote display above the hud, which actually put it at a kind of obnoxious height while driving.

I could have put it further over but the NY registration stickers were in the way so I just stuck with the steering column. I like being able to hit the mute button without leaning over and touching the V1 itself (because usually the suction cups give way and the thing falls off).
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      03-05-2013, 03:43 AM   #44
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Originally Posted by mfrenkie View Post
I installed a V1 using the SAVVY module they sell. Really, really easy to plug it into the ODB port and then run it up the A-Pillar. Works perfectly too.

I'm curious about putting a V1 remote display in the HUD (just sitting on top of it or something?) Anyone have any thoughts on this?
What is the ODB port? Also...I have a V1....what is the SAVVY module?

Thank you.
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