12-22-2016, 05:39 PM | #1 |
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320i ECU remap at 77k miles. Yes or no?
Picked up a 320i last week with 77k miles(125,200 km's to be exact, i live in Holland). I usually dont buy cars with more than 100,000 km/60k miles on the dash but the thing is i still have 9 months of BMW guarantee with this car. So that kinda makes me more comfortable with it. Its an ex-lease and always maintened at BMW. I do have the knocking engine sound but like everyone says, its gone when the oil is hot enough. And everything else is just smoooth.
Now the big question. I was delightfully suprised to hear that the 320i has the same engine, turbo, drivetrain and transmission as the 328i, except for the pistons. So a remap is a logical choice. But is this a smart thing to do at 125,000 km's? Is the N20 engine solid enough for this? And just to be clear: i want the 184hp to 260hp remap. Also IF i take the remap, i will probably go to the ZF(the maker of the tranny) hq in Dortmund to get a full revision for about 400. Which is a really fair price. |
12-22-2016, 05:52 PM | #2 | |
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Supposedly the n20 isn't the most tunable engine, but my 328 is putting down north of 300lbft & HP to the wheel. Apparently the timing chain and oil pump chains are supposed to be suspect, but not sure how much more stress you put on those by tuning. Also putting down more than 340lbft is a bad idea, as the rod bolts stretch and rods have been shown to give out. There are also a few cases I've read about where the Pistons have cracked. I think if anything in yours was going to go, maybe it would already have gone, or maybe the chains already been changed? Perhaps with looking into. I think you're pretty safe going to the stock 28i power. |
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12-22-2016, 09:44 PM | #3 | ||
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What mods do you have on your N20 to net 300whp/wtq? I have 255whp/310wtq with my tune alone but am curious how you got to 300whp
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2016 BMW 328i M Sport 6MT (Mineral Grey over Coral Red)
*BPC DME Custom Stage 1 Tune *Evolution Racerwerks Competition Intercooler & Chargepipe *M Performance Big Brake Kit |
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12-22-2016, 10:28 PM | #4 | |||
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ACF have setup the stage 3 tune for the upgraded Turbo pretty conservatively for now. I don't get any more torque than Stage 2 with stock Turbo (330lbft) but the added flow capacity means we hold that target much longer (HP = TORQUE x RPM รท 5252). So 330lbft gets 314HP at 5000rpm. Confident we can take it to 350HP or higher by holding the higher boost target up to 5500 or 6000rpm. One of their Brazilian customers got 380HP, but that's on Flex fuel which is E110 (basically race gas) |
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12-23-2016, 01:57 PM | #6 | |
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2016 BMW 328i M Sport 6MT (Mineral Grey over Coral Red)
*BPC DME Custom Stage 1 Tune *Evolution Racerwerks Competition Intercooler & Chargepipe *M Performance Big Brake Kit |
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12-28-2016, 05:05 AM | #7 | |
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12-28-2016, 08:31 AM | #8 | ||
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I installed he M3 rear cross brace. It's an inexpensive cool OEM mod you can do. That definitely helps keep me more centered. I'll see if I can find the link for that forum. |
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12-28-2016, 04:10 PM | #9 | |
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out of curiosity I just dyno got 285/330 with Cali crap 91 from 17 psi to 23 I only gained 3 horsepower peak but like 30 torques. turbo is out of breathe http://imgur.com/zUeepej I will make a proper post if people are interested? |
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12-28-2016, 04:31 PM | #10 | ||
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So I'm only holding the same pressure target (and torque), but my Turbo can provide the air all the way up. Interestingly there is a tiny bit more lag, the torque curve isn't quite as steep going up (i.e. It doesn't come on as fast, which I actually like), but it hits the same number as Stage 2 did (330lbft) around 200rpm later and then keeps on going. It's quite different feeling now. Where it used to run out of steam and I would shift to stay on torque, it now keeps pulling hard up the rpm's. |
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12-28-2016, 10:59 PM | #11 | |
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Either way we are putting down v8 torque with the 4 If u don't mind I'm going to PM u about the turbo upgrade. It's that or getting a 35 and swapping the bolt on over here's a scan version of the dyno session. Last 2 runs were 23 psi Last edited by CRJdriver; 12-28-2016 at 11:04 PM.. |
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01-23-2017, 07:09 PM | #12 | |
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I would also either install a downpipe or upgraded muffler to help assist with the added power. |
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01-24-2017, 08:14 AM | #13 | ||
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01-24-2017, 08:37 AM | #14 | ||
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Basically you see that the compressor has reached its choke point. The other impact of that is that it's no longer running efficiently and is actually adding more heat to the charge. With a bigger compressor (and Turbine supporting it) the compressor can shift more air more efficiently and not add as much heat. So not only is the charge a bigger volume it's also cooler and more dense too. The stock turbo is a TD04LR6-04HR.15TK31-60T. That's a reverse TD04L and has the smaller L turbine, while the Stage 2 unit has the turbine housing machined out to fit the TD04HL turbine. Also in Reverse. Wheel Exducer (in.) Inducer (in.) Trim TD04L.........1.62.....1.86....76 TD04HL.......1.80.....2.05....77 On the compressor side the Wheel goes from 15T to a much bigger custom billet compressor. The numbers I was given from Hexon are: OEM BMW COMPRESSOR: 56/42mm trim: 56 HEXON COMPRESSOR: 60/48.5mm trim: 65 I don't have a compressor map for the Hexon, but you can see it's much larger then the OEM one. It certainly does deliver a lot more flow more efficiently and definitely is inside the choke point, even at the higher pressure ratio and flow. Also the billet wheel's inducer is close enough to the TD04HL turbine exducer so so it's pretty much right sized. Now when I go to forged internals I'll probably be pushing this setup much closer to the choke point, and then may need to look at something else. |
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