05-12-2013, 05:58 PM | #89 | |
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Say no bro, go to this website http://bmwconfig.com/ and configure your car. once you done add a couple hundred $400 to $1000 to the invoice u got and tell him this how much youre willing to pay. or send a couple emails to dealers with your options and price.
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05-12-2013, 06:13 PM | #90 | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
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Yea I went to that site before. I guess I shouldve used a different strategy, instead of asking how close to invoice they would go. And told them how much I would pay. Here's what I came up with:
I also talked to another dealer through email, and they said they can get me $1000 over invoice not including incentives and special offers. So now this sounds like a great deal to me. Thanks for the advice. |
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05-12-2013, 06:27 PM | #91 |
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GOOD! It's great deal, so now check this guy up http://www.bestbuyleasing.com and tell them to give you their best prices or can they do any better. and im pretty sure they will give a way better price. and if u wanna go low ask for MSD (Multiple Security Deposit)
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05-12-2013, 06:48 PM | #92 | |
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First negotiate price. Then make sure that they're not padding the Money Factor. If they're using a money factor of .00167, then they're padding it by the maximum allowed by BMW. Demand a Money Factor of .00127. Also make sure that they're not padding the fees. (Acquisition fee should be $725; Dealer/prep/processing fee varies from state to state, but you usually shouldn't pay more than $400; title and tags should be a couple of hundred more plus tax.) To get your price, send an email to 4 or 5 sales managers or fleet managers (not salesmen). Tell them, I'm ready to buy, no need for a test drive, no need to haggle...I will give you a quick and easy sale if you will sell me this car (include specs) at $54,600, which is $650 over invoice. I bet one of them will accept. Once you've negotiated the price, ensure that your getting the base Money Factor, and ask for a break down of all the fees. Once that's out of the way, apply any incentives you might have coming your way. I believe the only incentive right now is the $750 loyalty cash incentive. If you're eligible, then you'll get your car for $100 below invoice. Then you may opt for multiple security deposits. Seven MSD's will lower your Money Factor to .00078. Hope this helps. Last edited by DC Newbie; 05-12-2013 at 06:54 PM.. |
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05-12-2013, 07:31 PM | #93 | |
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and thanks. I couldn't say it any better.
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05-12-2013, 08:27 PM | #94 | |
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Know your #'s and calculate the lease at invoice beforehand. Don't believe any calculation the dealer makes, calculate it yourself. I just got a dealer to agree to a car at $100 below invoice, plus rebates. In the end its YOUR money. Why leave $200 on the table? |
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05-12-2013, 08:27 PM | #95 | |
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In other words, if you get the dealer to drop the selling price by $800 extra, you save $800 over the term of the lease, not just 36% of that amount as you seem to think. The residual never changes since it is based on MSRP and not selling price, so as you drop the selling price, that comes directly out of the depreciation portion of your payment. And then in addition to that, you save a little more in interest and tax. So if you haggle an extra $800, you save that amount. Up to you if you want to do it, but I know I am not interested in paying $800+ more than I have to.
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05-12-2013, 09:26 PM | #96 |
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Yeah, you're absolutely right. Wasn't thinking straight. (Luckily I didn't let my bad math get in the way of negotiating a good deal. Or maybe I got dumber after signing my lease?)
Was using the kind of logic that helped me justify getting options I didn't really need--as in, well that's an $900 option, but it's actually only another $340 out of pocket so.... My bad. Ignore everything I've said. Btw, sarafil, how are you liking your ride? I ordered the xDrive (Sport Line) as well. It's due to arrive in a few weeks. Last edited by DC Newbie; 05-12-2013 at 09:31 PM.. |
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05-12-2013, 09:29 PM | #97 | |
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05-12-2013, 09:41 PM | #98 | |
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05-12-2013, 09:44 PM | #99 |
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Exactly. Makes it easy to keep adding on options.
But once you've optioned your car, and MSRP and residual are set, any deduction you're able to negotiate goes into your pocket. I gave faulty advice--which I've deleted to avoid messing people up. |
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05-12-2013, 09:56 PM | #100 | |
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Do you find that the driving dynamics on AWD similar to the RWD (in everyday driving)? |
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05-14-2013, 07:41 AM | #102 |
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Subscribed Thanks for the advice guys
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05-14-2013, 08:11 AM | #103 |
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Thought i'd share this here:
May buy rate lease money factor and residual value for a 36-month lease of a 2013 335 Sedan with 15,000 miles per year are .00127 and 62% for consumers who qualify for its top credit tiers. |
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05-15-2013, 12:40 AM | #104 |
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top credit tiers are 700+ on all three majors credit reports right?
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05-15-2013, 12:43 AM | #105 |
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MY LEASE:
13 335i m sport estoril blue 2 / red interior Sport paddle shifter Premium package Technology package M sport package HK stereo system msrp $56.500 down $6000 + $1000 rebate 12k miles - 3 years, $480 per month including taxes.
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05-15-2013, 12:44 AM | #106 |
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i hope that 6k down is MSD
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05-15-2013, 10:50 AM | #107 |
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Here is my lease payment
2013 Mineral Grey/Black M Sport Premium Pkg Technology Package 19 inch wheels Sport/Paddle Shifters 10k/year 36 months BMW 1000 Credit 1,200 Cap reduction $605/ month including taxes
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05-15-2013, 11:08 AM | #108 |
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05-15-2013, 02:56 PM | #109 | |
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Before going further Is 6,000 in MSD (Multiple security deposits)? I think this is accurate. Which is pretty low if you ask me, but the credit limits have been getting better and better and they are opening up the window for the scores that are considered "top" tier. |
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05-15-2013, 05:19 PM | #110 |
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