07-24-2023, 12:52 PM | #265 |
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09-17-2023, 03:29 PM | #266 |
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Ultra Racing has a rear swaybar that is 16mm ,https://ultraracing-usa.com/bmw-3-se...nti-sway-16mm/. Also do you know you can go with whiteline endlinks and adjust them taller than stock to get more preload on your stock sway bar along with adding stiffer swaybar bushings. My setup is 450lbs front with 900lbs rear with Flatout racing CS coilovers. Comfortable is heck. I actually want stiffer for track. I have no idea why you guys recomend 200lbs + springs for the front when my setup is actually like stock but way more stable. I also am not upgrading my swaybars especially after what you guys has mentioned. Anyone with Bilstein B14s try a 700 lbs spring in the rear that made my B14 setup when I had it on very stable under acceleration and planted. B14 won't work well with anything more than 700 in the rear like when I had the 800lbs spring it got softer and bouncier as well as less sporty. For anyone thinking large swaybars are the end all be all remember that GM engineered the Gen 5 Camaro Z28 with soft swaybars and stiffer springs and that was a killer setup.
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09-17-2023, 07:27 PM | #267 |
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Drives: 2015 BMW 335i x-Drive Auto
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: New Jersey/Philadelphia
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FYI- Eibach also makes an F3x solid rear 16mm sway bar. See photo for part number. There are also solid rear bars from other manufacturers in 17mm, 19mm and 20mm.
I don’t recommend the front Eibach bar because it’s hollow. H&R makes a solid front 28mm sway bar. There are four different H&R part numbers depending on the F3x car’s configuration. See photo. Hope this helps! |
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09-18-2023, 12:09 PM | #268 | |
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Drives: 2014 335i M-Sport Estoril Blue
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: Sterling, VA
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I got my 15mm rear sway bar installed this weekend. It was tedious, but not difficult enough that I got frustrated. I watched two different tutorials, and I actually did not need to do quite as much as either suggested. For example, I did not need to remove the drive shaft center support bearing at all. Due to having solid subframe bushings, I couldn't just undo the front subframe bolts and let it sag, needed to undo all four bolts. I left the bolts threaded in about an inch and then let it down with a jack slowly. Driver side was easy as hell to reach the bracket, but the passenger side has the gas tank fill neck in the way so I had it lower more than was needed for the driver side. I haven't done anything more than throw it around some corners and highway ramps, but I can tell you the car is MUCH better balanced than before with just the H&R front. I do miss the way the front loaded up with just the front bar, but it understeered much more easily in that config. In addition, with only the 28mm front bar, the front of the car would fall into bumps and make the car squirm/shimmy, now that is not as pronounced. I also will be ditching my adaptive suspension (bilstein b6 edc) next week for koni yellows. Will provide feedback on that in a different thread.
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09-18-2023, 12:42 PM | #269 | |
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Thanks for the feedback and install tips. I still have an OEM front bar, so hopefully it makes a decent difference. Figured I'd do that and the parking brake cables and subframe inserts at the same time. |
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