[Stu Blue Car]

Any tips and or tricks to this? I’ve got the n55 timing tool. Shafts line up perfect with the qr codes facing up. I lock the sensor wheels in place. Crankshaft pin is in place ( there is some available movement with the pin in) and i have a 1/4” wooden dowel in # 1 spark plug hole to indicate TDC.

Car cranks a little longer but starts and idles nice Then the codes come. Drivetrain malf, 130E20, 133b04

What am I doing wrong!!!???

[Stu Blue Car]

Before tightening

[LA1Z24]

Chain stretch, lack of oil pressure on the timing chain tensioner, lack of oil pressure/volume to keep vanos desired vs actual in check

The b04 code is a valvetronic code, not a timing code.

There is a 3 phase electric motor between spark plug boxes 1 and 2.

This motor also houses the position sensor.

The motor/sensor fails pretty often.

[Stu Blue Car]

Thanks. All valid points. I started with the eccentric shaft. Lol. Replaced shaft and motor.

I’m beginning to think I should cut my losses.

[Stu Blue Car]

The video suggests a timing chain. Probably right.

[LA1Z24]

Pull the chain out and lay it next to a new one like in the video. Easy enough especially if you've already got the timing tool kit,

[Stu Blue Car]

I don’t really want to pull the timing chain if I don’t have to. I’m a little intimidated by the crank seal and gear replacement.

Here is the update. I have given it another shot. I don’t have a torque wrench that will measure .6 NM So I don’t think I was putting enough tension on the chain while timing. The car now runs and idles fine. No check engine light however i do have drivetrain malfunction drive moderately. ISTA has a test plan but is seems the vanos gears are not moving. I bought aftermarket.

Codes are
- Charging pressure control: Switch-off as consequence
- Intake Camshaft: Installation faulty.
- Exhaust Camshaft: Installation faulty.

[yupetc]

Make sure your intake VANOS sprocket has EIN scripture on it, and make sure your Exhaust VANOS sprocket has AUS scripture on it. And do not use aftermarket replacement that you may find for cheap. If I were you, I'd rather buy an used one off eBay and ensure to know the origins of which car it comes from.

Over the years these sprockets have gone through some different changes, and there's some interchangeability between the N55 and other Nx variants. The sprockets may all appear very much the same to the eye, but they may have different angular actuated spans if other variant's are being retrofitted/sold to you to put on the N55. That'll cause timing to be real funky.

If your VANOS sprockets confide to be exact and no issues with them at all, then be sure to also check on the flywheel locking hole. My car is automatic so I have a flex-plate. And on mine, the key can go into the TDC slot, but part of the key slot's prong fingers have been slightly bent from when I was torque-ing down the crank pully bolt. Eventually after so many crank pulley bolt installations against the flex-plate, that plate finally was bent out of shape. And these minute out of shape hole locations did cause me to have timing installation error codes. Took me a long time to figure it out, but after I swapped out the flex-plate and clock it again, all is well.

Here's my tip/sequence:
1) Set the TDC key in place of the flywheel or the flex-plate. Make sure there's not much play after the key is set. I also usually do this with the starter motor taken out so I can view the timing hole of the flex-plate as I turn the crank into locking position. There are enough wrong holes which may be rotated into place for the timing key to insert into. So make sure you're working with the correct hole.
2) Ensure there's some slack on the VANOS sprocket bolt. I usually hand tighten those with engine oil to the point that I know the sprocket doesn't wobble anymore. This is done with the chain already on the sprocket gears. And make sure at this point the camshafts can turn freely without affecting the movement of the sprockets. Check this with the chain loose so you can see if any wobbliness is present. Correct it as much as you can without totally stopping the turning motion with the bolt.
3) square up the timing tool on the camshafts (on your picture, the intake side's perpendicular joint doesn't look square enough to me, make sure you're using the correct cross beam from the timing tool kit) If you're confident of the tools in place, then screw everything on the timing tool down tightly (not the timing sprocket bolt. Leave that alone for the moment).
4) set tension on the dummy tensioner, it isn't too big of a deal, even at 1-Nm it will not get you in a bind. Technically, that dummy tensioner's job is to only ensure a taught chain and no slack. I've even dialed timing with 2-Nm on that dummy tensioner and all works well (my lowest torque wrench runs from 1.2-Nm, so I set it to 2-Nm which barely is a few clicks out, and hand feel the chain to be tight.)
5) Tightening the sprocket bolts to the initial indicated torque spec: DO NOT activate the Torque-to-yield 180-degree turn, yet for these bolts. After the bolts are donned with the initial torque, go ahead and free up the TDC key and the camshaft locking tools and rotate the crankshaft a few rounds by hand. Upon each return to TDC for cylinder 1, do a checkshot to see if the flywheel key and the camshaft timing bracket tool is aligned. One big tip I found from experience having done quite many of this is when you're doing this check, it's best to dock up the camshaft brackets first, hand-tighten the bracket down, making sure you're squared on the cams; then insert the TDC key into the flywheel. The reason I check it in this sequence is because the camshaft brackets have much less give once fitted, it's the TDC hole on the flywheel that has play. So if you're able to spin it a few revs and always ended up spot on for both bracket and the TDC key to go in perfectly, then you've clocked that timing spot on. If you do this check and when you get to checking the TDC key fitment to be slightly off, chances of you getting a timing error code will be higher, do this check at least three times to make sure you always end up on the bullseye then move on to step 6.
6) Finalize the TTY torque and do the 180-degree extra turn on the sprocket bolts, that there will get you dialed in. When you're doing this TTY torque sequence, try to minimize the frequency of applying the turn. Due to the angle and clearance of the engine bay, you may not be able to go 0-deg to 180-deg in one go, but you can divide it into 2 turns of 90 degrees each turn or 3 turns of 60 degrees each turn. The TTY bolt has a yield property that's pre-derived by the BMW engineers. They've empirically specified this exact bolt from its innate stress-strain property. Every more instance you've had to re-apply force to turn it, you're breaking up the continuous stress characteristics in this step, and doing it in small turn steps means the bolt is resetting then receiving more tension force to create the clamp force. So keep this in mind and minimize the attempt to turn the bolt in getting that final 80-degrees mark. In other words, if it takes you 10 times in small incremental turns and get to 180-degrees, you're doing it wrong. You'll end up with diminishing outcome against what's intended to clamp this bolt down. It may not be a big deal since you're probably going to achieve the ball-park stretch; but the whole is greater than the sum of its parts, so every small step errors will add up in the end. This is also why you don't re-use the same bolt after it has been yielded to 180-degrees from previous installation. Back of my mind while I do engine work I always keep a "cone of uncertainty" model to overlay it to my craftsmanship and accumulate on how I've possibly have small errors during; and if I did too many steps impatiently and don't pay attention to engineered details like the TTY bolts, I consider it a confidence degradation in my work.
7) Replace the dummy tension with the actual new tensioner unit. Remove the TDC key and the camshaft tools, then you're done.

*EDIT* came back to add and clarify some good tips and points while doing the timing sequence.

Hope this helps!

[Stu Blue Car]

Amazing thanks. You should see if that can be a sticky post. I have a 1/4 dowel down the spark plug hole and the “key” in the flexplate so I’m confident with the tdc. My installation can’t be that bad because after driving around town for 2 days I still don’t have a cel. Just the drivetrain malfunction. I did buy cheap sprockets. I have looked over the original ones and i’ve got the spring to lie flat again. So I’m going to reinstall them. And see what happens.

I’ll update when it’s done.

[yupetc]

Originally Posted by Stu Blue Car

Amazing thanks. You should see if that can be a sticky post. I have a 1/4 dowel down the spark plug hole and the “key” in the flexplate so I’m confident with the tdc. My installation can’t be that bad because after driving around town for 2 days I still don’t have a cel. Just the drivetrain malfunction. I did buy cheap sprockets. I have looked over the original ones and i’ve got the spring to lie flat again. So I’m going to reinstall them. And see what happens.

I’ll update when it’s done.

Definitely ditch the cheap sprockets because there are a whole lot of irresponsible sellers out there supplying wrong sprockets to like chassis without knowing the actual angular effect of the VANOS upon actuation. Ultimately it's your motor, not theirs to break. If you're not having luck with the original one that you put back in, should should look up on eBay for a cheap used genuine one; just make sure it's coming off a car of your same chassis and engine code. Good luck, buddy.

[F32Fleet]

Originally Posted by yupetc

Make sure your intake VANOS sprocket has EIN scripture on it, and make sure your Exhaust VANOS sprocket has AUS scripture on it. And do not use aftermarket replacement that you may find for cheap. If I were you, I'd rather buy an used one off eBay and ensure to know the origins of which car it comes from.

Over the years these sprockets have gone through some different changes, and there's some interchangeability between the N55 and other Nx variants. The sprockets may all appear very much the same to the eye, but they may have different angular actuated spans if other variant's are being retrofitted/sold to you to put on the N55. That'll cause timing to be real funky.

If your VANOS sprockets confide to be exact and no issues with them at all, then be sure to also check on the flywheel locking hole. My car is automatic so I have a flex-plate. And on mine, the key can go into the TDC slot, but part of the key slot's prong fingers have been slightly bent from when I was torque-ing down the crank pully bolt. Eventually after so many crank pulley bolt installations against the flex-plate, that plate finally was bent out of shape. And these minute out of shape hole locations did cause me to have timing installation error codes. Took me a long time to figure it out, but after I swapped out the flex-plate and clock it again, all is well.

Here's my tip/sequence:
1) Set the TDC key in place of the flywheel or the flex-plate. Make sure there's not much play after the key is set. I also usually do this with the starter motor taken out so I can view the timing hole of [...]

Great write up

[yupetc]

Folks, over the past few nights I've been going back and forth in editing post #8 where I wrote up some tips and sequence for timing your cams to the crank. Few friends reached out to me off the forum asking some good questions, so I figured to come up here and re-write the sequence and add some tips and explanations to clarify even more.

Below pre-requisite still stands:
- Intake VANOS sprocket has EIN scripture on it
- Exhaust VANOS sprocket has AUS scripture on it
- Cannot mix Intake and Exhaust VANOS sprockets
- The timing discs on both intake and exhaust sprockets are interchangeable
NOTE:
Do not use cheap eBay/Amazon units which are advertised to fit your motor while it can also be used for other N5x variants. That's very irresponsible. N55 intake sprockets have operating span from 50-70 degrees of crank angle, and N52 intake sprockets have operating span from 30-40 degrees of crank angle. Exhaust for both are 45-55 degrees of crank angle. When you look up the N55 VANOS sprockets online, especially on eBay, you'll come across a cookie-cutter set that covers a 16-page list of different BMW vehicles going from 2-liter to 3-liter N-series engines. But if you really look it up, N20 and N55 has different VANOS span. It may not kill your motor to have the wrong sprocket, but it'll definitely play a big part in how your ECU works with the different sprockets. At the end of the day, your ECU doesn't know the difference; and all the while, fitment is a match. The least you should do is look up for an used VANOS set from the same vehicle you're driving.)

- For Sprocket gear bolts, you MUST NOT reuse the old bolt.
NOTE:
The reason you cannot reuse the old bolt is because these bolts are (TTY), torque-to-yield bolts. In material engineering, steel alloys have a composition property which can be stress-strain tested and presented on a chart of its characteristics when tension is applied to the material. There is a "plastic deformation" span of this metal which is where the TTY bolt operates within. Under this stress-allowance span, the bolt can go through stretch and it'll want to return to original shape, behaves like it remembers to go back to original length. This is where the bolt provides the best clamp-down force to sandwich the camshaft to the sprocket gears. Once you remove the bolt and measure its length against the brand new bolt, you'll see a slight difference in length; that means the old bolt no longer has the required TTY yield to be reused and provide enough clamp down force. These bolts are not highly engineered bolts, in fact they are quite common place in a lot of machinery operations. It's been proven that reusing the old bolts will lead to eventual loss of clamping force and you surely wouldn't want to lose the timing gears and let your piston gangbang your valves once the bolts are gone.

On flywheel (manual transmission) and flex plate (auto transmission), the TDC hole on either disc will have a fitment slot/prong behind the hole. So when you insert the key, ensure it goes all the way and if you are convenient enough to have a chance to inspect the disc, make sure the prong isn't bent/twisted in case you're using it against torque-ing down the crankshaft pulley bolt. That crankshaft bolt requires 100 Nm plus 270-degrees TTY rotation. It's a beast to reckon with; so if you habitually like to exercise that torque that much, you'll likely cause the disc to bend. A good way to check if your flexplate is bent is to place it on a very flat surface (my kitchen counter or sometimes a glass on an office desk will do the trick). Press on the disc against the flat surface one quadrant at a time. If there's a wobble, you have a bad disc; and that'll translate to a low-end vibration and a slight chattering noise during idle; as you rev out of idle, the noise will diminish and go away. If you have a wobbly disc, you must change out for another one as it will put wear on your torque converter bushing and eventually cause problems to the torque converter joint. On flywheel folks, I'm not sure if bending is even possible, but if it is, I'd imagine even more noise because of the geometry of the input shaft and throw-out bearing and what not.

Before you begin work, go ahead and take out the spark plugs and leave them open so that when you're trying to hand-crank the crankshaft it'll be much easier. If you leave the spark plugs untouched, you'll be cranking against intermittently compressed air. In this case, you can skip the gym this week, it's quite the workout if you're repeatedly turning the crank. Also helpful, place a long zip-tie or 1/4" drive extension into cylinder #1 so it'll land on top of the piston and as you turn the crank by hand, you can use the relative position to help you land and line up the TDC key hole with ease. I also take out the starter motor so I can observe the flex-plate (or flywheel) when the TDC hole is coming through to the alignment position.

Now the sequence:

1) To begin, you need to pre-set vaguely the TDC positions of the crankshaft and the camshafts without inserting the key, and make sure the intake and exhaust cam's UPC's are in their ready position. At this time, timing chain isn't in place.
NOTE: In this step, since this is an interference valvetrain you may wonder, can you rotate the crankshaft and both camshafts safely before you set them into position? and will the valves tap and bend? The intake camshaft will be fine however you move it against where ever the crank is because the VALVETRONIC system will have your intake valves near its closure position, so no matter how you rotate the intake cam, there will be no tapping to the piston. On exhaust camshaft, the literature I read says it's not safe to freely rotate the exhaust cam if crankshaft isn't in its TDC position. However, I've done it a few times where I wasn't aware of the camshaft position and rotate the crankshaft quite a few rounds for other investigations. I didn't find any valve tapping at all; but it could be that I was just lucky that the cam is probably not in position to have any of the valves open at its deepest. To back my case even further, I have done the same thing on a set of the N52 exhaust cams during this procedure for the N55 motor. The N52 cams have a longer duration and a 1mm deeper valve lift than the N55, and still, no valve tap, nor any valve seal leakages after this is done. BUT, the bottom line is, when you're about to clock your timing, the best step is to first set the crankshaft vaguely in its TDC position, then rotate the intake and exhaust cam into position, but try not to go more than 50 degrees out from the UPC-up position for the exhaust camshaft, to be safe.

2) Once the crank and cam shafts are both in position, set the camshaft locking tool in place first. The tool should be a loose fit first until you're able to square both camshafts up right and while you're finalizing the allen bolts to the cam locking tools, be sure to hand-guide the locking tool's overall structural geometry into its most squared position while you're tightening this, as much as you possibly can.
NOTE: The reason you lock the camshafts first is because the camshaft locking tool, if used correctly, should yield "no give" to the camshafts after they are set in position. Doing this will begin your procedure with much less uncertainty because the TDC hole on the flexplate has a slightly bigger hole than the locking key. So you'd want to lock the cams first. The on TDC key in the flexplate, you have choice to make once you're there.

3) Fit both VANOS sprocket gears onto the camshafts with timing chain on the gears then hand tighten the sprocket bolt. (make sure the timing discs are also on the sprockets before you insert the bolt) You will find the intake sprocket to go in a little easier than the exhaust sprocket, and if you're having issues getting the exhaust sprocket to go on, then remove both sprockets and try again by adding more oil to where the sprocket supposed to glide onto the camshaft. The timing chain makes it kind of tight for both sprockets to go in at the same time. A good trick I use is to have a hand on each sprocket and rotate the sprockets to walk the gears on the timing chain a little bit to then glide both sprockets onto the camshaft at the same time. This works well for me all the time. One extra thing I do is this: On facing view directly at the sprocket, under one of all the gear tooth, you should see a "notch mark". There's no literature saying you must line up this mark to the TDC position; but I always try my best to land this tooth to the chain so it aligns with the UPC-up position along the camshaft vector. Not sure if this applies to you, but on all N55's I dealt with, they all have this notch, and I align it just in case. Don't think this is too important because the literature didn't warrant this step, but I figured it won't hurt to be this tedious; and it's always worked well for me. Once you have the sprocket hand tighten in place, make sure they are tight enough to prevent wobble, but are loose enough to move them by rotating the crankshaft (both timing discs on the sprockets should also be free to rotate about).

4) At this moment, you should have a loose set of sprockets and a loose chain in place. Go ahead and try to align and insert the TDC key into the flexplate hole. There are enough wrong holes which may be rotated into place for the timing key to insert into. So make sure you're working with the correct hole.
NOTE:
Once you have the TDC key in the flexplate, you'll notice a slight "play", it's not much, but there is play. You now have a choice to touchdown on forward or backward turning side of this play. I touchdown on backward because it'll bias on the "advance" side of TDC. A lot of people do it on the forward touchdown unknowingly which will result on the "retard" side of TDC; and we're talking very minor half a degree at most with this "play". So it's really no big deal. But I find it helpful when after we finish up timing job and hand crank the motor a few revs to re-confirm position; the camshaft locking tools will end up gliding into square position more precisely than if you would have touchdown on the forward side.

5) Glide the sprocket timing disc dowel slab into place and bolt down the slab. Make sure the disc sit square with the towel slab and that the dowel pins are flush and can go all the way into the discs.

6) Insert the dummy timing chain tensioner. Apply 1 or 2 Nm of torque to the dummy.
NOTE:
The factory spec this tensioner to torque at 0.6 Nm, but the lowest setting on my 1/4" drive torque wrench is 1.2 Nm. So I have no way of operating under that digit. However, I've torqued it to 2-Nm plenty of times and it's never failed me or cause any issues. So if you're at this step, don't be afraid to apply more torque than specified. The bottom line is, timing chain has to be tight by this point for you to run the next steps correctly.

7) Torque the camshaft sprocket bolts to 20-Nm. Keep the dummy tensioner in place, remove all timing tool and TDC key from previous steps, hand crank the crankshaft a few rotations and come back to TDC to check if all timing tools and TDC keys line up freely. Repeat this check two more times and end up on your TDC again, make sure you're comfortable with how your timing is dialed in, do not remove your timing tools after the last verification; you'll need these at step 8.

8) After you're comfortable verifying everything with Step 7, with camshaft and disc timing tool still in place, go ahead and perform the 180-degrees TTY turn on both VANOS sprocket bolts. You may elect to keep the TDC key in place while doing this, but it won't matter because the camshaft and sprocket disc locking tools alone will counter your TTY rotation.
NOTE:
When you're doing this TTY torque sequence, try to minimize the frequency of applying the turn. Due to the angle and clearance of the engine bay, you may not be able to go 0-deg to 180-deg in one go, but you can divide it into 2 turns of 90 degrees each turn or 3 turns of 60 degrees each turn. Try to use at least a 24" long 1/2" drive breaker bar on that 16mm socket, that should get you enough mechanical advantage to let you turn it smoothly. As mentioned earlier, the TTY bolt has a yield property that's pre-derived by the BMW engineers. They've empirically specified this exact bolt from its innate stress-strain property. Every more instance you re-apply to turn it, you're breaking up the continuous stress-strain characteristics in this step, and doing it in small turn steps means the bolt is resetting then receiving more tension force to create the clamp force. So keep this in mind and minimize the attempt to turn the bolt in getting that final 180-degree mark. In other words, if it takes you 10 times in small incremental turns and get to 180-degrees, you're doing it wrong. You'll end up with diminishing outcome against what's intended to clamp this bolt down. It may not be a big deal since you're probably going to achieve the ball-park stretch; but the whole is greater than the sum of its parts, so every small step errors will add up in the end. This is also why you don't re-use the same bolt after it has been yielded to 180-degrees from previous installation. Back of my mind while I do engine work I always keep a "cone of uncertainty" model to overlay it to my craftsmanship and accumulate on how I've possibly have small errors during; and if I did too many steps impatiently and don't pay attention to engineered details like the TTY bolts, I consider it a confidence degradation in my work.

9) Take out the dummy tensioner and replace with the new tensioner.

10) Remove all timing tools including the TDC key from flexplate and button everything up, you're ready to go.


The above I believe to be a pretty comprehensive guide to set timing correctly on our N55 motors. I don't know who to reach out to get this stickied, and I'm too lazy to look that way. So one of you who finds this and can help, please assist in sticky'ing this write up. It's not common to come across a weekend warrior braving this attempt; but if any of you gets into a bind like that, you can certainly benefit a lot from my write up.

[Stu Blue Car]

That was a lot of work to write this up. Thank you.
I’ll give an update on my issue. Learn from my trial and error! Lol.
I replaced my eccentric shaft and motor. They were noisy and apparently needed to be changed. After removal they did have marks on the shaft and the plastic bearing holders were brittle.
At this point I checked the timing. It was not quite right. One thing I do that I’m not sure was mentioned is that I remove the #1 spark plug and insert a 1/4 dowel in the hole to rest on the top of the piston. That way i can see when the piston it at tdc too.
After rotating the engine by hand my timing was lagging. It took a while but I realized that my sprockets had play in them. Eventually i took one apart and can see that the hole that the internal pin that locks the vanos gear in place was worn and the pin was loose in the hole. After seeing the price of new vanos sprockets i bought $100 Amazon specials. They lock up well and timed perfect. They didn’t work though. No movement with the engine running. I can read live data. I took them apart and they are well machined but they would not move freely. The new oem ones are ordered and I’ll install them this week. … stay tuned.

[yupetc]

Originally Posted by Stu Blue Car

That was a lot of work to write this up. Thank you.
I’ll give an update on my issue. Learn from my trial and error! Lol.
I replaced my eccentric shaft and motor. They were noisy and apparently needed to be changed. After removal they did have marks on the shaft and the plastic bearing holders were brittle.
At this point I checked the timing. It was not quite right. One thing I do that I’m not sure was mentioned is that I remove the #1 spark plug and insert a 1/4 dowel in the hole to rest on the top of the piston. That way i can see when the piston it at tdc too.
After rotating the engine by hand my timing was lagging. It took a while but I realized that my sprockets had play in them. Eventually i took one apart and can see that the hole that the internal pin that locks the vanos gear in place was worn and the pin was loose in the hole. After seeing the price of new vanos sprockets i bought $100 Amazon specials. They lock up well and timed perfect. They didn’t work though. No movement with the engine running. I can read live data. I took them apart and they are well machined but they would not move freely. The new oem ones are ordered and I’ll install them this week. … stay tuned.

Updated the long 1/4" extension on the #1 piston to tell TDC position. It's a good visual indicator, and I usually use a long zip-tie and it does the job fine, too.

Looks like your issues are within the sprockets. I'm more confident now that once you've put the new sprocket on, you should have great results. Fingers crossed.

[Bmw turbo]

Hi, did you get this problem solved? I have a similar problem having the 130e20 code and 120408 code. I set up my timing correctly, triples checked it, checked the cam position sensors, checked and replaced the solenoids, but still have the same codes. The car goes into limp mode(drive terrain malfunction) within 5 minutes of driving. But other than that, seems to start and idle well. I checked through live data and for the intake cam I get -18 degrees but for the exhaust cam I get +4 degrees. The interesting thing is when the car goes into limp mode, the intake cam reeds 0 degrees on live data( while idling or reving). When I delete the codes, drive terrain malfunction goes away, and the intake cam starts showing -18 degrees again, until I drive again(than the whole process repeats). Does anyone have an idea what could cause this?

[Toondu39]

BMW Turbo

Bonjour , avez vous trouver le problème au défaut 130E20 ? J’ai un problème similaire mais quand je suis dans les données réelle des AAC l’angle échappement varie , mais l’angle admission reste à 0 au ralenti ou en accélérant il ne bouge pas .. une idée ? Capteur déjà échanger mais problème tjr présent
Merci

[Stu Blue Car]

I have not. Sounds similar. I’m good at taking it apart nowthough. I am beginning to think that the red cam position tool is not accurate. Yesterday I took it apart again because i got a .6 nm torque wrench. Everything lined up but i re did it anyway. No change. Very frustrating.

[Stu Blue Car]

Toondu. If the vanos is staying at zero degrees, should you check the solenoid? Maybe try swapping intake and exhaust and see if it follows? Fairly easy to test clean and swap.

[Bmw turbo]

Maybe try a different tool. I heard someone switched to the oem kit and it solved the problem. Let me know what your outcome will be. I’m gonna take apart my intake vanos to see if it has any wear on it and is possibly working properly at idle, but under load something goes wrong🤷‍♂️

[Bmw turbo]

Stu blue car
Did you put the oem sprockets on already?

[Bmw turbo]

Toondu

I don’t really speak Spanish, from what I understood, you where wondering if I fixed my problem because you have something similar going on. I haven’t fixed it yet, but am still working on it. If you can write in more detail (in English) that would help me to help you

[Stu Blue Car]

I have replaced the vanos sprokets with oem. No difference. On start up the car tries to use the vvt but fails.