[AspektUSA]

Originally Posted by Gen13 F36

This is so funny...where is really the difference between the LL and non LL oil .... anyone tested the oil if there is a chemical identitier contain on the oil that you can identify which is which.

Manufacturer approvals are stronger than any industry standard.

Comparing to Porsche vs MB vs BMW vs VW is where the actual game is, and where there is wiggle room and speculation.

E.g. Porsche A40 standard test protocol:

This test will last 203 hours. The engine, and the oil, will go through: - 4 times the simulation of 35 hours of summer driving, - 4 times the simulation of 13.5 hours of winter driving, - 40 cold starts, - 5 times the simulation of 1-hour sessions on the “Nürburgring” racetrack, - 3.5 hours of “running-in” program Measurements on the engine and on the oil will be done at regular intervals, and the following parameter will be taken into account to grant the approval or not: - torque curve (internal friction), - oxidation of the oil, - Piston cleanliness and ring sticking, - Valve train wear protection. Cam & tappet wear must be less than 10 μm. - Engine cleanliness and sludge: after 203 hours, no deposits must be visible. - Bearing wear protection: visual rating according to Porsche in-house method.

Unlike Amsoil, whose MLM oil scam profits go straight into the boats of upper management in BVI, attaining an approval isn't hard or expensive ($5000 / 5ys) if your product is up to snuff and meets the spec you're testing for.

[newyorkgabe]

Jumping back to original topic real quick - did oil change with the OW-30, however now I can't reset my oil change interval clock through the instrument cluster due to a Emergency Call Malfunction error code that I have had for months not but refuse to go to dealer to replace for that nice fee.

I have tried to hit the odometer reset button as soon as I give auxiliary power but it just hasn't been going through due to the error code.

I have been meaning to ask, anyway I can self-perform something to address that code? I've seen videos for replacing the telecommunications battery at the back of the headliner but would I need any coding afterwards?

[Skyhigh]

So “jumping back to the original topic”, you decided to ask how to fix your emergency system low battery issue!? 😁 LOL

Plenty of threads on THAT topic…

[Billfitz]

Originally Posted by newyorkgabe

I have tried to hit the odometer reset button as soon as I give auxiliary power but it just hasn't been going through due to the error code.

You reset the oil change in iDrive>Vehicle info>Vehicle status>Service required. Required maintenance procedures and legally
mandated inspections are displayed. Select an entry to call up detailed information.

[newyorkgabe]

Originally Posted by Billfitz

You reset the oil change in iDrive>Vehicle info>Vehicle status>Service required. Required maintenance procedures and legally
mandated inspections are displayed. Select an entry to call up detailed information.

Wasn't the case for my 340i. Ended up getting lucky on this morning drive, the Emergency Call Malfunction briefly disappeared and I seized the moment lol. Thanks though

[Cytoplasm0671]

After having done a crap ton of research on this via the forums, I've become convinced that Pennzoil Euro Platinum 5W40 is the best. It has the LL-01 standard, and the XW-XX thing (5W30, 0W40, etc) is an American standard that doesn't perfectly apply to German engines, but Pennzoil Euro Platinum 5W-40 has the completely best qualities (highest tolerance of shearing under heat) of any common oil.

[schernov]

Originally Posted by Cytoplasm0671

After having done a crap ton of research on this via the forums, I've become convinced that Pennzoil Euro Platinum 5W40 is the best. It has the LL-01 standard, and the XW-XX thing (5W30, 0W40, etc) is an American standard that doesn't perfectly apply to German engines, but Pennzoil Euro Platinum 5W-40 has the completely best qualities (highest tolerance of shearing under heat) of any common oil.

I think its LL04..

Walmart has it for $26.99 5qt jug.