Washing Car at Home

drf30 · 10-28-2023, 07:55 PM

I just started getting into washing my car at home and so I got a used pressure washer off of FB Marketplace, but it was just my luck that the damn thing literally failed within the first few minutes of me using it. The motor literally seized and is useless now. So I was looking for ways to wash my car at home with the two-bucket method but no pressure washer. I know people always say to “lubricate” the car before applying contact but since I can’t use a foam cannon at the moment what do you all recommend? Should I just hose it down and then start contact washing or what? I appreciate any response to help me out!

PegasusDriver · 10-28-2023, 08:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by drf30

I just started getting into washing my car at home and so I got a used pressure washer off of FB Marketplace, but it was just my luck that the damn thing literally failed within the first few minutes of me using it. The motor literally seized and is useless now. So I was looking for ways to wash my car at home with the two-bucket method but no pressure washer. I know people always say to “lubricate” the car before applying contact but since I can’t use a foam cannon at the moment what do you all recommend? Should I just hose it down and then start contact washing or what? I appreciate any response to help me out!

You could try getting a handheld pump sprayer (foaming or non-foaming) and use a pre-wash concentrate like CarPro Lift or something similar. Let it sit on the surface for a few minutes out of sunlight and then rinse it off before your contact wash. iK and Marolex both make high quality sprayers designed for detailing.

Billfitz · 10-29-2023, 07:30 AM

Foam cannons are highly over rated. It looks cool being able to cover the car with suds in a matter of seconds, but once the suds are there you still have to go through the normal procedure of washing by hand. Pre-rinsing is a must to get large dirt and sand particles off the car, but you don't need a power washer to do that. Pre-rinsing provides all the 'lubricating' necessary. What you need to keep lubricated is the sponge.

Skyhigh · 10-29-2023, 12:59 PM

It sounds like you have misunderstood what foaming is all about.

Foaming is the first stage of washing - you foam (using a power washer or a pump-sprayer), you let it do its thing for 3-5 minutes and then you rinse, ideally with a power washer! Depending on the foam you use, this, in combination with a power washer, can get up to 90% of the dirt off your car! And this is exactly what foaming is all about! It is NOT for lubrication!!

Lubrication comes from the shampoo in your bucket and a soaked- enough wash mitt! Plus the fact that the car would already be wet from the rinsing. But you NEVER just foam and start hand-washing without first properly rinsing (ideally under pressure).

So to answer your question - if your power washer is temporarily unavailable, I'd use a pump-sprayer and then rinse thoroughly with a hose. Then you carry on with the 2-bucket wash carefully, with frequent cleaning of the wash mitt. Don't forget a dirt trap in your bucket(s)

Good luck!

P.s. Please don't use a sponge...! Use a micro-fiber wash mitt or a micro-fiber-covered sponge. Bare sponges is what our grandparents (or my sloppy colleague) use together with a dish-washer detergent to wash their cars.....

drf30 · 10-29-2023, 07:46 PM

I appreciate everyone’s replies to this thread thus far. This concept of “washing at home” is definitely starting to make more sense now. I washed my car today first by rinsing the entire car with a hose spray nozzle, then cleaning the wheels and rinsing with wheel cleaner, and then finally doing my contact wash with the two-bucket method. To finish off, I rinsed off the soap and then used Turtle Wax wax and dry as a drying agent to dry the car. I was overall pleased with the results with the exception of a few things:

1) There were some areas, mainly on the bottom of the car near the bumpers and fenders, where dirt was trapped and wasn’t coming off even after the contact wash and rinse. How do I get those parts of debris and dirt off? I have the same question regarding bugs and things on the front bumper of the car that seemingly don’t come off.

2) I was using some microfiber towels I got from Walmart to dry the car but they felt like they were causing friction against the surface of the car and didn’t feel smooth. Any drying towel recommendations?

3) Overall, what is a good starring set of detailing tools and items for the car in terms of detailing wheels, interior, exterior, etc?

Thanks everyone!

Skyhigh · 10-30-2023, 03:48 AM

1) For those areas, especially if they have not been thoroughly cleaned before or typically in the spring - you need a tar remover. You typically spray it after the foaming phase, let it sit for 3-5 mind and rinse. You can of course also use it during the hand-wash when you discover such areas, just don't forget to rinse after a few min before continuing with the hand wash.
What you should also have readily available is Iron remover. It is applied the same way as the tar remover. It will dissolve most of the stubbern iron particles which typically attach behind the wheels (brake dust...) and on the trunk / rear-bumper. I typically use iron remover once a year, after the winter. tar remover is used on demand, but also typically after the winter when it is mostly needed and 1-2 times in addition during the year, as required. My point is - they are both not part of the regular wash but used as needed.

2) There are MANY car detailing communities and test reviews. You can look there for recommendations. Liquid Elements Silverback XL and Liquid Elements Orange Baby XL are two of those with excellent reputation based on tests.

3) This is a tough one to answer shortly. It really depends on your level of involvement. I would recommend adding new things to your artillery as you go along, based on your needs and desires. As an absolute minimum - power-washer, quality MF mitt (preferably at least 2), quality MF multi-purpose towels, quality MF drying towel(s), foam, shampoo, tar remover, iron remover. For the interior you need an all-purpose-cleaner suitable also for displays and sensitive surfaces, an ultra-SOFT, quality MF towel dedicated for use on screens and sensitive surfaces, something for the trim (trim cleaner / trim restorer / etc.). If you have leather seats - that's a topic on its own as well, but even alone for the steering wheel - leather wipes with conditioner as a minimum, ideally some leather balm to apply annually. And at the end - to wash all MF towels and mitts - a MF washing detergent (no, you do not wash them as you wash your clothes!).

A very large domain, car detailing

But a good hobby too

MEN54 · 10-30-2023, 08:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Skyhigh

It sounds like you have misunderstood what foaming is all about.

Foaming is the first stage of washing - you foam (using a power washer or a pump-sprayer), you let it do its thing for 3-5 minutes and then you rinse, ideally with a power washer! Depending on the foam you use, this, in combination with a power washer, can get up to 90% of the dirt off your car! And this is exactly what foaming is all about! It is NOT for lubrication!!

Lubrication comes from the shampoo in your bucket and a soaked- enough wash mitt! Plus the fact that the car would already be wet from the rinsing. But you NEVER just foam and start hand-washing without first properly rinsing (ideally under pressure).

So to answer your question - if your power washer is temporarily unavailable, I'd use a pump-sprayer and then rinse thoroughly with a hose. Then you carry on with the 2-bucket wash carefully, with frequent cleaning of the wash mitt. Don't forget a dirt trap in your bucket(s)

Good luck!

P.s. Please don't use a sponge...! Use a micro-fiber wash mitt or a micro-fiber-covered sponge. Bare sponges is what our grandparents (or my sloppy colleague) use together with a dish-washer detergent to wash their cars.....

All above are correct, a tip for everyone, I use 6 wash mitts to avoid swirls

Skyhigh · 10-30-2023, 08:39 AM

That's maybe a bit excessive but of course can be done

I use 2, whereas one is usually dedicated to the high-risk areas (lower part of the vehicle). Dirt traps in the buckets are also a good idea.

MEN54 · 10-30-2023, 08:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Skyhigh

That's maybe a bit excessive but of course can be done

I use 2, whereas one is usually dedicated to the high-risk areas (lower part of the vehicle). Dirt traps in the buckets are also a good idea.

Correct, I use two buckets, portable battery operated power washer, foam gun and 6 wash mitts lol, and two drying towels, might be buying leaf blower, my car has ceramic coating and it will be easy to dry using leaf blower.

MEN54 · 10-30-2023, 08:45 AM

Skyhigh · 10-30-2023, 09:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MEN54

Correct, I use two buckets, portable battery operated power washer, foam gun and 6 wash mitts lol, and two drying towels, might be buying leaf blower, my car has ceramic coating and it will be easy to dry using leaf blower.

Leaf blower will not do it. It is not powerful enough and only cold-air operated. Believe me - I have tried

Sold it afterwards.
Recommend a car dryer such as BigBoi (https://ibigboi.com/)
I am quite happy with mine. It takes much longer than using towels but it is 100% safe for the paint and it is fun, especially in the winter.

I apply a towel only on the windows since it speeds things up and there is no risk of scratches.

MEN54 · 10-30-2023, 10:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Skyhigh

Leaf blower will not do it. It is not powerful enough and only cold-air operated. Believe me - I have tried

Sold it afterwards.
Recommend a car dryer such as BigBoi (https://ibigboi.com/)
I am quite happy with mine. It takes much longer than using towels but it is 100% safe for the paint and it is fun, especially in the winter.

I apply a towel only on the windows since it speeds things up and there is no risk of scratches.

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/k8cmCzC-dOs
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/FS5Wk1RtR6g

Skyhigh · 10-30-2023, 10:17 AM

Feel free to give it a try

not saying it doesn’t work at all, it is just way too slow and inefficient. There are tools made for that. And hot air is very nice in the winter too.

P.s. both my cars are waxed and quite hydrophobic too.

Billfitz · 10-30-2023, 11:25 AM

I'll use my leaf blower to get rid of most of the water that remains after my initial rinsing, but it doesn't get all of it off, and wouldn't replace drying by hand with microfiber towels anyway, as there would still be water spots. After rinsing and blowing I use Optimum No Rinse. I use four or five towels. When the first wash towel is dirty I use the first drying towel as the second wash towel, and so forth.

As for a cordless pressure washer, I have this. It can use a garden hose for water supply or a bucket with the included siphon hose. It also shares the battery with other 24v Sun Joe tools. If you already have one of them buy the bare washer option. https://www.amazon.com/Sun-Joe-24V-P...7-857e17e03685

10-28-2023, 07:55 PM	#1
drf30 Speed Racer 29 Rep 68 Posts Drives: 2013 F30 335i M-Sport Join Date: Jul 2023 Location: Atlanta, Georgia iTrader: (1) Garage List 2013 BMW 335i [10.00]	Washing Car at Home I just started getting into washing my car at home and so I got a used pressure washer off of FB Marketplace, but it was just my luck that the damn thing literally failed within the first few minutes of me using it. The motor literally seized and is useless now. So I was looking for ways to wash my car at home with the two-bucket method but no pressure washer. I know people always say to “lubricate” the car before applying contact but since I can’t use a foam cannon at the moment what do you all recommend? Should I just hose it down and then start contact washing or what? I appreciate any response to help me out!
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10-29-2023, 07:30 AM	#3
Billfitz Lieutenant General 8245 Rep 16,089 Posts Drives: '15 328iX GT Join Date: Jan 2015 Location: New Hampshire iTrader: (0)	Foam cannons are highly over rated. It looks cool being able to cover the car with suds in a matter of seconds, but once the suds are there you still have to go through the normal procedure of washing by hand. Pre-rinsing is a must to get large dirt and sand particles off the car, but you don't need a power washer to do that. Pre-rinsing provides all the 'lubricating' necessary. What you need to keep lubricated is the sponge.
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10-29-2023, 12:59 PM	#4
Skyhigh Brigadier General 1890 Rep 3,877 Posts Drives: BMW F36 Join Date: Apr 2018 Location: Europe iTrader: (0)	It sounds like you have misunderstood what foaming is all about. Foaming is the first stage of washing - you foam (using a power washer or a pump-sprayer), you let it do its thing for 3-5 minutes and then you rinse, ideally with a power washer! Depending on the foam you use, this, in combination with a power washer, can get up to 90% of the dirt off your car! And this is exactly what foaming is all about! It is NOT for lubrication!! Lubrication comes from the shampoo in your bucket and a soaked- enough wash mitt! Plus the fact that the car would already be wet from the rinsing. But you NEVER just foam and start hand-washing without first properly rinsing (ideally under pressure). So to answer your question - if your power washer is temporarily unavailable, I'd use a pump-sprayer and then rinse thoroughly with a hose. Then you carry on with the 2-bucket wash carefully, with frequent cleaning of the wash mitt. Don't forget a dirt trap in your bucket(s) Good luck! P.s. Please don't use a sponge...! Use a micro-fiber wash mitt or a micro-fiber-covered sponge. Bare sponges is what our grandparents (or my sloppy colleague) use together with a dish-washer detergent to wash their cars..... __________________ "Large increases in cost with questionable increases in performance can be tolerated only in cars and women."
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10-29-2023, 07:46 PM	#5
drf30 Speed Racer 29 Rep 68 Posts Drives: 2013 F30 335i M-Sport Join Date: Jul 2023 Location: Atlanta, Georgia iTrader: (1) Garage List 2013 BMW 335i [10.00]	I appreciate everyone’s replies to this thread thus far. This concept of “washing at home” is definitely starting to make more sense now. I washed my car today first by rinsing the entire car with a hose spray nozzle, then cleaning the wheels and rinsing with wheel cleaner, and then finally doing my contact wash with the two-bucket method. To finish off, I rinsed off the soap and then used Turtle Wax wax and dry as a drying agent to dry the car. I was overall pleased with the results with the exception of a few things: 1) There were some areas, mainly on the bottom of the car near the bumpers and fenders, where dirt was trapped and wasn’t coming off even after the contact wash and rinse. How do I get those parts of debris and dirt off? I have the same question regarding bugs and things on the front bumper of the car that seemingly don’t come off. 2) I was using some microfiber towels I got from Walmart to dry the car but they felt like they were causing friction against the surface of the car and didn’t feel smooth. Any drying towel recommendations? 3) Overall, what is a good starring set of detailing tools and items for the car in terms of detailing wheels, interior, exterior, etc? Thanks everyone!
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10-30-2023, 03:48 AM	#6
Skyhigh Brigadier General 1890 Rep 3,877 Posts Drives: BMW F36 Join Date: Apr 2018 Location: Europe iTrader: (0)	1) For those areas, especially if they have not been thoroughly cleaned before or typically in the spring - you need a tar remover. You typically spray it after the foaming phase, let it sit for 3-5 mind and rinse. You can of course also use it during the hand-wash when you discover such areas, just don't forget to rinse after a few min before continuing with the hand wash. What you should also have readily available is Iron remover. It is applied the same way as the tar remover. It will dissolve most of the stubbern iron particles which typically attach behind the wheels (brake dust...) and on the trunk / rear-bumper. I typically use iron remover once a year, after the winter. tar remover is used on demand, but also typically after the winter when it is mostly needed and 1-2 times in addition during the year, as required. My point is - they are both not part of the regular wash but used as needed. 2) There are MANY car detailing communities and test reviews. You can look there for recommendations. Liquid Elements Silverback XL and Liquid Elements Orange Baby XL are two of those with excellent reputation based on tests. 3) This is a tough one to answer shortly. It really depends on your level of involvement. I would recommend adding new things to your artillery as you go along, based on your needs and desires. As an absolute minimum - power-washer, quality MF mitt (preferably at least 2), quality MF multi-purpose towels, quality MF drying towel(s), foam, shampoo, tar remover, iron remover. For the interior you need an all-purpose-cleaner suitable also for displays and sensitive surfaces, an ultra-SOFT, quality MF towel dedicated for use on screens and sensitive surfaces, something for the trim (trim cleaner / trim restorer / etc.). If you have leather seats - that's a topic on its own as well, but even alone for the steering wheel - leather wipes with conditioner as a minimum, ideally some leather balm to apply annually. And at the end - to wash all MF towels and mitts - a MF washing detergent (no, you do not wash them as you wash your clothes!). A very large domain, car detailing But a good hobby too __________________ "Large increases in cost with questionable increases in performance can be tolerated only in cars and women."
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10-30-2023, 08:39 AM	#8
Skyhigh Brigadier General 1890 Rep 3,877 Posts Drives: BMW F36 Join Date: Apr 2018 Location: Europe iTrader: (0)	That's maybe a bit excessive but of course can be done I use 2, whereas one is usually dedicated to the high-risk areas (lower part of the vehicle). Dirt traps in the buckets are also a good idea. __________________ "Large increases in cost with questionable increases in performance can be tolerated only in cars and women."
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10-30-2023, 08:45 AM	#10
MEN54 Lieutenant 237 Rep 481 Posts Drives: 2017 BMW 330 xi Join Date: Mar 2019 Location: New York iTrader: (1)
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10-30-2023, 10:17 AM	#13
Skyhigh Brigadier General 1890 Rep 3,877 Posts Drives: BMW F36 Join Date: Apr 2018 Location: Europe iTrader: (0)	Feel free to give it a try not saying it doesn’t work at all, it is just way too slow and inefficient. There are tools made for that. And hot air is very nice in the winter too. P.s. both my cars are waxed and quite hydrophobic too. __________________ "Large increases in cost with questionable increases in performance can be tolerated only in cars and women."
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10-30-2023, 11:25 AM	#14
Billfitz Lieutenant General 8245 Rep 16,089 Posts Drives: '15 328iX GT Join Date: Jan 2015 Location: New Hampshire iTrader: (0)	I'll use my leaf blower to get rid of most of the water that remains after my initial rinsing, but it doesn't get all of it off, and wouldn't replace drying by hand with microfiber towels anyway, as there would still be water spots. After rinsing and blowing I use Optimum No Rinse. I use four or five towels. When the first wash towel is dirty I use the first drying towel as the second wash towel, and so forth. As for a cordless pressure washer, I have this. It can use a garden hose for water supply or a bucket with the included siphon hose. It also shares the battery with other 24v Sun Joe tools. If you already have one of them buy the bare washer option. https://www.amazon.com/Sun-Joe-24V-P...7-857e17e03685
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