[Ryanfknt]

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2014 ewg 335i Xdrive
130104 VANOS intake: control fault, camshaft stuck
120408 Boost pressure control: shutdown as a follow up reaction

i was told "Pull the rear most intake cam cap. If it's scored, you'll need a new cylinder head. The cam is dragging in the journal and oil pressure isnt enough to advanve or retard the cam."

So, i did. i pulled the rear most intake cam cap. it is pretty smooth. there is 1 line on the journal/cap that i can just barely catch my fingernail on.

is this really enough to warrant needing to replace the entire head? is there any other options i can try? can i lightly wet sand it with 2000 grit? IS THIS REALLY THE ISSUE

is this happening because there is too much friction between the cam and the journals? or is it lack of oil pressure due to oil seeping through the imperfections between the cam and the journals? the imperfections are barely there / nonexistent!!

below is some diagnostics ive performed, or skip to the pictures below if you dont care.

-Intake camshaft spread should be 120 and exhaust camshaft spread should be 115.
-Using bimmerlink to log the spreads My camshaft spreads are spot on +-1 degree, for about 5 seconds. Then my intake side increases to 137.9 and stays stuck at that exact number until I reset adaptations.

-with both vanos solenoid harnesses disconnected, both spreads stay right around 115/120 without issues. so the oil pressure provided by the vanos solenoid is throwing something off.

-I replaced both cam sensors, swapped all the sensors back and forth, swapped the solenoids back and forth. Nothing changes; codes do not switch to exaust side
-both vanos solenoids have been cleaned and they click in and out flawlessly when applying 12v and ground to them.

[LA1Z24]

That journal is fine.

[Ryanfknt]

Originally Posted by LA1Z24

That journal is fine.

ily

[LA1Z24]

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1H9O...ew?usp=sharing, https://drive.google.com/file/d/1pMe...ew?usp=sharing

These 2 articles from identifix are for your code. Very simple diagnosis.

Is the oil filter cap intact? The inner cage is not broken?

[Ryanfknt]

Originally Posted by LA1Z24

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1H9O...ew?usp=sharing, https://drive.google.com/file/d/1pMe...ew?usp=sharing

These 2 articles from identifix are for your code. Very simple diagnosis.

Is the oil filter cap intact? The inner cage is not broken?

Oil filter cap is intact. Both orings are good.
Oil pressure reads about 39psi at idle, 60psi around 4k rpm’s.

I’m currently doing an I-Level software update using ISTA because I found this article https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2014/SB-10053485-8362.pdf
It doesn’t mention the n55 motor but it says with an f30 with this CEL code, updating the software can fix the issue.

[Ryanfknt]

When I did the timing, the vanos adjusters (the top 2 timing chain sprockets) were aftermarket with no signs of EIN and AUS scripture on them.. I am pretty confident that I did not reverse the two upon when I set timing. The car ran fine with these for 30k miles so I really don’t think they would be at fault.

Would a faulty vanos adjuster cause this? Does this part even go bad? Idk if that’s a possibility or if I somehow managed to swap the exhaust and intake vanos sprocket would that cause this? I was really careful to not do that, but with them not having the EIN and AUS scripture on them… idk I guess it could be possible.

[LA1Z24]

Originally Posted by Ryanfknt

When I did the timing, the vanos adjusters (the top 2 timing chain sprockets) were aftermarket with no signs of EIN and AUS scripture on them.. I am pretty confident that I did not reverse the two upon when I set timing. The car ran fine with these for 30k miles so I really don’t think they would be at fault.

Would a faulty vanos adjuster cause this? Does this part even go bad? Idk if that’s a possibility or if I somehow managed to swap the exhaust and intake vanos sprocket would that cause this? I was really careful to not do that, but with them not having the EIN and AUS scripture on them… idk I guess it could be possible.

Yes they can. This part is considered Mission Critical. An aftermarket part should never be used here.

[Ryanfknt]

Thank you for the input LA

$1200+ for a set of oem vanos adjusters/sprockets.. just to figure out thats not the issue and that I need a new head because of scored cam journals/caps? Ima test out a cheaper route first.
Instead I bought 2 different sets off amazon; $90 for one and $135 for the other.. I’ll choose my favorite and return the other I guess

[Ryanfknt]

Well it turns out I installed the vanos adjusters on the wrong sides. I figured the old ones were junk anyways so I pulled it apart / broke the plastic cover. Turns out they were both oem! The aus/ein scripture etc is written on the plastic covers but it is so hard to see I had to use a specific light at a certain angle to see the writing on it..

So after breaking the cap on the oem vanos adjusters, I guess I am going to install the aftermarket ones lol. They have the scripture written on them so I’ll report back on how they work out 🤦*♂️

[acarpenter86]

Any luck? I’ve got an 0304 (exhaust cam stuck) but my engine runs perfectly smooth.

I might try resetting adaptations and the software update since those are “easy”.

[LA1Z24]

Adaptions are not going to cause the camshaft to stick. That code sets when vanos commands the cam to do something, and the cam does not do it.

Adaptions have nothing to do with this code. Something is broken in the engine. Things can seem to work fine but still be broken. I bet dollars to donuts you have reduced power, increased fuel consumption and emissions.

[acarpenter86]

Originally Posted by LA1Z24

Adaptions are not going to cause the camshaft to stick. That code sets when vanos commands the cam to do something, and the cam does not do it.

Adaptions have nothing to do with this code. Something is broken in the engine. Things can seem to work fine but still be broken. I bet dollars to donuts you have reduced power, increased fuel consumption and emissions.

Sure. I understand. Someone else just said they had a persistent Vanos code that went away not just after solenoids but it came back and they had to reset adaptations. I’m sure there is maybe a .5% chance it works but it’s faster than pulling the valve cover again.

Do you (or anyone) happen to know what degrees are normal for the Vanos to be at while running? I’ll have to get my bmw laptop for the actual German word but it’s under DME and you can do a live view. Mine were 8 and 11 degrees which seem high so I’m thinking timing.

[Ryanfknt]

UPDATE:

I had the vanos adjusters / sprockets - reversed. I actually broke the black cap off the oem one like an idiot because i wanted to take it apart and look at it. Then i bought a china set off amazon and installed those. codes were gone but the car was not running right. Then i pulled the valve cover back off and set timing again using the oem sprockets (one without the cap on it - fuck it.) RUNS PERFECT no more codes.