[danb1979]

[QUOTE=ABall;30818903]

Originally Posted by danb1979

The road trip and week away to the Highlands got cut short unfortunately; we all ended up with a rotten chest infection and it's still trying to wipe me out now...

Should have been back tomorrow, but we came home Wednesday and todays the first day I've left the house (albeit to clean both the cars) That's about as much fresh air as I can take without coughing myself inside out

Anyways; Racing Jazz fully washed and cleaned inside & out; then onto the touring...

Poor bloody thing got covered in all sorts of salty shite on the M6/M74/M80/A9 etc... It's been deep cleaned inside & then it's had a full BH snowfoam session, I've gone over the panels with GTechniq W6 Iron & Fallout remover, rinsed, snowfoamed again, rinsed, hand washed, rinsed, AGs Polar Seal applied and then towel dried...

Tyres treated with Gyeon Q2 tyre gel and parked it up the drive, out of harms way







Oh where did you get that boot liner? been looking for something like that, its a good fit!

eBay (comes from Germany):

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/173560991...Bk9SR_iV_cWiYw

It is a very good fit; fits better than the OEM BMW one I bought a few months back TBH as it fills all the corners etc

I've kept the eBay one as it comes in handy to cover the backs of the seats if/when I have them folded down for tip runs or when we go camping etc and I want to protect the interior

[ABall]

[QUOTE=danb1979;30819299]

Originally Posted by ABall

eBay (comes from Germany):

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/173560991...Bk9SR_iV_cWiYw

It is a very good fit; fits better than the OEM BMW one I bought a few months back TBH as it fills all the corners etc

I've kept the eBay one as it comes in handy to cover the backs of the seats if/when I have them folded down for tip runs or when we go camping etc and I want to protect the interior

Many thanks, I was hoping they did one for other models but unfortunately not, lots of other models, just not mine.

[danb1979]

[QUOTE=ABall;30820438]

Originally Posted by danb1979

Many thanks, I was hoping they did one for other models but unfortunately not, lots of other models, just not mine.

Which BMW 340i do you have?

Popped it on your other post as well. But this is that boot liner for your F30

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/173925076...Bk9SR6SRnIKjYw

[ABall]

[QUOTE=danb1979;30821195]

Originally Posted by ABall

Which BMW 340i do you have?

Popped it on your other post as well. But this is that boot liner for your F30

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/173925076...Bk9SR6SRnIKjYw

Very good of you to find that thanks, I purchased it straight away! I spent ages on google. I dont even have the car in my hands yet.....

[ABall]

[QUOTE=danb1979;30821195]

Originally Posted by ABall

Which BMW 340i do you have?

Popped it on your other post as well. But this is that boot liner for your F30

Thanks again for this, should of taken a pic but i was too exited driving the car around. The mat is a fantastic fit, I went shopping and through a case of beer in the boot, the best thing about the mat...... the beer doesnt slide around the boot on it, worth it just for that!

[Leeg1633]

Originally Posted by danb1979

Thanks; I do like the more even wheel/arch gap now. It makes my OCD happy haha

Re power; think it's 218bhp; so up from around 190'something on the 320Ds...

It'll be interesting to see what it makes when I get it remapped next month (after I've had the ZF8 serviced and added the XHP map to the box)

I've said it before and I'll say it again... that xhp map is worth every penny. Cars looking good, sits nice. You'll see a massive visual improvement once you get the spacers on. I went 12mm front and 15mm rear, to be honest I think 10mm front would have been enough.

[danb1979]

Originally Posted by Leeg1633

I've said it before and I'll say it again... that xhp map is worth every penny. Cars looking good, sits nice. You'll see a massive visual improvement once you get the spacers on. I went 12mm front and 15mm rear, to be honest I think 10mm front would have been enough.

Cheers - its definitely on the list. Just need to be able to drive first & then I'll get the car booked in for its ZF8 service and then I'll do the XHP remap

Yup; I've run a stud conversion and spacers on every BMW since 2012 and they make a superb difference; offer a better turn-in feel too...

I've only ever run 12-15mm and never wider; they've been spot on s hoping the 12mm spacers will offer the right kick out for the 18x8 wheels I'm running

I'll get them fitted as soon as I'm able to move more

[danb1979]

Finally; 1st time in nearly 3 weeks, been able to give the BMW a wash (albeit contactless)... Not been able to touch the car since my op; but able to move more freely now and should be fine for driving in the next day or two...

It needed a wash; grey with just cack from the skies; it's been sat on trickle since 17th!



It'll be filthy again in no time; but it keeps my OCD happy

I was going to get the ZF service done before we head up to The Highlands on 11th Feb but haven't got the time now so it's booked in for when we get back and then I'll look to get it remapped and the box mapped too I think...

[Alscoob]

Originally Posted by danb1979

.

I've only ever run 12-15mm and never wider; they've been spot on s hoping the 12mm spacers will offer the right kick out for the 18x8 wheels I'm running

I'll get them fitted as soon as I'm able to move more

I used 12mm alround on both my F31's and found it to be spot on. For me 15mm on the rear would have been too much, yes it would have made it flush with the arch, but to have a little inset looked better to me, more subtle. Thats on 19" 442's with 255x35 rears

[danb1979]

Originally Posted by Alscoob

I used 12mm alround on both my F31's and found it to be spot on. For me 15mm on the rear would have been too much, yes it would have made it flush with the arch, but to have a little inset looked better to me, more subtle. Thats on 19" 442's with 255x35 rears

Attachment 3376843

Perfic as Pa Larkin would say

I've 12mm spacers and the stud conversion in the garage; so will get them fitted as soon as I can

[martin10chk]

Originally Posted by danb1979

Perfic as Pa Larkin would say

I've 12mm spacers and the stud conversion in the garage; so will get them fitted as soon as I can

Just curious - why the stud conversion?

[danb1979]

Originally Posted by martin10chk

Just curious - why the stud conversion?

A much better alternative to longer bolts; tightens down thew wheel/spacer from both sides and not just one

But also makes removal of the wheel/refitting of the wheel much easier too; if you've issues like me and take the wheels off regularly to clean them properly

[crAbb]

Really enjoyed reading through this thread!

[martin10chk]

Originally Posted by danb1979

A much better alternative to longer bolts; tightens down thew wheel/spacer from both sides and not just one

But also makes removal of the wheel/refitting of the wheel much easier too; if you've issues like me and take the wheels off regularly to clean them properly

Thanks Dan. Well I never! My naive thought was that one threaded 'joint' must be better than two. But not the case, and this must be a rare example where it doesn't seem to be up for debate. Stud and nut is simply better. So why do BMW and most European manufacturers opt for bolts? Just to save a few pence it seems.

I can actually add another advantage of studs and nuts. Since BMW swapped over to (ridiculously!) fine threads on the 14 1.25 standard it is surprisingly easy to crossthread a wheel bolt. And if that happens the only proper recourse is to replace a hub at considerable hassle and expense. (ask me how I know ). So I wish I had known this sooner!. I swap wheels out pretty regularly on the summer / winter tyres.

[danb1979]

Originally Posted by martin10chk

Thanks Dan. Well I never! My naive thought was that one threaded 'joint' must be better than two. But not the case, and this must be a rare example where it doesn't seem to be up for debate. Stud and nut is simply better. So why do BMW and most European manufacturers opt for bolts? Just to save a few pence it seems.

I can actually add another advantage of studs and nuts. Since BMW swapped over to (ridiculously!) fine threads on the 14 1.25 standard it is surprisingly easy to crossthread a wheel bolt. And if that happens the only proper recourse is to replace a hub at considerable hassle and expense. (ask me how I know ). So I wish I had known this sooner!. I swap wheels out pretty regularly on the summer / winter tyres.

Yup; been there/done that on my previous F01, but fortunately I caught it very early and used my pals helicoil tool to clean the threads; fitted studs after that too and never any issues




And for me, as said above; because I swap from summers, to winters, back to summers etc and take the wheels off to clean them quite often; it makes my life easier

[danb1979]

Originally Posted by crAbb

Really enjoyed reading through this thread!

Thank you

[TurboWeasel]

Originally Posted by martin10chk

Thanks Dan. Well I never! My naive thought was that one threaded 'joint' must be better than two. But not the case, and this must be a rare example where it doesn't seem to be up for debate. Stud and nut is simply better. So why do BMW and most European manufacturers opt for bolts? Just to save a few pence it seems.

I can actually add another advantage of studs and nuts. Since BMW swapped over to (ridiculously!) fine threads on the 14 1.25 standard it is surprisingly easy to crossthread a wheel bolt. And if that happens the only proper recourse is to replace a hub at considerable hassle and expense. (ask me how I know ). So I wish I had known this sooner!. I swap wheels out pretty regularly on the summer / winter tyres.

Stud+nut is better for mounting turbos and cylinder heads as well.

Two threaded interfaces to work loose from heat cycling vs one. There is no mechanical advantage of one method over the other in terms of strength though. European car makers just favour bolts over studs + nuts as it removes one threaded interface from their inventory, so it's purely for profit as you say. If you don't have buy in a billion nuts, the savings add up.

Personally I have no issue with wheel bolts but I can see the appeal of studs. Another advantage is the studs are static and only the nut wears out, whereas constantly changing wheels with bolts wears out the threads in the hubs as well as the bolts, and as you've found, increases the risk of a cross thread!

[dholdi2]

Mmmm, jury is out with me.
A few statements I'm struggling with are :-

A stud and nut tightens from both sides ? How can this be, the stud is static and the nut moves down it, the same as the head of the bolt, so both are clamping from the outside.

Studs are static and only the nut wears out ? How can this be, the threaded hole in the hub is static in relation to the bolt as well.

Maybe its the engineer in me, but I cant see a thread in either the hub or on the bolt wearing out through removal and replacement as long as care is taken not to crossthread or over tighten them.

I do get the bit about it being easier to mount/dismount the wheel as especially with the 370mm brakes its easy to drop the wheel onto the caliper when removing, but I dont think normal length studs will avoid this.

[Leeg1633]

Originally Posted by dholdi2

Mmmm, jury is out with me.
A few statements I'm struggling with are :-

A stud and nut tightens from both sides ? How can this be, the stud is static and the nut moves down it, the same as the head of the bolt, so both are clamping from the outside.

Studs are static and only the nut wears out ? How can this be, the threaded hole in the hub is static in relation to the bolt as well.

Maybe its the engineer in me, but I cant see a thread in either the hub or on the bolt wearing out through removal and replacement as long as care is taken not to crossthread or over tighten them.

I do get the bit about it being easier to mount/dismount the wheel as especially with the 370mm brakes its easy to drop the wheel onto the caliper when removing, but I dont think normal length studs will avoid this.

I have no input on this but I do enjoy these types of discussions on here

[danb1979]

I went off some info I rad on various forums about studs vs wheel bolts; more so with spacers and they do appear to be a better option

My motorsport mechanic pals recommend them too; more so those who track their cars (obviously they help a lot with the removal/refitting of wheels etc)

I'm not an engineer; I'm not going to pretend to be, but they're my preference now and have run them for years with zero issues

If I wasn't going to run spacers; I'd more than likely not bother with them

[tj_g]

I did the same - cross threaded a bolt when changing over to my winters last year.
Unfortunately it was getting dark and I had to get on the road, so I spent another hour grinding down another OEM bolt and threaded it through from the rear of the hub to self tap it back straight. Then temporarily fitted a longer bolt I’d just removed along with the spacers. Thankfully avoided disaster, just.

[TurboWeasel]

Originally Posted by dholdi2

Studs are static and only the nut wears out ? How can this be, the threaded hole in the hub is static in relation to the bolt as well.

Maybe its the engineer in me, but I cant see a thread in either the hub or on the bolt wearing out through removal and replacement as long as care is taken not to crossthread or over tighten them.

I suppose if you're a race team swapping wheels regularly, a worn out nut is quicker to replace than a worn out hub as the threads in the hub are never touched. You're right though, every threaded interface is subject to some level of wear and vulnerable to abuse/cross threading. It's just another preference thing at the end of the day.

I did actually have to replace the hubs on one of my old VWs due to frequent maintenance and wheel swaps etc. Get a bit of grit in a bolt thread from laying them on the ground and it can quickly gaul out the threads. It would have been easier (and considerably cheaper!) to replace the studs and nuts in that situation.

Anyway, most of us are careful and I wire brush the bolts now, and use a tiny amount of grease on the bolt to prevent rust seizures.