[jamiem1987]

Originally Posted by teaston

I reused the original sensor, it’s fine as long as the old one hasn’t started to wear.

Copper grease on back and end of pads, and on the retaining pins will work fine.

My Pagids came chamfered and slotted.

Brilliant thanks ever so much for the help.

These are the pads i got, are they exactly the same as the ones you ordered? If so I'll stick them straight in and all being well all should be okay.

https://www.eurocarparts.com/search/101111118

Thanks again

[teaston]

Originally Posted by jamiem1987

Brilliant thanks ever so much for the help.

These are the pads i got, are they exactly the same as the ones you ordered? If so I'll stick them straight in and all being well all should be okay.

https://www.eurocarparts.com/search/101111118

Thanks again

Yes they’re the ones. As mentioned above they do seem to get slightly small for the calipers after a few thousand miles so I put the ebc shims on them overlapped onto one of the ends so they don’t clunk when changing from forwards to reverse and vice versa.

[jamiem1987]

Originally Posted by teaston

Yes they’re the ones. As mentioned above they do seem to get slightly small for the calipers after a few thousand miles so I put the ebc shims on them overlapped onto one of the ends so they don’t clunk when changing from forwards to reverse and vice versa.

Cheers, I notice the previous poster with the clunk was using feredo pads, are you saying I should expect to have the same clunk with the pagids after a few thousand miles? Did you have it and was it really noticeable?

Thanks

[teaston]

Originally Posted by jamiem1987

Cheers, I notice the previous poster with the clunk was using feredo pads, are you saying I should expect to have the same clunk with the pagids after a few thousand miles? Did you have it and was it really noticeable?

Thanks

Yes I’ve had the same with my Pagid front pads which I fixed with the shims, and now my TRW rear pads that I need to shim when I get time.

[jamiem1987]

Brilliant thanks again for all of your help.

Do you know anywhere I could pick up some shims tomorrow? I'm guessing high street stores such as halfords wouldn't sell these self cut shims. I may just try without and see how it is in a few months time if I can't get hold of any!

Failing that i’ve read online a lot of people using Pagids on m3’s mention they use the backing plate of the original oe pads and this fixes the clunking issue, did you notice if this was do-able? many mention to use a heatgun to separate the metal backing from the oe pad than transfer it to the pagid as its slightly thicker than the backing plate that comes on the Pagids!

[teaston]

Originally Posted by jamiem1987

Brilliant thanks again for all of your help.

Do you know anywhere I could pick up some shims tomorrow? I'm guessing high street stores such as halfords wouldn't sell these self cut shims. I may just try without and see how it is in a few months time if I can't get hold of any!

Failing that i’ve read online a lot of people using Pagids on m3’s mention they use the backing plate of the original oe pads and this fixes the clunking issue, did you notice if this was do-able? many mention to use a heatgun to separate the metal backing from the oe pad than transfer it to the pagid as its slightly thicker than the backing plate that comes on the Pagids!

No I got mine from ebay.

I hadn’t heard about that method, sounds like quite a faff though. Just stick the pads in and see how they go.

[Sasquartch]

I replaced my pads and discs with Pagid and just used a bit of copper grease on the backs and have had no issues

I have the larger 330mm non-M sport disks but I'd imagine the design is basically the same

If you've changed discs and pads before you wont have any issues, as long as you have a decent 8mm hex key its all pretty obvious

[teaston]

Originally Posted by Sasquartch

I replaced my pads and discs with Pagid and just used a bit of copper grease on the backs and have had no issues

I have the larger 330mm non-M sport disks but I'd imagine the design is basically the same

If you've changed discs and pads before you wont have any issues, as long as you have a decent 8mm hex key its all pretty obvious

The M Sport calipers are completely different, they’re fixed calipers so the pads fitting is different, and also they’re more prone to squeal.

[Sasquartch]

OK, thanks for the update, I didn't realise there was a fundamental difference between the two types

[jamiem1987]

The pagid pads are now in, looks like on the old pads i was lucky i caught them just before the wear sensor got worn through, idrive was showing 3,500 until replacement and it shows this is pretty accurate, the sensor was almost touching the disc.

First impressions are brilliant, they feel just like the genuine pads did as new, its amazing how far the pedal had dropped as the pads wear, braking now feels positive and secure and i havent really even bedded in the new pagid’s.

I took extra care to grease everything as suggested by the ista document on replacing the pads and they are squeak free. I noticed that the pagid pads have larger retainers which i believe is to stop the squealing.

The clunk is there when applying the brakes after reversing but its really subtle and i dont think i’d have noticed it if it hadnt been mentioned on here so i’m not going to lose any sleep over this.

Overall highly recommend these, i got them for £28 during the black friday event at euro car parts which ia an absolute steal.

edit: i also managed to reset the idrive mileage for the front pads using the dash reset menu, this was extremely straight forward following a youtube vid. I think if the sensor gets worn its not possible to reset the mileage so heads up to try and swap the pads just as the thickness of the pads is the same as the backing of the pads to save buying a new sensor.