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      04-08-2017, 07:25 AM   #89
Nelson@BimmerTech
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      04-25-2017, 07:16 PM   #90
Kenniey
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Is there an update on the shipments?
Also is the issue with the powertrunk resolved? A few times I have the issue that the trunk doesn't close completely. Opening it and closing mostly is enough to close it again correctly. Closing the trunk when the car is locked, always works correct. Not a single issue had with closing when everything is locked.
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      04-26-2017, 10:12 PM   #91
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kenniey View Post
Is there an update on the shipments?
Also is the issue with the powertrunk resolved? A few times I have the issue that the trunk doesn't close completely. Opening it and closing mostly is enough to close it again correctly. Closing the trunk when the car is locked, always works correct. Not a single issue had with closing when everything is locked.
The production is almost finished. Delivery will definitely be in May but we do our best to make it the first half of the month.

As for power trunk you might want to try to check this post:
http://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sho...&postcount=306
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      05-01-2017, 03:44 PM   #92
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Will you accept new orders?
Thanks
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      05-02-2017, 08:13 PM   #93
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Will you accept new orders?
Thanks
Yes.
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      05-03-2017, 07:07 AM   #94
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Group buy discount?
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      05-03-2017, 08:49 AM   #95
Nelson@BimmerTech
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Group buy discount?
Yes we can still honor it.
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      05-08-2017, 05:37 PM   #96
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Hi, Can you pm me the payment info if the kit fits f34? I would like to purchase one.
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      05-20-2017, 03:23 AM   #97
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nelson@BimmerTech View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by PBJ View Post
Group buy discount?
Yes we can still honor it.
I send am pm for soft close kit group buy.

Regards.
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      05-21-2017, 09:56 AM   #98
graphys
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When will the product announcement be added to your internet site?
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      05-21-2017, 02:42 PM   #99
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      05-21-2017, 06:53 PM   #100
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2018 bmw 230i xdrive  [8.50]
I only need one for the driver front door... just waiting for you to sell me one... just one... lol...
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      06-07-2017, 05:08 PM   #101
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Hi;
You open this thread 8/9/2016
Almost gone 1 year.
When you add this product your web site?
If this processes takes long time, i search another option.
Please answer my post. I asked this question second time.
Regards.
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      06-11-2017, 07:07 AM   #102
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I have a f32. Do you offer it for them?

I watched the instructions. Will the metal bracket work with the f32

Also I would on need 2 instead of 4 since I have a coupe

Please PM price. Thanks
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      06-12-2017, 10:32 AM   #103
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Patrys@BimmerTech View Post
The production is almost finished. Delivery will definitely be in May but we do our best to make it the first half of the month.

As for power trunk you might want to try to check this post:
http://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sho...&postcount=306
So... Any update?
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      06-15-2017, 09:22 AM   #104
graphys
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I think it will never be sold anymore.
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      07-04-2017, 09:47 AM   #105
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I got my soft close kit the other week and installed it over the past couple of days!

Works well and I'm happy.

That said, the instructional video is kind of lacking. I will be posting pictures and supplemental commentary after I go through all of my pictures. I will warn you that you should take out the locking mechanism on your driver's door before removing the latching mechanism or you may break it (like I did)!
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      07-04-2017, 10:31 PM   #106
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Ok, here's my supplemental notes containing things that Bryan's video doesn't cover, or doesn't explain well enough.


1) On the driver's door you should remove the cap behind the door handle and attached key lock/cam assembly BEFORE trying to remove the latch mechanism (See the comfort access install video on how to do this here). The rod/cam piece attached to the locking assembly is made of weak MIM and mine broke while I took the latch mechanism out. Now I can't use my key to unlock the car anymore and a new one is about $130.



2) That leads us to identifying the driver's door latch mechanism, which will have a cam for the key of the rod from the lock assembly to go into (original driver's door latch on bottom, left side rear soft close latch on top, note no key hole).



3) Also, identify which latch is for the front and which is for the rear doors. The rear doors have the little lever for the child lock (left one in photo).



4) My '17 LCI car had an extra bracket in the driver's foot well that the hood latch and OBDII port were mounted to. There are three torx bolts holding it that need to be removed to get this piece out of the way.



5) When removing the electrical connector from the car door to the body, to pop the wire housing out of the assembly on the under side there's tab to release with a flat head. Then it can be slide up and out.



6) When trying to maneuver the soft close latch assembly into place, I found that the way to do it is to tilt the unit at a 45deg angle and try to get the large bulge of the unit (with the sticker on it) into the bulge/squarish cutout area on the door. Then you should have enough clearance to rotate it.



7) When mounting the front door soft close actuator plates, there will be a bolt in the way. Get the screws on both ends started (very loosely), and then tighten it down. The plate will bend around the protruding bolt as shown in the photo.



8) When popping the window switch on the rear doors out, go from the back instead of the front (opposite from the front door switches). The rear of these switches has one large tab in the middle versus two on either side in the front.
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      07-05-2017, 05:34 AM   #107
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FaRKle! View Post
Ok, here's my supplemental notes containing things that Bryan's video doesn't cover, or doesn't explain well enough.


1) On the driver's door you should remove the cap behind the door handle and attached key lock/cam assembly BEFORE trying to remove the latch mechanism (See the comfort access install video on how to do this here). The rod/cam piece attached to the locking assembly is made of weak MIM and mine broke while I took the latch mechanism out. Now I can't use my key to unlock the car anymore and a new one is about $130.



2) That leads us to identifying the driver's door latch mechanism, which will have a cam for the key of the rod from the lock assembly to go into (original driver's door latch on bottom, left side rear soft close latch on top, note no key hole).



3) Also, identify which latch is for the front and which is for the rear doors. The rear doors have the little lever for the child lock (left one in photo).



4) My '17 LCI car had an extra bracket in the driver's foot well that the hood latch and OBDII port were mounted to. There are three torx bolts holding it that need to be removed to get this piece out of the way.



5) When removing the electrical connector from the car door to the body, to pop the wire housing out of the assembly on the under side there's tab to release with a flat head. Then it can be slide up and out.



6) When trying to maneuver the soft close latch assembly into place, I found that the way to do it is to tilt the unit at a 45deg angle and try to get the large bulge of the unit (with the sticker on it) into the bulge/squarish cutout area on the door. Then you should have enough clearance to rotate it.



7) When mounting the front door soft close actuator plates, there will be a bolt in the way. Get the screws on both ends started (very loosely), and then tighten it down. The plate will bend around the protruding bolt as shown in the photo.



8) When popping the window switch on the rear doors out, go from the back instead of the front (opposite from the front door switches). The rear of these switches has one large tab in the middle versus two on either side in the front.
Hi,

Can you post a picture of what broke? I was a little confused on what and how it broke.

Thanks!

Bryan
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      07-05-2017, 08:09 AM   #108
FaRKle!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bkkeys View Post
Hi,

Can you post a picture of what broke? I was a little confused on what and how it broke.

Thanks!

Bryan

There's supposed to be a ring connecting the ends of what looks like tabs on this piece together. The edges look jagged because it broke off.

Pulling down on the latch assembly to remove it from the car while the rod was inserted into it, or even if the rod wasn't fully inserted it could've been caught by the white lip surround the keyed area on the latch assembly, bent the rod downwards putting stress on the ring till it snapped. It really didn't feel like much resistance when it broke and felt like the gasket/weather sealant peeling off of the door metal.



That ring is what holds the rod piece in the locking assembly (in the 2nd picture the plate slides over it). A spring in the locking assembly (also held down by the plate) applies outward pressure on the rod and with the ring broken, the rod is pushed out of the assembly so when the locking mechanism turns, the rod isn't engaged and the keyed portion on the latch mechanism isn't rotated to lock/unlock.

Last edited by FaRKle!; 07-05-2017 at 08:18 AM..
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      07-06-2017, 10:52 PM   #109
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Some more notes...

9) In Bryan's video the glue holding the factory sound dampening foam/pad came off pretty much in one piece. It looked a bit cooler in his video, but in warmer weather, mine was very sticky and a real mess. I strongly recommend wetting your hands when pulling apart the glue. It won't stick to your hands when wet.

Also, take care not to rip the foam pad when yanking on the glue. Don't bother trying to get ALL of it off of the door either.

10) Be careful when threading the nuts onto the studs of the actuator unit that mounts to the metal plates. I was using my 12V impact to drive the nuts on there and one of them pulled the threaded post out of the actuator unit (it must've had a pretty weak bond). After that, I only tightened them down to my impact's first skip, however, two days later one of my doors started rattling. Upon disassembly, I found that one of the nuts had backed off, was loose, and rattling.

To prevent this use some threadlocker on those posts (I went back and redid all mine), and manually tighten them with a socket so you can feel if the threaded rod is pulling out of the plastic housing.
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      08-13-2017, 04:27 PM   #110
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Quote:
Originally Posted by david51 View Post
I bought the used parts on ebay for about 350 €

tutorial here
https://www.dropbox.com/s/9o1hpdg0jq...%20V1.pdf?dl=0
Link is offline
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