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      03-15-2018, 05:10 AM   #1
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Charge pipe blew today , found one for a manual but im auto

Well guys i finally joing the blowen charge pipe club, i was lucky to find a free one the same day but is for a manual car and mine is auto so no vacum plug f*ck!!!!!

Any ideas ?

Can i use the car with the vacum disconnected until the new one comes in maybe a week from now?

If not maybe cut the new and the old and use a rubber coupling is what im thinking


Thanks
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      03-15-2018, 05:24 AM   #2
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He also has f25 xdrive auto charge pipe maybe that will work
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      03-15-2018, 10:27 AM   #3
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Get an aftermarket steel one. It's a known issue with the oem plastic charge pipe on the N55 due to the engine design.
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      03-15-2018, 02:21 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gr-Racing View Post
Well guys i finally joing the blowen charge pipe club, i was lucky to find a free one the same day but is for a manual car and mine is auto so no vacum plug f*ck!!!!!

Any ideas ?

Can i use the car with the vacum disconnected until the new one comes in maybe a week from now?

If not maybe cut the new and the old and use a rubber coupling is what im thinking


Thanks
Overnight from forum sponsor.

Or I’ll sell you my OEM Part from 335i Auto.

This is exactly why members should have purchased part with free shipping during Black Friday deals.
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      03-15-2018, 07:08 PM   #5
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Mine just blew on my 335i this past Monday...

Had the indie replace it and put new plugs in at the same time (I have just under 53K miles on the odometer). Now cylinders 3 and 5 are intermittently dropping out (which also triggers limp mode) and they couldn't figure out why. So it's been over at the the local dealer for 1.5 days and they haven't diagnosed it either, and I'm racking up rental car charges too (dealer had no loaners available). Sigh...
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      03-15-2018, 07:39 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VCuomo View Post
Mine just blew on my 335i this past Monday...

Had the indie replace it and put new plugs in at the same time (I have just under 53K miles on the odometer). Now cylinders 3 and 5 are intermittently dropping out (which also triggers limp mode) and they couldn't figure out why. So it's been over at the the local dealer for 1.5 days and they haven't diagnosed it either, and I'm racking up rental car charges too (dealer had no loaners available). Sigh...
You'll want to rule out the ignition coils themselves, next.

Put ignition coils 3 and 5 in cylinders 2 and 4. Clear the codes. If the same error code re-appears, but then reads cylinders 2 and 4, you can safely assume those two ignition coils are bad. Orrrrrrrr.... Just replace them all at once?
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      03-15-2018, 07:47 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Logicoeur View Post
You'll want to rule out the ignition coils themselves, next.

Put ignition coils 3 and 5 in cylinders 2 and 4. Clear the codes. If the same error code re-appears, but then reads cylinders 2 and 4, you can safely assume those two ignition coils are bad. Orrrrrrrr.... Just replace them all at once?
I thought the recommendation is always to replace them all at once anyways?
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      03-16-2018, 05:49 AM   #8
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Got a F25 charge pipe for free and it works yay , back on the road until the new ones come in
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      03-21-2018, 12:31 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Logicoeur View Post
You'll want to rule out the ignition coils themselves, next.

Put ignition coils 3 and 5 in cylinders 2 and 4. Clear the codes. If the same error code re-appears, but then reads cylinders 2 and 4, you can safely assume those two ignition coils are bad. Orrrrrrrr.... Just replace them all at once?
Just got my car back today. It was the coil packs.

According to the dealer, when coil packs go bad the can take out the spark plugs too. So if you swap the coil packs without swapping the spark plugs too, then you may have just blown two more spark plugs and made the problem worse. If the dealer is correct, then it'd be best to swap coil packs and plugs together and see if the problem moves with them.

Because of this, they replaced all of the new plugs that the indie put in with another set of new plugs, and also replaced the coil packs on the two cylinders that were dropping out (3 and 5). Car seems fine now (idles smoother and seems to have a little more seat-of-the-pants torque too).

They also replaced a leaking valve cover gasket (under CA emissions warranty) and the internal gas tank pump (BMW recall). She's all fixed up and runnin' good now!

Last edited by VCuomo; 03-21-2018 at 06:20 PM..
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      03-21-2018, 09:56 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kailec View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Logicoeur View Post
You'll want to rule out the ignition coils themselves, next.

Put ignition coils 3 and 5 in cylinders 2 and 4. Clear the codes. If the same error code re-appears, but then reads cylinders 2 and 4, you can safely assume those two ignition coils are bad. Orrrrrrrr.... Just replace them all at once?
I thought the recommendation is always to replace them all at once anyways?
Yeah you can opt for that type of solution but it seems better suited for dealers who want to boost the sale with more parts and labor. Not really necessary to replace all the coilpacks simultaneously if you know which have broken. Doesn't hurt to keep a spare or two either. Suggested is never meant as a superlative
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      03-21-2018, 06:17 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Logicoeur View Post
Yeah you can opt for that type of solution but it seems better suited for dealers who want to boost the sale with more parts and labor. Not really necessary to replace all the coilpacks simultaneously if you know which have broken. Doesn't hurt to keep a spare or two either. Suggested is never meant as a superlative
The dealer only replaced two coil packs on my car.
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      03-26-2018, 05:53 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by IK6SPEED View Post

This is exactly why members should have purchased part with free shipping during Black Friday deals.
Yep ^^
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