[sleet]

Dear All,

In the past one and a half years or so, in the quest for more power for my 328i, I purchased the AFE power scorcher, BMS stage 2 and both TMC stage 1 and 2 tuning kits.

I am just your everyday driver and by no means a garage owner, which means switching between tuning boxes takes me some effort. Neither do I have unlimited access to free dyno runs but I tried my best to get a dyno run everytime I did an upgrade to the car. And I'm hoping to share some of my results with everyone here.

I tried as best to keep all variables constant so all my dyno runs with done with:
1) Michellin PSS tires
2) Shell Ultra Helix 5w40 engine oil
3) Shell Fuelsave 98 petrol (=93 octane in USA)
4) 33-34 degrees Celcius ambient temperature. All dynos were done 12-2pm during a sunny day
5) 3 runs per setting and best result taken

I will start with my more recent results:

1) BMS Stage 2 Map 2 + ER Downpipe + AFE intake + Meisterschaft Open Mode VS AFE scorcher + NO downpipe + AFE intake + Meisterschaft Open Mode



Solid line is with BMS stage 2 map 2 (+4 PSI) + ER Downpipe, dotted line is with AFE and NO downpipe. Unfortunately I am unable to get one with AFE and downpipe. Which leaves me to draw a rough conclusion that the downpipe works in holding the torque curve better from 3.3k rpm to redline. But it seems that the 2 tunes do not yield much difference.

2) AFE scorcher + AFE intake + Meisterschaft Open Mode VS TMC Stage 2 Setting 6 (default) + AFE intake + Meisterschaft Open Mode



Solid line TMC Stage 2. Dotted line AFE. TMC Stage 2 adds a camshaft sensor which is supposed to detect RPM and adjust some stuff on the go. Not quite sure what to make of this graph. I was slightly disappointed because I paid for a stage 2 upgrade which yielded no significant HP improvement (as opposed to advertised) over stage 1. Reason found below.

3) AFE scorcher + no upgrades VS TMC Stage 1 Setting 6 (default) + no upgrades



Solid line TMC. Dotted line AFE. At TMC stage 1 with no upgrades, it was already producing about 296 HP which was as advertised. But with stage 2 and with a cat-back exhaust (we know air intake has no effects at the moment), it yielded, what I feel is a regression, only 294hp rather than 320hp as advertised.

4) AFE scorcher + Meisterschaft Open Mode VS AFE scorcher + Stock Exhaust



Just a graph showing some top-end gains on the Meisterschaft exhaust.


-------

Some final thoughts:

At this point in time, with the available upgrades I have done, I'm guessing that the limiting factor in all these results and in the future will stem from the fact that I live in a part of the world which does not have 'race-grade' fuel.

But from my basic understanding, if you live on 98 octane (93) fuel everyday and want the least complicated install/removal of a tuning kit, my vote goes to AFE.

Thank you for reading. Would love to hear your input.

[Jamesons Viggen]

Fabulous post with great information.

[Rasengan]

thanks for the post and research, this is valuable information

[carzaddict]

great research!

[AMJAM]

Great to see the evidence of what works and what is just hype.

[sleet]

With a combined mileage of 50000km on all the different tunes listed above. I would like to list down a few bugs and annoyances I discovered. Perhaps these problems are not 100% tune related but I hope you will find this list useful.

Problem #1: Car jutting forward and backward. [AFE,TMC Stage 1/2]

It was fairly easy for me to replicate this problem. Engage Sport + mode so that the ECU does not automatically downshift gears. Now achieve 3rd or 4th or 5th gear hold it at around 3000rpm. Full throttle it. The car will shudder forward and backward between 3000-4000rpm.

Initially, I was bewildered by this problem. My mechanics suspected it was a spark plug/misfire/knocking problem. But when I took out the tunes the car was ok. And after I installed BMS stage 2, it was working fine as well. My best guess is BMS does tune in to the throttle position in relation to the gearbox and adjust accordingly while the rest do not?

Problem #2: Car Music affected [BMS stage 2]

To play my favourite tunes, I connect an iPad using a USB cable to the port under the armrest. I always select music by Albums. However, now after the last song in the album, the computer now SOMETIMES automatically plays another few totally unrelated songs in different albums RATHER than looping back to the first song of the album.

In the past with AFE,TMC I never had this problem but now with BMS I have this minor problem. Not sure if it happens because of the wires connecting to the DME?? Which the rest do not have.

Problem #3: Erratic gear change [BMS Stage 2, AFE]

I am still trying to replicate this problem, but in the 2 weeks that I have been using BMS, it has happened to me twice already during daily driving.

What happens is in Comfort mode, D/S gear, you are in S2 (as seen on the dash). You are 3/4 flooring the throttle. At maybe about 5-6k rpm, you upshift with the paddles to M3 (seen on the dash). You also feel the gearbox changing up to the next gear. However, suddenly without reason you automatically downshift again and the dash shows S2.

At this point, I am back at S2 (probably 5k rpm) and a bit freaked so I let go of the throttle but the engine continues to rev to redline. It only reverts back to normal when I step on the brakes or manually upshift it again.

I would also like to note that this problem is not exclusive to BMS. It also happened once to me in AFE across 25000km driven.

[Mike@N54Tuning.com]

Looks like some nice results!

On the N20 JB4 map 2 it should be running more than +4psi over stock. It also has the function to turn off the check engine light for your downpipe. If you just want +4psi and don't need the CAN stuff the N20 Stage1 is a better choice. Installs and removes easier, costs less, etc.

Mike

[reallyreallyslow]

The torque and power for tmc stage 2 and bms stage 2 seems to be coming in "ripples" from after 3500rpm. Is this a dyno issue, tuning issue, or nothing to worry about?

[sleet]

Originally Posted by Mike@N54Tuning.com

Looks like some nice results!

On the N20 JB4 map 2 it should be running more than +4psi over stock. It also has the function to turn off the check engine light for your downpipe. If you just want +4psi and don't need the CAN stuff the N20 Stage1 is a better choice. Installs and removes easier, costs less, etc.

Mike

Thank you. BMS is pretty nifty as it's the only tune that supports turning off the check engine light as I'm running a downpipe. The other cool feature I like is that it potentially allows for in-dash configuration of maps on the fly, not to mention the ability to set it to map 0 when you send it back to the dealer for servicing without taking out the unit. It is just slightly more complicated to install for a layman like myself, given the fact that you need to pull 1 or 2 wires across the engine area.

Originally Posted by reallyreallyslow

The torque and power for tmc stage 2 and bms stage 2 seems to be coming in "ripples" from after 3500rpm. Is this a dyno issue, tuning issue, or nothing to worry about?

I've always pondered about this issue. I've seen other graphs of other cars on the same dyno and it looks generally smooth. My best guess is that its a combination of no 'graph smoothing' used, and the official answer I got was that the engine is retarding at that range because you need higher grade fuel. Which leads me to a few hypotheses:

1) There really isn't much point going stage 2 or 3 when all you got is 98 (93) fuel AND an ambient temperature of 30 degrees Celcius. Maybe the default N20 engine just can't go any further. Maybe all they can tweak is to start the boost at lower rpms, smoothen the torque curve from 2.5-5.5k and add a bit of boost at the end.

2) The AFE intake actually makes you lose power where it really matters (2k-5krpm). I know this is a weird one but it's just one of those sneaking hunches that I have.

Especially after seeing this thread:
http://www.f30post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=911801

It would probably cost me US$100 to reinstall my stock air intake and do 3 dynos... Still contemplating...

[rustyminded]

Originally Posted by sleet

With a combined mileage of 50000km on all the different tunes listed above. I would like to list down a few bugs and annoyances I discovered. Perhaps these problems are not 100% tune related but I hope you will find this list useful.

Problem #1: Car jutting forward and backward. [AFE,TMC Stage 1/2]

It was fairly easy for me to replicate this problem. Engage Sport + mode so that the ECU does not automatically downshift gears. Now achieve 3rd or 4th or 5th gear hold it at around 3000rpm. Full throttle it. The car will shudder forward and backward between 3000-4000rpm.

Initially, I was bewildered by this problem. My mechanics suspected it was a spark plug/misfire/knocking problem. But when I took out the tunes the car was ok. And after I installed BMS stage 2, it was working fine as well. My best guess is BMS does tune in to the throttle position in relation to the gearbox and adjust accordingly while the rest do not?

Problem #2: Car Music affected [BMS stage 2]

To play my favourite tunes, I connect an iPad using a USB cable to the port under the armrest. I always select music by Albums. However, now after the last song in the album, the computer now SOMETIMES automatically plays another few totally unrelated songs in different albums RATHER than looping back to the first song of the album.

In the past with AFE,TMC I never had this problem but now with BMS I have this minor problem. Not sure if it happens because of the wires connecting to the DME?? Which the rest do not have.

Problem #3: Erratic gear change [BMS Stage 2, AFE]

I am still trying to replicate this problem, but in the 2 weeks that I have been using BMS, it has happened to me twice already during daily driving.

What happens is in Comfort mode, D/S gear, you are in S2 (as seen on the dash). You are 3/4 flooring the throttle. At maybe about 5-6k rpm, you upshift with the paddles to M3 (seen on the dash). You also feel the gearbox changing up to the next gear. However, suddenly without reason you automatically downshift again and the dash shows S2.

At this point, I am back at S2 (probably 5k rpm) and a bit freaked so I let go of the throttle but the engine continues to rev to redline. It only reverts back to normal when I step on the brakes or manually upshift it again.

I would also like to note that this problem is not exclusive to BMS. It also happened once to me in AFE across 25000km driven.

Hi, I have faced same exact problems first the gearbox up shift and down shift my guess it's not related to any tune but you need to make engine and transmission update from the dealer

second, The shudder problem that was hesitation for me, usually happens between 2.5 to 4 k rpm.. the solution: you need to seriously clean your engine first get injector cleaner and use 1 or 2 in tank then clean injectors again through throttle gate and last clean the manifold through brake booster which I listed before in another forum, after all that get electronic cleaner (somehow the car can't comunicate from dirt etc.) and take out all the connectors (the pins inside) and clean one by one believe me I found one of the connectors had RUST on it idk how it got there but after that the car had no hesitation and was smooth like new even the fuel consumption was back again.. hope this helps as I had this problem and I didn't know what to do.

[glacial silver 228i]

sleet,

Do you have a baseline dyno run with no upgrades? If not, do you have a dyno run with just one exhaust mod? I'm most interested in comparison 3) AFE scorcher + no upgrades VS TMC Stage 1 Setting 6 (default) + no upgrades, and would really like to see the comparison between AFE scorcher + no upgrades and a stone stock no-upgrades run.

Also, I note that your "crankshaft hp" numbers are 33% higher than your rear wheel hp dyno measurements! My understanding is that there is typically a 15% difference between crankshaft hp and rear wheel hp with a manual transmission and ~20% difference with an automatic.

Lastly, your highest rear wheel horsepower measurements are much lower than those I have seen published for a stock 2012 328i N20. For example, here is Edmunds' dyno result: http://www.edmunds.com/car-reviews/t...no-tested.html

Is it possible that you have a power loss from intake valve carbonization?

[mosmmc]

those HP measurements look low for having a tune. here are my dyno result and my car was stock
http://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=885791

[mike@x-ph.com]

Nice results
Power wise, the scorcher is between stage 1 and stage 2 BMS (if you are using the most conservative maps on the BMS).

[perry8912]

Will it be safe to use AFE on 91 gas? I didn't realize that the scorcher is such a aggressive tuner.