[cbrookerd]

Had the battery drain while stopped error, battery died overnight while sitting. Had battery replaced. Same issue a day later, dead battery. Charged battery up and car runs fine, but I'm concerned about the battery drain issue. Used Bimmerlink to export errors and listed below. Any ideas of where to start?

1
Error Memory
Date: 12/11/23 7:37:49 AM
VIN: WBA4B1C5XFD418234
Crash Safety Module
1 error
C9542D: Vehicle speed - signal invalid
allround-view camera
1 error
800B9F: Undervoltage detected
Automatic luggage compartment lid actuation
1 error
801703: HVAC: undervoltage detected
Central Gateway Module
3 errors
CD0487: Synchronization process failed, CC was not yet synchronized when the error
memory lock was released
801C15: Failed to fall asleep at 30B
801C20: Central fault memory full
Digital Motor Electronics
6 errors
1C4110: Oil condition sensor: malfunction
201004: CBS client: output of substitute value
213601: Power management: Quiescent current violation
213501: Power management: Battery deep discharge
2
CDC104: A-CAN, message (data gear train, 0x1AF): missing
CD9435: A-CAN, message (data gear train, 0x1AF) in the event of undervoltage: missing
Integrated Chassis Management
8 errors
480131: SBS function - diverse computing VX
480134: SBS function - direction of travel unsafe with vx greater than 2 m / s
480006: Local power supply undervoltage
4827A5: SBS function - vertical acceleration - diverse computing HL software
D014A1: Signal error (actual position EPS, ID: AVL_PO_EPS) qualifier
D017A3: Signal error (actual number of encoder edges wheel, ID: AVL_QUAN_EES_WHL) -
Invalid
D017C5: Signal error (actual wheel speed, ID: AVL_RPM_WHL) - Invalid
D017C6: Signal error (actual wheel speed, ID: AVL_RPM_WHL) - Undefined
Dynamic stability control
6 errors
4809AB: Global power supply - external undervoltage
480AB8: Internal condition management Complete scope of monitoring
D35A53: Signal error (actual steering angle front axle, ID: AVL_STEA_FTAX) qualifier
480A12: Brake pad sensor - rear axle - wear limit reached
4806B8: RDCi wheel electronics front left no reception
48069E: RDCi calibration wheel detection not possible
Electromechanical power steering
2 errors
4823FD: Power supply - Local undervoltage, shutdown of steering assistance
482394: Sensor - rotor position - steering angle - loss of multiturn value
3
Touchbox
1 error
806182: Undervoltage detected
Roof function center
3 errors
801A4B: SINE: External supply undervoltage
030205: SHD, Hall element A: Hall element defective or line interruption
801A38: Undervoltage detected
Gear selector switch
1 error
802696: Undervoltage detected
Instrument panel
7 errors
E11460: Message (data display gear train, 0x3FD) missing, receiver KOMBI, sender EGS DKG
E12C1C: Interface DME DDE (data drive train 2, 0x3F9): signal invalid
E11420: COMBI: ServiceCall cannot be executed
B7F685: COMBI: Undervoltage detected
B7F668: COMBI: system time was reset
E11514: Message (longitudinal acceleration center of gravity, 0x199) missing, receiver
KOMBI, transmitter DSC / ICM_QL
E11515: Message (lateral acceleration center of gravity, 0x19A) is missing, receiver KOMBI,
transmitter DSC / ICM_QL
Telematic Communication Box
2 errors
B7F325: Emergency loudspeaker: interruption
4
B7F327: Microphone 1: Short circuit to ground
Headunit High
1 error
B7F86B: External undervoltage
Controller (iDrive)
2 errors
E2EC08: Signal (0x330) received invalid: Distance_km
801405: Undervoltage detected
Seat module, driver
1 error
802A1E: No seat adjustment due to engine start condition
Rear electronic module
10 errors
030101: FH FAH, relay closing, no output voltage: relay adhesive or fuse defective or short
circuit to ground
030118: FH FAH: No engine start due to overvoltage / undervoltage
030120: FH FAH: The system is not standardized
030181: FH BFH, relay closing, no output voltage: relay adhesive or fuse defective or short
circuit to ground
030195: FH BFH: invalid characteristic, no standardization available
030198: FH BFH: No engine start due to overvoltage / undervoltage
0301A0: FH BFH: The system is not standardized
8031D9: On-board voltage too low
804811: Supply undervoltage 8V5
8048C1: Rear window heating, relay: line to relay interrupted or short circuit to positive
5
Integrated automatic heating / air conditioning system
5 errors
8011C1: External FBM and audio control panel: key clip detected
801237: Rear window heating: Reduction of heating output due to power management
E71408: Message (DT_PT_2, 0x3F9, FA): TEMP_ENG_DRV invalid signal
E71430: Message (STAT_FOG_UP_FRONT, 0x2D1, FA): Timeout
E7143A: Message (STAT_FAS, 0x232, FA): Timeout

[Billfitz]

There's too much there to make sense of it. Clear them all, see if any come back. The two most common parasitic power drains are the dashboard and the water pump. Both have been extensively covered here.

[cbrookerd]

I cleared them and the main ones I notice come back were...

801237: Rear window heating: Reduction of heating output due to power management
and
030120: FH FAH: The system is not standardized

I'll export and upload the full list after clearing tomorrow

[cbrookerd]

Cleared memory, let it charge overnight, sat all day today. Crunk it up and these are the errors now.

Date: 12/12/23 7:05:08 PM
VIN: WBA4B1C5XFD418234

Crash Safety Module
1 error
930AA3: Supply voltage: Undervoltage detected in self-test (PDC)

Central Gateway Module
1 error
801C20: Central fault memory full

Digital Motor Electronics
6 errors
213501: Power management: Battery deep discharge
213601: Power management: Quiescent current violation
213A21: On-board power supply voltage, working range: voltage too low
1C4110: Oil condition sensor: malfunction
201004: CBS client: output of substitute value
213901: Power management: active consumer reduction

Dynamic stability control
3 errors
480964: Local power supply - severe undervoltage
4809AB: Global power supply - external undervoltage
480A12: Brake pad sensor - rear axle - wear limit reached

Electromechanical power steering

2

1 error
4823D4: Power supply - global undervoltage

Touchbox
1 error
806182: Undervoltage detected

Front electronic module
7 errors
030020: FH FA: The system is not standardized
804011: Supply undervoltage 8V5
804033: ZSG game protection: wake-up inputs blocked
8040B9: Deactivation of terminal 30B: OSFG reached
8040BB: Kl30B active: start capability limit reached or Kl. 30B active for a long time
8040BD: Terminal 30F reset or shutdown
804256: Outside mirror right (LIN): heating or electric chrome: defective

Roof function center
1 error
801A38: Undervoltage detected

Instrument panel
2 errors
E11482: Message (Alive counter security, 0x0D7) not up to date, receiver KOMBI, sender
ACSM
E12C1D: Information: Terminal 30f was switched off (terminal 30 delay time controlled by
errors, 0x3AC)

Telematic Communication Box
2 errors

3
B7F325: Emergency loudspeaker: interruption
B7F327: Microphone 1: Short circuit to ground

Headunit High
1 error
B7F86B: External undervoltage

Controller (iDrive)
1 error
801405: Undervoltage detected

Rear electronic module
3 errors
0301A0: FH BFH: The system is not standardized
8031D9: On-board voltage too low
804811: Supply undervoltage 8V5

Integrated automatic heating / air conditioning system
2 errors
801228: Power management: Reduction of fan power
801237: Rear window heating: Reduction of heating output due to power management

[fe7565]

Try to clear errors and check for errors right after the battery is fully charged. If you let the car sit (presumably) draining amps and then measure, it will throw too many error codes.

Are you driving the car after the battery full charge? Or just let the car sit and then measure? Trying to eliminate the alternator. If you did not drive and still drains in a day, then battery is bad or you have a significant short.

Best would be, if you had a clamp on amp meter that can measure below 2-6 Amps. And check the amps with trunk open (close trunk lock latch manually to turn off trunk light). Watch amps during next 10-15 mins while car goes to sleep.

[cbrookerd]

I've driven it all day once it is charged. Seems to be no issue with the alternator as the drain doesn't occur once I have it running for a bit. I checked batter level using Bimmerlink after driving it for two hours and it was at 99%. After having it parked and off withouth the alarm set for about 3 hours it was down to 88%

[fe7565]

Looks like something is drawing power. You can go by the tedious and hit and miss method and start pulling fuses, or invest in a DC clamp on meter for about $30 up to $60. It should be able to measure below 10A with decent resolution.

Recommend the UNI-T UT210E Digital Handheld Clamp Multimet. 2A setting.


https://lygte-info.dk/review/DMMUNI-TUT210E%20UK.html

https://www.amazon.com/UNI-T-Digital...4C7I3ZAB0&th=1

https://www.ebay.com/itm/28537906212...caAhBGEALw_wcB

EDIT: UT210E is better than UT203+.

[cbrookerd]

Never done this type of troubleshooting, so help me understand the process. My understanding is I'm clamping onto the + batter lead and reading meter. Pull a fuse, check for a drop. Once I know where the drop was on the fuse, then I look deeper into what all is on that fuse and go from there, right?

[fe7565]

You can clamp it on either the positive or the negative, doesn’t matter. Make sure you set the clamp on meter to DC and not AC. Also, I would set it at 20A or higher at first because tha car will draw 10-12A normally before going to sleep. Zero the meter after you initially clamped it on.

Before you even start anything, when you pop the trunk open, push the locking latch in with a screwdriver so the trunk light goes off. That way you can keep the trunk open and monitor the amp meter visually.

Lock the car with the remote and move the FOB out of range. Observe the amp meter for the next 15-20 minutes. When/if the amps drop below 2A you can switch the meter to the 2A DC! scale and zero again. But if you have a large drain you will probably not see it go below 2A.

With the amp meter on the battery, before locking the car, it will read probably between 10 to 12 A. After locking it, it should slowly drop down to 4 to 6 amp in about five minutes or less, and then down to one or 2 A under 10 minutes, and then drop below one amp eventually down to between 20 and 80 mA

During this time, you should listen to any sounds or noises coming from the engine that would indicate something is still running. .

[jdhillon656]

Open the doors & trunk hood. Lock it with screw driver then press lock key with remote.

Let it sleep for 1 hour

don't bring car key near once car goes sleep.

Take a look on all fuses & relays with thermal camera, or try to find out heated fuses with electric thermometer. little cheaper then thermal camera

[cbrookerd]

Originally Posted by fe7565

You can clamp it on either the positive or the negative, doesn’t matter. Make sure you set the clamp on meter to DC and not AC. Also, I would set it at 20A or higher at first because tha car will draw 10-12A normally before going to sleep. Zero the meter after you initially clamped it on.

Before you even start anything, when you pop the trunk open, push the locking latch in with a screwdriver so the trunk light goes off. That way you can keep the trunk open and monitor the amp meter visually.

Lock the car with the remote and move the FOB out of range. Observe the amp meter for the next 15-20 minutes. When/if the amps drop below 2A you can switch the meter to the 2A DC! scale and zero again. But if you have a large drain you will probably not see it go below 2A.

With the amp meter on the battery, before locking the car, it will read probably between 10 to 12 A. After locking it, it should slowly drop down to 4 to 6 amp in about five minutes or less, and then down to one or 2 A under 10 minutes, and then drop below one amp eventually down to between 20 and 80 mA

During this time, you should listen to any sounds or noises coming from the engine that would indicate something is still running. .

Super helpful. Thanks for this info. I'll let you guys know how I turn out.