12-11-2016, 03:57 PM | #1 |
Happily breaking in the F36!
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Break-in of new engine/car? Yay or nay?
So in less than a month, I'll be picking up my first ever BMW, an estoril 430i GC M-sport package. And then comes that much debated question. Do we still take it gentle in new cars? Do we break-in the new engine, or drive it like we stole it from odometer virginity?
What are your opinions? Break-in? If so, how and how long? |
12-11-2016, 04:26 PM | #2 |
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Only been asked a million times already - do a search and read the manual........
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12-11-2016, 05:16 PM | #3 |
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Is it going to hurt anything to break it in ?
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12-11-2016, 05:27 PM | #4 | |
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12-11-2016, 05:39 PM | #5 | |
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12-11-2016, 06:06 PM | #6 |
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When I pic up my new toy I sure will follow the instructions. Wether you decide to or not is up to you. With that said, take a look at the following video:
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12-11-2016, 08:36 PM | #12 | |
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also if all leased people don't break in the engine properly and BMW starts getting earlier than expected engine problems than the residuals will be lowered since BMW will have a harder time to sell used cars. |
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12-12-2016, 12:50 AM | #14 | |
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12-12-2016, 06:10 AM | #16 |
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12-12-2016, 08:28 AM | #18 |
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After that revocation, you then get the official DUMBASS card. Take it easy for the first 1200 miles (which is what BMW recommends) and go from there.
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12-12-2016, 09:45 AM | #19 |
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Interjecting a little bit of information on why you need to break-in an engine. Besides all the other stuff that needs to mate/wear-in, one of the major concerns is the rings and cylinders.
The rings expand and contract based on heat and pressure in the cylinder, no news there. From the factory your cylinders are coated with a cross-hatch pattern with pointy tips. I think around 5 microns thick or thereabouts. Anyway, during break-in the rings need to wear off the pointy tips so you ultimately end up with a nice smooth surface which mates perfectly with the rings. Too little heat and pressure (i.e. low rpm) and the rings don't press hard enough on the tips to scrub them off. Then over time your rings anneal, meaning the metal itself softens. Once that happens you can rev all you want but the rings are now too soft to scrub off those tips so your window for break-in is lost. Go all Fast and Furious out the gate and you get so much heat and pressure (high rpm) from the rings forcefully scrubbing against the tips that you get spalling. That's when the metal from the tips rips off and bonds to the rings, preventing a smooth mating. This is why you vary rpms and don't go nuts for the first 1200 miles. With modern manufacturing techniques there's a lot less metal-to-metal contact than before (that 5 microns I mentioned) so high-revving is likely not nearly as much a concern as it used to be. |
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12-12-2016, 10:07 AM | #20 | |
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However you get one chance at proper break-in so research it up and do it right.. btw driving like granny isnt the proper way to break it in in theory.. however i do wish BMW came with some tech bulletins to enlighten us on how they think we should drive to properly seat their rings..besides that single paragraph.. as it is important |
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12-12-2016, 10:46 AM | #21 |
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Let's see, $45,000+ cars designed by the leading automotive engineers, with procedures clearly spelled out. And you want to ask a bunch of enthusiastic posters if the guys who designed your car are correct.
No, the German engineers know nothing about the cars they designed. So listen to the folks here, many will tell you anything you want to read, between misspellings. Me? After breaking in my last German car properly and driving it for 16 years without any engine problems, I decided that I'd follow break in properly as directed. Plus I did an oil change at 1400 miles. But what do I know? |
12-12-2016, 11:29 AM | #22 | |
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clutch, brakes, and tires all need to be broken in for optimal effectiveness. while this is less important, transmissions need A LONG TIME to full break-in. it doesnt mean you cant do full throttle pulls once the 3000mile period is up, just dont do anything stupid with it. |
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