[Insane435]

I have now done 2 full paint corrections on my F32. The first time I did the correction I used the following:

Porter Cable
6" Meguiar's Microfiber pads
Meguiar's D300 correction polish.

This combo did not seem to work very well. I tried tons of passes on certain spots and it never seemed to eliminate all of the micro scratches.

The second time I did a correction I used the following:

Porter Cable
5" Meguiar's Microfiber pads
"Jescar Heavy Correction Compound" polish.

This combo seemed to do better. The 5" pad doesn't heat up and the polisher seems to control it alot better. However, at the end, not all of the micro scratches got removed. I probably did 6 passes per working area and even that was not giving 100% clarity. I probably needed to do like 10 passes with very slow arm speed to remove all of the scratches. Imagine how long that would have taken me.

So, what are some of you guys using on your vehicle to get rid of EVERYTHING? Ive done my research and it seems like the Jescar and Meguiar's MF pads are very good for cutting. The only thing I can think of is the polisher that I am using. I dont think the porter cable is any good, but I didn't think it could be this bad.

Thoughts?

[Billfitz]

The Porter-Cable is fine. The Jescar compound is rated for removing 1500 grit scratches. I prefer Menzerna FG 400, which is rated for 1200 grit scratches, followed up by Menzerna FF3000 and then PL88.

[Insane435]

Originally Posted by Billfitz

The Porter-Cable is fine. The Jescar compound is rated for removing 1500 grit scratches. I prefer Menzerna FG 400, which is rated for 1200 grit scratches, followed up by Menzerna FF3000 and then PL88.

I have menzerna fg400. I personally thought the meguiars d300 did more work.
I have meguiars m105. Maybe i needed to use that.

[Billfitz]

If FG 400 doesn't do it you might have severe enough scratching to require wet sanding, which is best left to a pro.

[Insane435]

Originally Posted by Billfitz

If FG 400 doesn't do it you might have severe enough scratching to require wet sanding, which is best left to a pro.

These scratches cant be seen unless the lighting is perfect. They dont appear to be that deep.

[Sanelko]

I'd continue using the 5" pad as I think 6" is too big for compounding with the PC. Easier to maneuver around anyways.

Also, don't be afraid to apply heavy pressure w/ a slow arm speed to remove defects quickly.

Originally Posted by Insane435

I have now done 2 full paint corrections on my F32. The first time I did the correction I used the following:

Porter Cable
6" Meguiar's Microfiber pads
Meguiar's D300 correction polish.

This combo did not seem to work very well. I tried tons of passes on certain spots and it never seemed to eliminate all of the micro scratches.

The second time I did a correction I used the following:

Porter Cable
5" Meguiar's Microfiber pads
"Jescar Heavy Correction Compound" polish.

This combo seemed to do better. The 5" pad doesn't heat up and the polisher seems to control it alot better. However, at the end, not all of the micro scratches got removed. I probably did 6 passes per working area and even that was not giving 100% clarity. I probably needed to do like 10 passes with very slow arm speed to remove all of the scratches. Imagine how long that would have taken me.

So, what are some of you guys using on your vehicle to get rid of EVERYTHING? Ive done my research and it seems like the Jescar and Meguiar's MF pads are very good for cutting. The only thing I can think of is the polisher that I am using. I dont think the porter cable is any good, but I didn't think it could be this bad.

Thoughts?

[madmonkey]

The trick with any paint correction is working the polish until the abrasives break down. It's possible that with 6 passes you just didn't give the polish enough time to do its job. Just what exactly is the correct amount of time varies from polish to polish and the conditions on the day. Suffice to say, the FG400 is a great product - I personally use Menzerna and have had great results.

If you find that the polish is flashing off too quickly, you can give the pad a small spritz with a spray bottle of water - that will give you more working time.

My first paint correction I did was on a 2006 Monaco blue 330i and it took me 2 full days - that paint was hard as nails! I used a Porter Cable and it did the job.

[Soul_Glo]

Originally Posted by Insane435

These scratches cant be seen unless the lighting is perfect. They dont appear to be that deep.

Considering perfect lighting is required. What are we talking about? Shining a torch up close or a particular angle in the sun?

Can you describe the scratches? Are they cobweb type marks, swirling or, hologram marks?

Any photos?

Then we can advise better on product and method.

[Soul_Glo]

Originally Posted by madmonkey

The trick with any paint correction is working the polish until the abrasives break down. It's possible that with 6 passes you just didn't give the polish enough time to do its job. Just what exactly is the correct amount of time varies from polish to polish and the conditions on the day. Suffice to say, the FG400 is a great product - I personally use Menzerna and have had great results.

If you find that the polish is flashing off too quickly, you can give the pad a small spritz with a spray bottle of water - that will give you more working time.

My first paint correction I did was on a 2006 Monaco blue 330i and it took me 2 full days - that paint was hard as nails! I used a Porter Cable and it did the job.

+1

[Soul_Glo]

@PanTheOrganizer any thoughts brother?

[flipnkraut]

We're going to need pics.

But, without that I would suggest slowing down. 6 passes should be more than enough to get out most scratches with what you're using. Watch how slow Larry goes :

Another thing, how big is your working area? Try doing the same passes but on a much smaller area.

Also with the heavy cut you mentioned you're not getting 100% clarity. You're not going to with a heavy cut compound. It should look slightly hazy. You need to follow up with a polish.

[Insane435]

Originally Posted by flipnkraut

We're going to need pics.

But, without that I would suggest slowing down. 6 passes should be more than enough to get out most scratches with what you're using. Watch how slow Larry goes :

Another thing, how big is your working area? Try doing the same passes but on a much smaller area.

Also with the heavy cut you mentioned you're not getting 100% clarity. You're not going to with a heavy cut compound. It should look slightly hazy. You need to follow up with a polish.

Good tips for sure. I try to keep a small working area. I also always follow up with the Menzerna 3800 fine polish.

I just noticed i have a ton of swirls on the car now. So much for this cermaic nonsense. I may just go back to wax. The only thing that can be scratching the car is my Adams wash mitt. It may be time to replace it.

Does anyone think I can correct, fine polish, seal, and wax one panel per day? I dont have the time to do the whole car 100% properly. Thoughts?

[Billfitz]

I do one or two panels per day per step. The only step where I'll do the entire car in one day is the sealer, as that's so fast.

[Insane435]

Originally Posted by Billfitz

I do one or two panels per day per step. The only step where I'll do the entire car in one day is the sealer, as that's so fast.

Do you drive in between? Its my only car FYI.

So you do not seal/wax until all panels are corrected jeweled? This would be ideal, I just wouldn't want to drive with panels unprotected, however, it may not make a difference as long as I don't wash the car.

[Billfitz]

I do drive in between. It's not like it will suffer any more damage to the finish than a new car will before you get around to applying a sealer. Depending on my schedule I'll work on a panel or two for an hour or so either before or after my other daily routines.

[madmonkey]

Originally Posted by Insane435

Do you drive in between? Its my only car FYI.

So you do not seal/wax until all panels are corrected jeweled? This would be ideal, I just wouldn't want to drive with panels unprotected, however, it may not make a difference as long as I don't wash the car.

Originally Posted by Billfitz

I do drive in between. It's not like it will suffer any more damage to the finish than a new car will before you get around to applying a sealer. Depending on my schedule I'll work on a panel or two for an hour or so either before or after my other daily routines.

I try to time my detailing for a long weekend and I don't make plans to go or do anything with my car. Nothing wrong with driving with unsealed paint, but I try to keep recontamination to a minimum.

The most important step where I don't want to do any driving is when I'm applying sealant. Because I put 2 layers on, I try to give as much time between coats to ensure the 1st layer has cured and bonded properly. I don't want the car to see any water at this stage, so I just leave her parked in the garage.