[Stefkorg]

So i did my install. It sound a lot better with stock loudspeakers but it noticed few things. First in bimmercode expert mode you have a few options for sound presets. You have stereo, hifi, individual hifi, hk, hk surroundsound and high definition (or something like that). And 2 other menues with 4 options again for sound presets. Because i was scared with my amp that it dosent get broken i went first on my alpine 802 with high signal input. The best sound i get is coded on stereo, but high freq are a little bit to loud, and the second best sound was on hk surroundsound. Turnig the volume on my amp to max nad on my radio to max i get a clean sound and loud, not too loud but a little bit louder than the base stereo and it was perfect, BUT i noticed that my amp is to much warming up, coming around 85 C° and this was not good. So i decided to take my jumpers in my amp from high to low level signal input. (In bimmercode i coded that i have an external amp). And then i noticed its all much louder and its overdrive, so i turned the output signal for speakers lower and the master knob lower that i get a little bit louder on max like the base stereo on max, my amp is in normal operating temperature 60-65C° but i hear overdrive. Can it be that my stock speakers are to weak to handle this power now from my amp and then it overdrives or is there an another solution?

[Billfitz]

If you still have the stock midranges and woofers you're probably exceeding their capacity. They're only meant to handle the low output of the head unit amp.

[NealfromNZ]

As Bill said. Your beyond the power levels Only a couple of 4 inch speakers that will fit BMW will take 100 rms from the alpine when turned up (Morel Hybrid 402 slim / BMW reference for example ) Same for the hifi underseat woofers. Hk would work as the have an 8 ohm load so the alpine wouldn’t develop full power with that impedance.

Just back off the gains a bit within the alpine configs to the point were your speakers don’t distort. Either that or do the smoke test were you will get a burning smell as the speakers voice coils overheat just before they blow.

What would also be a good idea if to use Bills crossover design but add a couple of poly switches to the design to protect the tweeters and mid door speakers from getting too much power. You’ll get better sound and speaker protection..

Sound like you’re doing well

[Billfitz]

No four inch speakers will handle 100w mechanically, and it's the mechanical capacity that determines both maximum output and THD. The good news is that they don't have to, above 125Hz 25 watts of mechanical power handling is plenty. The trick lies in knowing what the mechanical power limit for any driver is, as none list it. The Thiele/Small spec that reveals the mechanical limit is xmax. To take 25 watts requires 3.5mm. Unfortunately very few data sheets list it, if they even have a data sheet. The Morel Hybrid 402 xmax is 3.5mm, so it will take the necessary 25w, but so will the BMW Hi-Fi midranges, as I measured mine at 3.5mm. I doubt that the BMW base midrange has more than 2mm xmax, probably less.
If the OP still has the OEM 6.5 inch underseat woofers they should be the first to go, replaced with SWS Earthquake.

[Stefkorg]

I researched a little bit, like i said coding on stereo there is much more bass on lower volume and going on max it distorted, now i have surround sound coded, on lower volume no bass, on higher a nice chest kick but its distorted, subs and mids, i cuted the mids on 13thz off, and the subs from 40hz to 134hz, because lower than 40hz i think they would fast blow up. So on max volume 10 min i smell a little bit the subs.

Yes the problem is the stock speakers can not handle the power what my amp gives. In few months im going to replace the subs first the mids can wait.

I had an alfa 159 with bose, and that was a loud clear system and now i wanna better than that. 😅

Is there any other options than sws earthquake subs? I live in Croatia and i dont think i have the option to hear the subs first.

[NealfromNZ]

Ahifi in Czech Republic has ESB BMW Sub 1 on special. These have a 9mm Xmax so a bit more cone movement than most drop in solutions. Large voice coil as well and 90db mid bass delivery at 2.83 volts so quite good compared with other 4 ohm options.

Suggests a 35hz 24Db / octave filter. But with a low QTS might need to be 40 ish to limit cone travel at 100 watts.

[Billfitz]

Originally Posted by Stefkorg

Is there any other options than sws earthquake subs? I live in Croatia and i dont think i have the option to hear the subs first.

You don't need to hear them. Professional acoustical engineers like myself have used speaker modeling software to accurately predict speaker performance for 25 years. This compares the SWS to the above mentioned ESB. It would take two of the ESB to equal the output of one SWS.


And yes, I wrote EBS instead of ESB.

Unless you have a separate trunk mounted sub the SWS Earthquake is the best option, at a lower price than many that don't work as well.

[NealfromNZ]

Ahifi is only 450 kms away from where he lives so could have a listen as they have a few options 😉

[Stefkorg]

Neal my friend i think i dont i do that way just to hear the subs, i work in germany and traveling every month 640 km one way, im done with that i would rather be without subs 😂

And yes i put a filter (chevy or something) that cuts the 25hz to 40hz out

Bilifitz im gonna search on ebay, maybe something appears.

But guys i thank you both, you helped me.

[Stefkorg]

I can on ebay buy some hifi speakers, 5 speakers, 2 tweeters, 2 subs and a amp for 180 euros. I would sell the amp, but are the speakers much better than the stock? Please help guys, is it worth it?

[Billfitz]

The Hi-Fi speakers are better than the base speakers, being able to handle at least twice the power. My Hi-Fi speakers go as loud as I care for.

[Stefkorg]

Than im glad that i buyed it. Need to wait 1 month until upgrade. Im so excited.

[Stefkorg]

Btw is the center speaker worth to build in?

[Billfitz]

I'd say the vote on that is 50/50.

[Stefkorg]

Hy guys, i upgraded my stock speaker to hifi speakers and add 2 tweeters in the rear doors. It sounds better. I can play louder, the subs and mids dont distort on higher volume, but on lower volume i have no bass response. The hifi subs are 2 ohm and i changed the impedance on my amp to 2 ohm.... can someone help me? Coding to hifi i get the worst sound i ever heared in my life... any suggestions?

[NealfromNZ]

It could be worth adding a Alpine bass knob.
Bill did a post a graph on the apperent volume of bass at different sound pressure levels. When I ran a smaller sub on an earlier system I had to adjust the bass knob at lower volumes.

In your bimmer code have a look at premium audio coding ( B&O on pre id6 or B&W on the last ones ) it might be more to your liking.

Alpine bass knob

[Billfitz]

Originally Posted by Stefkorg

on lower volume i have no bass response.

This is why:

Many DSPs have what's known as dynamic EQ, which boosts the lows and highs at low volume, reducing the boost at high volume, to compensate for the different sensitivity of our hearing in the lows and highs depending on the level. Back in the 50s-80s home stereo receivers had a similar circuit, albeit analog, that was called a loudness control.