[XxThe_RemedyXx]

This happened to me a few days ago for the first time. Happened for a few minutes and then went away and hasn't happened since. Not sure what the deal is.

[IK6SPEED]

Originally Posted by XxThe_RemedyXx

This happened to me a few days ago for the first time. Happened for a few minutes and then went away and hasn't happened since. Not sure what the deal is.

One of the 3 mentioned items is intermittent, most likely about to fail.

[XxThe_RemedyXx]

Originally Posted by IK6SPEED

One of the 3 mentioned items is intermittent, most likely about to fail.

Great, lol. I guess I should anticipate a visit to the dealer. Hopefully they can swap the HU inder CPO.

[IK6SPEED]

Originally Posted by XxThe_RemedyXx

Great, lol. I guess I should anticipate a visit to the dealer. Hopefully they can swap the HU inder CPO.

Should be covered

[Emme2]

Originally Posted by IK6SPEED

*sigh*

If your explanation were correct, every 2011/2012/2013 CIC F30 in the USA would show up as "NO SIGNAL" as the 2G COMBOX quit working as of 12/31/2016 and 3G will quit working in all pre-2016 cars in the next few months.

NONE of those have or will have a signal to the BMW Servers.

And there will not be a "NO SIGNAL" warning.

I have a 2013 F30 with CIC and 2G COMBOX which hasn't had a connection to BMW Servers since 2016 and I have NEVER had a No Signal on the CID except for when I pull the connector to the HU.

Anyone with a 2011-2013 F3x can tell you that you are incorrect as their CID does not have a constant NO SIGNAL for the last 3 years.

You think Encanto is incorrect. You think I am incorrect.

Next you'll tell BMW that they are incorrect:

I'll leave you to beat a dead horse my friend

What you describe is another type of failure. What I described is an interruption. Same error message, different limitations.

Neither of us is wrong, but I also leave it to you to make wrong assumptions and interpretations as well as unnecessary repetitions after this.

[IK6SPEED]

Originally Posted by Emme2

I'll leave you to beat a dead horse my friend

What you describe is another type of failure. What I described is an interruption. Same error message, different limitations.

Neither of us is wrong, but I also leave it to you to make wrong assumptions and interpretations as well as unnecessary repetitions after this.

Yet BMW states you are incorrect.

Lots of luck finding your spin in BMW Documentation instead of your assumptions.

Again, BMW lists the 3 items causing the condition. Yours is not among them.

[Supedagod]

Happened to my 2015 428 driving home today , last mile before I got to my house , hope it does not return

[3lucidus]

anyone had this fixed by BMW outside of warranty?

[stayfunny]

Seen the "No Signal" on the HU and been looking around for a solution but could not find straight forward answer. Yes there is the Technical bulletin but it seems that a low voltage will give you the same 'No signal'. interestingly i know the HU was good because when putting in reverse the backup camera will display properly then back to Drive and No signal will appear after breif flickering!

I have a retrofit backup camera and did some coding with Esys but all worked perfectly with no issue for the past 3 years. I know my original battery is due for a replacement but still, it is going strong.

What solved the issue for me what to recharge the battery overnight. not driven much lately but that solved the problem so wanted to share.

hope this helps someone
Cheers

2014 F30

[SPYLI]

Originally Posted by stayfunny

Seen the "No Signal" on the HU and been looking around for a solution but could not find straight forward answer. Yes there is the Technical bulletin but it seems that a low voltage will give you the same 'No signal'. interestingly i know the HU was good because when putting in reverse the backup camera will display properly then back to Drive and No signal will appear after breif flickering!

I have a retrofit backup camera and did some coding with Esys but all worked perfectly with no issue for the past 3 years. I know my original battery is due for a replacement but still, it is going strong.

What solved the issue for me what to recharge the battery overnight. not driven much lately but that solved the problem so wanted to share.

hope this helps someone
Cheers

2014 F30

Hello there. So you believe it is because there are accessories draining power from the battery and thus causing low voltage and error signal? Could you please show me how you connect the backup camera in your panel? Mine situation is when i run the car in comfort mode, without air-con is on, the idrive auto boot after 15 min drive. But when I tried to switched on the air-con again, things getting back to normal .

[markkpa60]

Thank you so much for your post! I've been struggling with the exact same issue on a 2016 F30 NBT EVO 8.8". I've had several indications that it's time to replace the battery (it's still the original) - I so hope it will solve my "no signal" problem! I'll post an update afterwards.

[Gen2mike]

I also have gotten this issue and resolved it by replacing the screen cable. Seems the connectors are very sensitive. It started when I went on a trip for a few weeks in Memphis, the humidity must have caused the initial issue.

[Mcnutty]

After some advice please. I have a BMW 2 series with an old screen. Wanted to change it out for one of the newer flat screens.Whilst I managed to purchase on I got the,"No Signal" message when it was connected. Is this because it is a resolution issue?
I apologise if I may come across as being naive in thinking that you could just swap screens. Any help appreciated.

[pisipisi]

Hi all!
This happened to me for the first time a few days ago. I also think it might be related to undervoltage.

Long rant:
It was cold outside, but only -2C (or maybe a -5C max at night) and I drove all day on Autobahn, with plenty of braking and coasting (so at least that blue indicator had plenty of time to tell me the battery is charging). Also, the battery is old and couple of years ago I saw the "low battery" message on the instrument cluster when I didn't drove for a week in winter, but not since then.
So... 2 days before the error I bought (and used for a couple of hours while driving) a 66W super fast charger. The error appeared while I stopped in a parking lot, so the first thing was to removed the charger. After an off/on from the start button, the message went away and everything seemed normal. I drove some 100km more, and at night I went to a gas station. While driving the error appeared again. I noticed the dashcam kept turning off and it said the card was not formatted. I thought that was weird. I also had the dashcam's charger connected to the cig lighter outlet from the glove compartment, but it's really low wattage. I disconnected the charger and 2000km and 3 days later no more "No signal" message.

F34 2013, made for Germany, NBT HU by harman updated with the latest firmware I could find on bmw's website, with an aftermarket backup cam connected to it.

I read the errors and this is related:
"E1C440 The fault is entered when the control unit is next started after a reset." So it just tell me it made a reset, not the cause of the error.

But I also get other errors that might be somehow related.
"8011F9 The fault is an internal fault of the electric auxiliary heater.... The fault code entry does not describe a fault in the heater circuit, but documents the fact that the heater output of the electric auxiliary heater was restricted due to an insufficiently charged 12 V vehicle electrical system."

"801A4C - SINE: undervoltage detected in internal voltage supply. When a fault is present the DWA operation will malfunction. Triggering the acoustic alarm is not ensured." This one I think it's because of the battery that's inside the alarm module.

I also thought I could plug as many devices in the outlets and the worst thing would be a blown fuse, but maybe not.

I'll take the car to service in the future and I'll post here the results, maybe it will help others.

[fe7565]

Originally Posted by pisipisi

Hi all!
This happened to me for the first time a few days ago. I also think it might be related to undervoltage.

Long rant:
It was cold outside, but only -2C (or maybe a -5C max at night) and I drove all day on Autobahn, with plenty of braking and coasting (so at least that blue indicator had plenty of time to tell me the battery is charging). Also, the battery is old and couple of years ago I saw the "low battery" message on the instrument cluster when I didn't drove for a week in winter, but not since then.
So... 2 days before the error I bought (and used for a couple of hours while driving) a 66W super fast charger. The error appeared while I stopped in a parking lot, so the first thing was to removed the charger. After an off/on from the start button, the message went away and everything seemed normal. I drove some 100km more, and at night I went to a gas station. While driving the error appeared again. I noticed the dashcam kept turning off and it said the card was not formatted. I thought that was weird. I also had the dashcam's charger connected to the cig lighter outlet from the glove compartment, but it's really low wattage. I disconnected the charger and 2000km and 3 days later no more "No signal" message.

F34 2013, made for Germany, NBT HU by harman updated with the latest firmware I could find on bmw's website, with an aftermarket backup cam connected to it.

I read the errors and this is related:
"E1C440 The fault is entered when the control unit is next started after a reset." So it just tell me it made a reset, not the cause of the error.

But I also get other errors that might be somehow related.
"8011F9 The fault is an internal fault of the electric auxiliary heater.... The fault code entry does not describe a fault in the heater circuit, but documents the fact that the heater output of the electric auxiliary heater was restricted due to an insufficiently charged 12 V vehicle electrical system."

"801A4C - SINE: undervoltage detected in internal voltage supply. When a fault is present the DWA operation will malfunction. Triggering the acoustic alarm is not ensured." This one I think it's because of the battery that's inside the alarm module.

I also thought I could plug as many devices in the outlets and the worst thing would be a blown fuse, but maybe not.

I'll take the car to service in the future and I'll post here the results, maybe it will help others.

Starting a new thread may get you faster response.