[Arthurrs]

Originally Posted by yoon_209

box came in today.

fits perfectly snug without velcro, sub fits perfect and the color matches as well.

Which driver did you put in the box?

[lkstaack]

Originally Posted by yoon_209

box came in today.

fits perfectly snug without velcro, sub fits perfect and the color matches as well.

Matching color? Looks like you have carpet all around too. Lucky. I wonder if I got someone elses box.

Even though the box may fit snug, consider how it will act in the case of a accident.

[BEM-S4]

Originally Posted by lkstaack

Black Rit dye. Available at Walmart.

Yes, though it was a bit loose as I indicated earlier. T-bolts were not an option.

Don't you need a tight seal for proper performance? I'm basing this about what I know for home speakers / woofers.

[yoon_209]

Originally Posted by lkstaack

Matching color? Looks like you have carpet all around too. Lucky. I wonder if I got someone elses box.

Even though the box may fit snug, consider how it will act in the case of a accident.

Ya everything turned out perfect. The sub fit perfectly and snug into the enclosure and the screws went through perfect. Even the color matched as well. Maybe I got a lucky batch? but everything is working perfect.

and I have a JL 10w3v3 and it bumps hard. I just gotta put sound deadening when it comes in the mail.

[lkstaack]

Originally Posted by BEM-S4

Don't you need a tight seal for proper performance? I'm basing this about what I know for home speakers / woofers.

The seal on my sub is fine; that's dependent on the gasket and surface. I was referring to the gap between the speaker basket and enclosure opening. The opening is so close to the mounting holes that T-bolts would tear up the opening lip.

Originally Posted by yoon_209

and I have a JL 10w3v3 and it bumps hard. I just gotta put sound deadening when it comes in the mail.

I've read that a sub should be broken in prior to working it hard, so I'm keeping it easy for the first 10 hours. Didn't your box come with polyfill already inside? Mine did, so I didn't add any more because the enclosure is already larger than the required volume.

[BEM-S4]

Originally Posted by lkstaack

The seal on my sub is fine; that's dependent on the gasket and surface. I was referring to the gap between the speaker basket and enclosure opening. The opening is so close to the mounting holes that T-bolts would tear up the opening lip.



I've read that a sub should be broken in prior to working it hard, so I'm keeping it easy for the first 10 hours. Didn't your box come with polyfill already inside? Mine did, so I didn't add any more because the enclosure is already larger than the required volume.

Got it thanks for the clarification. Yes to your point on subs need to be broken in, easy does it then ramp up to full blast after 40-ish hours should be good to go.

Also when installing you should do the star pattern screw tightening deal, not go around in a circle, for proper seal. Just FYI for others.

[yoon_209]

Originally Posted by lkstaack

The seal on my sub is fine; that's dependent on the gasket and surface. I was referring to the gap between the speaker basket and enclosure opening. The opening is so close to the mounting holes that T-bolts would tear up the opening lip.



I've read that a sub should be broken in prior to working it hard, so I'm keeping it easy for the first 10 hours. Didn't your box come with polyfill already inside? Mine did, so I didn't add any more because the enclosure is already larger than the required volume.

Ya I bought my sub used and its already been in a sealed box before I put it ino the enclosure so its already broken in. but so far so good. I have my bavsound speakers coming in so it should complete the setup and sound amazing.

and yes it already contained the poly fill

[lkstaack]

Originally Posted by yoon_209

Ya I bought my sub used and its already been in a sealed box before I put it ino the enclosure so its already broken in. but so far so good. I have my bavsound speakers coming in so it should complete the setup and sound amazing.

and yes it already contained the poly fill

Inexpensive enclosure and sub with an OE look; it's a great value. You don't have to pay $800 for a quality subwoofer kit.

[yoon_209]

Originally Posted by lkstaack

Inexpensive enclosure and sub with an OE look; it's a great value. You don't have to pay $800 for a quality subwoofer kit.

I still can't believe people are charging $500 for a stealth box.. That is jus ridiculous. The box we bought only cost 150 and 50 for shipping.

[xavguy]

I just received the sub enclosure. For those that installed it, did you have to remove the cargo net and bracket on the left side of the trunk? If so, is it only removed from underneath the complete left side panel? Also, were you able to leave the plastic cover over the access to the amp?

[yoon_209]

Originally Posted by xavguy

I just received the sub enclosure. For those that installed it, did you have to remove the cargo net and bracket on the left side of the trunk? If so, is it only removed from underneath the complete left side panel? Also, were you able to leave the plastic cover over the access to the amp?

I completely took of the cargo net and bracket. i didnt take off the entire panel but i definitely pulled it the get to the brackets underneath. I also removed the plastic cover as i ran the wires underneath to my amp in the spare tire area.

I also used the provided velcro and did not screw into the side. The velcro is so strong i cant pull the sub box out unless i pry it off with a lever

[badbread]

I'm very interested in doing this. Couple questions...

Is all that is needed is the LC2i to pull an input off the HK system? Is it pretty self explanatory? Do I need some type of wiring harness?

I'm comfortable with the amp/power/ground stuff, just curious about pulling the signal from the HK stuff.

Do they HK underseat subs continue working?

**EDIT**
Where do you tap the remote/amp turn on blue wire?

[yoon_209]

Originally Posted by badbread

I'm very interested in doing this. Couple questions...

Is all that is needed is the LC2i to pull an input off the HK system? Is it pretty self explanatory? Do I need some type of wiring harness?

I'm comfortable with the amp/power/ground stuff, just curious about pulling the signal from the HK stuff.

Do they HK underseat subs continue working?

**EDIT**
Where do you tap the remote/amp turn on blue wire?

technic has a add a sub harness and comes with an LOC. check out his site. technicpnp

[xavguy]

Originally Posted by yoon_209

I completely took of the cargo net and bracket. i didnt take off the entire panel but i definitely pulled it the get to the brackets underneath. I also removed the plastic cover as i ran the wires underneath to my amp in the spare tire area.

I also used the provided velcro and did not screw into the side. The velcro is so strong i cant pull the sub box out unless i pry it off with a lever

I got it installed today. I did end up taking out the drivers side panel to get at those cargo rack pins. Good experience since i'll use some Dynamat back behind there later. The enclosure was a good color match and the the bass is much better than the previous box I had just taking up the trunk space. The driver was also a JL Audio 10W3V3-2ohm. Highly recommend. Used the supplied velcro as well.

[bimmer456]

Originally Posted by lkstaack

I'm just about done. The enclosure matches the stock BMW trunk carpeting after dying it black (though the pictures seem to show that it is much lighter).

Attachment 1760979

I mounted the enclosure to the trunk liner with the expectation I would not be removing it any time soon (unlike enclosures that use the battery cubby that have to be removed every time you service the battery). I am pleased at how it integrates with the trunk; it doesn't use too much trunk space and it doesn't look out of place.

Props to CleavlandBeemer who inspired the amp placement: My F30 Sub Build. I chose to mount the LC2 inside the trunk cubby so that I had access to it and didn't have to drill large holes into the cubby wall. That wall is thick and hard, and requires a sharp bit, a powerful drill, oil, and patience to drill through. I drilled two 1/4" holes on the sub-side and two 5/8" holes on the battery-side in order to get cables and wires through the right places. The wall thickness was too great for regular grommets, so I pressed in plastic hole plugs drilled out for cables/wires. I also covered just about every metal surface in the turnk with sound deadner.

Attachment 1760978

I'm not certain if I mentioned the hardware I installed. It starts with the "add-a-sub" T-Harness I bought from Technic that splits off the high-power sub speaker wires. This runs to a Audio Contrl LC2i line out converter to convert the high power signal to a low power RCA output. The RCAs run to a JL Audio Jx500 mono amp, and the amp powers a JL Audio 10W3v3 subwoofer. The amp has an optional remote bass control that I ran to my center console.

Attachment 1760980

Now I'll be spending some time figuring out what sounds best. I currently have the amp crossed at 80Hz. The underseat Bav Sound woofers integrate well with the sub at louder sound levels, but not so much at lower levels. I don't know if there is anything I can do about this, but I'll keep trying different things. Let me know if you have any questions about my install.

Nice clean look and don't lose any trunk space How does it sound, post video.

[total0wnage]

Do the underseat subs still work?

[BeastMode335i]

Originally Posted by total0wnage

Do the underseat subs still work?

Yes everything still works when you use the Technic Harness and LOC.

[BEM-S4]

Originally Posted by BeastMode335i

Yes everything still works when you use the Technic Harness and LOC.

What you end up with in essence after adjusting all the settings is under seat mids - which is what that speaker is best for.

[Ahanix]

Just wanted to post a small update to this thread if you have a 2016 or newer F30 you won’t have the secondary amplifier to handle advanced Bluetooth in the car, this means you have extra unused space to fit an aftermarket amp.

I went with the ACM 1.300 since it has the same LOC as the LCI 2 (supports 40v speaker level inputs)

Still waiting for my visual ice box to get here, just plugged in the w3 on low to make sure I hooked everything up correctly before removing the sub back out of the car.

[noone]

Originally Posted by Ahanix

Just wanted to post a small update to this thread if you have a 2016 or newer F30 you won’t have the secondary amplifier to handle advanced Bluetooth in the car, this means you have extra unused space to fit an aftermarket amp.

I went with the ACM 1.300 since it has the same LOC as the LCI 2 (supports 40v speaker level inputs)

Still waiting for my visual ice box to get here, just plugged in the w3 on low to make sure I hooked everything up correctly before removing the sub back out of the car.

How did this project turn out? Any pics? I'm close to pulling the trigger on this Visual Ice sub for an F80 but want to make sure the carpet on it is a good match. Thanks in advance.

[noone]

Is there any long term reviews on the Visual Ice left side sub enclosures? Have they held up? Did it deform or collapse the left side trunk liner over time because of its weight?

[Arthurrs]

Originally Posted by noone

Is there any long term reviews on the Visual Ice left side sub enclosures? Have they held up? Did it deform or collapse the left side trunk liner over time because of its weight?

5 months in, mine is still as good as the day I installed it. No issues so far.