[Jeff@TopGearSolutions]

Originally Posted by Ristau

Switching with BC button on steering wheel

Maybe investing in the Bluetooth kit is worth it

Edit: okay holy crap I didn’t realize just how useful the Bluetooth adapter was and now I feel like a moron for not getting it originally.

Likely the main reason folks like the JB4 so much is for the BT Kit

[Ristau]

Update:

Got my codes read today and the only code thrown was P0030, which upon initial research shows that it has something to do with the First (Heated?) O2 sensor.

Quote from E90post:
"What does this mean?
OBD Code P0030refers to
Oxygen Sensors (O2S) or Heated Oxygen Sensors (HO2S) need to reach a minimum operating temperature of 750 degrees F to produce an accurate voltage signal. The faster the heated oxygen sensor reaches that temperature the faster the sensor will start sending an accurate signal to the Engine Control Module (ECM). In order to achieve the require temperature, a heater element is included inside the heated oxygen sensor. The ECM controls the heated oxygen sensor heater element based on signals from the engine coolant temperature and engine load. The ECM controls the heater element circuit by allowing current flow to ground. The ECM monitors the voltage signal received through the heater element circuit and determines the state of the circuit by comparing the voltage detected with the factory specifications.
Symptoms
Possible sumptoms of OBD code P0030
- Engine Light ON (or Service Engine Soon Warning Light) - Engine may be running rich - Fuel vapour from Exhaust - Low MPG
Causes
Possible causes of OBD code P0030
- Heated Oxygen Sensor (H2OS) Bank 1 Sensor 1 circuit open shorted to ground - Heated Oxygen Sensor (H2OS) Bank 1 Sensor 1 circuit poor electrical connection - Faulty Heated Oxygen Sensor (H2OS) Bank 1 Sensor 1 circuit - Heated Oxygen Sensor (H2OS) Bank 1 Sensor 1 circuit fuse - Faulty Engine Control Module (ECM) The Error code is generally activated on detection of the following conditions: The P0030 is set when the ECM detects an open or shorted to ground condition on the heated oxygen sensor heater circuit
Possible Solutions
The code means that there is a problem with the heater element circuit of the heated oxygen sensor. Water getting inside the heated oxygen sensor connector can caused the heated oxygen sensor fuse to blow, which is a very common problem for this type codes. Before replacing the sensor, check for the condition of the heated oxygen sensor fuse and connectors. HO2S Heater Control Circuit Bank 1 Sensor 1 is the generic definition for the P0030; however your vehicle's manufacturer may have a different definition and information for the P0030 code."

Anyone have any additional information?

Could this be an exhaust leak before the first O2 sensor?

[Marlinman]

Possibly the O2 sensors were swapped during re-installation of the aftermarket DP. Or damaged. Those are common problems when attempting this procedure.

[Marlinman]

I'd get under there and double check everything. Others may have more thoughts!

[Ristau]

I'm almost positive that the O2s are in the correct place because we lined the downpipes and moved them one by one, but I'd say that damaged O2 sounds about what I was thinking

[Ristau]

This might be a silly question, but does anyone know what the "typical" code that is thrown after a catless downpipe is installed (due to the up and downstream O2s reading the same value)?

If it's also P0030, then I have a completely different issue, but if not then I think I'm just gonna get a new O2 sensor.

As far as I have read, that code is P0420. Is that correct?

[Mike@N54Tuning.com]

Originally Posted by Marlinman

Possibly the O2 sensors were swapped during re-installation of the aftermarket DP. Or damaged. Those are common problems when attempting this procedure.

+1

VERY common.. Shop guys are very aggressive with o2 removal sometimes. AS the cars get older it also get more and more difficult to remove them as they get seized. Too much force is not a good idea..

Norther cars with exposure to salt also are usually harder to work on as they get older.

Mike

[Ristau]

Now that you mention it, the O2 sensor that broke ended up breaking my O2 sensor socket and we had to use a wrench. Bet we broke it

Edit: Interesting "new" symptom. I just realized that since this started happening, the auto stop/start isn't working either (the orange light about the ignition button is NOT lit, and the little blue "eco" bar is definitely coming up when engine braking, so it should be storing the charge.

[Jeff@TopGearSolutions]

Originally Posted by Ristau

I'm almost positive that the O2s are in the correct place because we lined the downpipes and moved them one by one, but I'd say that damaged O2 sounds about what I was thinking

It's common when removing o2's that they can get damaged. They are pretty sensitive. Especially if they were stuck on there pretty good and had to be torqued heavily to be removed.

[Ristau]

So the last two days, the temperature here (greater stlouis area) was actually pretty nice, hitting about 60F. I had literally no problems whatsoever, but today it dropped back down to under 30F (where I was experiencing problems before), and I noticed that I was experiencing issues again (albeit not nearly as dramatic). Anyone have any clue why that might be?

[Mike@N54Tuning.com]

Originally Posted by Ristau

Now that you mention it, the O2 sensor that broke ended up breaking my O2 sensor socket and we had to use a wrench. Bet we broke it

Edit: Interesting "new" symptom. I just realized that since this started happening, the auto stop/start isn't working either (the orange light about the ignition button is NOT lit, and the little blue "eco" bar is definitely coming up when engine braking, so it should be storing the charge.

auto start can be temperature sensitive.. Iff to cold it turn off automatically I believe.

Mike

[insanecoder]

Originally Posted by Ristau

So the last two days, the temperature here (greater stlouis area) was actually pretty nice, hitting about 60F. I had literally no problems whatsoever, but today it dropped back down to under 30F (where I was experiencing problems before), and I noticed that I was experiencing issues again (albeit not nearly as dramatic). Anyone have any clue why that might be?

Have you datalogged?
JB4 is supposed to have a decent datalogger
Why not try to see whats going on with fuel trims and timing

[Ristau]

Originally Posted by insanecoder

Have you datalogged?
JB4 is supposed to have a decent datalogger
Why not try to see whats going on with fuel trims and timing

Still waiting on a bluetooth add on.

[jgoens]

One thing you may want to do is install ISTA-d from here on the forums. You can hook that up to your car and get a full diagnostic. After I changed my spark plugs, I got a misfire and hooked that up and it told me exactly which cylinder to check and sure enough one of the coils had popped up. There are many ways to get codes, but that program gets right to the point.

[badbread]

Originally Posted by Ristau

So the last two days, the temperature here (greater stlouis area) was actually pretty nice, hitting about 60F. I had literally no problems whatsoever, but today it dropped back down to under 30F (where I was experiencing problems before), and I noticed that I was experiencing issues again (albeit not nearly as dramatic). Anyone have any clue why that might be?

So in cold weather the auto start-stop didn't work but in the warm weather it did work?

If so, ignore the following: When I had my JB4 I had my MAF disconnected and the auto-start-stop (ASS) never worked, when I installed a new MAF and reconnected it, ASS started tworking again. Not sure if it applies here but yea...

[Ristau]

Originally Posted by badbread

So in cold weather the auto start-stop didn't work but in the warm weather it did work?

If so, ignore the following: When I had my JB4 I had my MAF disconnected and the auto-start-stop (ASS) never worked, when I installed a new MAF and reconnected it, ASS started tworking again. Not sure if it applies here but yea...

Hmm... I actually don't know if ASS worked when it was warm. I was specifically talking about power loss, what I can only describe as fuel-cutoff and/or transmission slip, and everything else I mentioned in the first post. Yesterday (warm outside), my car performed like the 335i always has since I got it in August 2016 (well, except with more power since I switched to JB4 map 2 )

[Mike@N54Tuning.com]

Originally Posted by Ristau

Still waiting on a bluetooth add on.

Once you log it, it will be more clear on what is going on.

Mike

[Ristau]

In case anyone was wondering, it did end up just being a bad upstream O2 sensor. Everything is running great now!

On the flip side, my car did just shut off randomly on the left lane of the highway (which was absolutely terrifying because people don't wanna let you over 4 lanes onto a shoulder when you're steadily losing velocity lol) and wouldn't start back up (but it would crank). Got towed to the dealership that I was (thankfully) under a mile away from. Turned out that there was a recall on some part or parts of the fuel pump system, got those replaced for free, and then the fuse that was blowing the fuel pump had blown, causing the lack of engine-ability. Unfortunately, due to my "aftermarket pressure regulator" (JB4 lol), the dealership charged me for an hour of labor on the fuse, which came to be about 130 dollars lol. I could have changed it myself had I known that to be the issue

Just posting for reference in case anyone else experiences something similar