03-30-2021, 05:06 PM | #23 |
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If it is a faulty high pressure sensor, a poster above recommended NOT to change it w/o discharging the system first...ughh
The BMW dealership is the one that charged the system with Freon. You think they may have messed up by over filling or something? Maybe I can see if they can take a second look at it. |
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03-30-2021, 05:21 PM | #24 |
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if you go back to Dealer, ask those guys if they verified the pressure sensor and other system components were checked for proper operation....they already told you the compressor is at fault, maybe it is....or maybe Mr Dealer wants to sell you a nice expensive compressor ....if you get anything less that a straightforward answer, find a reputable independent German shop or a/c specialist and take the car to them for 2nd opinion.
It's possible they over-filled, but we know the sensor is another possible cause for problem you're seeing. You need shop to pinpoint root cause. If you remove sensor you likely opening the system to atmosphere, i.e. you lose refrigerant. |
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03-30-2021, 07:07 PM | #25 |
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Yeah i'll have to set up an appt with the dealer. Also I just rescanned the car (this time while the engine off but ignition ON) and there were no DTCs. Im guessing the 801224 code earlier may have only appeared plus a few others not related to the AC due to engine running which isn't recommended.
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03-31-2021, 08:26 AM | #26 |
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One quick thing to check that I don't see mentioned...
It sounds like there's some other things going on, but just in case. Check your antifreeze in the low pressure auxiliary tank, it's the smaller of the two located at the front driver's side of your engine bay. Mine had a slow leak, and the only way I found it was because when the level got too low, the compressor started rapidly short cycling in the same way you describe. Turns out it does that to protect the system and keep it from overheating. Refilled it, and runs fine. Cap is leaking pressure and vapor and will be replaced soon. I don't believe my scanner showed any trouble codes, but to be honest I'm not entirely sure I thought to check them until after the problem was fixed. Mine also would work perfectly when first starting the car cold, but once the system warmed up it would short cycle the rest of the drive. Quick, cheap, and worth a look just in case. |
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03-31-2021, 10:08 AM | #27 | |
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Parts buying: I'd be wary using EBay, places like FCP Euro have fair parts prices and offer Genuine BMW, OEM and aftermarket suppliers parts and they stand behind their products - best not to cheap out when buying parts for Bimmers. Good luck/Bill |
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03-31-2021, 12:35 PM | #28 | |
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03-31-2021, 02:49 PM | #29 | |
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Caps are $10 on RockAuto, so it's worth a shot anyway. |
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04-19-2021, 01:15 PM | #30 | |
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Had a coolant leak, replaced parts, and this happened with the same code. Have put reached any fix??? |
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04-21-2021, 12:30 PM | #31 | |
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Are you getting those codes with engine off and ignition ON? Because I get no codes with just ignition ON and engine off. |
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04-29-2021, 02:53 PM | #32 |
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Conclusion: Went back to BMW dealer, they vacuumed out the charge and then charged it back up and it works perfectly now. They were the ones that initially charged it up and I'm guessing they may have over charged it since the pressure was high. I did not have to pay for the diagnosis or charge up since it was their mistake....
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