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      08-01-2013, 09:54 AM   #1
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2013 328xi M-sport lease prices?

So I'm seriously considering leasing a 2013 328xi m-sport. Once my car sells which is actually in the process. What em I expecting to see price wise a month? Whats considered a good deal and bad? I will begin dealer hopping very soon but want to hear what you guys are roughly paying. Thanks!
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      08-01-2013, 10:05 AM   #2
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Originally Posted by 3-Serious View Post
So I'm seriously considering leasing a 2013 328xi m-sport. Once my car sells which is actually in the process. What em I expecting to see price wise a month? Whats considered a good deal and bad? I will begin dealer hopping very soon but want to hear what you guys are roughly paying. Thanks!
Don't "dealer hop".

Go to bmwconfig.com, build the car you want, take the invoice price, get the current Money Factor and 10K milage residual, and then email all the dealerships in your area with the exact details of what you want (invoice or just over invoice) and let them come to you.

Money Factor and residual is less for negotiating, if you've got good credit, but you do want to make sure they aren't padding it.

(Plus, don't put any money down unless you're going with MSDs).
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      08-01-2013, 01:24 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by JesseS View Post
Don't "dealer hop".

Go to bmwconfig.com, build the car you want, take the invoice price, get the current Money Factor and 10K milage residual, and then email all the dealerships in your area with the exact details of what you want (invoice or just over invoice) and let them come to you.

Money Factor and residual is less for negotiating, if you've got good credit, but you do want to make sure they aren't padding it.

(Plus, don't put any money down unless you're going with MSDs).
Completely agree.

MAKE SURE YOU GET DYNAMIC HANDLING PACKAGE IF YOU ARE ORDERING xDRIVE! (If you can still order, if not, find one on the lot with DHP)

Since it's a 2013, and 2014's are hitting lots, you DEFINITELY should be able to get the base money factor (.000121 I think for July, probably same for August)
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      08-01-2013, 01:49 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by dwalls90 View Post
Completely agree.

MAKE SURE YOU GET DYNAMIC HANDLING PACKAGE IF YOU ARE ORDERING xDRIVE! (If you can still order, if not, find one on the lot with DHP)

Since it's a 2013, and 2014's are hitting lots, you DEFINITELY should be able to get the base money factor (.000121 I think for July, probably same for August)
.00120 for xdrive 328
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      08-01-2013, 09:19 PM   #5
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.00120 for xdrive 328
You're the man
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      08-04-2013, 10:53 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JesseS View Post
Don't "dealer hop".

Go to bmwconfig.com, build the car you want, take the invoice price, get the current Money Factor and 10K milage residual, and then email all the dealerships in your area with the exact details of what you want (invoice or just over invoice) and let them come to you.

Money Factor and residual is less for negotiating, if you've got good credit, but you do want to make sure they aren't padding it.

(Plus, don't put any money down unless you're going with MSDs).
Good stuff thank you for the advice! I will give it a shot.
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      08-05-2013, 09:42 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JesseS View Post
Don't "dealer hop".

Go to bmwconfig.com, build the car you want, take the invoice price, get the current Money Factor and 10K milage residual, and then email all the dealerships in your area with the exact details of what you want (invoice or just over invoice) and let them come to you.

Money Factor and residual is less for negotiating, if you've got good credit, but you do want to make sure they aren't padding it.

(Plus, don't put any money down unless you're going with MSDs).
For the money down,
Whats considered down? I see people who say they paid nothing and walked out with a car. Every place I'm talking to is telling me I have to pay tax, title/dmv fees, BMW bank acquisition fees and sometimes 1st month payment. Which of these can I negotiate with if any or does everyone pay these?

I'm going to put in 7 MSD's like everyone recommends but other than that, still looking for options.
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      08-05-2013, 10:00 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by e92er View Post
For the money down,
Whats considered down? I see people who say they paid nothing and walked out with a car. Every place I'm talking to is telling me I have to pay tax, title/dmv fees, BMW bank acquisition fees and sometimes 1st month payment. Which of these can I negotiate with if any or does everyone pay these?

I'm going to put in 7 MSD's like everyone recommends but other than that, still looking for options.
Typically when people say not to put any money down on a lease, they are talking about cap cost reductions to lower the monthly payment. MSDs are always recommended rather than a down payment on a lease.

You will have some drive-off amount owed which does include BMW bank fee ($725 is the minimum amount, but can sometimes get marked up higher), taxes, 1st month payment, and title/DMV fees. None of this is really negotiable I don't think. Most dealers also have a document/administrative fee ranging from $0-$600 from what I've seen. In theory you can negotiate on this, but some dealers may say it's not possible.

Some people take all of these drive-off fees and roll them into the lease financing and literally drive off with no money out of pocket.

Hope that helps clarify things a bit.
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      08-05-2013, 12:03 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by e92er View Post
For the money down,
Whats considered down? I see people who say they paid nothing and walked out with a car. Every place I'm talking to is telling me I have to pay tax, title/dmv fees, BMW bank acquisition fees and sometimes 1st month payment. Which of these can I negotiate with if any or does everyone pay these?

I'm going to put in 7 MSD's like everyone recommends but other than that, still looking for options.
What mtnbiker said. Don't reduce the cap cost with a "down payment" because you'll just be throwing that money away if something should happen to the car (insurance will cover the car itself of course, but your cap cost reduction is gone).

You can basically roll *everything* into the lease if you want, but of course, you'll be paying interest on that. You're on the hook for fees & taxes regardless of what happens to the car, so might as well just pay it straight off and avoid a bit of interest.

I usually do 1st month + fees & taxes at signing, although tax is a bit weird in my state and doesn't get charged at the time of vehicle sale/lease.

MSDs are absolutely the best way to reduce the interest you pay and thus your monthly payment.

If you really like the idea of a "down payment" to reduce monthlies, take the money, put it in a separate account and pay a few payments out of that. Think of the extra interest you pay as "insurance" on that down payment.
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