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      06-26-2013, 12:48 AM   #111
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Originally Posted by J1n View Post
Get some good paint protection opticoat / hardbody/ 2pple i've already got 3 stone chips
Paint protection can/will only do so much..

If you use the car, stone chips, scratches, etc are imminent.

Best to get the whole car resprayed or wrapped in clear vinyl but not many people are going to do that
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      06-28-2013, 04:24 AM   #112
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Originally Posted by bimmer-A View Post
Had the opticoat done today - Kim did a fantastic job!! +1 Detail Evolution for Brisbane folk

Interesting aside - he commented the paint depth on the current 3 series is almost equivalent to a Holden commodore !

Well done bimmer.....Kim is fanatic about quality so you'll love the results
I still get a kick out of the beading effect the opti-coat has, and how much easier it is to clean.

Still have to get something sorted though for the windows....
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      07-26-2013, 08:53 AM   #113
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Hi guys,

For those of you in Adelaide, i just wanted to recommend Elite Finish.

http://www.elitefinish.com.au/

I just got Opticoat for my car and it looks great.

Hamish, went the extra mile for me and squeezed me in on very short notice as i have to go to a country town for the next several months. He stayed in late and allowed me to pick up the car at 9pm.

anyway, if you're interested in the Opticoat, Hamish will look after you
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      07-26-2013, 05:36 PM   #114
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I have had my car for 4 months now. I noticed last weekend when i washed my car that some dirt is stuck to the rear bumper and rear facing boot lid.

I was quite disappointed to see this as i expected the opticoat to prevent this. I wash my car weekly.

I will call dave to see what he has to say, but i assumed paint protection would simply "protect" and make washing easier.
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      07-27-2013, 02:39 AM   #115
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CKau
I have had my car for 4 months now. I noticed last weekend when i washed my car that some dirt is stuck to the rear bumper and rear facing boot lid.

I was quite disappointed to see this as i expected the opticoat to prevent this. I wash my car weekly.

I will call dave to see what he has to say, but i assumed paint protection would simply "protect" and make washing easier.
It does help with that but with the pre condition that you watch it frequently as well you don't want the dirt to bond to it
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      08-02-2013, 07:05 AM   #116
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just got the quote from Reflect Effect for my upcoming F31 touring


1. Standard which includes the following

- Exterior wash
- De-wax
- Paint decontamination
- Alcohol wipe down
- Application of coating to exterior paint

2. Comprehensive (most common) which includes the standard package plus

- Stage 1 (light) machine polish
- Application to paint and exterior plastics

as for a new car, should i go for option 2?
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      08-02-2013, 08:01 AM   #117
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Why would a machine polish be necessary on a brand new car? Can't say the idea appeals to me.
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      08-02-2013, 08:58 AM   #118
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CKau View Post
I have had my car for 4 months now. I noticed last weekend when i washed my car that some dirt is stuck to the rear bumper and rear facing boot lid.

I was quite disappointed to see this as i expected the opticoat to prevent this. I wash my car weekly.

I will call dave to see what he has to say, but i assumed paint protection would simply "protect" and make washing easier.
You are correct. It does make washing the car easier. Easier is the key word, so you still have to physically remove the dirt & grime.

The dirt and contaminants will stick - to the protector and not the clear coat so the good old 2 bucket wash is still a necessity.

I always 2 bucket wash my Hard Body protected car, but the washing is easy. I have even very gently clayed the hood a couple of times when I have felt roughness. Doesn't harm HB. Don't know about O-C.

Just going off on a tangent a little, had a client turn up to my home office in a relatively new, shiny E class convertible. Shame about the MAJOR swirl marks all over the hood. Thank goodness for our cc protectors.
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      08-07-2013, 10:42 AM   #119
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dabaitu View Post
Why would a machine polish be necessary on a brand new car? Can't say the idea appeals to me.
Because 99% of new cars are delivered with flaws.

Also, after decontamination, I would almost always recommend at least a single stage correction just to remove any light swirls of scuffs from the dealers or poor wash technique or from decontamination.

We always give our new cars a single stage polish prior to any coating/sealant application.
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      08-08-2013, 05:00 AM   #120
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TWD View Post
Because 99% of new cars are delivered with flaws.

Also, after decontamination, I would almost always recommend at least a single stage correction just to remove any light swirls of scuffs from the dealers or poor wash technique or from decontamination.

We always give our new cars a single stage polish prior to any coating/sealant application.
OIC, thanks for explaining.
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      08-08-2013, 05:53 AM   #121
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Can someone explain how to maintain a car if one were to get it wrapped to give the matt look?
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      08-08-2013, 06:11 AM   #122
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J1n View Post
Can someone explain how to maintain a car if one were to get it wrapped to give the matt look?
Okay...

So firstly, you'll need to invest in a MATTE maintenance/protection kit.
Usual 2 buckets etc...but you purchase products that don't have gloss "enhancing" properties.

Why? Because matte/satin finishes are designed to absorb light in order to accentuate the lines of a car or a design etc. Makes it look more prominent...

Good example is a matte black M3 we did...guards, bonnet bulge, boat lines look more accentuated and has a pronounced look compared to a gloss black or white M3.


There are things you can't do - clay bar and polishing (for obvious reasons).


When you do purchase a matte/satin painted or wrapped car, you need to ensure the following:

1. Regular cleaning. A build up of heavy contamination is going to be hard/impossible to remove and if removed, it has a tendency to mark paintwork. Also, when matte paints are dirty, they look absolutely terrible.

2. Make sure your utensils are clean. Your mitts, buckets, towels, etc should always be super clean! Chance of marking the paintwork means no chance of paint "correction".

3. Soft pressure. No need to press hard when washing/drying. In fact, pressure has a chance to alter the finish. Think of it as creating heat that leads to polishing/correcting...


SO all in all.....not the easiest paint to work with. Sure, there is no polishing etc but....you need to be careful you don't cause defects in the paint and because you can't polish, the fix is going to be re wrap or re spray.

What kits can you purchase?
I'd stick with Nanolex Matte. Also Dr Beasley's which is great. Swissvax also make a matte line, but it's surpassed by the aforementioned.

Hope this helps you. Feel free to PM or email me if you require any specific answers or any further assistance
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      08-08-2013, 06:21 AM   #123
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J1n, I own a Denim Black Harley, which is a matt black, and I can tell you it is an absolute pain in the arse to look after the paint. You can barely touch it without it getting some sort shine or mark on it and its only a bike.

I couldn't imagine having a car painted/covered in the same sort of material. You can't wash it in the sun because the second the sun hits the water on the paint it dries and leaves all sorts of water marks on it.

Believe it or no I use Windex to clean all the painted parts!

I wish you wel should you go down this path.

H
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      08-08-2013, 06:30 AM   #124
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Originally Posted by HFW003 View Post
J1n, I own a Denim Black Harley, which is a matt black, and I can tell you it is an absolute pain in the arse to look after the paint. You can barely touch it without it getting some sort shine or mark on it and its only a bike.

I couldn't imagine having a car painted/covered in the same sort of material. You can't wash it in the sun because the second the sun hits the water on the paint it dries and leaves all sorts of water marks on it.

Believe it or no I use Windex to clean all the painted parts!

I wish you wel should you go down this path.

H
WOW geez i didn't know it took so much effort lol.. thanks for the word of caution
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      08-08-2013, 06:33 AM   #125
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Thanks for taking the time to explain TWD! It does offer great insight. I saw a matte grey 5 series and a matte black C63.. they looked awesome .. i wasn't sure if we could get that color here in AU.

Quote:
Originally Posted by TWD View Post
Okay...

So firstly, you'll need to invest in a MATTE maintenance/protection kit.
Usual 2 buckets etc...but you purchase products that don't have gloss "enhancing" properties.

Why? Because matte/satin finishes are designed to absorb light in order to accentuate the lines of a car or a design etc. Makes it look more prominent...

Good example is a matte black M3 we did...guards, bonnet bulge, boat lines look more accentuated and has a pronounced look compared to a gloss black or white M3.


There are things you can't do - clay bar and polishing (for obvious reasons).


When you do purchase a matte/satin painted or wrapped car, you need to ensure the following:

1. Regular cleaning. A build up of heavy contamination is going to be hard/impossible to remove and if removed, it has a tendency to mark paintwork. Also, when matte paints are dirty, they look absolutely terrible.

2. Make sure your utensils are clean. Your mitts, buckets, towels, etc should always be super clean! Chance of marking the paintwork means no chance of paint "correction".

3. Soft pressure. No need to press hard when washing/drying. In fact, pressure has a chance to alter the finish. Think of it as creating heat that leads to polishing/correcting...


SO all in all.....not the easiest paint to work with. Sure, there is no polishing etc but....you need to be careful you don't cause defects in the paint and because you can't polish, the fix is going to be re wrap or re spray.

What kits can you purchase?
I'd stick with Nanolex Matte. Also Dr Beasley's which is great. Swissvax also make a matte line, but it's surpassed by the aforementioned.

Hope this helps you. Feel free to PM or email me if you require any specific answers or any further assistance
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      08-08-2013, 07:46 PM   #126
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J1n View Post
Thanks for taking the time to explain TWD! It does offer great insight. I saw a matte grey 5 series and a matte black C63.. they looked awesome .. i wasn't sure if we could get that color here in AU.
No worries Jin. Yes both are available here...

Frozen colours for BMW

And the matte colours for Mercedes are under the Designo program.
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      08-10-2013, 07:22 AM   #127
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Originally Posted by TWD View Post
No worries Jin. Yes both are available here...

Frozen colours for BMW

And the matte colours for Mercedes are under the Designo program.
Thats good to know... maybe a better option is to wrap it instead of paying extra 6k for matte paint
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      08-12-2013, 10:23 AM   #128
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I'm actually planning on getting a pro detailer to apply Opticoat my soon to be daily driver (a white Golf 7) after I've done detailing it, removing swirls and contaminants and all.

I decided to try the OC because I've applied the standard Cquartz (which is also a well know sealant) to my Black 328i but found that the surface scratches VERY EASILY e.g. when I run my fingers across the bumper lip with very minimal dirt present, the surface registers visible lines caused by my finger.

To clarify, I think it's only the Cquartz layer that's experiencing the scratch. Still, very disappointed. It's going to be harder to tell with a white car but it would be a very good side by side comparison.
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      08-18-2013, 06:33 PM   #129
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I just has Opticoat applied to my car yesterday, and I have to say it has transformed the car. It is simply so shiny it almost seems to glow.

Give Dan a call at the Ultimate Detailer if you are in Melbourne. Just mention my name to him!
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      08-18-2013, 08:54 PM   #130
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Originally Posted by IndividualF30 View Post
I just has Opticoat applied to my car yesterday, and I have to say it has transformed the car. It is simply so shiny it almost seems to glow.

Give Dan a call at the Ultimate Detailer if you are in Melbourne. Just mention my name to him!
As a matter of fact, I've already booked him in to do my Golf this coming Saturday. Morrie recommended them to me when I said I'd rather give Opticoat a go this time.

Does Dan know you by your forum name or real name?

It's probably too early for you to comment, but I'm mainly interested in the scratch resistance of the product since I'm sick of my black 328 copping superficial scuff marks from light contact. I was hoping that the Opticoat Pro would be much harder than the standard Cquartz which I used.
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      08-18-2013, 09:08 PM   #131
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Hi,
Yeah he will know, just shot him an email so he is aware. Just contact him through his web site.
http://www.theultimatedetailer.com/


The resistive properties take a while to be fully active, the key dates are:
* Don't drive the car for at least 12 hours after application (keep in the garage).
* Don't wash it for at least 7 days (the longer the better) after application to let the protection cure. Getting the car wet in this time is fine, but don't apply chemicals or anything. (ie don't touch the paint)
* Full chemical resistance is achieved after 30 days. At this point the full benefits should be achieved.

Also it apparently glosses up more over the first couple of weeks as well.

I'm hoping not to scratch my car, but I'm glad it is on there to protect the paintwork.
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      08-18-2013, 10:36 PM   #132
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IndividualF30 View Post
I just has Opticoat applied to my car yesterday, and I have to say it has transformed the car. It is simply so shiny it almost seems to glow.

Give Dan a call at the Ultimate Detailer if you are in Melbourne. Just mention my name to him!
Hi, how much did it cost you for opticoat?
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