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      01-04-2016, 04:59 AM   #1
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N20 known issues, reliability,

Happy New Year from across the pond...
As the title suggests as the proud owner of a 328i, I was wondering if there are any known issues regarding reliability.
The UK F30 site is just a 330/335D "love in"
Whilst the 328i gets slated all the time for poor reliability ...
however I can not find any issues and mine is on the verge of 60K
Thanks
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      01-04-2016, 12:31 PM   #2
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Charge pipe failure, typically from additional boost.
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      01-04-2016, 02:46 PM   #3
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Coolant/oil pump failure leading to oil mix with the coolant. At least that for the 2012 - 2013 models, new ones the pump is made in aluminum instead of plastic.
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      01-06-2016, 05:20 AM   #4
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I was reading the oil filter housing on the early models came with a plastic piece. Over time the plastic housing cracks and let's the oil & coolant mix..
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      01-06-2016, 06:52 PM   #5
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Thanks for the replies... well mine is standard and treat her like a newborn baby...
She runs like a dream and Im loving the cheaper petrol over here currently $6.50 a gallon for 98 RON.
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      01-07-2016, 08:21 AM   #6
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Charge pipe failure, typically from additional boost.
Really? I've heard the 28i CP's hold up well...
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      01-11-2016, 12:21 AM   #7
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Really? I've heard the 28i CP's hold up well...
Exactly mine has stock 17 and i've ran 21-22 for 20k miles now
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      03-16-2016, 10:54 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jrortiz View Post
Coolant/oil pump failure leading to oil mix with the coolant. At least that for the 2012 - 2013 models, new ones the pump is made in aluminum instead of plastic.
What years are the "new ones"?
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      03-16-2016, 12:41 PM   #9
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58K miles on mine no real issues whatsoever.. Hope you get the same out of yours.
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      03-16-2016, 01:24 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Three28iman View Post
Thanks for the replies... well mine is standard and treat her like a newborn baby...
She runs like a dream and Im loving the cheaper petrol over here currently $6.50 a gallon for 98 RON.
6.50 is that U.S dollars ? per gallon.? It just dropped below 2 bucks were I am.
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      03-16-2016, 01:34 PM   #11
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N20 is very reliable unless it's modded. I wouldn't worry.
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      03-17-2016, 02:52 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KGB_123_99 View Post
N20 is very reliable unless it's modded. I wouldn't worry.
Even modded ones are very reliable (as long as you run recommended maps)
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      03-17-2016, 04:19 PM   #13
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Agreed.
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      03-17-2016, 06:28 PM   #14
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n20 seems to have a huge problem with people posting threads with misleading titles instead of just searching and looking up information.
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      03-21-2016, 04:53 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mike@x-ph.com View Post
Even modded ones are very reliable (as long as you run recommended maps)
Wish I could agree. Lost a rod with a JB4 on map2, DP and E25. Definitely an outlier but obviously possible and I know I'm not the only case of this.

As far as unmodded, no further problems with about 20k miles on the stock motor/tune
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      03-21-2016, 04:59 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TurboM View Post
Wish I could agree. Lost a rod with a JB4 on map2, DP and E25. Definitely an outlier but obviously possible and I know I'm not the only case of this.

As far as unmodded, no further problems with about 20k miles on the stock motor/tune
i lost my turbos when car was completely stock ... i got new OE turbos under warranty and have been pushing 3x time stock boost for the last 50k miles



Looking at the bigger picture, we can see that the engine rate failure for tuned cars are not higher than rate failure of stock cars (if car is tuned properly and not pushing crazy boost level)

You had a bad experience and that is very unfortunate but we cannot draw a conclusion based on your experience only. Who is to say your engine wouldnt have failed under stock tune like other cars we have seen on this forum?
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      03-21-2016, 07:38 PM   #17
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Agreed. I have been a Honda and Toyota guy for years. I have had some that have lasted without issues. I have had some that was a problem from the start. I moved over to BMW from a Lexus this time around. Its my first German car in years. It started a little rocky but I expect good things from this gem. You just can beat the style, performance and features. The cars I added mods to seemed to do better than the bone stock ones. It may be in my head but if you drop money on mods, chances are you will go the extra mile to better care for your car.
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      01-10-2021, 04:14 PM   #18
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Reviving an old thread but I've been an owner of a 2012 F30 since 2015 and I have had the coolant tank leak, a low coolant warning on cold start (despite the coolant level being fine. This has never been resolved), and have had a vacuum pump leak. I'm currently on edge because I noticed a slight burning smell again today after parking my car in the garage and I hope it's not the vacuum pump dying out again. I fortunately have a SULEV vehicle and have an emissions warranty in California that covers many parts up to 150k miles. We'll see what happens.
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      01-10-2021, 06:04 PM   #19
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Ive owned two N20 powered vehicles:

2014 328i, purchased at 29k and drove til 95k when it was totaled. Only issue was coolant thermostat failure replaced under warranty. Car was full bolt on and flashed tuned from 60k onwards. Had someone not crashed into me, Id still be driving it.

2016 320, purchased CPO at 45k and currently at 60k. Zero issues. Mostly stock at this point.

In my experience, when properly maintained... the N20 is very reliable. Knock on wood that I dont have another major accident and Ill be driving my current one til 200k miles plus.
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      01-26-2021, 11:20 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sspade View Post
Ive owned two N20 powered vehicles:

2014 328i, purchased at 29k and drove til 95k when it was totaled. Only issue was coolant thermostat failure replaced under warranty. Car was full bolt on and flashed tuned from 60k onwards. Had someone not crashed into me, Id still be driving it.

2016 320, purchased CPO at 45k and currently at 60k. Zero issues. Mostly stock at this point.

In my experience, when properly maintained... the N20 is very reliable. Knock on wood that I dont have another major accident and Ill be driving my current one til 200k miles plus.
What maintenance is important to highlight? I have a 2017 320ix with 27000miles. Ive replaced brake pads and done all the oil changes and brake pads. But what about spark plugs and other things? Any recommendations?
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      01-26-2021, 05:53 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snipagang View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by sspade View Post
Ive owned two N20 powered vehicles:

2014 328i, purchased at 29k and drove til 95k when it was totaled. Only issue was coolant thermostat failure replaced under warranty. Car was full bolt on and flashed tuned from 60k onwards. Had someone not crashed into me, Id still be driving it.

2016 320, purchased CPO at 45k and currently at 60k. Zero issues. Mostly stock at this point.

In my experience, when properly maintained... the N20 is very reliable. Knock on wood that I dont have another major accident and Ill be driving my current one til 200k miles plus.
What maintenance is important to highlight? I have a 2017 320ix with 27000miles. Ive replaced brake pads and done all the oil changes and brake pads. But what about spark plugs and other things? Any recommendations?
1. 30 or 40 weight oil every 5k miles with OEM filter
2. OEM Engine air filter, annual (I use a drop in which I clean/oil)
3. OEM Cabin air filter, annual
4. NGK 97506 Spark plugs every 50k miles
5. Differential/Transfer case oil every 60k miles

Tires, brakes, wipers, ignition coils, etc. as needed.

Do not rev RPM greater than 3k until temp gauge cracks off cold mark.

Use eBrake at all times when parked (engaged before selecting park).



That's about all I can think of. Transmission oil around 60-80k miles is debatable (unless you beat on your car). Blackstone has gone on record and said it's usually not necessary for modern/high tech transmissions, based on their data collection over the past few years. Wouldn't hurt if the ZF procedure is followed to the letter. I wouldn't want some retard winging it based on some tribal shop knowledge from other vehicles.

Last edited by sspade; 01-27-2021 at 10:27 AM..
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      07-16-2021, 01:23 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jrortiz View Post
Coolant/oil pump failure leading to oil mix with the coolant. At least that for the 2012 - 2013 models, new ones the pump is made in aluminum instead of plastic.
What years do the "new ones" refer to?
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