[tardboi]

Hey guys, I slid into a curb late December and since then have been trying to solve the problems. Both right wheels hit. Initially there was a lot of vibration and a pull to the right. Also vibration under moderate to heavy braking/squeaking under light braking (front FR) There was some back and forth from my mechanic and a wheel shop about who should replace parts first; concerns the wheels were bent, etc.

Order of events where things were done went like so:

1. Mechanic -> took car to alignment. Fix the wheels.
2. Wheels replaced
3. Mechanic -> Replaced FR wheel bearing, FR strut, alignment
4. 3rd alignment "everything is fine"
5. 4th alignment "no it's not" "ok, its due to the caster"

From what I can tell, the first alignment group (Tuffy) doesnt know what theyre doing. (Why is the toe messed up AFTER the alignment? Why is the toe actually fine when I took it to richlonns after the 2nd alignment?). It seems that replacing the strut was a waste of money as the alignment shows only a 0.1degree improvement from that.

Richlonns just said take it to an frame shop, they can't fix it. Which I understand; the caster isn't adjustable. Frame shop seems pretty extreme. I called up 3 and none of them want to touch my car.


From googling as best I can, it looks like bent control arms can cause the caster to go out... I'm not sure about 1 degree though. Visually nothing is bent.

I guess what I'm thinking now is just have the front control arms replaced. Alternatively, have camber/caster plates installed in the front. Or.. try to find someone who will pull it. I think there is a chance the RR wheel bearing is shot, too, but I can't see that causing enough friction for the pull. Based on the braking vibration, I suppose the FR rotor is bent a bit, too. The general vibration is all gone; smooth on the highway.

See below for album of alignments:

View post on imgur.com

[Billfitz]

Nothing may be visually bent, but you probably can't see something, or multiple things, that's bent just enough to throw the alignment off.

[tardboi]

Originally Posted by Billfitz

Nothing may be visually bent, but you probably can't see something, or multiple things, that's bent just enough to throw the alignment off.

Based on that and the caster being the only meaningfully off value (that I can tell; I'm no expert)

Would you think going after the front caster with control arms makes sense?

[weehe126]

Originally Posted by tardboi

Based on that and the caster being the only meaningfully off value (that I can tell; I'm no expert)

Would you think going after the front caster with control arms makes sense?

If you replaced the strut already, the control arms would be the next likely cause. Can use it as an excuse to get some monoballs.

[SuperLomi]

So, how does the car drive now?

From an alignment perspective it look fine on that last sheet.

Caster being unequal isn’t the end of the end of the world. 1 degree is maybe a bit more than normal, but for example my car has about 0.5 degree difference just from variation in the assembly. The car may pull very slightly to the right with a “neutral” alignment.

Shortening the LCA would cause caster to decrease, or lengthening the Thrust arm. So I would suspect LCA first. Either the mounting point shifted, or the arm bent.

[tardboi]

Originally Posted by SuperLomi

So, how does the car drive now?

From an alignment perspective it look fine on that last sheet.

Caster being unequal isn’t the end of the end of the world. 1 degree is maybe a bit more than normal, but for example my car has about 0.5 degree difference just from variation in the assembly. The car may pull very slightly to the right with a “neutral” alignment.

Shortening the LCA would cause caster to decrease, or lengthening the Thrust arm. So I would suspect LCA first. Either the mounting point shifted, or the arm bent.

There's a mild pull to the right. "Straight" means steering wheel is 2-3 degrees counter-clockwise. Vibration under braking has faded some; im gonna replace all the brake rotors/pads anyway.

Other than that its great. But steering left all day is annoying

[tardboi]

Originally Posted by weehe126

If you replaced the strut already, the control arms would be the next likely cause. Can use it as an excuse to get some monoballs.

I don't think I want those in wisconsin

[tardboi]

Would this product "solve" the issue? https://k-mac-camber-kits.com/produc...ive-193916-7j/

Im not sure if this is more like band-aiding the caster; or if by matching both front wheel casters with this, it will no longer have a pull (at least none due to caster).. ?

[SuperLomi]

While yes, it would allow you to adjust camber it would be cheaper to just replace the suspension arms.

[tardboi]

Originally Posted by SuperLomi

While yes, it would allow you to adjust camber it would be cheaper to just replace the suspension arms.

That means I'm assuming the issue is the control arms though. Is that the only possiblity? Do both from right arms need replacement?

[mgeller]

Did the same thing and finally figured out why I was pulling only on heavy acceleration last weekend. I replaced all the arms on the right rear with new parts, which created a bushing wear imbalance with my unchanged left rear arms. I swapped the rear left trailing arm with a new one, and everything is great again. DIY is easily under 30 mins start to finish

[MysteriousGas]

if caster is off it’s most likely due to swivel bearing/steering knuckle.