[sensible]

My car was 4 years old last month with 27k miles.
Since Covid I work from home every other week and am part time anyway, so don't use the car as often as I used to.

I had noticed that the powered hatchback often doesn't open in the morning but is fine after I give the car a run.

Today, I got in the car and started it. I got a warning on the idrive saying; "increased battery discharge whilst stationary" I started and drove it, and a the functions were working even the powered hatchback.

The car had been parked for about a week without being used. I had locked and unlocked it during that time and got something out of the boot.

Tomorrow, I am driving to Lincoln and back, about 220 miles.

Do you think the battery is on the way out, or does it just need a good run or even charging with a charger?

[danb1979]

Try an Italian tune up first

But also get a multimeter on it and see what the voltages are; needs to be c12.4v engine off/car asleep and c14.4v with engine running

You could also plug it into a CTEK MXS 5.0 etc - but with its age and lack of use; it may be a time wasting exercise

If no go; get yourself an Exide AGM battery from Tanya and fit that...

Just remember that replacing like for like is easiest, it just needs to be registered to the car and the likes of the Creator C410 can do that, c£55 on Amazon and a handy code reader etc

Or Bimmercode etc can do it too

[Armaan]

I had a similar problem post-covid, when my car was not used at all and just run every few weeks.

My battery was 5 years old at the time and I stuck it on a trickle charger for 6-8 hours - that was December 2020 and I’ve had zero issues since.

You’ve had the first message, wait until you get a “battery discharged” warning and that’s a bigger problem.

Armaan

[HighlandPete]

Originally Posted by sensible

Today, I got in the car and started it. I got a warning on the idrive saying; "increased battery discharge whilst stationary" I started and drove it, and a the functions were working even the powered hatchback.

The car had been parked for about a week without being used. I had locked and unlocked it during that time and got something out of the boot.

Tomorrow, I am driving to Lincoln and back, about 220 miles.

Do you think the battery is on the way out, or does it just need a good run or even charging with a charger?

That warning usually means something is draining the battery. A current draw higher than the threshold closed circuit draw. Not simply a low state of charge (SoC).

Each time I've had that warning, it has been due to one of the Comfort Access door handles failing. Had it about three weeks ago on two occasions, with the additional warning that "consumers had been switched off". Was my N/S rear door handle this time. If your system is shutting off consumers, that can explain your rear hatch not working.

Doesn't mean the battery is really low, if consumers can be switched off by the energy management, it protects the battery SoC. Only if it's a fault, which can't be put out of circuit, does the battery go flat.

You should get a different warning for a low SoC, something like "start engine and drive as the battery is low".

[HighlandPete]

Keep in mind it could actually be the powered boot, particularly if you unlocked and used it and locked again. It could have prevented the car getting back to sleep, or continued to draw current due to a fault developing.

Door locks and actuators are also a source of electrical issues.

[sensible]

Originally Posted by HighlandPete

Keep in mind it could actually be the powered boot, particularly if you unlocked and used it and locked again. It could have prevented the car getting back to sleep, or continued to draw current due to a fault developing.

Door locks and actuators are also a source of electrical issues.

I don't have comfort access, so it rules that out.

I did unlock the hatchback, but it didn't power up, so I pulled it up, got what I wanted out the boot and then pushed it down and it locked, so maybe that caused a problem?

I have BMW comprehensive extended warranty, so if it is a fault then it should be covered (£250 excess). Obviously, a replacement battery isn't covered though.

[TurboWeasel]

I would do some parasitic draw tests before splashing out on a new battery, just to outrule that.

You can get a cheap meter from Amazon with an amp clamp. See what the draw is when the car has gone to sleep. It should be in the 0.1 amp region.

Having said that, 4-5 years is the average lifespan for a battery, so maybe it wouldn't hurt to replace it anyway. I got a Yuasa 95AH AGM from Amazon for £190 and it's a simple DIY job to replace, but at minimum you will need Bimmerlnk to register the new battery, otherwise the BMS (Battery Monitoring System) will keep shoving extra charge in the new battery doesn't need.

When you start the engine after a new battery, you will get a ESP error on iDrive, which is basically the steering needing to relearn, but the error goes away after you've done a few lock to locks, or drive it normally for a few hundred yards.

[sensible]

Originally Posted by TurboWeasel

I would do some parasitic draw tests before splashing out on a new battery, just to outrule that.

You can get a cheap meter from Amazon with an amp clamp. See what the draw is when the car has gone to sleep. It should be in the 0.1 amp region.

Having said that, 4-5 years is the average lifespan for a battery, so maybe it wouldn't hurt to replace it anyway. I got a Yuasa 95AH AGM from Amazon for £190 and it's a simple DIY job to replace, but at minimum you will need Bimmerlnk to register the new battery, otherwise the BMS (Battery Monitoring System) will keep shoving extra charge in the new battery doesn't need.

When you start the engine after a new battery, you will get a ESP error on iDrive, which is basically the steering needing to relearn, but the error goes away after you've done a few lock to locks, or drive it normally for a few hundred yards.

I have never used Bimmerlink. Does the free version allow battery registration or do I need to purchase the full version. Also, how do you connect my phone to the car, I suspect I need some sort of OBD lead?

I am confident ordering and fitting a battery just not the registration.

[danb1979]

Originally Posted by sensible

I have never used Bimmerlink. Does the free version allow battery registration or do I need to purchase the full version. Also, how do you connect my phone to the car, I suspect I need some sort of OBD lead?

I am confident ordering and fitting a battery just not the registration.

You need this:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Vgate-BLE-i...s%2C131&sr=8-5

And a paid version of the Bimmerlink app; I'd also get Bimmercode personally. Handy to have them both

However if you don't feel you'd get their full use; the likes of the Creator C410 code reader will also register a like for like battery to the car; but it won't code a different spec battery


https://www.amazon.co.uk/Creator-Bat...s%2C102&sr=8-5

[sensible]

Originally Posted by danb1979

You need this:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Vgate-BLE-i...s%2C131&sr=8-5

And a paid version of the Bimmerlink app; I'd also get Bimmercode personally. Handy to have them both

However if you don't feel you'd get their full use; the likes of the Creator C410 code reader will also register a like for like battery to the car; but it won't code a different spec battery


https://www.amazon.co.uk/Creator-Bat...s%2C102&sr=8-5

Thanks for the above. I would have to weigh up if its worth spending on those things as I doubt I will use them again.

Halfords charge £27 to fit and register the battery (but I would have to watch that they actually did it.) I have also emailed a local BMW independent to ask what they would charge simply to register a battery.

In the meantime, I have been out to the car with my multi metre. It is showing 12.4 to 12.5 v, and 14.5 with the engine running. I did do my 220 mile round trip to Lincoln though, so maybe it just needed a run. Will have to keep an eye on it and if it keeps discharging.

Also with regard to the second link, you say this would be suitable for registering a like for like battery. Mine is a 90 ah 900A AGM battery. I notice that some of the batteries that say they are compatible are 95 ah and 850A AGM batteries. Would that be considered like for like or not?

[danb1979]

Originally Posted by sensible

Thanks for the above. I would have to weigh up if its worth spending on those things as I doubt I will use them again.

Halfords charge £27 to fit and register the battery (but I would have to watch that they actually did it.) I have also emailed a local BMW independent to ask what they would charge simply to register a battery.

In the meantime, I have been out to the car with my multi metre. It is showing 12.4 to 12.5 v, and 14.5 with the engine running. I did do my 220 mile round trip to Lincoln though, so maybe it just needed a run. Will have to keep an eye on it and if it keeps discharging.

Also with regard to the second link, you say this would be suitable for registering a like for like battery. Mine is a 90 ah 900A AGM battery. I notice that some of the batteries that say they are compatible are 95 ah and 850A AGM batteries. Would that be considered like for like or not?

For me the Creator C410 is well worth having in.

It's a great little code reader, plug n play and small enough to leave in the car etc... And handy for the battery registration!

Itll also read codes if whrn/needed...

Personally I'd rather have that in and do the job myself than let anyone at Halfords near my car.

More so as a new battery can be bought from the likes of Tanya much cheaper too!

But as you've said above it could have been that it just needed a bloody good run...

[HighlandPete]

Originally Posted by sensible

In the meantime, I have been out to the car with my multi metre. It is showing 12.4 to 12.5 v, and 14.5 with the engine running. I did do my 220 mile round trip to Lincoln though, so maybe it just needed a run. Will have to keep an eye on it and if it keeps discharging.

Do keep in mind your warning, "discharging while stationary", isn't indicating a battery failure, but an abnormal current draw. You have likely got a fault, possibly intermittent. Energy management is constantly monitoring the closed circuit draw, if above the threshold, triggers the warning message and if necessary shuts down consumers to protect the battery.

Get a new battery, you could be back in the same place in days or weeks.

[sensible]

Originally Posted by danb1979

For me the Creator C410 is well worth having in.

It's a great little code reader, plug n play and small enough to leave in the car etc... And handy for the battery registration!

Itll also read codes if whrn/needed...

Personally I'd rather have that in and do the job myself than let anyone at Halfords near my car.

More so as a new battery can be bought from the likes of Tanya much cheaper too!

But as you've said above it could have been that it just needed a bloody good run...

Just been looking at the Creator C410 and it doesn't look like it's compatible with my 2019 F36.

"Creator C410 supports BMW & Mini between 2001 to 2018"

[danb1979]

Originally Posted by sensible

Just been looking at the Creator C410 and it doesn't look like it's compatible with my 2019 F36.

"Creator C410 supports BMW & Mini between 2001 to 2018"

Ah hadn't realised the date of yours, the C420 is what you need then IIRC

[sensible]

Originally Posted by danb1979

Ah hadn't realised the date of yours, the C420 is what you need then IIRC

Thanks.
The Creator C420 is about £70
The Vgate iCar Pro BLE 4.0 OBD2 is £26.99, and Bimmerlink is £31.99, so total £58.98.
Local independant BMW quoted £49.99 to register a battery.

So I have a few options if I have ti buy a battery.