[Polo08816]

Originally Posted by Polo08816

Would any of these bushing press kits work as an alternative to the BMW tools?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07SQZTR77...1zcF9kZXRhaWwy

https://www.amazon.com/YUAN-Universa...2-63e904010ad0

Originally Posted by idontlikereverse

I think both of those would work without a doubt. Its a bit tricky without the right tool but I would try going to a hardware tool shop and renting. The one I used only had 3 different sizes for each side and would slip off if it wasnt placed perfectly but worked in the end.

The pushing side can also be a socket if you have one lying around. As long is its just a bit smaller than the diameter of the bushing ur pushing it will work. Of course you can use the new bushing to find something that works/has the correct diameter.

Also if you have a second person around it helps a lot to keep everything in place as you tighten it.

Lastly i think the bushing press tool might be better than the bmw tool. I re created the bmw tool using a long bolt where I could thread it and it would pushing the socket through, but mine was so stuck that it would bend or shear the thread before budging. YMMV and id imagine that the materials they use are stronger to avoid this but still not worth the hassle of getting that tool imo.

So the small ball joint is pretty small for most generic pull/push sleeve kits.

The outer diameter on the smaller ball joint is just under 36mm. You would need a sleeve that has an outer diameter of less than 36mm - maybe 35mm to be safe.

[Polo08816]

Originally Posted by Polo08816

So the small ball joint is pretty small for most generic pull/push sleeve kits.

The outer diameter on the smaller ball joint is just under 36mm. You would need a sleeve that has an outer diameter of less than 36mm - maybe 35mm to be safe.

I was doing a bit more experimenting with this. It appears the issue is what piece of hardware you need to push the smaller ball joint in and out.

My Sunex 6-point 24mm 1/2 drive impact socket barely fits over the smaller bushing and the Sunex 6-point 26mm 1/2 drive impact socket is about the same size but it's possible it's slightly too big once the outer casing of that ball joint is slightly compressed going into the wheel knuckle.

My next step would be to experiment with 12 point 24-26mm 1/2 drive impact sockets to see if they can be used as the installation tool.

[dreaming.haze]

Went through the replacement of these bushings in the past week. Decided to go with BMW specific tooling for both bushings and bite the bullet cost wise. Honestly, using the factory tools, the job itself went smoothly. Easiest part was the removal/install of the bushings themselves. Toughest part is lining up the lower control arm + cradle and the bolts.

Also, needed to replace my Koni Red shock absorbers in the rear. Drivers side was blown out and leaking a bit of oil. Was able to RMA things through Koni. Having the shock absorbers out of the way helped things out with more room to move the tooling around + leave the LCA attached on the body side and not have to adjust the alignment.

Part numbers for those who value them:
Wheel Carrier Bushing: 33326792553
Trailing Arm Bushing: 33326792551
Bushing Tools - Center Rod: 83300496552
Trailing Arm Bushing Tool - Washer: 83302240466
Trailing Arm Bushing Tool - Washer: 83302240472
Trailing Arm Bushing Tool - Spacer: 83302240471
Wheel Carrier Bushing Tool - Washer: 83302240476
Wheel Carrier Bushing Tool - Washer: 83302240469
Wheel Carrier Bushing Tool - Sleeve: 83302240473
Notes: 24mm for the Center Rod nut(ratcheting wrench if possible) \ lube the trailing arm bushing / no lube on the wheel carrier bushing.

[rlesko]

Originally Posted by Polo08816

I was doing a bit more experimenting with this. It appears the issue is what piece of hardware you need to push the smaller ball joint in and out.

My Sunex 6-point 24mm 1/2 drive impact socket barely fits over the smaller bushing and the Sunex 6-point 26mm 1/2 drive impact socket is about the same size but it's possible it's slightly too big once the outer casing of that ball joint is slightly compressed going into the wheel knuckle.

My next step would be to experiment with 12 point 24-26mm 1/2 drive impact sockets to see if they can be used as the installation tool.

Originally Posted by dreaming.haze

Went through the replacement of these bushings in the past week. Decided to go with BMW specific tooling for both bushings and bite the bullet cost wise. Honestly, using the factory tools, the job itself went smoothly. Easiest part was the removal/install of the bushings themselves. Toughest part is lining up the lower control arm + cradle and the bolts.

Also, needed to replace my Koni Red shock absorbers in the rear. Drivers side was blown out and leaking a bit of oil. Was able to RMA things through Koni. Having the shock absorbers out of the way helped things out with more room to move the tooling around + leave the LCA attached on the body side and not have to adjust the alignment.

Part numbers for those who value them:
Wheel Carrier Bushing: 33326792553
Trailing Arm Bushing: 33326792551
Bushing Tools - Center Rod: 83300496552
Trailing Arm Bushing Tool - Washer: 83302240466
Trailing Arm Bushing Tool - Washer: 83302240472
Trailing Arm Bushing Tool - Spacer: 83302240471
Wheel Carrier Bushing Tool - Washer: 83302240476
Wheel Carrier Bushing Tool - Washer: 83302240469
Wheel Carrier Bushing Tool - Sleeve: 83302240473
Notes: 24mm for the Center Rod nut(ratcheting wrench if possible) \ lube the trailing arm bushing / no lube on the wheel carrier bushing.

I'm about to give this a go with a generic kit, I can't stomach paying like $400+ in BMW tools for this job, though I do appreciate the detailed list of all necessary part numbers. I'm a little confused on the recommendations to push through with a 24 mm socket, wouldn't that potentially damage the bushing to be pressing on the inner portion of the bushing?

[Polo08816]

Originally Posted by rlesko

I'm about to give this a go with a generic kit, I can't stomach paying like $400+ in BMW tools for this job, though I do appreciate the detailed list of all necessary part numbers. I'm a little confused on the recommendations to push through with a 24 mm socket, wouldn't that potentially damage the bushing to be pressing on the inner portion of the bushing?

It's possible. It requires some experimentation and probably a bit of time.

I think this comes down to how much down time are you okay with if you find out the tool doesn't work.

Also, I'm not as concerned about destroying the old bushing that you're trying to remove with using the 24mm socket.

Sunex 26mm 12 point socket: https://a.co/d/5RPxKFN
Sunex 25mm 12 point socket: https://a.co/d/jeg5dzF
Tekton 24mm 12 point socket: https://a.co/d/du8qeY1

[rlesko]

Originally Posted by Polo08816

It's possible. It requires some experimentation and probably a bit of time.

I think this comes down to how much down time are you okay with if you find out the tool doesn't work.

Also, I'm not as concerned about destroying the old bushing that you're trying to remove with using the 24mm socket.

Sunex 26mm 12 point socket: https://a.co/d/5RPxKFN
Sunex 25mm 12 point socket: https://a.co/d/jeg5dzF
Tekton 24mm 12 point socket: https://a.co/d/du8qeY1

I don't care about damaging the old one, but what about the new one?

Also, not concerning this thread did you ever replace the rear differential bushing, that apparently requires dropping the subframe?

[Polo08816]

Originally Posted by rlesko

I don't care about damaging the old one, but what about the new one?

Also, not concerning this thread did you ever replace the rear differential bushing, that apparently requires dropping the subframe?

So I had a shop due the rear subframe bushings and replace the factory rear differential bushings with genuine BMW rear differential bushings at the same time since the rear subframe has to be dropped.

Unless your vehicle is going to be a complete track car, I would not recommend replacing the rear differential bushings with any type of solid bushing as it will introduce a lot of NVH.

The rear subframe bushings are another matter. Solid rear subframe bushings do little to increase NVH while helping the rear of the car feel far more responsive and precise.

[rlesko]

Originally Posted by Polo08816

So I had a shop due the rear subframe bushings and replace the factory rear differential bushings with genuine BMW rear differential bushings at the same time since the rear subframe has to be dropped.

Unless your vehicle is going to be a complete track car, I would not recommend replacing the rear differential bushings with any type of solid bushing as it will introduce a lot of NVH.

The rear subframe bushings are another matter. Solid rear subframe bushings do little to increase NVH while helping the rear of the car feel far more responsive and precise.

I wanted to replace the diff bushings with new stock bushings while I’m replacing the diff. It sounds like the rear diff bushing is not really in the same scope of work as the diff replacement, whereas the front diff bushings are. Is that correct?