[KGB_123_99]

This post makes me scared to push my un-modded car now

[1987E30M3]

Originally Posted by Mike@N54Tuning.com

I'd guess they found some sign of modification on the car, a loose bolt from the intake, the coding, evidence exhaust was changed, or something along those lines. Still they should cover a thrown rod. It's not like tuning is going to cause that. You'd have to fight with them over what caused the rod failure. Are you sure you didn't over-rev the motor somehow?

Mike

I am pretty sure it wasn't any one of those reasons. BMW is fully aware of aftermarket tunes and Im sure they have software that detects the modifications the tune does the the DME. The computer most likely stores and records this in logs. When a failure like this happens Im sure they analyze the logs first.

I dont think a lose intake nut, intake or exhaust will void your engine warranty.

Sorry to hear about this brother, I hope everything works out for you.

[vader1]

Originally Posted by 1987E30M3

I am pretty sure it wasn't any one of those reasons. BMW is fully aware of aftermarket tunes and Im sure they have software that detects the modifications the tune does the the DME. The computer most likely stores and records this in logs. When a failure like this happens Im sure they analyze the logs first.

I dont think a lose intake nut, intake or exhaust will void your engine warranty.

.

Well, I would be really curious to see if there was some kind of oil starvation thing going on here but even with a lawyer you got a serious uphill battle.

If they can show you had an aftermarket tune you obviously changed the way the car was designed to run from the factory. The downpipe could also lean things out. The coding aint gonna help because it shows even more tinkering thrown in for good measure. Then I am not sure I would have thrown in the part about doing 80-90 on the freeway either just for the heck of it.

If this was a defect that is BMW's fault, I hope you get your car fixed. But I guess I would have to side with a manufacturer as far as modding goes. I mod my cars at some point, but it only after my warranty is gone because I paid for that warranty and I don't want to waste it. If I design a product, and you change how it functions, I should not have to warranty your change. No matter how safe we think it is, everyone seems to know to pull the JB4 because it can and most likely will void the warranty.

But since I don't know all the potential causes of throwing a rod and your situation, I guess I wish you luck.

I don't go crazy with the autoshift and use my paddles sparingly when passing, but kind of makes you wonder if there is a software glitch that allowed one too many downshifts and over-revved it. From your desciption of events, I read it to mean "I was coming off the freeway at 80-90 and autoshifting (engine braking with a manual downshift) and this happened at about 40mph" and maybe it went down one gear more than it was supposed to.

[Dippydo]

Originally Posted by vader1

Well, I would be really curious to see if there was some kind of oil starvation thing going on here but even with a lawyer you got a serious uphill battle.

If they can show you had an aftermarket tune you obviously changed the way the car was designed to run from the factory. The downpipe could also lean things out. The coding aint gonna help because it shows even more tinkering thrown in for good measure. Then I am not sure I would have thrown in the part about doing 80-90 on the freeway either just for the heck of it.

If this was a defect that is BMW's fault, I hope you get your car fixed. But I guess I would have to side with a manufacturer as far as modding goes. I mod my cars at some point, but it only after my warranty is gone because I paid for that warranty and I don't want to waste it. If I design a product, and you change how it functions, I should not have to warranty your change. No matter how safe we think it is, everyone seems to know to pull the JB4 because it can and most likely will void the warranty.

But since I don't know all the potential causes of throwing a rod and your situation, I guess I wish you luck.

I don't go crazy with the autoshift and use my paddles sparingly when passing, but kind of makes you wonder if there is a software glitch that allowed one too many downshifts and over-revved it. From your desciption of events, I read it to mean "I was coming off the freeway at 80-90 and autoshifting (engine braking with a manual downshift) and this happened at about 40mph" and maybe it went down one gear more than it was supposed to.

With the Stage 2 there is no way to hide the tune. Once you tap the wires, they are marked for life. No codes required with physical evidence.

[Mike@N54Tuning.com]

Originally Posted by Dippydo

With the Stage 2 there is no way to hide the tune. Once you tap the wires, they are marked for life. No codes required with physical evidence.

Those CAN wires don't even run to the engine they run to the CAN gateway, so you can't prove a tune just from two tiny holes on two wires. Still I personally suggest mounting them under the conduit rather than where the install guide suggests so its in a more discrete spot.

Mike

[Serpent720]

This is an old article:

http://www.german**********/content....feet-of-torque

N20 Engine head will crack when tune over 331 lb ft (i.e. 448 NM)

But it sounds like a BMW issue.

I think you must keep pushing BMW to give you good explanation of what causing the problem.

[SergioK]

Adding fuel to the fire... so to speak:

I have heard of an N20/N26 going kaput (unknown if it happened in this same manner, but I will try to find out) via one of the fuel injectors failing.

I was kind of shocked to hear that a fuel injector failure would blow up an engine. Well, these are DI engines and with the extremely high fuel pressures if an injector sticks open it will FLOOD a cylinder causing the engine to hydro-lock. Now, depending on the engine RPM it could, in theory, cause some major damage as noted above.

Most likely the service guys found coding and/or evidence of aftermarket bolt-ons and stopped at that.

[munch520]

Originally Posted by KGB_123_99

This post makes me scared to push my un-modded car now

Why? If it blows, BMW fixes while you drive a loaner. No worries

[WickedC5]

Really curious to find out as to what happened to cause this type of failure. This is the first I've heard of an engine letting go in an F30, modded or not.

[KGB_123_99]

Originally Posted by munch520

Why? If it blows, BMW fixes while you drive a loaner. No worries

True, but no fun to have your engine blow while you're merging onto the freeway in front of an 18 wheeler!!!

Once I had a coil pack go bad on a MKIV Jetta 1.8T just as I was merging in front of a truck. As the car started limping and I saw the truck behind me slam the brakes, what was going through my head was "oh shit oh shit oh shit".

Then again, I'm probably worrying for no reason.

[Steve33]

Tell them to prove it.

Also: http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw...ngine&_sacat=0

[wmandra]

FWIW, the N20 engine has gone through 3 or 4 revisions to the piston. AFAIK these revisions are related to an issue where the wrist pin lets go causing a thrown rod (although its still unclear if this was only in conjunction with high boost caused by a tune). Depending on your date of manufacture and the part # of the piston in your N20, I would use this to your advantage.

01 Piston 4 04/2013 11257640166
01 Piston 4 08/2013 11258617082
01 Piston 4 08/2013 11258606459


459 is the latest revision that is being used in production today. If your pistons are 166 or 082, I would question BMWNA as to why they have changed the pistons being used for production, yet won't warranty your engine.

-b

[Ilovemycar]

Originally Posted by wmandra

FWIW, the N20 engine has gone through 3 or 4 revisions to the piston. AFAIK these revisions are related to an issue where the wrist pin lets go causing a thrown rod (although its still unclear if this was only in conjunction with high boost caused by a tune). Depending on your date of manufacture and the part # of the piston in your N20, I would use this to your advantage.

01 Piston 4 04/2013 11257640166
01 Piston 4 08/2013 11258617082
01 Piston 4 08/2013 11258606459


459 is the latest revision that is being used in production today. If your pistons are 166 or 082, I would question BMWNA as to why they have changed the pistons being used for production, yet won't warranty your engine.

-b

Very interesting thread here....would this piston change also be in the n26 or is that already using updated piston as well?

[wmandra]

Originally Posted by Paul721

Very interesting thread here....would this piston change also be in the n26 or is that already using updated piston as well?

Fairly sure the N26 uses different internals.

[Ilovemycar]

Originally Posted by wmandra

Fairly sure the N26 uses different internals.

I just looked it up. It's part 11258606459. Same as last revision on n20.

[munch520]

Originally Posted by wmandra

Fairly sure the N26 uses different internals.

Nope same internals

[wmandra]

Originally Posted by munch520

Nope same internals

Actually, sorry... the N20 and N26 have the same internals... the different pistons/rods are in the N20/N26 engines in the 320 / 20i variants with the lower power output.

[vader1]

Originally Posted by wmandra

FWIW, the N20 engine has gone through 3 or 4 revisions to the piston. AFAIK these revisions are related to an issue where the wrist pin lets go causing a thrown rod (although its still unclear if this was only in conjunction with high boost caused by a tune). Depending on your date of manufacture and the part # of the piston in your N20, I would use this to your advantage.

01 Piston 4 04/2013 11257640166
01 Piston 4 08/2013 11258617082
01 Piston 4 08/2013 11258606459


459 is the latest revision that is being used in production today. If your pistons are 166 or 082, I would question BMWNA as to why they have changed the pistons being used for production, yet won't warranty your engine.

-b

The OP is (was) driving a 2014. What was the date of the last revision? Unless it was recent, it probably does not apply.

[wmandra]

Originally Posted by vader1

The OP is (was) driving a 2014. What was the date of the last revision? Unless it was recent, it probably does not apply.

the last revision was August 2013, but 2014 models started production in March 2013.

[vader1]

Originally Posted by wmandra

the last revision was August 2013, but 2014 models started production in March 2013.

Are you sure? I got in on an ED order as soon as the factory went into 2014 production because I was specifically waiting for the change to the new model year and I remember June or July. I was near the first batch of 2014's and had my ED in late August.

[wmandra]

Originally Posted by vader1

Are you sure? I got in on an ED order as soon as the factory went into 2014 production because I was specifically waiting for the change to the new model year and I remember June or July. I was near the first batch of 2014's and had my ED in late August.

Positive. I have a 2014 and my build date is 3/15/2013 and my ED was in April.

[Nick the Greek]

Seems an entirely reasonable position for BMW to take.
You mess around with the engine, it goes pop you pay.
Plenty of back street tuners will say they can do better than the factory.
Most can't.
Without a cost.
Surely trying to claim on a warranty after talking the tuning kit off is fraud?