[Chadm]

Weird one for you all... Hopefully we can assist BMW with figuring this one out!

My car has been with the dealer for diagnostics for a week now, and they still haven't figured out the cause of the problem. Currently the help of BMW Germany has been enlisted to see if they can help the dealer get to the bottom of it. Let's see if we can diagnose it faster than them! All suggestions welcome.

Car: 2016 330e B48B20A (UK spec, 118k miles)
Symptoms: "Drivetrain: Check Soon" warning on dash / iDrive. Car drives perfectly fine, no loss of power or any other symptoms.
Diagnostic error code: cd9012 Electric Coolant Pump-related error

Background: Problem started immediately after my go-to indy garage worked on the car (but obviously it wasn't their fault!)
The work carried out immediately before the error appeared was related to oil contamination in the high-temp coolant circuit. Gaskets and coolers were replaced and the fluids flushed out and replaced. That solved the oil contamination problem, but spawned this new one. The indy garage (which I have used for nearly 20 years now) clearly don't know what they are doing, so I've had to revert to my local BMW dealer / service partner.

So far, BMW have gone through all of their available troubleshooting steps. Tested the wiring, the pump, the relevant communication modules, all the usual stuff. The pump works fine and at this point they are at a loss, having to refer back to Germany for a second time. All they have determined with their troubleshooting so far is that the coolant pump in question is receiving 24V of power, when it should be getting 12. But they have no idea why.

Is that even possible to have such a variance on a 12V circuit? I thought the range of fluctuation was usually about 9V-16V on 12V power? Any other thoughts on what this could be? I did think maybe the contaminated coolant that ran through it before the initial problem was fixed might have knackered it, but if it still works then I guess not. Has to therefore be something that has happened whilst that work was being done, in my mind. Hopefully we have some resident experts on hand today...

[mc_tharow]

Same problem here. My car was recently repaired after suffering from a flood damage. Oversized forged pistons, forged rods, new crank, had all 3 pumps replaced, new injectors and many others which are too long to list. The repair was done impeccably well except for this one fault code. However, the mechanic has confirmed that all pumps are working as they should. I’ve har the car for 2 days now and so far there hasn’t been any overheating issues. Coolant temp. stays between 110’C-115’C. I live in Malaysia and it is a very hot country.

[Chadm]

Update for everyone who I guess was left scratching their heads with this one...

It even took BMW 2 weeks to get to the bottom of it. Troubleshooting a fault which was not technically something which was broken proved to be fruitless. They ended up having to repeat the work done by the other garage in order to spot the issue - that a ground connection had not been reconnected. This cost me a further £1000.

Case closed.

-1 for the indy garage.

Anyone ever had any success when it comes to claiming back anything like this? I have a full engineers report from the dealer about what they found...

[AndrewC1989]

Originally Posted by Chadm

Update for everyone who I guess was left scratching their heads with this one...

It even took BMW 2 weeks to get to the bottom of it. Troubleshooting a fault which was not technically something which was broken proved to be fruitless. They ended up having to repeat the work done by the other garage in order to spot the issue - that a ground connection had not been reconnected. This cost me a further £1000.

Case closed.

-1 for the indy garage.

Anyone ever had any success when it comes to claiming back anything like this? I have a full engineers report from the dealer about what they found...

Show it to the indy and negotiate some sort of deal with them. While they may not be open to the idea of giving you that 1000 back in cash perhaps you can get some free services from them (like oil changes, tire rotations, etc.) to offset that cost.

[Bill1234]

2017 330e owner here,

Has anyone encountered an issue with their 330e when the ICE kicks in, it then does not turn off?

Previously, my 330e would start the ICE up here and there when needed, and would always turn off once I'm off the throttle especially in eco pro, but recently I've noticed that the ICE runs for a lot longer even at traffic lights.

I did have an amber warning to say E Drive was not available as the battery temp was high, but then it went back in to edrive with no issues at all 30 seconds later.

Currently no warning lights on, charges up fine, and goes in to Max E Drive fine as well with no changes to electric range.

However I'm worried that once the ICE starts, it doesn't turn off like it used to.

My car has 100k miles, full dealer history I'm the second owner. First owner used the car for motorway journeys a lot and never charged the battery - or so he said.

Thanks,
Bill

[srybicki]

Originally Posted by Bill1234

2017 330e owner here,

Has anyone encountered an issue with their 330e when the ICE kicks in, it then does not turn off?

Previously, my 330e would start the ICE up here and there when needed, and would always turn off once I'm off the throttle especially in eco pro, but recently I've noticed that the ICE runs for a lot longer even at traffic lights.

I did have an amber warning to say E Drive was not available as the battery temp was high, but then it went back in to edrive with no issues at all 30 seconds later.

Currently no warning lights on, charges up fine, and goes in to Max E Drive fine as well with no changes to electric range.

However I'm worried that once the ICE starts, it doesn't turn off like it used to.

My car has 100k miles, full dealer history I'm the second owner. First owner used the car for motorway journeys a lot and never charged the battery - or so he said.

Thanks,
Bill

Check your 12v battery usually that's an issue when ice runs all the time.

[julian204]

Originally Posted by Bill1234

2017 330e owner here,

Has anyone encountered an issue with their 330e when the ICE kicks in, it then does not turn off?

Previously, my 330e would start the ICE up here and there when needed, and would always turn off once I'm off the throttle especially in eco pro, but recently I've noticed that the ICE runs for a lot longer even at traffic lights.

I did have an amber warning to say E Drive was not available as the battery temp was high, but then it went back in to edrive with no issues at all 30 seconds later.

Currently no warning lights on, charges up fine, and goes in to Max E Drive fine as well with no changes to electric range.

However I'm worried that once the ICE starts, it doesn't turn off like it used to.

My car has 100k miles, full dealer history I'm the second owner. First owner used the car for motorway journeys a lot and never charged the battery - or so he said.

Thanks,
Bill

Don't know if you've fixed the issue in the meantime, but I fixed this on my 330e by clearing all the fault codes with Ista. Then went for a drive and all was working like it should. Scanned the car for faults afterwards and it showed 0 codes.