[Madone69]

Hi all.

My BMW base audio system is not great.I want more clarity and loudness, not huge on base.

I am wanting to upgrade my system speakers ie, 2x front door speakers, 2x underseat subs with the below:


1.Vibe Optisound Bmw mids and tweeters and crossovers (I have the A-pillar trims for the tweeters)
2:H&K underseat subs
3.Vibe 4channel LOC
3.Phase Linear 4channel mosfet amplifier
4.Vibe or JBL rear panel Coaxial speakers

1.What is your opinion on these components. Will they work with the least amount of hassle.
2. The H&K subs will they be a direct replacement for my base subs and will this old school Phase linear amplifier be able to power this without issues
3.Can someone provide me supply with the colour code for the wires I would need to cut into at the radio plug for the LOC connection

Many of the components listed by members here are not available in Cape Town or just cost a fortune. I have the amp, the h&k subs and tweeter covers and most of the wiring.

Any advice and guidance would be greatly appreciated.[/QUOTE

[Billfitz]

First things first, there are no magic speakers that will instantly transform your sound, no matter what the advertising says. The best value is going to be used OEM Hi-Fi or H-K speakers being sold by those who believed the advertising.

[Madone69]

Originally Posted by Billfitz

First things first, there are no magic speakers that will instantly transform your sound, no matter what the advertising says. The best value is going to be used OEM Hi-Fi or H-K speakers being sold by those who believed the advertising.

So sourcing a good used set of H-K mids and tweeters and running them via the LOC and amp is first choice. Would I need additional magical items to run them?

[NealfromNZ]

Ok

So HK mids and Tweeters
Base audio 6.5 woofers

Phase Linear 4 channel amp ( is it the 60x4 rms version?


So what I’d do

Run front speakers and underseat woofer off phase linear but channel 1 & 2 running door speakers and tweeters. Set Low Pass filter to around 120 hz

Channel 3 & 4 running underseat woofers
Set HPF at 120hz

Rear speakers , no change to amplification and run off idrive. Change speakers if desired , you want 4 ohm here.

Cabling

Loc between L & R front speaker outputs from BMW ( assuming the Phase linear only has RCA inputs with 2 volt max )

At the moment the front underseat woofers are in line with the front speakers. The doors are connected via the woofer connector. These need to be split apart.
Run phase linear L&R front to door speakers ( connector point is at underseat woofers )

Underseat woofer change. Don’t go HK with amp . Won’t produce enough power into 8 ohm. Hifi or aftermarket 4 ohm or better still two ohm if the phase linear can run two ohm.


Can be done via a Technic PNP bmw base audio conversion wiring set. Alternatively aliexpress has bmw underseat woofer connectors if you’re up for building your own harness.

Amp , find location like left trunk floor where factory amp is installed.

Run fused power connection of suitable gauge wire to amp. You’ll also need a power on circuit. Run this to the rear fuse box. You want to find a point in the fuse box that only comes on with ignition. Get one of those fused piggy back accessories fuse.

Base audio will either power the current speakers either directly from idrive or if you have ASD this wil be the amp

If you have any info on the post here.

https://technicpnp.com

[Madone69]

Originally Posted by NealfromNZ

Ok

So HK mids and Tweeters
Base audio 6.5 woofers

Phase Linear 4 channel amp ( is it the 60x4 rms version?


So what I’d do

Run front speakers and underseat woofer off phase linear but channel 1 & 2 running door speakers and tweeters. Set Low Pass filter to around 120 hz

Channel 3 & 4 running underseat woofers
Set HPF at 120hz

Rear speakers , no change to amplification and run off idrive. Change speakers if desired , you want 4 ohm here.

Cabling

Loc between L & R front speaker outputs from BMW ( assuming the Phase linear only has RCA inputs with 2 volt max )

At the moment the front underseat woofers are in line with the front speakers. The doors are connected via the woofer connector. These need to be split apart.
Run phase linear L&R front to door speakers ( connector point is at underseat woofers )

Underseat woofer change. Don’t go HK with amp . Won’t produce enough power into 8 ohm. Hifi or aftermarket 4 ohm or better still two ohm if the phase linear can run two ohm.


Can be done via a Technic PNP bmw base audio conversion wiring set. Alternatively aliexpress has bmw underseat woofer connectors if you’re up for building your own harness.

Amp , find location like left trunk floor where factory amp is installed.

Run fused power connection of suitable gauge wire to amp. You’ll also need a power on circuit. Run this to the rear fuse box. You want to find a point in the fuse box that only comes on with ignition. Get one of those fused piggy back accessories fuse.

Base audio will either power the current speakers either directly from idrive or if you [...]

Thanks very much.
So I finally figured out how to attach pics below.
I don't have crossovers(cannot source the parts for Billfitz units either)...was think about the DSP as per pic below also - your opinion and advice?
I already have the underseat HK woofers...so this will not work with this amp?
LOC - do I go for a 2or4 channel as per pic below. I am comfortable to run new wiring between components if needed.

Any thoughts, suggestions and advice would be appreciated.

Thanks in advance.

[NealfromNZ]

Not sure about the dsp. Haven’t seen that brand before. The manufacturer has no manuals so couldn’t comment eitherway.


Do you know how much power the phase linear amp makes ? No specs to be found.

[Madone69]

Originally Posted by NealfromNZ

Not sure about the dsp. Haven’t seen that brand before. The manufacturer has no manuals so couldn’t comment eitherway.


Do you know how much power the phase linear amp makes ? No specs to be found.

I have no specs for the amp unfortunately. I know it powered 2x12inch JLAudio before I got it. I only powered a 12v Rockford.
The dsp is a rebranded Stetsom STX2848 - specs attached.

[NealfromNZ]

DSP looks like it will work and can provide the lpf and HPF for front door and underseat woofers. So try a HPF of 120hz LPF on the doors. And a LPF of 120hz and HPF of 30 hz on a the underseat woofers. Used 24db for slope and use Linkwitz–Riley crossover filters. They have a good suming between underseat woofer and door mid bass. For door tweeter to mid bass make sure there is a factory capacitor on the tweeter otherwise easy to blow.

With Bills crossover component list you could source alternatives in South Africa of via aliexpress. Parts Express are no longer viable internationally as they have high freight costs post Covid-19.

Get the 4 channel Loc as that would give you an option to run a second four channel amp for read doors and a trunk sub later on.

Amp wise it will run the HK woofers , it just won’t make as much power due to 8 ohm load. I’m guessing based on large heat sinks and 30 Amp fuse rating is probably class A/B with around 60 watts x 4 so you’ll get half that rating into the Harman Kardon woofers. The Harmans are reasonably efficient, just balance the output of to the front door and woofers via gain control on dsp.

For time alignment in dsp have a look at the table in my base audio build a few pages in and use the mid door bass and underseat right hand drive values.

[Madone69]

Thanks very much for this guidance. I will get the dsp and do the install and revert with the findings. Much appreciated 🙏