05-28-2016, 09:33 AM | #1 |
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28i 308BHP
Well, finally done some dyno this morning and recorded an 308Bhp - think could get even higher figures if had a better intercooler.
Also last night had a play against my mates 135iM doing rolling starts from 30 Mph upwards - and everyone even me was shocked that the 135iM was not pulling ahead - they both were very similar in performance. But over 100 Mph the 135Mi was creeping forward. Has anyone used/tryed an intercooler spray?
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05-31-2016, 08:32 AM | #5 |
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I have purchased some BMW cats from scrap merchants - and bashed the cat out.
So externally they look original I have my original CAT in the garage - so I can make it original is and when required.
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05-31-2016, 12:39 PM | #6 |
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That's awesome! I know you have jb4 but do you know if that would still throw a code? Back when I had my turbo cobalt SS I did the exact same thing so it looked factory for warranty visits
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05-31-2016, 01:10 PM | #7 | |
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Yes I spray my intercooler. I rigged up an extra windscreen washer bottle in the engine bay behind of the right headlight (US LHD model), ran some tube down to the front of the FMIC, where I split it with a T and place a couple garden spray misting nozzles directed at the intercooler as far forwards as possible. Then I ran a wire inside to a hidden toggle switch. The circuit is closed by connecting the pump (which is part of the bottle) to the positive in the engine bay, and Ground inside by the switch. It completely sprays the intercooler. In summer (which here can be 100 days above 100F) it makes a huge difference. I could go into the science more (it's what I do for work - indirect evaporative cooling), but simply it's not just about working the IAT against the outside ambient wetbulb temperature (which is pretty much always lower than the drybulb), but increasing the heat rejection effectiveness of the FMIC by replacing the outside medium with a fluid (water instead of air) that has a greater specific heat capacity (meaning it can absorb more heat) and also through the evaporative effect allows for state change (i.e. Latent vaporization), which actually pulls more heat out. I should mention I also have a larger ATM FMIC, which definitely helps with heat soak. Mine virtually doesn't ever heat soak (even in the track), and when I feel it coming (or watching the IAT rise) I hit it with the spray. Works like a charm! Maybe in future I could add a small control circuit that would automatically activate the pump for 10 seconds when a setpoint IAT was hit. |
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06-15-2016, 08:36 AM | #8 |
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How long do you run your spray for 2 secs or 10 secs?
As I think 20 secs my tanks will be emptied lol
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06-20-2016, 01:24 AM | #9 | |
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06-22-2016, 05:47 PM | #10 |
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Since this is a hot topic now..STD/SAE or Uncorrected to hit the 308hp? I'm curious to see what is being used/reported now
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06-23-2016, 03:45 AM | #11 |
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Sorry for been thick, do not understand the question and the technical terms you have used.
STD = Standard SAE = ????? Uncorrected?
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06-23-2016, 12:36 PM | #12 | |
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At the top of the Dyno Sheet..it usually says CF/SAE or CF/STD or CF/Uncorrected...along with Smoothing Factor 0 through 5. ON your posted dyno sheet, it cuts off the right side of the dyno report and wonder if its SAE (industry standard), STD..(also a standard but supposedly overstates the power by about 4%, or uncorrected..which is 'unacceptable' in the industy...... hope that helps
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06-23-2016, 01:40 PM | #13 |
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Yes it does - many thanks.
However my dyno does not show this info. I am planning in doing another dyno - but this time I will manage my heat soak
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06-23-2016, 04:04 PM | #14 |
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Just realized yours could also be "DIN"...european measurement....lol.
Impressive numbers, nonetheless!
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