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BMW 3-Series and 4-Series Forum (F30 / F32) | F30POST > Technical Forums > Suspension | Chassis | Brakes > M235 / M240 Rear Sway Bar (15mm)
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      06-22-2018, 09:43 AM   #1
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Just picked one of these up locally for a song. Actually going to physically get it in a few hours in Sacramento. Guy has a second one too, if anyone is interested!

Trying to determine whether or not I should attempt install myself on jack stands. Some claim that they were able to DIY this without a lift in about two hours.

Any tips or tricks to getting this done?

Any special tools that I may need to source, prior to attempting?

For the record, I have installed all of my mods myself in my garage. No one has touched my vehicle other than the dealer and I plan to keep it that way. If this is possible without having to buy any expensive tools, I am capable of getting it done.

Just want to make sure I have all my ducks in order before I start.

Any thoughts/help/opinions are greatly appreciated!
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      06-24-2018, 04:08 PM   #2
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Ended up buying both bars. Let me know if anyone wants the second one!

I can meet in Sacramento or San Francisco area.
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      06-25-2018, 07:06 AM   #3
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I'm with you .. I do all my own work and hate the thought of having to use a shop. I even hate using the dealer for the free maint.

But, even after the coilovers, the body roll is so bad still, I'm going to have to do sway bar(s). There's so much slop in the chassis. I'm not sure yet if I need to do the front AND rear or just the rear. I think both. I'm pretty against doing the front one on jackstands .. I think it would quickly turn into a regrettable project. But the rear, I imagine can't be _that bad. A second person would probably be necessary.

The other thing with a rear sway bar is the open diff. It'd be much more of a one legger with a good bar. Open diff sucks. I'm considering getting an LSD first (which is kinda weird for xdrive, but it's been done). And I'd like to do the LSD install and rear bar at the same time. And then there are some special tool costs for the diff. All things considered, the best option may be to find a good indy bimmer shop and let them deal with the whole project. Which is no fun, but would save a ton of frustration.

If only my garage ceiling could fit a 2 post lift .. this would all have been done already ....
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      06-25-2018, 01:11 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YuminNuman View Post
I'm with you .. I do all my own work and hate the thought of having to use a shop. I even hate using the dealer for the free maint.

But, even after the coilovers, the body roll is so bad still, I'm going to have to do sway bar(s). There's so much slop in the chassis. I'm not sure yet if I need to do the front AND rear or just the rear. I think both. I'm pretty against doing the front one on jackstands .. I think it would quickly turn into a regrettable project. But the rear, I imagine can't be _that bad. A second person would probably be necessary.

The other thing with a rear sway bar is the open diff. It'd be much more of a one legger with a good bar. Open diff sucks. I'm considering getting an LSD first (which is kinda weird for xdrive, but it's been done). And I'd like to do the LSD install and rear bar at the same time. And then there are some special tool costs for the diff. All things considered, the best option may be to find a good indy bimmer shop and let them deal with the whole project. Which is no fun, but would save a ton of frustration.

If only my garage ceiling could fit a 2 post lift .. this would all have been done already ....
Definitely one of my life goals to have a garage or out building on site with enough room for a proper lift. They are really not that expensive if you have the room.

Also want to upgrade to an LSD but it will be a while for me. I have been looking at the AC Schnitzer option and suggest you do as well. I've been quoted $4,000 for the unit alone. Not sure how that compares to the BMW option?

I'll probably be tearing into the rear bar install this week... Why do you think Ill need two people? Obviously a helping hand is always better than not but is there a specific reason why? Believe it or not, Ive managed to install every one of my mods with zero help. Im sure I made it harder on myself and more stressful but Im new to the West Coast and dont have any friends or family around besides my girlfriend lol.
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      06-25-2018, 01:13 PM   #5
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Im nervous about exactly what is involved with "lowering" the rear cradle/subframe. I dont have air tools but I do have an impact wrench and a decent collection of hand tools. Trying to figure out if I need to pick anything else up prior to starting....

Anyone who has completed this, please share thoughts!
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      06-25-2018, 01:46 PM   #6
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That thing is really heavy. If you have to guide it around at all having a buddy to help would be useful. I always like to have a second person around when I'm under the car .. just to hand me beers and maybe jack it back up and call 911

If by yourself you'll definitely want one of those hydraulic table carts. Check tommyfyeah on youtube .. he uses that all the time to drop e36 subframes, and even with one it looks a lot easier with a second hand. A good battery impact should hit hard enough. If not a breaker bar with the 6ft cheater pipe should get them loose. Though you can't beat a good air gun - totally worth it.

"Engage special tool 31 5 250 with a 2nd person helping completely on workshop jack 00 2 030 ."

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f...ort/Gzx8s65kqq
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      06-25-2018, 02:01 PM   #7
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Thanks for the info.

There is a member on here from Europe who claims to have installed his in about 2 hours, on jack stands (therefore without the special subframe jack).

Need to do more homework before I attempt...
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      06-28-2018, 11:22 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YuminNuman View Post
I'm with you .. I do all my own work and hate the thought of having to use a shop. I even hate using the dealer for the free maint.

But, even after the coilovers, the body roll is so bad still, I'm going to have to do sway bar(s). There's so much slop in the chassis. I'm not sure yet if I need to do the front AND rear or just the rear. I think both. I'm pretty against doing the front one on jackstands .. I think it would quickly turn into a regrettable project. But the rear, I imagine can't be _that bad. A second person would probably be necessary.

The other thing with a rear sway bar is the open diff. It'd be much more of a one legger with a good bar. Open diff sucks. I'm considering getting an LSD first (which is kinda weird for xdrive, but it's been done). And I'd like to do the LSD install and rear bar at the same time. And then there are some special tool costs for the diff. All things considered, the best option may be to find a good indy bimmer shop and let them deal with the whole project. Which is no fun, but would save a ton of frustration.

If only my garage ceiling could fit a 2 post lift .. this would all have been done already ....
I actually went with a set of dinan sways for my 340i and against what people recommend I went middle stiff both bars on an open LSD. My rear comes out even less than stock with my increased power as well. I'm debating going full stiff but that may be overkill on the back.
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      06-28-2018, 11:50 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 440iGCCB View Post
I actually went with a set of dinan sways for my 340i and against what people recommend I went middle stiff both bars on an open LSD. My rear comes out even less than stock with my increased power as well. I'm debating going full stiff but that may be overkill on the back.
Did you install yourself?
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      06-28-2018, 03:00 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sspade View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by 440iGCCB View Post
I actually went with a set of dinan sways for my 340i and against what people recommend I went middle stiff both bars on an open LSD. My rear comes out even less than stock with my increased power as well. I'm debating going full stiff but that may be overkill on the back.
Did you install yourself?
I had a shop do it. I spent too much time working on my cars in the past
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      06-28-2018, 04:08 PM   #11
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I definitely think I can do the rear. I'm warming up to it. Still not into the front at all. The HF table cart is a must. Keep in mind you have to get the thing back up and IN which is going to be a little harder than just lowering it.

https://www.harborfreight.com/1000-l...art-69148.html .. have to modify the handle so it goes back the other direction, can be done

Bolton tool makes really nice ones

Last edited by B58 parts; 06-28-2018 at 04:38 PM..
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      07-01-2018, 11:08 AM   #12
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I'm considering having Niello BMW fit this bar for me. I'm getting tired of looking at it in my garage and can't seem to muster the balls to attempt myself on jack stands. No idea how people claim to do this without a lift or proper subframe support... in a couple hours nonetheless...

How much have others paid to have this done by the dealer?

Anything I'm missing with the install that would make it easier?
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      07-02-2018, 02:29 AM   #13
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Rear sway bar alone I would say 2h work is needed, doing on your own is quite difficult;
you need to lower the subframe indeed so that involves:
- removing exhaust
- lowering subframe while holding it + diff in place with hydraulic lift
- wiggle old bar out, and new bar in
- put everything back into position

We went through that twice, about two hours each time.
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