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BMW 3-Series and 4-Series Forum (F30 / F32) | F30POST > Technical Forums > Cosmetic and Lighting Modifications (exterior & interior) > Goodbye Yellow UGLINESS! Halogen to LED Bulb Retrofit (DRL, Parking Lights, H7)
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      06-02-2016, 12:27 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PelotonToPodium View Post
illusionx If you're hesitant about coding, check these out. Keep in mind, these resistors get REALLY HOT and you risk melting other wires / plastics if you don't zip-tie or mount them properly.

Let me know if you have any other questions!
Will check them out. thanks
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      06-04-2016, 12:49 AM   #24
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Why don't you just get the car coded so these lights switch off when headlights are on
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      06-05-2016, 12:30 PM   #25
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That was my first intent but upon looking further, found that individual lights cannot be coded on or off. Plus, now that everything matches...it actually looks decent and is no longer an eyesore
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      06-06-2016, 09:31 AM   #26
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9600 LM led for low beam

Dear All,
I have recently changed my halogen to 9600 LM led.Attached picture.I am very happy with the quality but have problems with cutting line.Any suggestion?
Attached Images
  
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      06-07-2016, 10:07 AM   #27
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Just wondering if anyone has tried to replaced their halogen with these ones?

https://bimmian.com/Accessories-for-...og-Light-Bulb/

Apparently error free...

Interested to see if anyone has used them and their thoughts. Cheers.
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      06-07-2016, 10:50 AM   #28
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This LED has received very good reviews on the BMW K1600 motorcycle forum as a headlight replacement:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/262307059160...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

It's available in a 5000 degree K color temperature, which should look fairly similar to the 4300 K HID headlights on my F36.

I plan to try it out for my F36 fog lights. I'll post results if it works.
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      06-09-2016, 06:15 PM   #29
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I replaced my DRL with LED, and H7s with phillips diamond, the two I have left are the blinkers and parking lights...are there good halogen options? I don't really wanna get into the coding, and resisters, etc.
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      04-21-2017, 03:44 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PelotonToPodium View Post
Like many, this quest began very shortly after taking ownership of my amazing F30! LED / Xenon options were sadly not part of the discussion, therefore I made it my mission to eliminate those gosh darn repulsive halogen bulbs.

BEFORE - Sorry about the potato quality photo, I'm not really sure how to photograph...light




The decision process was relatively simple. I wanted white light, effective light, and safe light. 80% of my driving is done before sunrise and after dark, so I needed a solution that would not compromise my safety and visibility. Additionally, I wanted to ensure that anything I put in my car would not produce excessive and unnecessary glare to other drivers. As you can tell already, this severely limited my H7 options. In my eyes, LED H7's are just not there yet. They scatter like crazy and flicker for unexplainable reasons. So, I went with the Philips Diamond Vision H7 Halogen Bulb. Yes, it's most likely a regular bulb dipped in some food coloring to give it that bluish-white tint....but it's a real H7 and the visibility is just fine.


Moving on to DRLs and Parking Lights. These lights function primarily for aesthetics and "daytime road visibility", so the negative effects of LED's at night didn't really come into factor. I decided to try out iJDM's PW24W LED DRL with built in CANBUS Error Code Eliminators as well as their H6 LED Parking Lights with supplied LED Warning Canceler (resistors).







Installation was simple. The only thing to note was that I had to ziptie the parking light resistors in a way that prevented them from touching anything. These buggers get HOT and will most likely melt wires and plastic (I'll be keeping an eye on these and will report back).





Post-installation, I left the DRL's and parking lights on for approximately 30 minutes. The parking lights functioned flawlessly- not a single flicker or hesitation (thank you resistors). The DRL's were a bit more tricky. Upon startup, I saw the DRL's doing what I assumed was a cold check but after that, I did not see anymore checks or flickers. Again, this part is in progress. It'll be hard (obviously) to see if my DRL's are flickering, so I will be conducting more tests in the near future to see if these are truly error free.

3/15 Update: Confirmed, DRL does indeed flicker. Not really a shock as I was aware of cold/warm checks but worth mentioning. I will be coding out the cold/warm checks for my PW24W DRLs and H6W Parking Lights to eliminate need for resistors.

AFTER - While it may look blue-ish, in person it is a pure white!




That's it for now & feel free to ask any questions! Enjoy!
Thanks for blinding the rest of us with your glaring bulbs not designed for the reflector they're in.
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      06-05-2017, 04:14 PM   #31
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Hi everyone,

I went through the post a number of times. I have a couple of queries.

Firstly, I bought my 2013 BMW 328i recently, unfortunately with the halogen housings. I replaced
1. High/Low beams with H7 Phillips Diamond Vision - 5000k
2. PW24W Parking Bulbs with iJDMTOY 42-SMD - 6000k
3. 13-SMD-5050 DRLs with iJDMTOY 5050 SMD - 6000k

Its a much cheaper option, than to change the entire housing for sure. Now, I was quite happy with arrangement until I found out about the varying color temperature. Both my Parking bulbs and DRL's are at 6000k color temperature but I could not find Halogen H7's with 6000k, the Phillips ones are 5000k. Other way round, I could not find DRL's and parking lights of 5000k.

The parking lights and the low beams light up together and color difference looks so off between the two. I love the look of 6000k bluish white light.

Has anyone able to find 6000k H7 halogens online ? or maybe 5000k PW24W LEDS ?

My second question is I have 2 pairs of H7 Auxbeam F-S2 series LEDs lying around. They are good bright 6000k LEDs for both high beams and low beams, alas they do not fit the F30 halogen housings, given the fact that I can code warm and cold checks, is it possible for me to use a converter for the same, I tried two of the converters from amazon but none of them fit.
Does any one know a set of LED's or converters for the above H7's that fit F30 halogen housings ?

I know its a long post, but I just hope some one would reply ? Your help is appreciated.
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      06-05-2017, 04:51 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by amritanshukar View Post
Has anyone able to find 6000k H7 halogens online ?.
There's no such thing. Those that claim to have higher than 3000k are playing fast and loose with the facts. They look whiter, because the envelopes are tinted blue. Worse, that tint reduces the lumens output.
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      06-08-2017, 12:17 AM   #33
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Did all the iJDMToy bulbs as mentioned here, except the headlights. I probably should've gone the Philips Diamond Vision route for my low beams instead of the HIDs, but I have just ordered the Depo Projector headlights, so the HIDs will work great on those.
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      06-11-2017, 12:39 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by amritanshukar View Post
...

Has anyone able to find 6000k H7 halogens online ? or maybe 5000k PW24W LEDS ?

.....
PW24W is for DRL light. You need to look for H6W/BAX9s with 5000K color temperature.
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      06-13-2017, 03:29 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by THEBLACKDAHLIA View Post
Thanks for blinding the rest of us with your glaring bulbs not designed for the reflector they're in.
Perhaps you missed the part where I explicitly mentioned sticking with Halogen H7's- as my goal was not to blind drivers with H7 LED's, etc.

Last edited by PelotonToPodium; 06-21-2017 at 04:29 PM..
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      06-14-2017, 08:20 PM   #36
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hello guys if anyone wants to upgrade to full LED please message me. I will send you all bulbs needed and lumens as follows this kit doesn't produce any error but needs coding which i will provide remotely.

DRL 50w
Signals 30w
Parking 7w
Fog Light 8000 or 12000 lumens
Low beam 8000 or 12000 lumens
High beam 5000 ot 8000 lumens

Here is how it looks

https://m.facebook.com/pg/fseries.cr...70577699787942
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      06-15-2017, 01:40 AM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PelotonToPodium View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by THEBLACKDAHLIA View Post
Thanks for blinding the rest of us with your glaring bulbs not designed for the reflector they're in.
Perhaps you missed the part where I explicitly mentioned sticking with H7's- as my goal was not to blind drivers with H7 LED's, etc.
I guess I did. Withdrawn.
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      06-15-2017, 02:58 AM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by amritanshukar View Post
Hi everyone,

I went through the post a number of times. I have a couple of queries.

Firstly, I bought my 2013 BMW 328i recently, unfortunately with the halogen housings. I replaced
1. High/Low beams with H7 Phillips Diamond Vision - 5000k
2. PW24W Parking Bulbs with iJDMTOY 42-SMD - 6000k
3. 13-SMD-5050 DRLs with iJDMTOY 5050 SMD - 6000k

Its a much cheaper option, than to change the entire housing for sure. Now, I was quite happy with arrangement until I found out about the varying color temperature. Both my Parking bulbs and DRL's are at 6000k color temperature but I could not find Halogen H7's with 6000k, the Phillips ones are 5000k. Other way round, I could not find DRL's and parking lights of 5000k.

The parking lights and the low beams light up together and color difference looks so off between the two. I love the look of 6000k bluish white light.

Has anyone able to find 6000k H7 halogens online ? or maybe 5000k PW24W LEDS ?

My second question is I have 2 pairs of H7 Auxbeam F-S2 series LEDs lying around. They are good bright 6000k LEDs for both high beams and low beams, alas they do not fit the F30 halogen housings, given the fact that I can code warm and cold checks, is it possible for me to use a converter for the same, I tried two of the converters from amazon but none of them fit.
Does any one know a set of LED's or converters for the above H7's that fit F30 halogen housings ?

I know its a long post, but I just hope some one would reply ? Your help is appreciated.
i can help you out with what you are looking for buddy, please explain more about the auxbeam are they h7's? or different socket?
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      06-16-2017, 12:17 PM   #39
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Good to know the 3 series just uses H7

The wife has only had her 330e for 4 days but the one time I turned the lights on the yellowness annoyed me.
I thought all 330e's had LED lights but we needed and M-Sport not just a sport.

Luckily I have spare nightbreakers or diamond vision to chose from.

Does the light housing cover have a warranty sticker on it like some other manufacturers.
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      07-24-2017, 05:05 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rustyminded View Post
Hey man message me I have the codes for all lights you don't need resistors throw them away.. this was my project as a starter and i succeeded in turning all lights to LED without changing headlight
Can you PM message me the codes for parking lights and drl pleeeeeease I changed the drl and parking lights to led no errors but theblinking is there
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      08-05-2017, 05:04 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SIRI_F30 View Post
Can you PM message me the codes for parking lights and drl pleeeeeease I changed the drl and parking lights to led no errors but theblinking is there
Those should work
DRL
TFL_L_KALTUEBERWACHUNG > nicht_aktiv (cold check/left)
TFL_L_WARMUEBERWACHUNG > nicht_aktiv (warm check/left)
TFL_L_IS_LED > aktiv (bulb recognised as LED/left)
TFL_R_KALTUEBERWACHUNG > nicht_aktiv (cold check/right)
TFL_R_WARMUEBERWACHUNG > nicht_aktiv (warm check/right)
TFL_R_IS_LED > aktiv (bulb recognised as LED/right)

parking
TFL_S_L_KALTUEBERWACHUNG > nicht_aktiv (cold check/left)
TFL_S_L_WARMUEBERWACHUNG > nicht_aktiv (warm check/left)
TFL_S_L_IS_LED > aktiv (bulb recognised as LED/left)
TFL_S_R_KALTUEBERWACHUNG > nicht_aktiv (cold check/right)
TFL_S_R_WARMUEBERWACHUNG > nicht_aktiv (warm check/right)
TFL_S_R_IS_LED > aktiv (bulb recognised as LED/right)
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      11-21-2017, 02:46 PM   #42
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what is the purpose of the cold/warm checks? i.e. what are we giving up by coding them out? some safety check?
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      11-21-2017, 03:13 PM   #43
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The cold/warm checks send a series of short pulses to the bulbs to be sure they're working. Those pulses are too short in duration to heat the filaments in halogens enough to light up. LEDs don't heat to create light, and they react more or less instantly, so cold/warm checks will cause them to blink rapidly for a few seconds every five minutes or so. Resistors won't stop it, canbus ballasts won't stop it. Only coding will stop it. If you do have a bulb blow you won't get a warning, so you'll just have to notice it the old fashioned way: It's darker driving with a blown bulb.

In fairness to BMW the hot/cold checks tell you if a bulb is blown during the day, when the lights aren't on, so in theory you can get a new bulb put in before it gets dark. But I haven't had a bulb blow in at least 30 years, so the need for that particular technology is dubious.
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      11-21-2017, 03:24 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Billfitz View Post
The cold/warm checks send a series of short pulses to the bulbs to be sure they're working. Those pulses are too short in duration to heat the filaments in halogens enough to light up. LEDs don't heat to create light, and they react more or less instantly, so cold/warm checks will cause them to blink rapidly for a few seconds every five minutes or so. Resistors won't stop it, canbus ballasts won't stop it. Only coding will stop it. If you do have a bulb blow you won't get a warning, so you'll just have to notice it the old fashioned way: It's darker driving with a blown bulb.

In fairness to BMW the hot/cold checks tell you if a bulb is blown during the day, when the lights aren't on, so in theory you can get a new bulb put in before it gets dark. But I haven't had a bulb blow in at least 30 years, so the need for that particular technology is dubious.
makes sense. sort of... thank you!
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