[mhdelarosa]

Originally Posted by VANOS

Wow! Thats horrible man! Straight up ridiculous! :/ i would have been soo pissed. Well i am only using 91 from Chevron lol. From what terry was saying so far its been safe but i dont know if i should take the risk it or not. So you have it on four right now and are only using 93? Have you tried 91?

Before you consider upping the boost +1, did you figure out yet why you weren't getting 0-60 times as fast as before? Confirmed it was the gas quality?

[mrtorque]

Originally Posted by VANOS

Hey guys,

I am having an issue with my BMS. I don't know if it's me or its the chip, but I am not getting the same power as i was before. I have noticed it for a week and a half now and i decided to do several 0-60 runs. It was a cold night, clear night. It was 59 degrees. My first run i got 5.8, second 5.8, third 5.7, last 5.9... I don't know whats going on, but i am hoping its just me. Before in the same weather and same way i have been testing, i would get 5.5 - 5.3!!! not i am getting 0-60 times like as if its a stock car (5.8)

I truly hope its just me. Any reason why its acting this way? I would appreciate the help!

I would be interested to know about this +4 psi over stock with 91 too (its hard to find anywhere that has 93 where I live). If its safe or not cause i run +3.
But I have experienced a loss in power as well and I have posted about it in the past. My solution: I just remove the tune for a couple of days then I put it back on and it feels great. Its good for about a month and half then it clearly does not feel the same again just like you described. So then I repeat and the cycle continues. Im glad to hear Im not the only one experiencing it, doesn't really bother me too much but would love to know the reason as well. I doubt its the quality of gas I usually get chevron 91 and fill it myself

[mrtorque]

Originally Posted by VANOS

Well thats the thing, indont know what it is. Terry was saying everything looks good. But i dont know brotha. To be honest i dont feel comfortable enough to leave the the boost at +4 and especially if he is telling me they have had it like that for a few months and that i need to get a NOS octane booster with MMT. Rwgardless im still getting the same 0-60 time. I think im going to sell it and make the switch to AFE :/

Ah man, well I wouldn't sell it just yet, We would have to ask guys with the AFE tune if they experience the same thing after some period of time. Maybe they do too and it would confirm the theory of our car adapting to the tune even though some people are saying otherwise. But yeah Ive ran into the same issue and it is a little disappointing but there is a simple temporary solution for now. I trust BMS will figure this out if enough people with stage 1 have the same problem as us.

[mhdelarosa]

Originally Posted by VANOS

Sorry hes not telling me, but ideally that i should get that. But i dont man. I mean forget the 0-60 times, i even noticed my acceleration is a bit slower than usual!! :/ pretty displeased with it man! So ya im thinking about selling it.

Interesting observation. You still may want to hang onto that and just wait for the stage 2 upgrade. I have the stage 2 as a local tester and its pretty damn powerful. However, I'm tentative in pushing the car all the time due to the fact that I'm a tester.

Consider holding tight until stage 2 if you can. The ability to toggle the tune on or off from the dash is a great feature to have. There's always fun in being able to compare speed to stock with the touch of a button. But that's just my opinion. I know many are happy with afe.

[HiiiPowerrrrrr]

Originally Posted by roup23

Ah man, well I wouldn't sell it just yet, We would have to ask guys with the AFE tune if they experience the same thing after some period of time. Maybe they do too and it would confirm the theory of our car adapting to the tune even though some people are saying otherwise. But yeah Ive ran into the same issue and it is a little disappointing but there is a simple temporary solution for now. I trust BMS will figure this out if enough people with stage 1 have the same problem as us.

I've had afe for about 2 weeks now, no adaption as of yet. I have heard of it happening to bms and afe. both say disconnect battery and or tune and then reconnect. I will let you guys know if the car does adapt to the afe tune... Also if you didn't have 0-60 times to back up your theory, i would have suggested maybe it was just you (the driver) adapting to the extra power and it starting to feel normal to you now that you have had it for awhile...

[topcat87]

delete

[mrtorque]

Originally Posted by HiiiPowerrrrrr

I've had afe for about 2 weeks now, no adaption as of yet. I have heard of it happening to bms and afe. both say disconnect battery and or tune and then reconnect. I will let you guys know if the car does adapt to the afe tune... Also if you didn't have 0-60 times to back up your theory, i would have suggested maybe it was just you (the driver) adapting to the extra power and it starting to feel normal to you now that you have had it for awhile...

Thanks for giving us that info about your experience with afe and keeping us posted. Your absolutely right about backing up my theory with the 0-60 times I will record it and report back. I have a new odd-II reader that wirelessly connects to my iphone. I can have it display a nice chart of my 0-60 with boost, rpm, speed,etc straight from the cars sensors. This should come in handy , we'll have something to work off of from there.
Btw you guys can turn off your tune without disconnecting it if you have the usb. Just set the map to 0 in the program and it will turn the tune off (confirmed with terry)

[mrtorque]

Originally Posted by VANOS

Oh wow! You too?! Are you still experiencing the same effects? Well I would love to hear their insight on it in fact! And to also see if they had any problems. But heres the thing, aFe has a two year warranty. I had told them about my situation with whats going on and they said they would have swapped it out. They were telling me with any problem you run into they would help you out or just swap it out for me. But Before i do anything you are totally right i should hear their opinions about the long term use of it. I do know its just as powerful as stage 1 and in fact may do a little better at higher end speeds.

Wow thats pretty awesome with AFe! That would definitely come in handy. And yeah I am experiencing the same effects, definitely after about a month and a half (daily driving) it just doesnt pull as quick. And I know there is a difference because when i take it off and put it back on it feels great again. Sometimes all I see is my yellow traction control light blink driving up my hill . But to show my fellow f30members and really to myself lol, I will record my 0-60 when i first put the tune on fresh and once more when i feel its not pulling as fast anymore like HiiiPowerrrrrr suggested.

[David328M-Sport]

So why don't the N55 people who have their BMS installed, have such issues? I haven't read any adapting issues on their threads, here or on N54tech. My car/BMS combo has worked flawlessly on default (+3psi) boost since install Feb 25.

I only use 98RON (=93AKI) fuel in my car. I will wait for S2 install before adjusting the boost.

Hope you guys find a solution, be it from BMS or aFe.
Cheers.

[topcat87]

once u have the tune out can u do a baseline 0-60 stock?

[metrathon]

Originally Posted by VANOS

Btw guys! I meant $290.00 sorry not 300.00 but $290.00 to anyone who wants it. Comes with the USB Cable as well $290.00 is only for the F30 community once again!

If you want it, just message me! Before you purchase it!

You know, you can have squeeze multiple phrases in the same post

Let us know how the aFE works for you

[Mike@N54Tuning.com]

Originally Posted by VANOS

To be honest, I am ok with the fact that it isnt upgradable because my car is a lease you know. I didn't leave it on +4 because I don't trust it and i dont want issues whatsoever. See the thing is i want something that works, and i dont have to go through trouble trying to fixing it. If there is a problem i want to swap it out with another one and it seems like BMS wont even do that -___--- Don't get me wrong they did help, but i feel like they are using me as a little lab rat to see how +4 boost over stock does with 91. And i dont want that because if something happens, its on me and i kind of feel like they are giving me the run around. Hell they were telling me that doing a 0-60 isnt a good measure of performance because its traction dependent. I mean how the hell am I supposed to know if its truly working or not. The whole point of this tune is to make our cars go faster! And i feel like by doing a 0-60 run would really show if there is an improvement from the tune. I understand traction plays a factor but at the same time its not that big of a problem (unless the road is wet or uneven) But in my cause road was smooth and dry! For those wondering what tires i am running i have Hankook V12's. I am sure people say you should turn off traction control, brake boost, or whatever. And i did that and yet, same time. When i did my 0-60 all i did was just push the pedal to the floor, nothing crazy just plain simple pushing down on the pedal all the way down. From obviously a stopped position. Anyways it looks like im doing a switch to aFe. Seems like everyone is enjoying it and its just as good as BMS and in fact does better at higher end speeds compared to Stage 1.

The AFE is not adjustable and runs +4psi. If BMS says the logs look normal then your performance testing methods are flawed. Variances in weather, fuel quality, traction, etc, can easily vary 0-60 times 1/2 second either way week to week. A better measure of performance is normal 1/4 mile trap speeds where traction plays less of a role.

Mike

[stuttgartusa]

I love my AFE tune, very nice tune

[GoLakers2014]

Just to chime in I had the afe scorcher in my 528i company car. It was easy to install and felt faster than before I added it. After maybe two weeks I had a engine malfunction so I removed the chip box and went to the dealership. They kept the car for a day and asked if it was tuned and seemed really suspicious. They said it had something to do with the car making too much torque and asked if I had added anything. I avoided the question and they backed off and said nothing was wrong and that they cleared the codes in the computer. So I put the chip back on and after another week the same thing came up so I decided to return it and just keep the car unmodified. I'm a little worried about going back to the dealer now I'm going to wait a few months and hope they forget about the last time. I decided to buy another car out of warranty for modifying but instead of a chip tune I'll be doing a flash tune.

[David328M-Sport]

Originally Posted by VANOS

Its just before i had the tune i got 0-60 5.8 seconds. And the day of (when i installed the tune) i got as fast as 5.3.. I have done a couple more after that. Same road, weather, fuel, everything was the exact same thing just so i can have a accurate measurement. After the that i got the same (5.3) When i tested out this earlier this week i got 5.9, 5.8, and believe it or not even when i put it up to +4 I GOT 6.0!

Hey Vanos,

Now that you have removed, sold the BMS and restored your car to stock, as topcat87 asked, can you do a new 0-60 run or 2 or 3, just to create a new baseline? It would be great to get to the bottom of your issues.

It is possible, your car might have a fault. It's in your best interests to asses the situation to ensure your car is 'clean' before installing the aFe.

Hope it all goes well for you.

Cheers

[HiiiPowerrrrrr]

Originally Posted by David328M-Sport

Hey Vanos,

Now that you have removed, sold the BMS and restored your car to stock, as topcat87 asked, can you do a new 0-60 run or 2 or 3, just to create a new baseline? It would be great to get to the bottom of your issues.

It is possible, your car might have a fault. It's in your best interests to asses the situation to ensure your car is 'clean' before installing the aFe.

Hope it all goes well for you.

Cheers

+1

[Mike@N54Tuning.com]

Originally Posted by VANOS

EXACTLY!!!!!!!! you said it right on the money!!! I mean dont get me wrong all those are of course factors YES! But i purposely did EVERYTHING THE SAME!! So i can have an accurate measurement! Not do it when its warm the next day or what not! NO! I did it with the same temperature, time, weather, road, and everything!!!! Not a damn thing was changed! I don't understand why BMS wont expect the fact that it's their tune is not working properly and needs fixing! They wouldn't even let me swap it out you know. sucks! But Like i said many times, not to be disrespectful to BMS or anyone! I am just telling the truth. BMS is a good tune! Don't get me wrong. They once again need to work on their costumer care, and tune!

Thank you HiiiPowerrrrr for the support and help with aFe tune!

What device are you using to measure 0-60? The only really consistent tool is a GPS system like the VBOX. It isn't possible for the DME to "adapt out" a tune like the N20 Stage1 or AFE. Both simply alter the load values back to the DME based on the MAP and TMAP sensor data. Making the DME think it's making less boost than it actually is. The DME can reduce timing advance if it thinks you have bad gas though and that would really slow the car down.

I'm not privy to your correspondence with BMS but if you don't think 0-60 times can and will vary by 1/2 second depending on weather, traction, and fuel then I can see where someone trying to help you would start to get frustrated. 0-60 times simply have a lot of potential for variance. Based on what I've seen you post I would ask you for a log to check your boost levels to ensure they are around 19-20psi peak. Then I would tell you to try another tank of gas from a different station. If after doing both you still ran slower than expected 0-60 I'd ask you to retime with the device removed. Then at that point if things indicated that there might be a faulty unit I'd swap it out for you. BMS follows the same procedures. Perhaps you just bailed on the support too early without trying another tank of gas or sending them times with the tune removed.

Anyway best of luck with the AFE. It's basically the same thing only without MAF control. As long as the DME doesn't dump timing on you then you should still run similar times to the BMS Stage1 in the low 5 second range on average when properly measured.

Mike

[Mike@N54Tuning.com]

Originally Posted by VANOS

Also mike if you and BMS don't really think using a 0-60 measurement isn't really good, then explain to me why does BMS on their website say 0-60 4.9 seconds with the tune? Or 0-60 5.4 before the tune. (which is wrong and our cars go 5.8-5.7 which i myself had tested as well) Why did they use it if its not really that good? I would really love to know. I mean not to bad mouth and be a jerk, but they really painted themselves in a corner brotha. I just love how they are telling me its not a good way, yet advertise that they using that measurement to measure the performance on the car loll. Go figure! lmao :/

No offense but you've GOT to be kidding re: measuring 0-60 times with a stop watch? BMS uses a VBOX GPS based machine like the magazines use. 4.9s is what the tune is capable of during best case conditions with good traction, proper fuel, on a 100% level road, using professional timing equipment and a professional driver. That does not mean every single time you try to race the car you are going to run 4.9s. It means its capable of it.

As I said above no offense but I can see why tech support didn't work out for you. Best of luck with the AFE tune. If you wind up needing any other parts for the car down the road I'll be here to help!

Mike

[metrathon]

Like EVERYTHING else in US of A, the advertised parameter/function/capability/result is something the average consumer will almost never achieve. It doesn't matter what it is: the price of a car, a weight loss program, EPA estimate, etc.
You will never get the $399 advertised for a lease. Why write $399 if that price is not attainable under any (normal) circumstances? In the same way you will never get the 4.9s advertised.

Is it a lie? No. It is merely a generally accepted (legal) deception. Something like this would never work in Germany for example. A claim has to be true / has to work for a majority of customers, under average circumstances, in order to be used in advertisement.

But here anything goes: lease for just $199, and when you start adding fees, taxes and shit, it skyrockets. Or 4.9s for your 328i, and when you read the fine print you'll realize you'll never achieve that.

Just remember any American claim has a "padding" of up to 25 to 50% and you'll be fine

[HiiiPowerrrrrr]

Originally Posted by metrathon

Like EVERYTHING else in US of A, the advertised parameter/function/capability/result is something the average consumer will almost never achieve. It doesn't matter what it is: the price of a car, a weight loss program, EPA estimate, etc.
You will never get the $399 advertised for a lease. Why write $399 if that price is not attainable under any (normal) circumstances? In the same way you will never get the 4.9s advertised.

Is it a lie? No. It is merely a generally accepted (legal) deception. Something like this would never work in Germany for example. A claim has to be true / has to work for a majority of customers, under average circumstances, in order to be used in advertisement.

But here anything goes: lease for just $199, and when you start adding fees, taxes and shit, it skyrockets. Or 4.9s for your 328i, and when you read the fine print you'll realize you'll never achieve that.

Just remember any American claim has a "padding" of up to 25 to 50% and you'll be fine

Haha isn't that the truth! No one is complaining about attaining those numbers, although that wouldn't be a bad thing if we could always run sub 5's with just one upgrade haha.

[Jamesons Viggen]

The numbers mags and tuners achieve with a proper driver are more abusive than most people are willing to do on the street.

An auto needs a 3100rpm launch with the torque converter loaded, a 6mt needs a bit of a clutch drop or side step, probably about 2500rpms. It's very easy to bog these cars, made even more of a challenge with Xdrive.


No one is going to get a tuned time of sub 5 second by just matting the gas pedal, just as no one is going to nail the stock time of 5.4 if done so as well.

The key, like mentioned is seeing a drop in times if done in the same testing method. If it doesn't work right any longer, no matter the tune or tuner, it doesn't work. I have faith in someones ability to accurately gauge the increase or decrease in performance. There is no gain for them to make it up or just be doing it wrong and have to sell the product and buy another.

[Mike@N54Tuning.com]

Originally Posted by Jamesons Viggen

The numbers mags and tuners achieve with a proper driver are more abusive than most people are willing to do on the street.

An auto needs a 3100rpm launch with the torque converter loaded, a 6mt needs a bit of a clutch drop or side step, probably about 2500rpms. It's very easy to bog these cars, made even more of a challenge with Xdrive.


No one is going to get a tuned time of sub 5 second by just matting the gas pedal, just as no one is going to nail the stock time of 5.4 if done so as well.

The key, like mentioned is seeing a drop in times if done in the same testing method. If it doesn't work right any longer, no matter the tune or tuner, it doesn't work. I have faith in someones ability to accurately gauge the increase or decrease in performance. There is no gain for them to make it up or just be doing it wrong and have to sell the product and buy another.

I can't say I have the same faith in someone trying to time a 0-60 time consistently using a manual stop watch. I suppose everyone is entitled to their opinion on it.

To keep things technical unlike the Stage2 which has much more input via CAN the Stage1 doesn't adapt. The same signals in produce the same signals out every time and always. That is assuming you have not triggered some over boost or intake temperature safety that would tell the tune to switch to map 0 until you restart the engine. The DME on the other hand is HIGHLY adaptive. I noticed 'VANOS' is running on 91 octane. He said he went slower at +4psi than +3psi. The DME can't adapt out boost so if its actually slower than it was a week ago I'd guess he's getting some knock retard and the DME is pulling timing. Maybe he should be running +2psi, for example, on that 91 octane. As a technical person I find it comical these guys like 'highpower' actually believe one tune that offsets the MAP/TMAP sensors is going to do something magically different than some other tune that offsets the same MAP/TMAP sensors. To do something different you need more data in via more sensor inputs or the ultimate CANbus input. Unfortunately this is not a very technical crowd. Maybe some day some engineer will buy both Stage1 tunes, bench test them, and document out any signal mapping variances.

Mike