[thejeremyman9]

Originally Posted by dalderks

That's a good idea. I'll give it a shot this week/weekend.

I haven't seen that - I'll have to do some searching. I did read about it on other intakes before purchasing the Dinan one (before looking into tuning) - I guess they weren't immune. Definitely got too excited one day and spent way too much money on a sound box... live and learn I guess. I'm looking at the afe pro dry s, but haven't pulled the trigger.

I run the AFE pro dry s and i recommend it. 100% stock intake system, non MPPK bottom, no scoop, screen still in place. I will be adding an inlet soon most likely, but the stock intake with the pro dry s is solid.

[itsrichierich]

I wanted to bring something up that is could potentially fit our N55 needs.

My boss has been working with Mercedes-Benz of Anaheim on a test cap for their Sprinter vans and other engines for boost leaks and etc. I showed my boss my creative product (designed by thejeremyman9 ) and it seems to be in very similar size. I recently bought a new intake and MST turbo inlet. Going to get those installed and at the same time test for boost leaks. Going to try to see if the aluminum cap that my boss made will work. If so, this will take out the guessing work for the guys that don't want to create their own using the PVC cap.

[thejeremyman9]

Originally Posted by itsrichierich

I wanted to bring something up that is could potentially fit our N55 needs.

My boss has been working with Mercedes-Benz of Anaheim on a test cap for their Sprinter vans and other engines for boost leaks and etc. I showed my boss my creative product (designed by thejeremyman9 ) and it seems to be in very similar size. I recently bought a new intake and MST turbo inlet. Going to get those installed and at the same time test for boost leaks. Going to try to see if the aluminum cap that my boss made will work. If so, this will take out the guessing work for the guys that don't want to create their own using the PVC cap.

When I saw this thread bumped, i was like "oh man who has a boost leak now" lol. That's cool though.

When i installed MST inlet (and later TIC pipe), i found that testing with the MST is much easier in the sense that the silicone inlet is flexible enough to force in a tight-fitting pressure tester and it provides a much better seal than the OEM plastic. However one thing i also noticed is that the MST inlet itself seemed to leak after i built up 15-20 psi of pressure. I thought i noticed the same thing with the OEM inlet as well; just a slight hissing noise from that area (this was with stock TIC still which i was confident was not leaking). I couldn't tell for sure where it was coming from - either the orings that seal the inlet into the turbo or the silicone clamped on the metal piece that goes into the turbo. My hose clamp there was tight. I don't think its an issue since the inlet isnt made to hold boost, but just something to be aware of if you try to pressure test with MST and hear/feel area coming from the area where it goes into the turbo. I'm pretty confident i have no boost leaks based on my logs and the oversized orings i forced onto every single connection point lol.

[itsrichierich]

Originally Posted by thejeremyman9

When I saw this thread bumped, i was like "oh man who has a boost leak now" lol. That's cool though.

When i installed MST inlet (and later TIC pipe), i found that testing with the MST is much easier in the sense that the silicone inlet is flexible enough to force in a tight-fitting pressure tester and it provides a much better seal than the OEM plastic. However one thing i also noticed is that the MST inlet itself seemed to leak after i built up 15-20 psi of pressure. I thought i noticed the same thing with the OEM inlet as well; just a slight hissing noise from that area (this was with stock TIC still which i was confident was not leaking). I couldn't tell for sure where it was coming from - either the orings that seal the inlet into the turbo or the silicone clamped on the metal piece that goes into the turbo. My hose clamp there was tight. I don't think its an issue since the inlet isnt made to hold boost, but just something to be aware of if you try to pressure test with MST and hear/feel area coming from the area where it goes into the turbo. I'm pretty confident i have no boost leaks based on my logs and the oversized orings i forced onto every single connection point lol.

I think I should be good since you last read my log. But since I'm installing new parts and my boss coming out with this test cap, figured I would do any leak test just to make sure.

Thanks for the heads up! I have already did my TIC but I'll make sure to keep my ear out from the turbo inlet. Watching the Kies Motorsports video, the turbo inlet seems like a pretty straight forward install. Any tips or comments?

[thejeremyman9]

Originally Posted by itsrichierich

I think I should be good since you last read my log. But since I'm installing new parts and my boss coming out with this test cap, figured I would do any leak test just to make sure.

Thanks for the heads up! I have already did my TIC but I'll make sure to keep my ear out from the turbo inlet. Watching the Kies Motorsports video, the turbo inlet seems like a pretty straight forward install. Any tips or comments?

MST inlet is fairly easy because its modular, i.e., so you can install the inlet to turbo piece and tighten that bolt without the silicone in the way. Similarly, its easier if you install the PCV hose onto the metal piece that goes into the inlet first (to tighten the annoying bolt), then slide the metal piece into the silicone after the inlet is installed. This is almost required because the MST silicone is so big you cant really force it into place with that metal piece in it. And to get the silicone piece onto the turbo inlet metal piece, put your fist inside the inlet and push toward the turbo while assisting with the other hand from outside the inlet. Of course, dont forget to put the hose clamp over the silicone in the correct orientation before putting that on or you will be taking it off all over again.

Also, i recommend replacing the PCV hose if yours is original. I basically broke mine removing stock inlet. You could probably remove it carefully, but i already had the new one on hand anyway.

I gave more detailed instructions in either the 'aftermarket inlet on stock turbo thread' or the 'anyone install MST inlet ????' thread (not exact thread names but close). I also have a full photo log in there.

[DFe90]

I ordered this Turbo Boost Leak Tester kit for my F30 335 N55 and it seemed to work well .. had to take the intake pipe off and install that billet part right on the turbo.

https://turboboostleaktesters.com/bm...llet-aluminum/

Anyone else see or use this?

[DFe90]

this one....

[thejeremyman9]

Originally Posted by DFe90

this one....

If you're going to use that, you might as well install an inlet at the same time.

[DFe90]

getting in there and taking out the intak pipe wasnt too bad, took a half hour, just that intake pipe is so dam brittle, broke one of the tabs on the intake pipe. Absolutelly no way to do the test pre-turbo...itd probably crack.... plus dump compressed air into the crankcase return pipe.. which is not a good idea.

[thejeremyman9]

Originally Posted by DFe90

getting in there and taking out the intak pipe wasnt too bad, took a half hour, just that intake pipe is so dam brittle, broke one of the tabs on the intake pipe. Absolutelly no way to do the test pre-turbo...itd probably crack.... plus dump compressed air into the crankcase return pipe.. which is not a good idea.

Not sure what you mean. I pressure tested using the stock inlet as detailed in my post earlier in this thread. It held just fine, didnt crack, and of course you do need to block off the CCV hose that runs from inlet to VC (i linked the rubber plugs you can use to do this earlier in this thread). YMMV if your car is higher miles and inlet is more brittle.

[S6K]

oh boy…. wish me luck as I will be attempting this next week thejeremyman9 … just installed PS2 and WGDCs hitting mid to high 70s at not even 11-12psi.

Do you think it would be possible to connect the cap device to the middle section of my intake (CTS Turbo)? The only reason I ask is because I have the CTS turbo inlet and it's silicon and extremely difficult to slide the intake in and out of. I was planning on disconnecting the MAF housing block and plugging from there with the cap set up. I attached a picture so you can see what I am talking about, this is from last night when I tried to do a DIY smoke test before I found this thread.

Thanks

[thejeremyman9]

With the homemade plug/cap i made to pressurize, no, you wont be able to put it in the metal tube. It needs to go into something flexible to seal because its rigid. You would need some sort of flexible cap/plug to do it that way, or a coupler.

[el_macc]

Hey, sorry for bumping an old thread but I can’t seem to pressure test my F30 for the life of me. When I go from the turbo inlet the CCV Breather hose seems to let out air. When cap that hose off and the CP 8AT vacuum line, it still lets out air from the other side of the vacuum line that goes into the intake. I heard somewhere that the vacuum line that goes into the CP for 8AT transmission has some kind of valve in it that’s supposed to get close after a few seconds.

Either way I read your thread about changing o rings to one size up and I think I’m just gonna have to do that. Either that or my VRSF charge pipe silicone coupler isn’t on right. I heard these have to be put on a certain way for it to not leak.

Do you recommend oem O rings for fmic which are tapered or overalsized o rings or 4mm standard o rings?

[thejeremyman9]

Originally Posted by el_macc

Hey, sorry for bumping an old thread but I can’t seem to pressure test my F30 for the life of me. When I go from the turbo inlet the CCV Breather hose seems to let out air. When cap that hose off and the CP 8AT vacuum line, it still lets out air from the other side of the vacuum line that goes into the intake. I heard somewhere that the vacuum line that goes into the CP for 8AT transmission has some kind of valve in it that’s supposed to get close after a few seconds.

Either way I read your thread about changing o rings to one size up and I think I’m just gonna have to do that. Either that or my VRSF charge pipe silicone coupler isn’t on right. I heard these have to be put on a certain way for it to not leak.

Do you recommend oem O rings for fmic which are tapered or overalsized o rings or 4mm standard o rings?

I recommend the largest oring you can fit. If you do what i did, you start with the highest and test fit until one works. In some cases i shaved down the larger to make it fit better than the smaller (i.e., shaving a 4.5mm to a 4.25mm to get better fit than 4mm). I doubt you will need bigger than 4mm but just order a variety of sizes/thickness since they are so cheap and you can get them all shipped together for one price.

After i changed my IC from the 5'' to the race i was able to use a smaller oring so i am positive that my 5'' was out of spec casing the leak.

As far as the coupler, the most important thing is that the hose clamps are fully over the bead on both the top and bottom halves, and tight.

[el_macc]

I’ve pinpointed my boost leak down to turbo area. It holds boost till about 20psi but as I go higher in pressure I hear a air leak in the turbo area. I’ve gotten as high as 27psi and heard hissing around turbo. It hold the boost at 20psi though very well and doesn’t drop off at all for the 20 sec I held pressure. At that point I was worried about blowing the seals.

I’ve come to the conclusion that it’s most likely the DV not holding past 21psi and my logs show wgdc going all the way up to 80% from 60% after a couple revisions with boost remaining the same at 21psi.

It could also be inlet pipe but those are not prone to failing. I have a oem f30 rubber one.

I’ve also rulled out WG actuator. I am pwg and pressure test wouldn’t show a leak on WG actuator w the car off since it’s open.

[thejeremyman9]

Originally Posted by el_macc

I’ve pinpointed my boost leak down to turbo area. It holds boost till about 20psi but as I go higher in pressure I hear a air leak in the turbo area. I’ve gotten as high as 27psi and heard hissing around turbo. It hold the boost at 20psi though very well and doesn’t drop off at all for the 20 sec I held pressure. At that point I was worried about blowing the seals.

I’ve come to the conclusion that it’s most likely the DV not holding past 21psi and my logs show wgdc going all the way up to 80% from 60% after a couple revisions with boost remaining the same at 21psi.

It could also be inlet pipe but those are not prone to failing. I have a oem f30 rubber one.

I’ve also rulled out WG actuator. I am pwg and pressure test wouldn’t show a leak on WG actuator w the car off since it’s open.

Are you pressurizing through the stock inlet like i did in this thread? If so you could be leaking where the inlet goes into the turbo since its not made to hold pressure. If you are able to hold 20psi reliably you probably don't have a post-turbo boost leak IMO.

I have the MST v2 inlet since originally creating this thread and when i tested with that one it sounded like i started to lose some air at the inlet to turbo connection as well. But no leaks post turbo, and i am within like 0.5 psi of target in logs usually.

[el_macc]

No I have a metal inlet that came w my Shuenk N55+ turbo. I’m not sure if it holds boost tho. In my logs I can’t seem to go passed 21psi as much as wgdc goes up. It seems to correlate w the pressure test.

F30 is so freakin hard to boost leak test if you are running higher boost levels.

I have a m2 DV which is supposed to hold to 21-22 psi so I’m thinking this is the issue.

[el_macc]

This is what my inlet looks like. This is for a f10 but same concept just different shape and hole for pcv is there as well.

[thejeremyman9]

I didnt know the M2 DV was different than the F3x one? It could be that, hard to tell for sure though.