[smaide]

Originally Posted by overkill1125

Anyone used a 2500k yellow for fogs?

Wondering the same thing... or if anyone has recommendations for a good yellow bulb that won't throw codes

[overkill1125]

Originally Posted by smaide

Wondering the same thing... or if anyone has recommendations for a good yellow bulb that won't throw codes

If anyone did it, please post pics!
Thanks!

[RSnic]

Hi,

First off, Thanks to NISFAN for great post; your DIY worked like a champ -- 8mm socket was the right fit as opposed to the BMW owner's manual which said use the back end of the supplied screwdriver.

I decided to go with MTEC 4350K to keep them as little "blue" as possible so they really do work in fog; I've attached a picture with the standard OEM bulb on passenger side and 4350K bulb on the driver's side (right as you look at it). While it is daylight, you can see the difference -- kind of like fluorescent vs incandescent light bulbs around the house.

Again, appreciate the posting!

[hudy]

Just replaced my fog light bulbs. The directions and pictures made it a snap. Used Xenesis Super White H8s. Will post a picture soon. The only additions I suggest is to a) remove the six 8mm headed screws located bottom and fender side, not just three. Made access easier. b) take the wheel off. Same reason.

Thanks for the post.

[hudy]

Just replaced my fog light bulbs. The directions and pictures made it a snap. Used Xenesis Super White H8s. Will post a picture soon. The only additions I suggest is to a) remove the six 8mm hex head fasteners along the bottom and fender side. Made access easier. b) remove the wheel. Same reason.

Thanks again for the post.

[chinaworld]

Originally Posted by NISFAN

I've seen a few threads discussing bulb types and what colour bulbs to use to get rid of the 'yellow' looking fogs, but no DIY.

As I had to do mine, I thought I would take some pics, to show how it's done on an M Sport. (I first looked in the manual, but it referred to a non M Sport and looked different)

So below please see the sequence of pics.

Before you start: Get your new bulbs ready (H8 35w), I used MTEC MT-471 (colour 4,750K). Don't forget - do not touch the glass part of the bulbs, if you do, use an alcohol wipe to remove any oil prints left from your fingers.

Also you need an 8mm Socket and ratchet wrench.

Lastly, turn the steering wheel as far as it goes one way. It doesn't matter which direction as once turned you can access both sides.

Step 1: Locate the 3 - 8mm headed screws (circled). Undo the outer 2 and remove the screws.

Step 2: Gently prise back the arch liner, revealing the rear of the fog light.

Step 3: Unplug the black plug, by squeezing the two tabs on the short sides.

Step 4: Twist the old bulb about 60 degrees towards the outside of the car, and ease bulb out, remembering not to touch the bulb part.

Step 5: Fit new bulb in the exact reverse order. Make sure the plug clicks into place.

Step 6: Enjoy the warm colour beam.

Step 7: Put the arch liner back in place, and fit the screws.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Hello bro how are you !
i love your car and how it look now after change the yellow fog
so i bought also the same mt-471

[963mw]

Just to chirp in, a useful tip would be to use the onboard toolkit screwdriver, If you remove the metal from it (flat or philips), it is made to remove screws such as those in the instructions.

[tdizzle]

Any thoughts/ideas on how to replace the entire thing?

I had a rock or some sort of road debris shatter the glass covering the light recently. Wondering how difficult/expensive it is to replace.

My oil is up for scheduled changing per the maintenance plan in the next couple months and I know they'll offer to change it... For probably a not so cheap price.

[963mw]

Originally Posted by tdizzle

Any thoughts/ideas on how to replace the entire thing?

I had a rock or some sort of road debris shatter the glass covering the light recently. Wondering how difficult/expensive it is to replace.

My oil is up for scheduled changing per the maintenance plan in the next couple months and I know they'll offer to change it... For probably a not so cheap price.

Not too sure but working off of memory, I think once you follow the guide, when you come to take out the light, you'll be able to see the bolts that hold the housing in.

[darylrese]

Sorry for digging up an old thread but i just fitted these bulbs to my 320i. Much better!

A few tips for those interested:

- Make sure the bulbs are 'Cosmos Blue' MTEC Do 3 variations of the same bulb and each look very different in terms of light temperature but have the same specs

- You only need to remove the two bolts on the outside of the wheel arch. I had no need to remove the bolt further in.

- Make sure you remove the connector block before twisting the bulb. I didn't on the first one and snapped off the little lug to stop the bulb from twisting!

Anyway all good and a good match for the Xenon headlights. What do you think?

Left side new bulb, right side original



New bulbs fitted

[F30Drew]

Just ordered a set! I'm late on the post (Sorry) but I will show the results!

[jinnrice]

Looks good

[kevC]

I just installed the MTEC ones from the OP and it does throw an error code

[Billfitz]

Originally Posted by kevC

I just installed the MTEC ones from the OP and it does throw an error code

Since they're halogens they shouldn't throw a code, as far as the computer is concerned they're the same as stock.
BTW, chances are they have less actual light output than stock. They use a coating on the bulb to literally tint the output color. If anything that results in less light output.
I replaced mine with 55w H11 base halogens, as I wanted brighter, not whiter. The wiring will handle it. The H11 base is similar, but not identical to, H8. You need to trim the base tangs a bit with a Dremel tool. You can go with a tinted bulb if you wish, I opted for long life bulbs. Tinted bulbs tend not to last long, as that tinting raises the filament temperature, which reduces filament life.

[kevC]

Originally Posted by Billfitz

Since they're halogens they shouldn't throw a code, as far as the computer is concerned they're the same as stock.
BTW, chances are they have less actual light output than stock. They use a coating on the bulb to literally tint the output color. If anything that results in less light output.
I replaced mine with 55w H11 base halogens, as I wanted brighter, not whiter. The wiring will handle it. The H11 base is similar, but not identical to, H8. You need to trim the base tangs a bit with a Dremel tool. You can go with a tinted bulb if you wish, I opted for long life bulbs. Tinted bulbs tend not to last long, as that tinting raises the filament temperature, which reduces filament life.

So you think it's throwing the code because the light output is low? It's definitely giving me a "fog light malfunction" error.

[Billfitz]

Originally Posted by kevC

So you think it's throwing the code because the light output is low?

It doesn't measure the light output. The computer checks the load to be sure there's a functional bulb, and throws a code if the load resistance isn't within tolerance. Replacement LEDs throw a code because they're not within tolerance for a halogen bulb, so a load resistor is used to fool the car into thinking there is still a halogen bulb in place. A replacement halogen bulb should be OK.

[kevC]

Originally Posted by Billfitz

It doesn't measure the light output. The computer checks the load to be sure there's a functional bulb, and throws a code if the load resistance isn't within tolerance. Replacement LEDs throw a code because they're not within tolerance for a halogen bulb, so a load resistor is used to fool the car into thinking there is still a halogen bulb in place. A replacement halogen bulb should be OK.

Well they are definitely halogen and it's definitely throwing a code. Maybe they're just defective. I'll see if I can get a replacement and try again.

[Billfitz]

Put your original bulbs back in place to see if it's something else.

[kevC]

Originally Posted by Billfitz

Put your original bulbs back in place to see if it's something else.

Already did that. No more error codes and everything functions fine. It's definitely the new bulbs.

[CazuaLLUK]

Guide helped me when I did mine, good job!

[misguided_will]

do they still light up or does having an error prevent it from switching on?

if it's just a warning, i could probably live with it.

im considering LEDs. would those error cancelling modules do the trick in lieu of any coding?

[Billfitz]

Originally Posted by misguided_will

im considering LEDs. would those error cancelling modules do the trick in lieu of any coding?

Maybe, but there's an additional problem with LED. The voltage sent to halogens isn't pure DC, is a pulsed DC, which literally turns the power to the lamp on and off at a very high rate. With halogens you don't see the resulting pulsing of the lamp, because they operate by heating a filament, and the filament stays hot enough between voltage pulses to keep the light level constant. LEDs don't use filaments, and their light output will pulse along with the voltage. I think you can turn off the pulsing via coding, but you need to be sure of it before making the change.