[HighlandPete]

Originally Posted by teaston

Because the locking nut is more delicate than an hexagonal nut i guess

All the bolts should be correctly torqued. It is true the locking part is more delicate, but is still strong enough to cope with normal tolerances. It is only when abused would the locking part shear off.

I despair at many tyre shops and their lack of engineering knowledge and bad practice.

I watched a guy use a torque wrench, he 'clicked' the torque value correctly and then gave it a good heave. I had to say something, just a vacant look in return.

HighlandPete

[troggy1969]

Most tyre shops will use air guns for speed and on the normal bolts you are Ok. You have to take care with the locking bolt.
I would say the person responsible for this issue is the person who fitted the winter wheels, bet he used an air gun not a torque wrench!!

[Kal101]

A torque wrench !!!!

My dad just used to stand on the end of the wheel wrench to make sure his nuts were tight enough

[....,,,,..,,..]

Originally Posted by troggy1969

Most tyre shops will use air guns for speed and on the normal bolts you are Ok. You have to take care with the locking bolt.
I would say the person responsible for this issue is the person who fitted the winter wheels, bet he used an air gun not a torque wrench!!

They should only use an air gun once nut has been cracked by a power bar.

When refitting, finger tight, then a torqued down air gun using the correct nut sequence, finally torque them on.

the number of times you see them walk up and use an air gun on max torque from the start and the socket bounces off and clashes on the vehicles wheel.


The first garage I worked at HGV & Heavy Plant, I could only torque some lighter vehicles, the heavy stuff, I weighed bugger all and was like a starved Spuggy.

Much to the delight of the fitters etc lol.

[PurpleTT]

My biggest issue when I was changing back to summers a month or so ago was not getting bolts out, but getting wheel off the hub.

Has to bash all 4 repeatedly with a club hammer via a block of wood. The bastards just didn't wanna go back into storage!

[SimNugget]

I had the same - rubber mallet needed on all 4!

I quite enjoy the bi-annual change over, gives me an opportunity to clean up the calipers, hubs and wheel arches, and apply some GTechniq to the calipers. Also gives me 6 months to thoroughly clean the set of wheels that are off.

My kit is:
Trolley Jack
Torque Wrench, simply a must and not that expensive.
Rubber puck thingy for the jack points.
Extendable wheel wrench, with electrical tape round the socket to prevent scratched.

S

[HiBee]

[QUOTE=NISFAN;17825643]Used a gun to remove the locking nut? What an absolute dick.

You need a jack, trolley jack is preferable, make sure it has a low minimum height, and you need a BMW style jacking pad to fit the BMW jack block.

You need a breaker bar (half inch) and a 17mm long socket, preferably the ones with a sock on them. On the breaker bar, a straight one with swivel end is the best for control, rather than the bent end extendable type.

As mentioned a torque wrench is a good tool, but very expensive for the odd wheel change requirement.

Most importantly......technique!!! You can shear the lock nut pattern off quite easily with the wrong technique, so make you gen up on that too, otherwise you could have spent money to be in the same position.

Alternatively, just tell them to be careful with the lock nuts. Cost = zero[/QUOTEThat's what worries me, getting an outside party changing the tyres.



I'm possibly thinking of changing the run flats to non flat decent rubbers. I don't have the correct equipment to change over the tyres though.
I take it BMW dealers will change over non run flats with a substantial charge, more than than other tyre dealers ?

[teaston]

Originally Posted by PurpleTT

My biggest issue when I was changing back to summers a month or so ago was not getting bolts out, but getting wheel off the hub.

Has to bash all 4 repeatedly with a club hammer via a block of wood. The bastards just didn't wanna go back into storage!

Some copper grease on the hub where the wheel touches solves this for next time.

[HiBee]

^^^^^
Also the grease prevents the rust coming through.
Never had the rusting stained hubs since.

[Gorsh]

Originally Posted by teaston

Some copper grease on the hub where the wheel touches solves this for next time.

+1

I have Coppaslip (think that's how it's spelt), assume it's same as copper grease. Brilliant stuff anyway, good on back and metal side edges of brake pads too.


For those of us who don't know (including me!), what is the torque setting on F3x wheel nuts please?

[teaston]

Originally Posted by Gorsh

+1

I have Coppaslip (think that's how it's spelt), assume it's same as copper grease. Brilliant stuff anyway, good on back and metal side edges of brake pads too.


For those of us who don't know (including me!), what is the torque setting on F3x wheel nuts please?

Yep copper slip/ease/grease all same thing.

140nm

[Gixerste]

Originally Posted by troggy1969

Most tyre shops will use air guns for speed and on the normal bolts you are Ok. You have to take care with the locking bolt.
I would say the person responsible for this issue is the person who fitted the winter wheels, bet he used an air gun not a torque wrench!!

Have to disagree with air guns and normal bolts are okay bit after having to snap a bolt head off with the biggest power bar I could get on one of my alloys, after they were put on with an air gun and also the damage done to the where the bolt seated !!

[sa12]

Originally Posted by PurpleTT

My biggest issue when I was changing back to summers a month or so ago was not getting bolts out, but getting wheel off the hub.

Has to bash all 4 repeatedly with a club hammer via a block of wood. The bastards just didn't wanna go back into storage!

I had this problem when I took the wheels off my e90 prior to part exchanging it. I had used copper slip but it didn't seem to make a difference this time as two of the wheels wouldn't budge even with a hammer. In the end I just lowered the jack very slowly until the weight of the car was on the wheel - came apart easily so did the same for the other one also.

[-AndyH-]

Interesting thread as this locking nut is identical to mine and I had the same issue (posted another thread about it already). In my case though it was the locking key that deformed/broke.

The new locking nut key looks different in how it's been manufactured. I will see if I can get some pics to show it.

[tjlees]

Originally Posted by SkyJawa

Don't forget the jacking point adapter....

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BMW-Jack-P...item25862ea323

Even with an xDrive my trolley jack is similar to that and will not fit under the front until the rear has been raised (I can just get it under the rear) because of the adapter.

A low profile trolley jack is the best bet:

http://www.halfords.com/motoring-tra...ck-low-profile

I was jacking up on a piece of wood but this much better!