[CK64]

After more time with the app, I'm suspicious as to the app's boost gauge accuracy. There's a ZEROING button on the app that's tell you to turn the ignition on with the engine off to proceed. Check. Gauge reads zero with engine off now. Start it up and it fluctuates between 0 and -0.24. Start driving and it never shows anything below -0.24 - i expected it to show more of a vacuum, but whatever. Lay into the throttle and the gauge jumps up to 27 psi... Repeat process using the "race" setting and it jumps to 28 psi. Other setting show that the app does control the boost, but the boost pressure??? I don't know about that.

Shut off the app and restart it and reconnect with engine running at idle. Gauge reads -3.72. Jump into the throttle again in race mode, boost gauge reads 18.

I'm at a loss as to why the gauge reacts this way. At this point, I doubt it's very accurate...

Dinan want to chime in????

[scanepa]

Hi all, very interested in this product. Quick question, would using this void your BMW warranty? Is it advisable to remove it before taking car to the dealer? Thanks

[Dinan_Engineering]

Originally Posted by CK64

After more time with the app, I'm suspicious as to the app's boost gauge accuracy. There's a ZEROING button on the app that's tell you to turn the ignition on with the engine off to proceed. Check. Gauge reads zero with engine off now. Start it up and it fluctuates between 0 and -0.24. Start driving and it never shows anything below -0.24 - i expected it to show more of a vacuum, but whatever. Lay into the throttle and the gauge jumps up to 27 psi... Repeat process using the "race" setting and it jumps to 28 psi. Other setting show that the app does control the boost, but the boost pressure??? I don't know about that.

Shut off the app and restart it and reconnect with engine running at idle. Gauge reads -3.72. Jump into the throttle again in race mode, boost gauge reads 18.

I'm at a loss as to why the gauge reacts this way. At this point, I doubt it's very accurate...

Dinan want to chime in????

To be honest this the various types of pressure (absolute, gauge, boost) confuse the hell out of me personally but I will do my best...

First off do you have the newest version of the app? Should be 2.0. If you have a flopping boost reading it sounds like you may have the older app which had some gauge oddities.

Assuming you have the newest app.... Teh reading is as accurate as the sensor that is feeding it the information which is reading the pressure in the intake charge pipe (where SPORT connects) -- NOT the manifold. You have to re-zero with ignition on and the engine off because that would be the only state where the sensor is active but would be reading absolutely no pressure in the pipe. As soon as the car is on (idling) it creates an 'ambient' vacuum (AKA: not in boost) in the pipe hence your negative reading when you re-opened the app when the car was idling. The negative reading simply means you're not boosting -and the engine is sucking air (creating negative pressure) instead of being force fed (positive pressure). You only get a positive reading in boost. Is it perfect. No. But you are plugging into one sensor which has the sole purpose of reading boost at that location. We simply transmit that information to the BT app.

Hopefully that helps explain some things you were seeing. If anyone can explain it better, which I would hope, please feel free to chime in.

[CK64]

Originally Posted by Dinan_Engineering

To be honest this the various types of pressure (absolute, gauge, boost) confuse the hell out of me personally but I will do my best...

First off do you have the newest version of the app? Should be 2.0. If you have a flopping boost reading it sounds like you may have the older app which had some gauge oddities.

Assuming you have the newest app.... Teh reading is as accurate as the sensor that is feeding it the information which is reading the pressure in the intake charge pipe (where SPORT connects) -- NOT the manifold. You have to re-zero with ignition on and the engine off because that would be the only state where the sensor is active but would be reading absolutely no pressure in the pipe. As soon as the car is on (idling) it creates an 'ambient' vacuum (AKA: not in boost) in the pipe hence your negative reading when you re-opened the app when the car was idling. The negative reading simply means you're not boosting -and the engine is sucking air (creating negative pressure) instead of being force fed (positive pressure). You only get a positive reading in boost. Is it perfect. No. But you are plugging into one sensor which has the sole purpose of reading boost at that location. We simply transmit that information to the BT app.

Hopefully that helps explain some things you were seeing. If anyone can explain it better, which I would hope, please feel free to chime in.

I do have the latest 2.0 version.

I understand the theory behind this. I was just wondering if maybe there is a conversion factor error in the way the app displays the TMAP pressure. Obviously, it doesn't send a signal to the app in psi. It would be in a (presumably) analog signal, which would then require the signal to be converted to a psi readout in the app.

The reason I'm asking is that if the app's conversion factor is correct, then even when stock, boost pressure is far higher than we have been told. I've tried to look up stock boost pressure on the N20 and I could only find one post stating 18.9 psi. I don't know if you guys put a boost pressure gauge on an engine when testing it, but that seems like something you guys would do for a reference point - not relying upon the factory pressure sensor for data. If you did, then seeing 27 psi on the app's boost gauge after the gauge has been properly zero'ed is either giving correct boost pressure, or it's not and should be reading something like 23 psi in race mode...

I think it would help to know if Dinan can verify stock peak boost measured at or near the same location as the factory TMAP sensor. Given that, and running the app in stock mode (no added boost), the app should read very close to that same boost pressure. Right now, (and like I said - after zeroing the app several times and running this same test), the boost displayed by the app is much higher than the 19 psi I was expecting in stock mode - it shows around 23 psi. And in any setting with added boost, that reading goes higher. It also drops when in valet mode. I know the device is working properly, it's just the app's boost display that I'm questioning.

Maybe it's a bug in the app??? I don't know.

Anyone else experiencing this would be nice to know. Anyone? Anyone? Bueller????

[F30Mann]

First off I would like to say that this Dinan product is great value for money. Thankfully I am a lucky person who has an android and can play with the different boost modes. After a quick install in my 2013 328i 6MT, I realized that the way the car developed power was much more linear, like my M54 330ci. With more boost, you rarely hit the peak boost unless you truly have the car wide open.

Before the install, it was a tame engine with pretty decent power delivery. After leaving the Dinan Sport-tronics in Race Mode for over a week now, I can say that the car drives very different. I am now losing traction in first gear around 3-4k rpms. I am very impressed with highway passing also. In sixth gear turning 2,750rpm the car enjoys much more torque.

One downfall, is that I cannot visually tell by the oil thermostat, but I can feel a good temperature difference under the hood when I am finished with a 20 minute drive. (Although I never really checked the temperature when the Dinan product was not installed). I just think even with a cool-down period before shut off, the engine bay should not be that hot.

Fantastic product otherwise!


2013 BMW 328i 6MT Euro Delivery 45k miles

[scanepa]

Originally Posted by scanepa

Hi all, very interested in this product. Quick question, would using this void your BMW warranty? Is it advisable to remove it before taking car to the dealer? Thanks

Dinan?
Anyone?

Thx

[Dinan_Engineering]

Originally Posted by scanepa

Dinan?
Anyone?

Thx

By law nothing will outright void your warranty. They can deny warranty coverage if a part is deemed responsible for a failure but they cannot simply deny coverage because it is there. It is up to the dealer/BMW to prove that the aftermarket part caused the failure.

I would inquire with your dealership and in particular your SA as to their stance on mods and go from there to make your own decision on what you want to do.

[E60F30]

Hi all, has anyone tried sport + mode on eco pro? Any significant difference felt?

[deviantspeed]

Originally Posted by Dinan_Engineering

By law nothing will outright void your warranty. They can deny warranty coverage if a part is deemed responsible for a failure but they cannot simply deny coverage because it is there. It is up to the dealer/BMW to prove that the aftermarket part caused the failure.

I would inquire with your dealership and in particular your SA as to their stance on mods and go from there to make your own decision on what you want to do.

Aka remove it if there's an issue.

E60, um, eco mode is eco mode. That's different than sport or sport+. If you are asking if eco mode is stock, NO... wait, I'm not sure I understand what you are asking. I think you are asking the universe to implode.

[cpxchewy]

Originally Posted by deviantspeed

Aka remove it if there's an issue.

E60, um, eco mode is eco mode. That's different than sport or sport+. If you are asking if eco mode is stock, NO... wait, I'm not sure I understand what you are asking. I think you are asking the universe to implode.

Pretty sure he meant sport/sport+ on the tune and eco pro in the drive setting.

For the most part since this is just a boost controller without any knowledge of anything else besides one connector it will increase boost the same. It will probably make eco pro not effective anymore! (not that it was very effective anyway. driving habits matter way more imo)

[scanepa]

Originally Posted by Dinan_Engineering

By law nothing will outright void your warranty. They can deny warranty coverage if a part is deemed responsible for a failure but they cannot simply deny coverage because it is there. It is up to the dealer/BMW to prove that the aftermarket part caused the failure.

I would inquire with your dealership and in particular your SA as to their stance on mods and go from there to make your own decision on what you want to do.

Thanks

[E60F30]

Originally Posted by deviantspeed

Aka remove it if there's an issue.

E60, um, eco mode is eco mode. That's different than sport or sport+. If you are asking if eco mode is stock, NO... wait, I'm not sure I understand what you are asking. I think you are asking the universe to implode.

Hah apologies for the confusion

Originally Posted by cpxchewy

Pretty sure he meant sport/sport+ on the tune and eco pro in the drive setting.

For the most part since this is just a boost controller without any knowledge of anything else besides one connector it will increase boost the same. It will probably make eco pro not effective anymore! (not that it was very effective anyway. driving habits matter way more imo)

Thanks!

[bcornwellatl]

Is this thing similar to how that "Sprint Booster" use to work? Where it would intercept the peddle signal (it use to hook into the peddle sensor) and if you eased the gas, it would send "stomp on it" to the onboard computer.

also, I have a BMS (got it about 2 years ago) map plug that plugs into about 4 or 5 different ports on the engine. It is a stage 1- but upgradable to stage 2. What's the difference in that vs this? I like the idea of one map port vs 5 - so just curious...

[Cammy5]

I just checked the iOS App Store and there was a Dinantronics app in there so maybe this situation has been remedied?

This looks like the absolute perfect solution for me for the intern until I do the Active Autowerke FMIC and BPC in-house dyno tune this next Spring. I have a few hundred dollars in store credit with a vendor because of some parts I had returned for a previous car so this upgrade will be 'free' for me. I have a few questions that will reveal my newness to the N20 engine and probably BMW engines in general....

1) May I assume that safety/drive ability are the name of the game with this tuner solution? I know the jump in hp/tq will be nice but I'm assuming that the +3psi bump in boost is still considered well within the safety realm on this engine. (What is the normal max boost on the N20?)

2) Once this is connected does the boost increase happen immediately or is it something where you have to drive the car around for X number of miles to get it to 'kick in'? I'd like to do a stock as I am now and then with this connected back to back dyno session to get some hard numbers.

3) When I do the custom tune/FMIC upgrade, is this simply a matter of unplugging it and the car goes back to 100% stock so that it can be custom tuned from a stock perspective?

4) When the above happens, is this device something that can be sold to a fellow N20 owner or is locked to a VIN?

Thanks for the answers to my questions in advance!

[subzero05]

Originally Posted by Cammy5

I just checked the iOS App Store and there was a Dinantronics app in there so maybe this situation has been remedied?

This looks like the absolute perfect solution for me for the intern until I do the Active Autowerke FMIC and BPC in-house dyno tune this next Spring. I have a few hundred dollars in store credit with a vendor because of some parts I had returned for a previous car so this upgrade will be 'free' for me. I have a few questions that will reveal my newness to the N20 engine and probably BMW engines in general....

1) May I assume that safety/drive ability are the name of the game with this tuner solution? I know the jump in hp/tq will be nice but I'm assuming that the +3psi bump in boost is still considered well within the safety realm on this engine. (What is the normal max boost on the N20?) YES

2) Once this is connected does the boost increase happen immediately or is it something where you have to drive the car around for X number of miles to get it to 'kick in'? I'd like to do a stock as I am now and then with this connected back to back dyno session to get some hard numbers. IMMEDIATE

3) When I do the custom tune/FMIC upgrade, is this simply a matter of unplugging it and the car goes back to 100% stock so that it can be custom tuned from a stock perspective?
YES
4) When the above happens, is this device something that can be sold to a fellow N20 owner or is locked to a VIN? YES can be resold

Thanks for the answers to my questions in advance!

see above for my answers to your questions.

[etinifni]

Is this the app we've all been waiting for?

[MickAv8r]

No. That is not the app. thats the app for the full boat tune and its not been updated since December 2015.

[fhlh]

Originally Posted by MickAv8r

At this point the continued lack of an iOS app is extremely frustrating. At this point I have to wonder if its even been built. The waiting for Apple excuse just no longer holds water with me. App store reviews on average take days, weeks would be a stretch, months is out of the realm of possibility especially for such a special/targeted app.

http://appreviewtimes.com/

http://www.cultofmac.com/428101/appl...-just-one-day/

Whats the real story Dinan???? Its almost October and track season is ending.

I doubt it's being made. Apple doesn't seem to like to use Bluetooth for stuff like this. Everything is WIFI. Just such for wireless ODB2 readers in Amazon. There are always different versions depending on if you are Android/Windows or IOS. I blame Apple. However, I will be REALLY chapped if DINAN comes out with a WIFI IOS version.

[MickAv8r]

Originally Posted by fhlh

I doubt it's being made. Apple doesn't seem to like to use Bluetooth for stuff like this.

Not true at all. Harry's has multiple apps that connect via Bluetooth both regular BT and low energy BT. I've got multiple BT devices working on iOS from external GPS (Dual 160), OBD2 (PLX Kiwi3) which I have 4 different apps that work fine with it(Harry's and a few OBD2 readers) and my radar detector (Escort Max2).

[fhlh]

Originally Posted by MickAv8r

Not true at all. Harry's has multiple apps that connect via Bluetooth both regular BT and low energy BT. I've got multiple BT devices working on iOS from external GPS (Dual 160), OBD2 (PLX Kiwi3) which I have 4 different apps that work fine with it(Harry's and a few OBD2 readers) and my radar detector (Escort Max2).

I have the escort, so I know that works BT, but honestly wasn't aware of a BT odb2, so I stand corrected.

What's Harrys??

[MickAv8r]

Originally Posted by fhlh

What's Harrys??

Harry's Laptimer is probably the most popular laptimer before people upgrade to real data acquisition like an AIM Solo.

http://www.gps-laptimer.de/

I prefer the ///M Laptimer however, its easier to use and the data can be exported and doesn't require an OBD2 dongle or secondary GPS.

[CK64]

Just a performance data point. I ran a 0 - 75 mph test with and without the Dinantronics Sport (set to default +3 psi) and it chopped 0.3 seconds from that time.

Using the GPS Acceleration app (I know... it's an "app" and probably not incredibly accurate) 0 - 75 mph with 91 octane gas, Sport+ and trans in D, 2000 rpm launch, no wheel spin.

Stock = 8.6 seconds

Dinantronics +3 psi = 8.3 seconds

I think this gets the car closer to 335i numbers, but not quite there. Good enough for me