[DesertSmokeBBQ]

Originally Posted by Jamesons Viggen

Got my friend a 13 MSport loaded to the gills including PPK, 2k miles, $48k including airfare from a Ford dealer today. They got it on trade for a new GT500 from a guy who ordered it and liked to burn though money. That was pretty much auction/wholesale pricing. Had it been at a BMW dealer, would have been $55k on the floor.

Sounds about right. Non-Highline dealers tend not only to be afraid of Highline cars but don't have the clientele for them. Most will keep a Highline trade 30-60 days before wholesaling it. When I worked for Penske, we had a 30 turn or wholesale/auction on all used cars, drove us batshit crazy when good merchandise like E55/63's that took a bit of time to sell but never had high allocation numbers had to be wholesaled because we KNEW we'd make a lick in time.

[btbossman]

Originally Posted by Jamesons Viggen

Got my friend a 13 MSport loaded to the gills including PPK, 2k miles, $48k including airfare from a Ford dealer today. They got it on trade for a new GT500 from a guy who ordered it and liked to burn though money. That was pretty much auction/wholesale pricing. Had it been at a BMW dealer, would have been $55k on the floor.

Yeah thats a great deal!

[Jamesons Viggen]

Originally Posted by DesertSmokeBBQ

Sounds about right. Non-Highline dealers tend not only to be afraid of Highline cars but don't have the clientele for them. Most will keep a Highline trade 30-60 days before wholesaling it. When I worked for Penske, we had a 30 turn or wholesale/auction on all used cars, drove us batshit crazy when good merchandise like E55/63's that took a bit of time to sell but never had high allocation numbers had to be wholesaled because we KNEW we'd make a lick in time.

This is a non-typical dealer. He is currently selling 2-3 used/new GTRs that will approach $70-80-100k, has Benzs, Vettes and plenty of Harleys.

He knew he was not going to have the reserve met on eBay and my friend was buying cash-so he knew to make a strong deal.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BMW-3...t_19305wt_1165

[DesertSmokeBBQ]

Originally Posted by rallybull

That is a bug in the mobile app. If you respond to someone else's message after arriving at the message by responding to a notification event ( in iPhone by swiping across the notification to open the message) you will get this error.
Try to "directly navigate" to the thread and reply to others' posts.

so annoying...

[Ron335]

Originally Posted by OC40

That's what she said...

Lmaoo

[tntsE90]

Best thing to do is not buy a first year car if you can. From experience, the majority of the problems occur on cars made the first one or two years with the first year being the worst.

[btbossman]

Originally Posted by tntsE90

Best thing to do is not buy a first year car if you can. From experience, the majority of the problems occur on cars made the first one or two years with the first year being the worst.

And this is most definitely one of those 2 years (minimum) cars!

[tony20009]

Maybe this is why: http://www.roadandtrack.com/car-revi...n-65-3-roa1013

[ronin951]

Originally Posted by btbossman

And this is most definitely one of those 2 years (minimum) cars!

Let me understand. Are you suggesting wait 2 MY since inception and then get one that is 1-2 years used? By that logic you would be buying 2014 <insert make/model> in 2016. 4 years since inital release. Assuming you hold for 5 years, then in 2021 you'd have to hope the next 'version' came out > 4 years ago (<=2017). That's probably not going to be the case. BMW generally is about a 5-6 year cycle. That means a new release in 2018ish. Thus you'd want to wait another year to get the "latest" 4 y/o car.

So, now your current car is approaching an 11 y/o car that's basically 2 revisions back. Like having a late e36 last year when the F30 came out. Right now, who would you really buy a late e36 over an early e46? Seems to me you'd take the depreciation hit on the tail end. Probably not as bad as if buying NIB, but amortized the difference probably isn't that much an month. Maintenance might even offset that.

Yes, this post probably has a lot of false assumptions and isn't consistent with reality, but I gotta justify my financial misdeeds in one way or another

Either way I think we should all have a goal of paying cash for cars and put the payments in savings. Compounding interest/dividends can get you a 335 for 328 money...or offset the initial depreciation hit.

[imyopusha]

I bought my '12 that was 10 months used with 12k miles that had an MSRP of over 57k for $41.9 (non-certified) I've never had a problem and absolutely love it. It's nice having one of the safest sedans on the road for the price of a loaded Maxima.

[btbossman]

Originally Posted by ronin951

Let me understand. Are you suggesting wait 2 MY since inception and then get one that is 1-2 years used? By that logic you would be buying 2014 <insert make/model> in 2016. 4 years since inital release. Assuming you hold for 5 years, then in 2021 you'd have to hope the next 'version' came out > 4 years ago (<=2017). That's probably not going to be the case. BMW generally is about a 5-6 year cycle. That means a new release in 2018ish. Thus you'd want to wait another year to get the "latest" 4 y/o car.

So, now your current car is approaching an 11 y/o car that's basically 2 revisions back. Like having a late e36 last year when the F30 came out. Right now, who would you really buy a late e36 over an early e46? Seems to me you'd take the depreciation hit on the tail end. Probably not as bad as if buying NIB, but amortized the difference probably isn't that much an month. Maintenance might even offset that.

Yes, this post probably has a lot of false assumptions and isn't consistent with reality, but I gotta justify my financial misdeeds in one way or another

Either way I think we should all have a goal of paying cash for cars and put the payments in savings. Compounding interest/dividends can get you a 335 for 328 money...or offset the initial depreciation hit.

No, what I'm saying is this is definitely one of those cars which still has issues through the second MY(at least). Although I love BMW's, I would NEVER buy one, it just doesn't make sense for me...Im paying 22.5k for my 45k mile 3 years lease on a 60k car...In either case buying a used one say for 42k with miles on it, or purchasing brand new for 56ish after incentives then putting the 45k on it anyways, Im losing more than my total lease amount of 22.5k.