10-11-2014, 02:12 AM | #23 |
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4"6 for a stock 335/435i is simply impossible.
And an MPPK with 335hp what's gonna do? 4"3??? I don't believe to this numbers. According to me, the most reliable are Bmw's number
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10-11-2014, 07:04 AM | #24 | |
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10-11-2014, 07:27 AM | #25 |
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Magazine 0-60 times is just one data point in a car review and has so many variables its deviation can be more then +/-0.5 seconds. Track conditions, tires, driver, density altitude, heat soak, roll out, weight, options, etc. a much more consistent test on overall engine output is trap speed in the 1/4 mile.
Drive both and it's pretty easy to see and feel the difference is greater then the magazine drag race. |
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10-11-2014, 09:37 AM | #26 |
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Jeez, people! 0-60 times? WTF? Cars have been fast enough for decades that 0-60 is such an irrelevant number. Magazine racing is for teenagers - that's what I did until I actually got my own car - a real shitbox, too - and 0-60 on it was in the teens.
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10-11-2014, 09:46 AM | #27 | |
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10-11-2014, 01:14 PM | #28 | |
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Sorry for my poor english, but "one foot rollout" what does it means?
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10-11-2014, 02:01 PM | #29 | |
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A Few Words About Rollout The term "rollout" might not be familiar, but it comes from the drag strip. The arrangement of the timing beams for drag racing can be confusing, primarily because the 7-inch separation between the "pre-stage" and "stage" beams is not the source of rollout. The pre-stage beam, which has no effect on timing, is only there to help drivers creep up to the starting position. Rollout comes from the 1-foot separation (11.5 inches, actually) between the point where the leading edge of a front tire "rolls in" to the final staging beam — triggering the countdown to the green light that starts the race — and the point where the trailing edge of that tire "rolls out" of that same beam, the triggering event that starts the clock. A driver skilled at "shallow staging" can therefore get almost a free foot of untimed acceleration before the clock officially starts, effectively achieving a rolling-start velocity of 3-5 mph and shaving the 0.3 second it typically takes to cover that distance off his elapsed time (ET) in the process. We believe the use of rollout for quarter-mile timed runs is appropriate, as this test is designed to represent an optimum drag strip run that a car owner can replicate at a drag strip. In the spirit of consistency, we also follow NHRA practice when calculating quarter-mile trap speed at the end of the run. So we publish the average speed over the final 66 feet of the quarter-mile run, even though our VBOX can tell us the instantaneous speed at the end of the 1,320-foot course, which is usually faster. On the other hand, the use of rollout with 0-60 times is inappropriate in our view. For one, 0-60-mph acceleration is not a drag-racing convention. More important, it's called ZERO to 60 mph, not 3 or 4 mph to 60 mph, which is what you get when you apply rollout. While it is tempting to use rollout in order to make 0-60 acceleration look more impressive by 0.3 second, thereby hyping both the car's performance and the apparent skill of the test driver, we think it's cheating. Nevertheless, some car magazines and some automobile manufacturers use rollout anyway — and fail to tell their customers. We've decided against this practice. We publish real 0-60 times instead. But in order to illuminate this issue and ensure we do justice to every car's real performance, we've begun publishing a clearly marked "with rollout" 0-60 time alongside the primary no-rollout 0-60 time so readers can see the effects of this bogus practice. http://www.edmunds.com/car-reviews/f...nd-trucks.html
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10-11-2014, 02:08 PM | #30 |
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Basic thing to understand is at a drag strip starting line there are four sets of lights on the tree.
Pre-Stage top two yellow lights, one for each lane. Staged next set down two yellow lights, one for each lane. Start lights, 3 orange 1 green for each lane. They typically sequence 1/2 second apart Foul light 1 red light for each lane, comes on it you launch early. As a car creeps toward the two light beams of the starting area, its front tire will eventually block the first beam and trigger a "prestage" warning. This informs the driver that the official starting line, where the "stage beam" shines across the track, is only seven inches ahead. When the front tire triggers that second beam, the vehicle is properly staged for a run. However, the vehicle's position can still vary by well over a foot while its front tires are blocking the stage beam. This is critical, because the drag-strip clock does not start until the second light, or stage beam, is uncovered. It is this distance that is the critical rollout. The length of the rollout depends on the diameter of the tire and where the driver chooses to position the car at the start. Although the rollout distance is typically only a foot or so of a quarter-mile, it can affect the elapsed time by as much as 0.3 second Since the rollout can vary all over the place Car & Driver actually measures the distance required for the specific test cars tires to uncover the start beam. They then position the car so that all test cars will have exactly a 1 foot rollout. A sneaky old fart driver will if he can get away with it will come into the beams at as much angle as he can. This effectively lengthens the rollout allowing you to game the starting lights. Also some cars will move their back ends left or right on a hard launch. You can also use the angle to enable the car to straighten itself out in relation to the track with less driver input.
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10-11-2014, 02:18 PM | #31 | |
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That's why it makes sense to compare C&D times to other cars they have tested. But you can't compare C&D tests to Road and Track since there is already approximately 0.3s difference before the tests are even started. Car and Driver and Motortrend are comparable.
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10-11-2014, 02:34 PM | #32 |
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I drive 100-130 MPH everyday on my way to work. Don't hate on german roads...and the 3.0 perform beautiful!
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10-11-2014, 02:39 PM | #33 | |
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10-11-2014, 03:10 PM | #34 | |
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I think that rollout has no sense for the reasons expressed by the bold phrase. None of the major car magazine I use to read is used to measuring 0-100kmh (0-62mph) w/rollout...
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10-11-2014, 04:15 PM | #35 | ||
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10-11-2014, 04:20 PM | #36 | ||
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10-11-2014, 04:53 PM | #38 |
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LOL, ok...I guess the meaning of my post was misconstrued as a 435i vs. 428i thing. That wasn't my point, since both cars are slow as shit to me. I was simply making fun of the kids above who get their jollies off 0-60 times by highlighting the insignificance of it as a measurement of how fast a car is. One tenth of a difference in 0-60 obviously didn't paint a full picture, but of course magazine racers wouldn't see that. Being a 435i and 428i is irrelevant...call them Car A and Car B.
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10-11-2014, 05:01 PM | #39 |
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from what I read on here...one of the reasons why you get the 435 is knowing you have that extra HP (which is never really used in everyday normal driving) and the sound. I think the sound is the biggest difference. You get a better sounding engine with the 435. You pay for that sound. although the 428 active sound helps.
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10-11-2014, 05:59 PM | #40 | |
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Test drive both cars thoroughly. Decide for yourself. I drove the 328 and the 335 and choose the 328 because it was plenty fast enough for me. I liked the 328 because it cost less, got better gas mileage, and is lighter and possibly more nimble due to less weight in front. The N20 sound in the 328 didn't bother me so that was not a factor. I've had the 328 15 months now and I love it. But that's me. You should decide for yourself. BTW, the difference is price is not over $5,000 plus IF you get options. The 35 comes with features that are standard that are optional on the 28. So, build both in the configuration you want and see the price difference for yourself. The difference can be as low as $3,200. Regarding performance of the two cars. We get a lot of info from forum members and car magazines about 0-60 times and 1/4 mile times, etc. It would be very interesting if a real test of the two platforms were made on a road course race track with professional drivers using cars set up with the same tires and the same transmission. Have the drivers swap cars and do the test again. Then, we would have some really useful information about the relative performance on key real world factors such as cornering and braking. Given the extra power and torque of the 35, it would probably win, but by how much?...and, is that difference important for day to day driving? If of course, the 35 is being purchased because of the smoothness and sound of the in-line 6 and the bragging rights of the numbers on the trunk lid, then none of these performance numbers matter anyway. |
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10-11-2014, 06:04 PM | #41 | |
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10-11-2014, 09:08 PM | #42 | |
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10-11-2014, 11:32 PM | #44 |
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in addition to auto vs. manual for the 35 and 28 don't forget the rear tire width and the fact that some cars come with all seasons and some summer tires
For example, a 6MT 335 with the 225 all season tires is going to struggle to put the power down and it will be a close race against an 8AT 328 with 255 summer tires 335 is faster but the gap between the two cars is definitely closer than E90 generation |
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