March 15, pre-LCI 335d, things to check for?

Mr Whippy · 11-02-2017, 04:04 PM

I'm going to look at an AUC BMW with 1 owner and 25k miles.

Obviously BMW do lots of checks and whatnot, but ideally I'd rather avoid a problem car than spend weeks faffing with BMW trying to fix issues later.

So apart from the usual stuff, are there specifics to a 335d xdrive that I should look for?

I assume it should have had a service around 18k and no later than March this year.
And probably brake fluid service and an air con service too?

The car has an active 5yr maintenance pack so I assume there are no excuses for missed services.

What were OEM rft at this time? I've seen a few varieties used. Are there preferred ones if they need replacing?

Any tell tale signs of DPF issues or EGR issues?

Is the awd system generally considered solid, despite launch control? I've not read about any issues in all my recent reading.

Is there anything else I should check is provided that an AUC may not be required to have?
Ie full keys as new, quality OEM mats etc?

Thanks for any advice!

Dave

GEP77 · 11-02-2017, 04:25 PM

Brake fluid is at 3 years so will not have been done yet.

It is likely to only have had one service, this could have been anywhere between about 15,000 and 22,000 miles. The earlier it was done the harder it has been driven.

In the 73,000 miles I did in mine I had three issues. The egr valve was replaced at the end of warranty (warning light came on the week before it was due in, no loss of power). The steering rack was replaced under warranty - the steering was noisy when turning right and you could feel a judder through the wheel. And finally the iDrive would randomly reset. This was resolved by replacing the whole unit.

The xDrive worked faultlessly throughout.

Check for excessive wear in the cabin (saggy leather and the like) it should still be in good condition. Make sure the seat bolsters (especially the drivers) haven't been crushed.

A good look all round outside, tyres should have at least 4mm (minimum as I understand it for AUC) across all the surface. There was no set supplier, but I'd expect them all to be the same make. On the 335d the rears are likely to wear ever so slightly quicker than the fronts. Wear should be very even across the tyre. If it isn't it could indicate an bad altercation with a pot hole. Avoid.

Have a look at the brake disks and pads. A significant lip on the disks means they are fairly well worn and will need replacing soon (expensive at dealers), pads should have plenty of meat left on them.

Aircon itself doesn't get serviced unless it is faulty. The pollen filter is replaced at each scheduled service.

Mats should all be there, 2 keys. If it has extended storage make sure it has all the boot fixings in place.

Hope this all helps.

M2Andy · 11-02-2017, 04:41 PM

Push them into a 2yr AUC warranty as part of the deal.
They won’t like it and may even claim it’s not possible but trust me it is and its great for extra peace of mind!

Theone88 · 11-02-2017, 05:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mr Whippy

I'm going to look at an AUC BMW with 1 owner and 25k miles.

Obviously BMW do lots of checks and whatnot, but ideally I'd rather avoid a problem car than spend weeks faffing with BMW trying to fix issues later.

So apart from the usual stuff, are there specifics to a 335d xdrive that I should look for?

I assume it should have had a service around 18k and no later than March this year.
And probably brake fluid service and an air con service too?

The car has an active 5yr maintenance pack so I assume there are no excuses for missed services.

What were OEM rft at this time? I've seen a few varieties used. Are there preferred ones if they need replacing?

Any tell tale signs of DPF issues or EGR issues?

Is the awd system generally considered solid, despite launch control? I've not read about any issues in all my recent reading.

Is there anything else I should check is provided that an AUC may not be required to have?
Ie full keys as new, quality OEM mats etc?

Thanks for any advice!

Dave

Word of advice, don't expect AUC to mean they've checked everything (or anything!)

Mr Whippy · 11-02-2017, 05:15 PM

I'd considered another 12 month warranty (BMW but not AUC), but extending AUC and not haggling on price would be better for us.

That way we get 6 mo factory warranty then 18 mo dealer.
Plus the 2.5y of maintenance pack.

That'd certainly put many concerns on the back-burner.

However like GEP77 mentioned, avoiding some damage type faults before putting money down is preferable to proving things later too.

I know BMW AUC will do tyres at 4mm and brakes too at certain levels.
I assume though that they do this after a sale is made but before hand over... so an opportunity to check the quality and life of the car is possible.

I'd think at 27k miles and 2.5 yrs it'd be due or recently had tyres and discs/pads.

It'd be nice to see the launch control use counter... I bet there is one in there somewhere haha!

teaston · 11-02-2017, 05:18 PM

Make sure it’s not a 318d that the previous owner put a 335d badge on!

Steces · 11-02-2017, 06:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mr Whippy

It'd be nice to see the launch control use counter... I bet there is one in there somewhere haha!

Exactly this

Ive asked the question here myself but never got a satisfactory answer

Launch is addictive and if you have PCP'd or leased the car then why wouldnt you at every opportunity?? I love it, the kids love it, admittedly the missus and the dog are less keen but its just so much fun.

Ive been running a leased 335d for several reasons, the main one being I wasnt sure it would be big enough for our family snotter - it is by the way - with a view to buying an F31 when the term ends and when I do I would be very, very wary of ending up with one thats been through the LC process every day.

Number of launches just has to be logged somewhere.

Cheers

JD6 · 11-02-2017, 07:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Theone88

Word of advice, don't expect AUC to mean they've checked everything (or anything!)

I agree. The AUC check might notice if there was a wheel or door missing, but that's about their level of detail.

I would check the cosmetic condition of the car very carefully to make sure it's as expected. That's the stuff that's not covered under warranty and could cause a disagreement if you find a bodywork / paint / interior defect after driving it away.

Mattyk · 11-03-2017, 12:41 AM

Pre lci

I would say

Make sure the brakes are not too worn if msport + they are expensive
Suspension is shocking without ACS springs
Seal squeaks and squeals
Corrosion on the wheels at the centre
Run flats, my 64 plate had p zeros, they lasted 18k and were supposed to be far better than the potenza also used at the time. Switching to non run flats does improve handling imo.
That the sat nav is up to date?
And I would definitely ask about the warranty especially for the drivetrain as it may have been "launched" a lot.

JNW1 · 11-03-2017, 01:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Steces

Launch is addictive and if you have PCP'd or leased the car then why wouldnt you at every opportunity??

My car is PCP'd, over 3 years old and is approaching 50k miles; however, I've never used launch control once because I find the car more than capable of at least keeping-up with most things without it.

To the OP, though, I would agree that with a pre-LCI car you may need to budget for some ACS springs if you like to have a bit of fun on the twisty bits. My car has adaptive suspension but even with that in sport mode the chassis is a bit soft for pressing on IMO...

Mr Whippy · 11-03-2017, 04:00 AM

I'd read early reviews of the early 335d that seemed to think it was ok.
LCI made it better.

I have test driven (not a great test) an AUC LCI on 19" and didn't think it especially great to start with, so I'm not expecting super dynamics. Just comfy competence.
I'm betting in a blind test I'd not spot the differences without a good few hours of testing each one at 7/10th plus?

My E85 Z4 was slated a bit for steering but I find it perfectly acceptable, but there is lots of feel via nvh and the suspension and sports seats etc.

Agree 100% on checking the AUC over as it's not a guarantee of an as-new car.

On LC counter, I imagine a tool like INPA would show it. I'm not sure if BMW still use inpa and keep it updated.

My e85 z4 has roof up/down counters. Strangely they're about 50 counts different haha.

On brakes, are they identical between pre/LCI?
I'll take my tyre depth gauge, pressure gauge, and my torch and have a good inspection.
For the money it needs to be spot on, otherwise I may as well go buy a much newer car for what is ultimately not s huge amount more money.

Just out of interest does anyone know of an agent type system where you can get cars checked and then delivered by a 3rd party?
I know people on Pistonheads used to do it with TVRs some years ago.

There was/is a car at Farmborough BMW right now for example, it looks great. But I'd rather not drive all that way from Harrogate to find its not right. If it were I'd want it there and then and not have to travel back again.

JNW1 · 11-03-2017, 05:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mr Whippy

I'd read early reviews of the early 335d that seemed to think it was ok.
LCI made it better.

I have test driven (not a great test) an AUC LCI on 19" and didn't think it especially great to start with, so I'm not expecting super dynamics. Just comfy competence.
I'm betting in a blind test I'd not spot the differences without a good few hours of testing each one at 7/10th plus?

Guess it all depends on what your expectations are and what you want from the car!

My pre-LCI is on 18" wheels with adaptive suspension; the ride is pretty good and for me the chassis only falls down when you want to push on the twisty bits (when it's too soft even in sport mode IMO). However, I don't drive like that very often so, although I've thought about fitting ACS springs on more than one occasion, I've never actually done it because 90% of the time the car's ok.

The other thing I'm not so keen on with my car is the brakes as, while they do stop you, they never feel especially powerful or reassuring. My initial order included the M-Sport Plus Pack (with the upgraded brakes) but at the time mine was on order there was an issue with supplies from Brembo and I opted not to wait - and deleted M-Sport Plus - on the basis the brakes on my previous BMW's had been fine. With hindsight perhaps not a great decision although brakes are easily upgraded come replacement time if I feel the need; however, at over 47k miles the original pads seem to have plenty of life left in them so no need for a decision just yet!

Jeff123 · 11-03-2017, 06:50 AM

Could you go for a slightly newer car to get the LCI? Its only a few months away from when the car that you are looking at was registered.

Other than that, I would look over the car for cosmetic issues.

The front spoilers seem to pick up stone chips. These can be made to look better with wax if the car is prepared well, but next couple of washes and they will appear again.

Is the engine bay clean?

Trim loose or missing.

Rattles.

Tyre condition, and alloys.

Look at the front/rear spoilers for signs of a repair.

Excessive scratching on trim - door handles, auto shift, etc.

Make sure that the toolkit is fully complete.

Mattyk · 11-03-2017, 06:54 AM

I found the pre lci pre ACS springs non adaptive 335d to be like a ship when the wind blew on the motorway, rolling all over the place.

Personally I would want ACS or probably to replace the dampers if there not adaptive.

I replaced the springs on my 435 which has adaptive and better dampers and it still makes a significant difference, although not as great as on the 335d

.

lethbridge · 11-03-2017, 07:23 AM

I wouldn't walk away from a good car that is to the spec you are after based on brakes or tyre condition (or any other easily replaceable items) - that is purely a financial consideration (unless the wear is particularly unusual of course - it is normal for outsides of fronts to wear unless inflated above the recommended pressure) - just use it to knock the price down or get them to replace them & do a proper wheel alignment as part of the deal.

In my experience the 35d is a very reliable engine (I've done around 250k miles across 3 cars so far) and I've done 60k on xDrive so far with no complaints. The engine and gearbox (I think) is available in M50d guise so it can take a fair amount of abuse.

I'd say LC question would be impossible to answer as you can achieve the same effect without actually engaging LC - foot on brake, hold revs at 3k, drop brake & floor it...

You are looking at a relatively low mileage for the age which would tend to indicate it has spent much of its time around town so I guess things around the DPF/EGR would ideally need checking out but no idea how! I think I may be tempted to go higher mileage in exchange for post LCI if the numbers work but I don't think it really matters too much as long as you are looking for a comfortable rather than overtly sporty ride - getting the right spec & colour for your taste is usually the toughest thing unless you aren't too fussed about that. Hope it goes well it is a great car...

Mr Whippy · 11-03-2017, 07:37 AM

My ideal spec is:

M sport plus (I'm a tart), nav pro, and electric mem seats.

I'm struggling on pre/post LCI as I've not driven either to know how relevant the changes are.
I did drive an LCI briefly but nowhere near properly. In comfort mode it felt very average. If pre-LCI is still just a bit less average I'll be fine. I still have my E85 3.0 Z4 for 'stiff' BMW experiences.

This is the car I'm looking at:
https://usedcars.bmw.co.uk/vehicle/2...8-ec9a3bddbc18

Alternatively this one looks ok too:
https://www.autotrader.co.uk/classif...d=Nearly%20New

And a white one same as above one at JCT600 Bradford, but I'd ask for it to be moved to Leeds Bradford branch. BUT it's white. Bottom of my pile for colours.

I just want to avoid paying too new/low miles to lose £££ on a non perfect spec car.
Happy to lose on value on the right car, basically.
If a perfect car came up nearby for say £30-£35 I'd jump on it.

So £23 for the first car seems ok, £28 for the newer is ok given its proximity.

There are better out there but I just want a car fast as my wife and I are still using a 65 3dr Fiesta ST with our 6 month old baby and it's getting tiring, plus it's impossible to be going hundreds of miles to see cars.

I paid £200 to get the first car over to Harrogate on Tuesday. Still waiting... sigh.

I sometimes feel like Stratstone don't like selling AUC haha.
They make out like an msport plus pack car is 'high spec', and electric seats are some kind of blue moon event!

JNW1 · 11-03-2017, 07:59 AM

I wouldn't look at anything second-hand for much over £30k as post-discount you'd get a new one for similar money. Also, not sure how you're intending to buy (outright purchase or finance) but if the latter again that would push me towards new - for a given deposit the monthly repayment could easily be less than for a second-hand car!

If you don't want to wait for a factory order I'm pretty sure BMW dealers can see what new cars are in stock nationally so maybe have a word with Stratstone along those lines if you haven't already?

Only other thought is with a little one and the associated gear to cart around wouldn't you be better with a Touring than a saloon?!

JNW1 · 11-03-2017, 08:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mr Whippy

There are better out there but I just want a car fast as my wife and I are still using a 65 3dr Fiesta ST with our 6 month old baby and it's getting tiring, plus it's impossible to be going hundreds of miles to see cars.

If you fancy Estoril Blue how about something like this? Obviously not a BMW AUC and I don't know anything about the dealer in question; however, if it's a straight, honest, car, I daresay you could barter them down on price and get a warranty thrown in - more practical than a saloon as well!

https://www.autotrader.co.uk/classif...at_cars&page=1

Jeff123 · 11-03-2017, 11:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mr Whippy

My ideal spec is:

M sport plus (I'm a tart), nav pro, and electric mem seats.

I'm struggling on pre/post LCI as I've not driven either to know how relevant the changes are.
I did drive an LCI briefly but nowhere near properly. In comfort mode it felt very average. If pre-LCI is still just a bit less average I'll be fine. I still have my E85 3.0 Z4 for 'stiff' BMW experiences.

This is the car I'm looking at:
https://usedcars.bmw.co.uk/vehicle/2...8-ec9a3bddbc18

Alternatively this one looks ok too:
https://www.autotrader.co.uk/classif...d=Nearly%20New

And a white one same as above one at JCT600 Bradford, but I'd ask for it to be moved to Leeds Bradford branch. BUT it's white. Bottom of my pile for colours.

I just want to avoid paying too new/low miles to lose £££ on a non perfect spec car.
Happy to lose on value on the right car, basically.
If a perfect car came up nearby for say £30-£35 I'd jump on it.

So £23 for the first car seems ok, £28 for the newer is ok given its proximity.

There are better out there but I just want a car fast as my wife and I are still using a 65 3dr Fiesta ST with our 6 month old baby and it's getting tiring, plus it's impossible to be going hundreds of miles to see cars.

I paid £200 to get the first car over to Harrogate on Tuesday. Still waiting... sigh.

I sometimes feel like Stratstone don't like selling AUC haha.
They make out like an msport plus pack car is 'high spec', and electric seats are some kind of blue moon event!

Both of those look too expensive to me, the first one by £2k an the 2nd one by £3-4k IMO.

Jeff123 · 11-03-2017, 11:21 AM

What about this:

https://www.autotrader.co.uk/classif...vert-type=ymal

Its only done 10K miles, is AUC and LCI, and its not a million miles from Harrogate. Still looks pricey, but you will be able to knock them down in price.

335dMSport+ · 11-03-2017, 01:21 PM

I've just pm'd you if you're interested in buying a well looked after forum 335d Estoril Blue with red leather within your price range

Mr Whippy · 11-03-2017, 01:51 PM

The deposit for the Hull car went though but no one at Hull took action.
So the car is still sat for sale in Hull.

Apparently because their sales manager wasn't around to action the email (holiday?)
Wednesday at the earliest now so I'm asking for deposit back.

Sooo, on to the next car.
https://www.autotrader.co.uk/classif...d=Nearly%20New

Yes over-priced probably. But one of a tiny handful with memory seats.

There is a similar spec white one nearby with the same spec at the same price with a different network so it seems semi-reasonable.

JNW1, I'd go for the ELCC type one, and the seller seems a nice chap on the phone, but no VRM given unless you view, and a few online reviews led me to worry I may be wasting my time (ie cars upon checking have unsavoury pasts)
I just don't have the time to waste, even though it's been perpetually wasted by dealers so far any way.

Jeff123, it looks a fine example, just no mem seats?
Memory seats are the bane of my life haha... but ime the 3er seats are so hard to adjust consistently my wife and me would be going mad with swap overs.
Needing to get out to lift the seat, or rear seat flapping back when doing the backrest and hitting our baby's feet, hmmmm. You can't even do a '3 clicks back, 4 pumps down' type adjustment, just very poor imo.

On prices, I think 5k miles and 1yr old for £28 is ok.
We're trading and paying the rest in cash.

This car is better for the money:
https://www.autotrader.co.uk/classif...d=Nearly%20New

But so far away!

11-02-2017, 04:04 PM	#1
Mr Whippy Lieutenant 136 Rep 493 Posts Drives: F30 335Xd, E81 130i Join Date: Nov 2017 Location: North UK iTrader: (0)	March 15, pre-LCI 335d, things to check for? I'm going to look at an AUC BMW with 1 owner and 25k miles. Obviously BMW do lots of checks and whatnot, but ideally I'd rather avoid a problem car than spend weeks faffing with BMW trying to fix issues later. So apart from the usual stuff, are there specifics to a 335d xdrive that I should look for? I assume it should have had a service around 18k and no later than March this year. And probably brake fluid service and an air con service too? The car has an active 5yr maintenance pack so I assume there are no excuses for missed services. What were OEM rft at this time? I've seen a few varieties used. Are there preferred ones if they need replacing? Any tell tale signs of DPF issues or EGR issues? Is the awd system generally considered solid, despite launch control? I've not read about any issues in all my recent reading. Is there anything else I should check is provided that an AUC may not be required to have? Ie full keys as new, quality OEM mats etc? Thanks for any advice! Dave
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11-02-2017, 04:25 PM	#2
GEP77 Major 409 Rep 1,162 Posts Drives: Tesla Model 3 Long Range. Join Date: Nov 2013 Location: South East London iTrader: (1)	Brake fluid is at 3 years so will not have been done yet. It is likely to only have had one service, this could have been anywhere between about 15,000 and 22,000 miles. The earlier it was done the harder it has been driven. In the 73,000 miles I did in mine I had three issues. The egr valve was replaced at the end of warranty (warning light came on the week before it was due in, no loss of power). The steering rack was replaced under warranty - the steering was noisy when turning right and you could feel a judder through the wheel. And finally the iDrive would randomly reset. This was resolved by replacing the whole unit. The xDrive worked faultlessly throughout. Check for excessive wear in the cabin (saggy leather and the like) it should still be in good condition. Make sure the seat bolsters (especially the drivers) haven't been crushed. A good look all round outside, tyres should have at least 4mm (minimum as I understand it for AUC) across all the surface. There was no set supplier, but I'd expect them all to be the same make. On the 335d the rears are likely to wear ever so slightly quicker than the fronts. Wear should be very even across the tyre. If it isn't it could indicate an bad altercation with a pot hole. Avoid. Have a look at the brake disks and pads. A significant lip on the disks means they are fairly well worn and will need replacing soon (expensive at dealers), pads should have plenty of meat left on them. Aircon itself doesn't get serviced unless it is faulty. The pollen filter is replaced at each scheduled service. Mats should all be there, 2 keys. If it has extended storage make sure it has all the boot fixings in place. Hope this all helps.
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11-02-2017, 04:41 PM	#3
M2Andy Lieutenant 225 Rep 451 Posts Drives: G01 Join Date: Nov 2014 Location: Norfolk iTrader: (0)	Push them into a 2yr AUC warranty as part of the deal. They won’t like it and may even claim it’s not possible but trust me it is and its great for extra peace of mind!
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11-02-2017, 05:15 PM	#5
Mr Whippy Lieutenant 136 Rep 493 Posts Drives: F30 335Xd, E81 130i Join Date: Nov 2017 Location: North UK iTrader: (0)	I'd considered another 12 month warranty (BMW but not AUC), but extending AUC and not haggling on price would be better for us. That way we get 6 mo factory warranty then 18 mo dealer. Plus the 2.5y of maintenance pack. That'd certainly put many concerns on the back-burner. However like GEP77 mentioned, avoiding some damage type faults before putting money down is preferable to proving things later too. I know BMW AUC will do tyres at 4mm and brakes too at certain levels. I assume though that they do this after a sale is made but before hand over... so an opportunity to check the quality and life of the car is possible. I'd think at 27k miles and 2.5 yrs it'd be due or recently had tyres and discs/pads. It'd be nice to see the launch control use counter... I bet there is one in there somewhere haha!
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11-02-2017, 05:18 PM	#6
teaston Banned 10994 Rep 32,881 Posts Drives: X3 M40d Join Date: May 2012 Location: The High Seas iTrader: (1)	Make sure it’s not a 318d that the previous owner put a 335d badge on!
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11-03-2017, 12:41 AM	#9
Mattyk Lieutenant Colonel 591 Rep 1,797 Posts Drives: G20 M340i Join Date: Oct 2014 Location: Lancashire iTrader: (0)	Pre lci I would say Make sure the brakes are not too worn if msport + they are expensive Suspension is shocking without ACS springs Seal squeaks and squeals Corrosion on the wheels at the centre Run flats, my 64 plate had p zeros, they lasted 18k and were supposed to be far better than the potenza also used at the time. Switching to non run flats does improve handling imo. That the sat nav is up to date? And I would definitely ask about the warranty especially for the drivetrain as it may have been "launched" a lot. __________________ G20 M340i Gone F36 435d F30 335d
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11-03-2017, 04:00 AM	#11
Mr Whippy Lieutenant 136 Rep 493 Posts Drives: F30 335Xd, E81 130i Join Date: Nov 2017 Location: North UK iTrader: (0)	I'd read early reviews of the early 335d that seemed to think it was ok. LCI made it better. I have test driven (not a great test) an AUC LCI on 19" and didn't think it especially great to start with, so I'm not expecting super dynamics. Just comfy competence. I'm betting in a blind test I'd not spot the differences without a good few hours of testing each one at 7/10th plus? My E85 Z4 was slated a bit for steering but I find it perfectly acceptable, but there is lots of feel via nvh and the suspension and sports seats etc. Agree 100% on checking the AUC over as it's not a guarantee of an as-new car. On LC counter, I imagine a tool like INPA would show it. I'm not sure if BMW still use inpa and keep it updated. My e85 z4 has roof up/down counters. Strangely they're about 50 counts different haha. On brakes, are they identical between pre/LCI? I'll take my tyre depth gauge, pressure gauge, and my torch and have a good inspection. For the money it needs to be spot on, otherwise I may as well go buy a much newer car for what is ultimately not s huge amount more money. Just out of interest does anyone know of an agent type system where you can get cars checked and then delivered by a 3rd party? I know people on Pistonheads used to do it with TVRs some years ago. There was/is a car at Farmborough BMW right now for example, it looks great. But I'd rather not drive all that way from Harrogate to find its not right. If it were I'd want it there and then and not have to travel back again.
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11-03-2017, 06:50 AM	#13
Jeff123 Jeff 318 Rep 1,451 Posts Drives: 330d M Sport x-drive F30 Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Yorkshire iTrader: (0)	Could you go for a slightly newer car to get the LCI? Its only a few months away from when the car that you are looking at was registered. Other than that, I would look over the car for cosmetic issues. The front spoilers seem to pick up stone chips. These can be made to look better with wax if the car is prepared well, but next couple of washes and they will appear again. Is the engine bay clean? Trim loose or missing. Rattles. Tyre condition, and alloys. Look at the front/rear spoilers for signs of a repair. Excessive scratching on trim - door handles, auto shift, etc. Make sure that the toolkit is fully complete.
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11-03-2017, 06:54 AM	#14
Mattyk Lieutenant Colonel 591 Rep 1,797 Posts Drives: G20 M340i Join Date: Oct 2014 Location: Lancashire iTrader: (0)	I found the pre lci pre ACS springs non adaptive 335d to be like a ship when the wind blew on the motorway, rolling all over the place. Personally I would want ACS or probably to replace the dampers if there not adaptive. I replaced the springs on my 435 which has adaptive and better dampers and it still makes a significant difference, although not as great as on the 335d . __________________ G20 M340i Gone F36 435d F30 335d
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11-03-2017, 07:23 AM	#15
lethbridge Captain 470 Rep 784 Posts Drives: 2018 F80 M3 CP YMB Join Date: Feb 2012 Location: United Kingdom iTrader: (0) Garage List 2018 BMW M3 CP [10.00]	I wouldn't walk away from a good car that is to the spec you are after based on brakes or tyre condition (or any other easily replaceable items) - that is purely a financial consideration (unless the wear is particularly unusual of course - it is normal for outsides of fronts to wear unless inflated above the recommended pressure) - just use it to knock the price down or get them to replace them & do a proper wheel alignment as part of the deal. In my experience the 35d is a very reliable engine (I've done around 250k miles across 3 cars so far) and I've done 60k on xDrive so far with no complaints. The engine and gearbox (I think) is available in M50d guise so it can take a fair amount of abuse. I'd say LC question would be impossible to answer as you can achieve the same effect without actually engaging LC - foot on brake, hold revs at 3k, drop brake & floor it... You are looking at a relatively low mileage for the age which would tend to indicate it has spent much of its time around town so I guess things around the DPF/EGR would ideally need checking out but no idea how! I think I may be tempted to go higher mileage in exchange for post LCI if the numbers work but I don't think it really matters too much as long as you are looking for a comfortable rather than overtly sporty ride - getting the right spec & colour for your taste is usually the toughest thing unless you aren't too fussed about that. Hope it goes well it is a great car...
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11-03-2017, 07:37 AM	#16
Mr Whippy Lieutenant 136 Rep 493 Posts Drives: F30 335Xd, E81 130i Join Date: Nov 2017 Location: North UK iTrader: (0)	My ideal spec is: M sport plus (I'm a tart), nav pro, and electric mem seats. I'm struggling on pre/post LCI as I've not driven either to know how relevant the changes are. I did drive an LCI briefly but nowhere near properly. In comfort mode it felt very average. If pre-LCI is still just a bit less average I'll be fine. I still have my E85 3.0 Z4 for 'stiff' BMW experiences. This is the car I'm looking at: https://usedcars.bmw.co.uk/vehicle/2...8-ec9a3bddbc18 Alternatively this one looks ok too: https://www.autotrader.co.uk/classif...d=Nearly%20New And a white one same as above one at JCT600 Bradford, but I'd ask for it to be moved to Leeds Bradford branch. BUT it's white. Bottom of my pile for colours. I just want to avoid paying too new/low miles to lose £££ on a non perfect spec car. Happy to lose on value on the right car, basically. If a perfect car came up nearby for say £30-£35 I'd jump on it. So £23 for the first car seems ok, £28 for the newer is ok given its proximity. There are better out there but I just want a car fast as my wife and I are still using a 65 3dr Fiesta ST with our 6 month old baby and it's getting tiring, plus it's impossible to be going hundreds of miles to see cars. I paid £200 to get the first car over to Harrogate on Tuesday. Still waiting... sigh. I sometimes feel like Stratstone don't like selling AUC haha. They make out like an msport plus pack car is 'high spec', and electric seats are some kind of blue moon event!
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11-03-2017, 07:59 AM	#17
JNW1 Major General 3122 Rep 5,681 Posts Drives: F56 Mini Cooper S Join Date: Oct 2012 Location: North Yorkshire iTrader: (0)	I wouldn't look at anything second-hand for much over £30k as post-discount you'd get a new one for similar money. Also, not sure how you're intending to buy (outright purchase or finance) but if the latter again that would push me towards new - for a given deposit the monthly repayment could easily be less than for a second-hand car! If you don't want to wait for a factory order I'm pretty sure BMW dealers can see what new cars are in stock nationally so maybe have a word with Stratstone along those lines if you haven't already? Only other thought is with a little one and the associated gear to cart around wouldn't you be better with a Touring than a saloon?!
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11-03-2017, 11:21 AM	#20
Jeff123 Jeff 318 Rep 1,451 Posts Drives: 330d M Sport x-drive F30 Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Yorkshire iTrader: (0)	What about this: https://www.autotrader.co.uk/classif...vert-type=ymal Its only done 10K miles, is AUC and LCI, and its not a million miles from Harrogate. Still looks pricey, but you will be able to knock them down in price.
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11-03-2017, 01:21 PM	#21
335dMSport+ Captain 452 Rep 839 Posts Drives: F15 X5 40d MSport+ Join Date: Sep 2012 Location: Hertfordshire iTrader: (0)	I've just pm'd you if you're interested in buying a well looked after forum 335d Estoril Blue with red leather within your price range __________________ They see me rollin......
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11-03-2017, 01:51 PM	#22
Mr Whippy Lieutenant 136 Rep 493 Posts Drives: F30 335Xd, E81 130i Join Date: Nov 2017 Location: North UK iTrader: (0)	The deposit for the Hull car went though but no one at Hull took action. So the car is still sat for sale in Hull. Apparently because their sales manager wasn't around to action the email (holiday?) Wednesday at the earliest now so I'm asking for deposit back. Sooo, on to the next car. https://www.autotrader.co.uk/classif...d=Nearly%20New Yes over-priced probably. But one of a tiny handful with memory seats. There is a similar spec white one nearby with the same spec at the same price with a different network so it seems semi-reasonable. JNW1, I'd go for the ELCC type one, and the seller seems a nice chap on the phone, but no VRM given unless you view, and a few online reviews led me to worry I may be wasting my time (ie cars upon checking have unsavoury pasts) I just don't have the time to waste, even though it's been perpetually wasted by dealers so far any way. Jeff123, it looks a fine example, just no mem seats? Memory seats are the bane of my life haha... but ime the 3er seats are so hard to adjust consistently my wife and me would be going mad with swap overs. Needing to get out to lift the seat, or rear seat flapping back when doing the backrest and hitting our baby's feet, hmmmm. You can't even do a '3 clicks back, 4 pumps down' type adjustment, just very poor imo. On prices, I think 5k miles and 1yr old for £28 is ok. We're trading and paying the rest in cash. This car is better for the money: https://www.autotrader.co.uk/classif...d=Nearly%20New But so far away!
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