08-31-2016, 10:45 AM | #23 | ||
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Sorry edit: I was reminded of the subframe bracket: it needs to come out and you should be free.
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08-31-2016, 10:47 AM | #24 | |
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08-31-2016, 07:23 PM | #25 |
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Wow resurrection of my friends original thread. We were actually working on my car at the tine. I ended up taking it to a shop/dealership that specializes in luxury cars. The guy had a N54 335 and had done the downpipe on his at that shop so he said he could do mine. Cost me about $200 but no issues since then.
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09-03-2016, 06:26 AM | #26 | |
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09-03-2016, 12:49 PM | #27 | |
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09-03-2016, 01:12 PM | #28 | ||
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09-03-2016, 02:11 PM | #29 | |
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09-03-2016, 02:21 PM | #30 | ||
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Lower clamp is a screw clamp that needs to be replaced. Screw clamp (with crush gasket) part number: 18307620349
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09-25-2016, 08:34 AM | #33 |
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09-26-2016, 03:27 AM | #35 | |
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what is the problem removing subframe? its on 8 screws and removes easily.
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09-26-2016, 04:53 AM | #36 |
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Some of the guys lowered it a tad by just loosening the screws, but if you remove it you need to support the engine with an extra jack underneath or an engine brace from the top....I got under there the other day and was able to snake my right arm up the passenger wheel well to hit the upper V band which seems to give the most trouble. I actually was able to get at it with a 1/2" ratchet and I believe it was a 13mm socket.
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10-02-2016, 07:09 AM | #37 | |
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10-02-2016, 09:47 AM | #38 |
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Navy435, Did you find a need to remove the bracket that supports the midpipes in order to safely remove the old DP? It looks like they are held in midway down by a rubber grommet style bracket...
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10-02-2016, 12:01 PM | #39 |
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Not at all. I did not touch anything back from the vclamp joining the midpipe and the downpipe. There is a section of flex piping a few inches back from the vclamp, which gives you plenty of give to get the old DP out and the new one in. Hope this helps.
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11-05-2016, 03:09 PM | #40 |
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Okay, I just finished installing that sucker. A few things of note, just in case this thread is used as a reference from now on!
- Getting the V band upper clamp off was done using 13mm on a small a** driver with no extensions by reaching through wheel well. - The lower crush gasket clamp came off easy enough. - One of the most ridiculous findings I didn't expect was the small "clips" the wires of the O2 sensors are held in. I literally had to remove the dang bracket with the sensor wire at one point. - Ext Torx (female) x 2 removed on mid pipe in order to move it to side and allow space for DP to exit (remember this is xdrive). - Now for the fun part, the new parts I ordered were great! Except the new gasket that is supposed to be used on the upper connection to turbo, I placed it and then seated the VRSF DP and the v clamp and simply could not get the V band to close far enough to start the screw. I tampered with this for an hour (wasted) until I realized whether because it was new or something, it was not flush with turbo flange, hence preventing full seating. I replaced the old one and was finally able to tighten her down. - The crush gasket on lower connection was tricky for me because I tried fitting it with the clamp as one part, I would recommend taking it off and clipping it to the DP then place clamp over that, it took me a minute to figure that out. - started her up and listened to the sweet pur, small leak on lower end because clamp was not tight enough. Tightened her up and good to go. - drive home (8 miles) hit about 14 PSI and no codes, so I hopefully will be good. -Thank you guys for all the tips that saved me time otherwise. cheers |
11-05-2016, 03:11 PM | #41 |
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^^4 hours on a lift BTW (first time)
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12-24-2016, 08:34 PM | #42 |
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x-drive DP install
The top vband clamp was a tough nut to crack but once i realized on my second try that no extensions were required it's very easy like others have said. The key is a flex head short stubby rachet. Just get the wheel off and the splash guard off, flip up the heat shield and get your rachet in there.
Show it to your garage technician and call BS if they charge you more than 2 hours. I've installed it 3 separate times going from stock to catless, back to stock and finally catted high flow. I can do it in less than 2 hours on jacks. Cheers Last edited by manguin; 12-24-2016 at 08:38 PM.. Reason: Can't upload pics |
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04-11-2019, 09:05 AM | #43 | ||
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04-11-2019, 12:09 PM | #44 | |
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Lowering the subframe is actually pretty easy with a lift and a jack for under the engine, I've done it like 3 times. I followed that part of the procedure in the Dinan Front Sway Bar instructions.
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