F30POST
F30POST
2012-2015 BMW 3-Series and 4-Series Forum
BMW Garage BMW Meets Register Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read
BMW 3-Series and 4-Series Forum (F30 / F32) | F30POST > Technical Forums > N55 Turbo Engine / Drivetrain / Exhaust Modifications > Anyone have a DIY for DP Install w/xDrive?
GetBMWParts
Post Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
      08-31-2016, 10:45 AM   #23
Jadar
Dejan
Jadar's Avatar
Serbia
1751
Rep
4,197
Posts

Drives: 2018 Audi S3
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Michigan Ave.

iTrader: (6)

Garage List
Quote:
Originally Posted by bdoooh
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike_L
Totally different. The E series N55 has twin outlet pipes. The F30 version only has 1. I don't think anything needs to be dropped for these.
Well we attempted the install a few weeks ago and I can tell ya something needs dropped or removed since it's physically impossible to get to the DP without it. I've done an N55 install without xDrive and that's a breeze but with xDrive it's completely blocked.
I did it once on cryptocar and he's x drive, I didn't need to drop anything other then the aero shield. He held the ratchet up too while I tightened the clamp from the bottom. Basic and direct bolt on IMO. Make sure you get new gaskets you will get a slight leak and sound raspy at startup.

Sorry edit: I was reminded of the subframe bracket: it needs to come out and you should be free.
__________________
FBO-PS1 and stuff
Appreciate 0
      08-31-2016, 10:47 AM   #24
Jadar
Dejan
Jadar's Avatar
Serbia
1751
Rep
4,197
Posts

Drives: 2018 Audi S3
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Michigan Ave.

iTrader: (6)

Garage List
Quote:
Originally Posted by Earthmaster
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike_L View Post
Yeah, thats what they said. They also said they could do my CTS-Vs cutouts in "about an hour", and that took them 4, so they're not always all that accurate.
Hey Mike the Xdrive and the non xdrive down pipe installs on the F30 are in actuality very different. You need to drop an additional subframe part which is why they quoted the 3 hours. OP is not wrong when he was quoted 3 hours this is actually a reasonable timeframe. Expect 200+ for labor on this job. It's kind of a pain if your on lease for a downpipe on the xdrive sigh....
Ah yes I forgot about that subframe L bracket thing. It's prob why he was getting stuck. Been a while since messed with an x drive. Spoiled by rwd basics lol.
__________________
FBO-PS1 and stuff
Appreciate 0
      08-31-2016, 07:23 PM   #25
PushingRedline
Private
16
Rep
97
Posts

Drives: 2017 340xi M-Sport
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Ohio

iTrader: (0)

Wow resurrection of my friends original thread. We were actually working on my car at the tine. I ended up taking it to a shop/dealership that specializes in luxury cars. The guy had a N54 335 and had done the downpipe on his at that shop so he said he could do mine. Cost me about $200 but no issues since then.
Appreciate 0
      09-03-2016, 06:26 AM   #26
Navy435
New Member
Navy435's Avatar
14
Rep
22
Posts

Drives: '14 435xi w/MT
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: New England

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by larrylam646 View Post
I recently installed the HJS catted downpipe on my 435iX with ramps (6" front and rear) and I can confirm you can access the turbo-to-downpipe v-clamp through the wheel well with 3/8" socket, swivel and extension. No need to remove the passenger side motor mount.

It took me about 6 hours for the whole job by myself but now that I know how to do it, I can probably get it done in <3 hrs. Be prepared to scratch-up your forearms. If you have large forearms, recruit a volunteer or remove the motor mount.

It is a real pain without a lift. With a lift, I could probably get it done in < 2hrs.

Larry
Did you need anything special for reinstall? Or, did you reuse gasket and vclamps? Thanks for your help...attempting today...again
Appreciate 0
      09-03-2016, 12:49 PM   #27
963mw
BMW Fanatic
963mw's Avatar
United_States
331
Rep
1,076
Posts

Drives: M2
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Mexico

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dejan_ View Post
I did it once on cryptocar and he's x drive, I didn't need to drop anything other then the aero shield. He held the ratchet up too while I tightened the clamp from the bottom. Basic and direct bolt on IMO. Make sure you get new gaskets you will get a slight leak and sound raspy at startup.

Sorry edit: I was reminded of the subframe bracket: it needs to come out and you should be free.
Ahh man, I most likely don't need new gaskets but will go ahead and buy them to stay safe.
__________________
18 BMW M2 | ER DP | ER CP | Wagner Evo 2 Comp Intercooler | Aquamist HFS4 | BM3 | CSF Oil Cooler | AFE Drop-in Filter | Bilstein B16 PSS10
Appreciate 0
      09-03-2016, 01:12 PM   #28
cryptocar
Captain
cryptocar's Avatar
United_States
496
Rep
902
Posts

Drives: 13' F30 385xi VNV Speed Custom
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Chicago, IL

iTrader: (3)

Garage List
Quote:
Originally Posted by 963mw
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dejan_ View Post
I did it once on cryptocar and he's x drive, I didn't need to drop anything other then the aero shield. He held the ratchet up too while I tightened the clamp from the bottom. Basic and direct bolt on IMO. Make sure you get new gaskets you will get a slight leak and sound raspy at startup.

Sorry edit: I was reminded of the subframe bracket: it needs to come out and you should be free.
Ahh man, I most likely don't need new gaskets but will go ahead and buy them to stay safe.
You always need to replace the lower screw clamp. It has an integrated one time use crush gasket. Once it's tightened the first time on the pipe the gasket is crushed sealing the connection but to remove it you need to basically rip it off destroying the metal gasket. So the whole lower clamp needs to be replaced for Downpipe jobs. Upper v band is reusable unless there excess corrosion or carbon buildup on the bolt or welded nut. The paper/composite upper gasket is cheap and easily replaceable but in my experience it's not even necessary to replace when the car has less than 15k miles or so. Just check the condition. If it's all black and falling apart. Replace it. If not keep it.
__________________
13' 335xi, ACF Tuned, ACF Stage 3 Turbo Kit (67mm),PDU PI, ACF Stage 4 LPFP, M-Perf Brakes, AEM CM10 Meth/Nitro, CG DR-1 + VS-1 3.5" Turboback, AFe S2 CAI+Ram Scoop, ER Chargepipe, Wagner EVOII Comp. FMIC, Stop-Tech SS Brake Lines, BMS Sport Oil Cooler Valve+Spacers F10mm R15mm, 19" Bridgestone Potenzas, KW EDC Coilovers, CF Seibon Hood + CSL trunk. Track:Pagid Race Pads, Stop-Tech Custom Pads Front+Rear Racing Tow Hooks
Appreciate 2
Jadar1750.50
963mw331.00
      09-03-2016, 02:11 PM   #29
Navy435
New Member
Navy435's Avatar
14
Rep
22
Posts

Drives: '14 435xi w/MT
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: New England

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by cryptocar View Post
You always need to replace the lower screw clamp. It has an integrated one time use crush gasket. Once it's tightened the first time on the pipe the gasket is crushed sealing the connection but to remove it you need to basically rip it off destroying the metal gasket. So the whole lower clamp needs to be replaced for Downpipe jobs. Upper v band is reusable unless there excess corrosion or carbon buildup on the bolt or welded nut. The paper/composite upper gasket is cheap and easily replaceable but in my experience it's not even necessary to replace when the car has less than 15k miles or so. Just check the condition. If it's all black and falling apart. Replace it. If not keep it.
Just finished the install and the upper gasket was in good condition (only 9k on my car). I did reuse the lower vclamp though but that is an easy fix. Do you happen to have the part number? Thanks for your help.
Appreciate 0
      09-03-2016, 02:21 PM   #30
cryptocar
Captain
cryptocar's Avatar
United_States
496
Rep
902
Posts

Drives: 13' F30 385xi VNV Speed Custom
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Chicago, IL

iTrader: (3)

Garage List
Quote:
Originally Posted by Navy435
Quote:
Originally Posted by cryptocar View Post
You always need to replace the lower screw clamp. It has an integrated one time use crush gasket. Once it's tightened the first time on the pipe the gasket is crushed sealing the connection but to remove it you need to basically rip it off destroying the metal gasket. So the whole lower clamp needs to be replaced for Downpipe jobs. Upper v band is reusable unless there excess corrosion or carbon buildup on the bolt or welded nut. The paper/composite upper gasket is cheap and easily replaceable but in my experience it's not even necessary to replace when the car has less than 15k miles or so. Just check the condition. If it's all black and falling apart. Replace it. If not keep it.
Just finished the install and the upper gasket was in good condition (only 9k on my car). I did reuse the lower vclamp though but that is an easy fix. Do you happen to have the part number? Thanks for your help.
Just to clarify the upper clamp is a V-band that can be reused several times. If you have a tap and die kit it can last for a very long time.
Lower clamp is a screw clamp that needs to be replaced.
Screw clamp (with crush gasket) part number: 18307620349
__________________
13' 335xi, ACF Tuned, ACF Stage 3 Turbo Kit (67mm),PDU PI, ACF Stage 4 LPFP, M-Perf Brakes, AEM CM10 Meth/Nitro, CG DR-1 + VS-1 3.5" Turboback, AFe S2 CAI+Ram Scoop, ER Chargepipe, Wagner EVOII Comp. FMIC, Stop-Tech SS Brake Lines, BMS Sport Oil Cooler Valve+Spacers F10mm R15mm, 19" Bridgestone Potenzas, KW EDC Coilovers, CF Seibon Hood + CSL trunk. Track:Pagid Race Pads, Stop-Tech Custom Pads Front+Rear Racing Tow Hooks
Appreciate 2
Jadar1750.50
      09-03-2016, 03:27 PM   #31
Navy435
New Member
Navy435's Avatar
14
Rep
22
Posts

Drives: '14 435xi w/MT
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: New England

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by cryptocar View Post
Just to clarify the upper clamp is a V-band that can be reused several times. If you have a tap and die kit it can last for a very long time.
Lower clamp is a screw clamp that needs to be replaced.
Screw clamp (with crush gasket) part number: 18307620349
Yeah, the upper clamp was in good shape. I am installing charge pipes and inter cooler next weekend and will swap out the lower clamp then. Thanks for the great support! Love these forums
Appreciate 1
Jadar1750.50
      09-25-2016, 08:32 AM   #32
Marlinman
First Lieutenant
101
Rep
316
Posts

Drives: 2013 335i xDrive
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: MD

iTrader: (0)

Just to clarify, the 18307620349 clamp INCLUDES the crush gasket?
Appreciate 0
      09-25-2016, 08:34 AM   #33
Navy435
New Member
Navy435's Avatar
14
Rep
22
Posts

Drives: '14 435xi w/MT
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: New England

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Marlinman View Post
Just to clarify, the 18307620349 clamp INCLUDES the crush gasket?
Yes, I received it in the mail and can confirm it is included.
Appreciate 0
      09-25-2016, 01:23 PM   #34
Marlinman
First Lieutenant
101
Rep
316
Posts

Drives: 2013 335i xDrive
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: MD

iTrader: (0)

Thank you Navy435! Hoorah.
Appreciate 0
      09-26-2016, 03:27 AM   #35
enemigo13
Lieutenant
247
Rep
501
Posts

Drives: F32 LCI 440xi citrineblack
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: LT

iTrader: (0)

what is the problem removing subframe? its on 8 screws and removes easily.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Earthmaster View Post
Hey Mike the Xdrive and the non xdrive down pipe installs on the F30 are in actuality very different. You need to drop an additional subframe part which is why they quoted the 3 hours. OP is not wrong when he was quoted 3 hours this is actually a reasonable timeframe. Expect 200+ for labor on this job. It's kind of a pain if your on lease for a downpipe on the xdrive sigh....
Appreciate 0
      09-26-2016, 04:53 AM   #36
Marlinman
First Lieutenant
101
Rep
316
Posts

Drives: 2013 335i xDrive
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: MD

iTrader: (0)

Some of the guys lowered it a tad by just loosening the screws, but if you remove it you need to support the engine with an extra jack underneath or an engine brace from the top....I got under there the other day and was able to snake my right arm up the passenger wheel well to hit the upper V band which seems to give the most trouble. I actually was able to get at it with a 1/2" ratchet and I believe it was a 13mm socket.
Appreciate 0
      10-02-2016, 07:09 AM   #37
Navy435
New Member
Navy435's Avatar
14
Rep
22
Posts

Drives: '14 435xi w/MT
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: New England

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Marlinman View Post
Some of the guys lowered it a tad by just loosening the screws, but if you remove it you need to support the engine with an extra jack underneath or an engine brace from the top....I got under there the other day and was able to snake my right arm up the passenger wheel well to hit the upper V band which seems to give the most trouble. I actually was able to get at it with a 1/2" ratchet and I believe it was a 13mm socket.
I agree with this approach. I was able to do my install without touching the mount, which was easier and creates less worry about cross threading when reinstalling those screws. I used a pivot, 12" extension, and I believe 13mm socket as well, and it took about 5 minutes to remove the top v-clamp. I just installed the new crush gasket and lower v-clamp yesterday and it was nice and snug...no exhaust leaks here.
__________________
2014 BMW 435XI w/ MT - Injen Intake - BMS JB4 - Wagner Tuning HFC DP - Wagner Performance FMIC - ER Chargepipes
Appreciate 0
      10-02-2016, 09:47 AM   #38
Marlinman
First Lieutenant
101
Rep
316
Posts

Drives: 2013 335i xDrive
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: MD

iTrader: (0)

Navy435, Did you find a need to remove the bracket that supports the midpipes in order to safely remove the old DP? It looks like they are held in midway down by a rubber grommet style bracket...
Appreciate 0
      10-02-2016, 12:01 PM   #39
Navy435
New Member
Navy435's Avatar
14
Rep
22
Posts

Drives: '14 435xi w/MT
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: New England

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Marlinman View Post
Navy435, Did you find a need to remove the bracket that supports the midpipes in order to safely remove the old DP? It looks like they are held in midway down by a rubber grommet style bracket...
Not at all. I did not touch anything back from the vclamp joining the midpipe and the downpipe. There is a section of flex piping a few inches back from the vclamp, which gives you plenty of give to get the old DP out and the new one in. Hope this helps.
__________________
2014 BMW 435XI w/ MT - Injen Intake - BMS JB4 - Wagner Tuning HFC DP - Wagner Performance FMIC - ER Chargepipes
Appreciate 0
      11-05-2016, 03:09 PM   #40
Marlinman
First Lieutenant
101
Rep
316
Posts

Drives: 2013 335i xDrive
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: MD

iTrader: (0)

Okay, I just finished installing that sucker. A few things of note, just in case this thread is used as a reference from now on!

- Getting the V band upper clamp off was done using 13mm on a small a** driver with no extensions by reaching through wheel well.
- The lower crush gasket clamp came off easy enough.
- One of the most ridiculous findings I didn't expect was the small "clips" the wires of the O2 sensors are held in. I literally had to remove the dang bracket with the sensor wire at one point.
- Ext Torx (female) x 2 removed on mid pipe in order to move it to side and allow space for DP to exit (remember this is xdrive).
- Now for the fun part, the new parts I ordered were great! Except the new gasket that is supposed to be used on the upper connection to turbo, I placed it and then seated the VRSF DP and the v clamp and simply could not get the V band to close far enough to start the screw. I tampered with this for an hour (wasted) until I realized whether because it was new or something, it was not flush with turbo flange, hence preventing full seating. I replaced the old one and was finally able to tighten her down.
- The crush gasket on lower connection was tricky for me because I tried fitting it with the clamp as one part, I would recommend taking it off and clipping it to the DP then place clamp over that, it took me a minute to figure that out.
- started her up and listened to the sweet pur, small leak on lower end because clamp was not tight enough. Tightened her up and good to go.
- drive home (8 miles) hit about 14 PSI and no codes, so I hopefully will be good.
-Thank you guys for all the tips that saved me time otherwise.

cheers
Appreciate 3
      11-05-2016, 03:11 PM   #41
Marlinman
First Lieutenant
101
Rep
316
Posts

Drives: 2013 335i xDrive
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: MD

iTrader: (0)

^^4 hours on a lift BTW (first time)
Appreciate 1
      12-24-2016, 08:34 PM   #42
manguin
Private
Canada
6
Rep
56
Posts

Drives: 2017 M4
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Vancouver, BC, Canada

iTrader: (0)

x-drive DP install

The top vband clamp was a tough nut to crack but once i realized on my second try that no extensions were required it's very easy like others have said. The key is a flex head short stubby rachet. Just get the wheel off and the splash guard off, flip up the heat shield and get your rachet in there.

Show it to your garage technician and call BS if they charge you more than 2 hours. I've installed it 3 separate times going from stock to catless, back to stock and finally catted high flow. I can do it in less than 2 hours on jacks.

Cheers

Last edited by manguin; 12-24-2016 at 08:38 PM.. Reason: Can't upload pics
Appreciate 0
      04-11-2019, 09:05 AM   #43
bhenault
Private First Class
bhenault's Avatar
30
Rep
128
Posts

Drives: 2014 435 x drive msport
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Eastern Connecticut

iTrader: (0)

Garage List
2006 Bmw 325XI  [0.00]
Quote:
Originally Posted by Navy435 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Marlinman View Post
Just to clarify, the 18307620349 clamp INCLUDES the crush gasket?
Yes, I received it in the mail and can confirm it is included.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Marlinman View Post
Some of the guys lowered it a tad by just loosening the screws, but if you remove it you need to support the engine with an extra jack underneath or an engine brace from the top....I got under there the other day and was able to snake my right arm up the passenger wheel well to hit the upper V band which seems to give the most trouble. I actually was able to get at it with a 1/2" ratchet and I believe it was a 13mm socket.
Hey I know this is an older thread, but were you all able to install without having to touch the subframe? And what is the recommended reasoning for moving the subframe, to get the maneuver the downpipe out easier or for access to the top clamp? Thank you!
Appreciate 0
      04-11-2019, 12:09 PM   #44
zole2112
Modder of everything I own
zole2112's Avatar
147
Rep
491
Posts

Drives: 2013 335i Xdrive
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Appleton, WI

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by bhenault View Post
Hey I know this is an older thread, but were you all able to install without having to touch the subframe? And what is the recommended reasoning for moving the subframe, to get the maneuver the downpipe out easier or for access to the top clamp? Thank you!
I never touched my subframe for the dp install. The hardest thing was getting the crush washer vband lined up. I did it on a lift.
Lowering the subframe is actually pretty easy with a lift and a jack for under the engine, I've done it like 3 times. I followed that part of the procedure in the Dinan Front Sway Bar instructions.
__________________
2013 BMW 335xi F30 N55 PWG/VRSF DP/ER CP/Injen CAI/AA FMIC/JB4 map 7/Fuel= E50 w/ E85:93oct/Stock LPFP & HPFP/CATuned coilovers/Megan Racing Rear Swaybar/Powerflex Rear Subframe Bushing Inserts/Dual aFe Power Mach Force Mufflers/Resonator Delete/MHD & BMS Race BEF
Appreciate 0
Post Reply

Bookmarks

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 03:44 AM.




f30post
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
1Addicts.com, BIMMERPOST.com, E90Post.com, F30Post.com, M3Post.com, ZPost.com, 5Post.com, 6Post.com, 7Post.com, XBimmers.com logo and trademark are properties of BIMMERPOST