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      03-07-2013, 11:54 AM   #67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jamesons Viggen View Post
You have X-drive. Looks like you might not be doing a proper launch. Your gains are good, but your tuned 0-60 should be more like your stock. Are you brake torquing to 3100?
These are just floor it off the line numbers
I cant do a torque launch with accurate numbers because im using a OBDII reader to get these numbers and it counts the actual revs of the axle (i think the abs sensor counts this) and every time even if i lurch a little but from torque braking it will set off the count and give me slower times.

another thing is my stock brakes wont hold my car if i torque brake past 2100rpms i think thats when the turbo starts to spool and my brakes just arent good enough to keep it still
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      03-07-2013, 01:07 PM   #68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1lyfe View Post
These are just floor it off the line numbers
I cant do a torque launch with accurate numbers because im using a OBDII reader to get these numbers and it counts the actual revs of the axle (i think the abs sensor counts this) and every time even if i lurch a little but from torque braking it will set off the count and give me slower times.

another thing is my stock brakes wont hold my car if i torque brake past 2100rpms i think thats when the turbo starts to spool and my brakes just arent good enough to keep it still
Then your numbers are good. The 5.4 you see from magazines or the 4.9 you see from BMS is with a proper drop clutch if manual or overlap launch if automatic. You saw a .5 second reduction which mirrors BMSs claims and confirms another members results with a P3 vent gauge.
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      03-12-2013, 02:24 AM   #69
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Anyone facing below mentioned problem after tuned for F30? :

"cut n paste from tuner"
There usually is an immediate power increment felt after the installation of a piggyback. However, we met many who installed piggyback reported to us their car returned to stock car performance after a certain period of time. The period ranges between 2 - 6 months, and some as short as 2 weeks! This could be possible because the modern ECU are intelligently designed to go against and adapt to the faulty signals it receive from the Piggyback module.

Last edited by mkmm; 03-12-2013 at 03:44 AM..
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      03-12-2013, 03:39 AM   #70
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Well, it happened, I just got a CEL light on after 2 days of use. Is this going away or there is something not right? My care was built january 2013 does this has to do with anything? i was happy to feel the "extra" power but not with a CEl light....

Any help, suggestions?
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      03-12-2013, 05:10 AM   #71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mkmm View Post
Anyone facing below mentioned problem after tuned for F30? :

"cut n paste from tuner"
There usually is an immediate power increment felt after the installation of a piggyback. However, we met many who installed piggyback reported to us their car returned to stock car performance after a certain period of time. The period ranges between 2 - 6 months, and some as short as 2 weeks! This could be possible because the modern ECU are intelligently designed to go against and adapt to the faulty signals it receive from the Piggyback module.
I have experience with 2 of BMS's piggy back units. 1st was the Power Box for my na I6 325i. Installed in Nov 2009, it never missed a day's work, improving the performance of the 325i. Sold the car i Oct 2012 with the Pbx intact and working a charm.

N20 JB1 installed in my F30 328i since Feb 25. When first installed, I felt an improvement but more so over the past few weeks, improving performance over this time.

What about those who have their JB1 installed for months? No complaints from them.

What about the E90 N54 and N55 army? Going strong I read.

So, who is this 'tuner' you made mention of?
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      03-12-2013, 05:16 AM   #72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alexzander23 View Post
Well, it happened, I just got a CEL light on after 2 days of use. Any help, suggestions?
Go back and check your connections. Remove the negative connection from the battery first. Disconnect sensor connections one at a time and reconnect, ensuring correct coloured wires to the appropriate sensors on the engine. Check and confirm orientation.

Even disconnect and reconnect the control box, just to be certain.

Then again, it may not be from the JB1, you never know. If the problem persist, contact Terry at BMS and have LOTS of photos of your install ready for him.

If CEL is still on, remove JB1 and see what happens.
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      03-12-2013, 06:42 AM   #73
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Thank you....I will try this and hopefully it works, Thanks!

Quote:
Originally Posted by David328M-Sport View Post
Go back and check your connections. Remove the negative connection from the battery first. Disconnect sensor connections one at a time and reconnect, ensuring correct coloured wires to the appropriate sensors on the engine. Check and confirm orientation.

Even disconnect and reconnect the control box, just to be certain.

Then again, it may not be from the JB1, you never know. If the problem persist, contact Terry at BMS and have LOTS of photos of your install ready for him.

If CEL is still on, remove JB1 and see what happens.
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      03-12-2013, 10:01 AM   #74
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mkmm
Anyone facing below mentioned problem after tuned for F30? :

"cut n paste from tuner"
There usually is an immediate power increment felt after the installation of a piggyback. However, we met many who installed piggyback reported to us their car returned to stock car performance after a certain period of time. The period ranges between 2 - 6 months, and some as short as 2 weeks! This could be possible because the modern ECU are intelligently designed to go against and adapt to the faulty signals it receive from the Piggyback module.
I have to admit I had the tune for 3 months and it did not feel the same as the first month I had it on. There was definitely a difference. So I took it off for one day drove around and put it back on the next day and got back all the power and torque like the first time I put it on. Maybe this is cause I commute to school and I'm more conscientiousness about saving gas that it adapted to my driving style . But I still love and want that power when I need it, who knows what causes that...?
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      03-12-2013, 02:38 PM   #75
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roup23 View Post
who knows what causes that...?
The 'adaptive' transmission BMW have had for years. So if you do travel to wherever at a slow pace day in day out, you won't feel the piggyback's effect. Take the car for a real spin and i'm sure everything will come good again.
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      03-12-2013, 07:39 PM   #76
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alexzander23 View Post
Well, it happened, I just got a CEL light on after 2 days of use. Is this going away or there is something not right? My care was built january 2013 does this has to do with anything? i was happy to feel the "extra" power but not with a CEl light....

Any help, suggestions?
How did it come on? 100% throttle? Cruising? Certain condition/gear? Do you remember? Curious...

Don't worry too much. I bet it's something simple.

Last edited by BRM6; 03-12-2013 at 08:52 PM..
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      03-13-2013, 03:17 AM   #77
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Installed it then drove for a bit and stopped to get something to eat. When I came back and turned the car on, the CEL was on and to make it worst I was about to go out to the Autobahn to test it......

Quote:
Originally Posted by TJF30 View Post
How did it come on? 100% throttle? Cruising? Certain condition/gear? Do you remember? Curious...

Don't worry too much. I bet it's something simple.
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      03-13-2013, 05:08 AM   #78
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alexzander23 View Post
Installed it then drove for a bit and stopped to get something to eat. When I came back and turned the car on, the CEL was on and to make it worst I was about to go out to the Autobahn to test it......
I just noticed you have an N55 engine, not an N20. Make sure you follow the N55 instructions of course. Still the principle is the same. Best to chat with the 335 guys on the N55 thread above this one about your CEL.
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      03-13-2013, 11:11 AM   #79
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alexzander23 View Post
Installed it then drove for a bit and stopped to get something to eat. When I came back and turned the car on, the CEL was on and to make it worst I was about to go out to the Autobahn to test it......
If it's N55 Stage1 tune make sure you didn't connect sensor #4 (solenoid). That was only for early DME versions. Otherwise you'll want to read the code and see what the issue with the car is. Cars throw CELs on factory tuning all the time. It will throw a CEL if your gas cap is loose for example. You just read the code and decide what to do based on that.

Mike
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      03-13-2013, 04:14 PM   #80
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Thanks....didnt notice I was in the wrong thread...


Quote:
Originally Posted by David328M-Sport View Post
I just noticed you have an N55 engine, not an N20. Make sure you follow the N55 instructions of course. Still the principle is the same. Best to chat with the 335 guys on the N55 thread above this one about your CEL.
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      03-13-2013, 04:15 PM   #81
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Ok, make sense, thanks...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike@N54Tuning.com View Post
If it's N55 Stage1 tune make sure you didn't connect sensor #4 (solenoid). That was only for early DME versions. Otherwise you'll want to read the code and see what the issue with the car is. Cars throw CELs on factory tuning all the time. It will throw a CEL if your gas cap is loose for example. You just read the code and decide what to do based on that.

Mike
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      03-16-2013, 01:39 AM   #82
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David328M-Sport View Post
Ok, so looking at this situation from the beginning.
Of course, if you wired the BMS up wrong, the dash CEL would have lit up.
So this being the case, you got the wiring correct, which as we agree, is not hard.

When in Comfort mode, accelerating the car gently and even moderately, there really isn't any difference in performance compared to stock. If there is, it isn't perceptible. We really haven't engaged the turbo terribly much.

Staying in Comfort, when you give the pedal a little shove further down - doesn't have to be that much - and truly engage the turbo, you should be able to feel a marked difference between S1 & stock. As mentioned, I even found EP mode to go significantly better, even within EP's solid line parameters.

Ok, so go through various runs with different pedal settings in various modes. If you still feel the unit isn't working, disconnect the battery, remove the unit, reconnect the cables to stock and compare runs.

Then re-connect and try again.

Thinking about this, a very and I mean a very long shot may be that the control box didn't connect with the ecu and may need to be re-engaged. Maybe. Although I would suspect CEL warning, but one never knows.

So that may very well be your best way to check your S1 unit is truly working. If not, take matters up with your supplier.

Lastly, no matter how a post reads, we are all here to help.
Cheers
All very good and logical points and explanation.

I know some won't agree with me and that's ok, but I don't use Eco "Pro" at all as it just sucks as it makes driving my BMW feel anemic.
Light steering effort, ultra soft throttle, and way to quick to shift up trans operation. It's not a 'sport' sedan in that mode.
For those reasons I don't even use 'comfort' mode.
It's become reflex now to start the engine and engage 'sport' before shifting into gear.

It seems odd to me that anyone interested in getting a tune for more performance would want to be in anything except 'sport' mode.
If MPG is a concern, then simply dip into the throttle less.
The best method to control MPG is to know how to use your throttle.
Being in sport mode and/or having a quicker more responsive throttle doesn't mean your MPG should or will go down, you control the throttle.
To me comfort and Eco Pro are nanny's for those who can't control their throttle properly.

I have the DH package which gives me a couple more chassis and drive train settings. But, even with the added settings I still can't set MY car to have driving attributes that I want.
I want the sharpest throttle response with the firmest steering effort with "comfort" AT operation. I can't get that because BMW can't be bothered to provide proper programming to allow the driver to set things the way he wants them.
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      03-16-2013, 02:40 AM   #83
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RPM90 View Post
All very good and logical points and explanation.
Thank you. Very nice from someone who, in my opinion, is one of the most level headed posters on this site.

Quote:
Originally Posted by RPM90 View Post
I don't use Eco "Pro" at all as it just sucks as it makes driving my BMW feel anaemic.

It seems odd to me that anyone interested in getting a tune for more performance would want to be in anything except 'sport' mode.
Although I do not use EP mode, I can tell you that JB1 give it a really helpful boost. No, I do not use it either. I tried for a short time after I bought the car, as part of the novelty, however, Comfort mode has been transformed quite well with JB1.

I live in a big city with lots of traffic everywhere, pretty much every day, so driving the car in Sport mode every time is very un-necessary. When I can, I do of course and the JB1 makes it very, very sharp, responsive & fast.

We also have a very active police force here and the government has pretty much mandated a virtually zero tolerance for even driving a couple of km/h over the speed limit. To keep track of speed limits across our vast city, there are hundreds of fixed and mobile speed cameras (privately operated) plus police with radars, so 'spirited' driving is a big risk here. Lots of revenue raising with heavy fines & driver license demerit points.

So although I like to take off quickly from the lights, I want to keep my license and spend my money when & where I wish, so Comfort with the tune is just a very well balanced setup, which works well for most of my driving.

So it's not a matter of tuning the car (or not) and using Sport all the time. It's also not a mpg issue for me either. I need to and have to adapt to our conditions.

Please do not mis-understand me. Sport Mode is GREAT and I use it when I can.
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      03-16-2013, 09:20 AM   #84
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Here's my dyno on dynojet
Ron 97 (i.e. 93 octane)
8 Speed Automatic
BMS Stage 1
M-Performance exhaust (not sure this made any difference)

Run 002 gave the most "balance" results, 241HP & 365NM..

What do you guys think?
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      03-18-2013, 12:01 AM   #85
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Is there anyone who has S1 on 4psi ?
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      03-18-2013, 10:08 AM   #86
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XRS View Post
Here's my dyno on dynojet
Ron 97 (i.e. 93 octane)
8 Speed Automatic
BMS Stage 1
M-Performance exhaust (not sure this made any difference)

Run 002 gave the most "balance" results, 241HP & 365NM..

What do you guys think?
Since you were running 93 octane, did you adjust the boost to 4psi?

Quote:
Originally Posted by swe328i View Post
Is there anyone who has S1 on 4psi ?
I am going to have my summer tires put on Friday or Saturday, I am going to bump the boost to 4psi at that time.
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      03-18-2013, 11:23 AM   #87
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jamesons Viggen View Post
Since you were running 93 octane, did you adjust the boost to 4psi?



I am going to have my summer tires put on Friday or Saturday, I am going to bump the boost to 4psi at that time.

Okey, please report if you feel any difference .
Have you done a dyno on your car or are you going to do it?

I live in Sweden and I just want too see some dyno and results
From bms users before I buy it.
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      03-18-2013, 11:49 AM   #88
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Quote:
Originally Posted by swe328i View Post
Okey, please report if you feel any difference .
Have you done a dyno on your car or are you going to do it?

I live in Sweden and I just want too see some dyno and results
From bms users before I buy it.
I did a stock dyno and one with catback. I hope to dyno soon with catback and stage 1 at 3 and 4psi.
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